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Guatemala, Part 2: Tikal
http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...14_zARsb-L.jpg Finished with the mountainous section of Guatemala and now riding the hot tropical plains with high humidity heading north to Tikal. http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...20_Hr6dX-L.jpg A super long straight section, about 60 kms, running up the west side of the country. http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...57_Vds32-L.jpg The ferry at Sayaxche across Rio de la Passion. http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...31_3tQJC-L.jpg Sharing the ride with a semi-truck (note the long line of trucks waiting to cross). Cost Q5. http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...07_dAEG7-L.jpg The ferry was powered by this little outboard motor on a dingy. It worked and got us across. http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...43_2SchK-L.jpg Slash and burning the jungle away. http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...73_Xy8D5-L.jpg The roads were well marked with directions. Guatemala is referring to Guatemala City. http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...36_FNo4S-L.jpg Setting sun across the picturesque Lago de Peten Itza. http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...97_SCBTq-L.jpg Entering Tikal and taking note of the dual pricing structure where foreigners have to pay Q150 ($19) and local nationals pay Q25. A lot of other countries do it as well and I guess they're milking the rich and giving the locals an affordable chance to take in some of their heritage. http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...89_C8Af7-L.jpg Riding the 17 kms of park road heading to the visitors center. http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...55_N7m8j-L.jpg Not your usual animal warning sign. http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...13_Q5CJ6-L.jpg Meow. Jaguars ahead. http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...99_mgr63-L.jpg I camped in front of the Jaguar Inn, which is in the main visitors area as I wanted to enter the site early in the morning when it's cooler and less crowded. http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...02_9yrRn-L.jpg Camping for Q25 at the Jaguar Inn. It was safe to leave all my things here when I walked around the ruins. http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...92_5yBom-L.jpg Not realizing that Guatemala and the rest of Central America don't follow daylight savings like Mexico, my clock was one hour ahead and I got to the site entrance at 5 am instead of 6 am when the site opens. I bribed the watchmen to let me in instead of wasting an hour. http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...87_eGPCm-L.jpg Hiking through the jungle to get to the ruins at Tikal at 5:15 in the morning. I was the only person in the site for at least 2 hours. http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...76_bcbtH-L.jpg Temple I covered in the morning jungle mist. Tikal was the capital of one of the largest Mayan kingdoms and prospered mainly from 200-900 AD. Some buildings on the site date as far back as 700 BC. http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...37_tF4Vh-L.jpg Temple V, where I waited out the fog. Tikal was abandoned by the end of the 10th century and was rediscovered in the 19th century. After abandonment, the site was quickly recaptured by the jungle with thick vegetation covering most of the temples. The tops of a few of them were visible above the canopy. http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...26_hcaKr-L.jpg Stairway to heaven? Steep steps to get to the top of Temple V. http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...89_bRWLY-L.jpg Soaking it in on the top of Temple V at 58 meters high. The downside of coming so early was all the fog and limited visibility but I enjoyed the solitude among the ruins. http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...65_ZnunP-L.jpg Looking out across from the top of Temple V. http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...74_MfERE-L.jpg The fog slowly starting to clear with the rising sun. The structure of the residential area coming into view on the right. http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...32_fJvc2-L.jpg Ceiba trees to the left. http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...63_HStAx-L.jpg Looking across the top of Temple V. http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...54_bbzHH-L.jpg Temple I and the Gran Plaza coming into view as the fog slowly clears. http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...53_vpNt3-L.jpg The main steps of the temple were eroded and not safe to climb. http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...31_jFkdM-L.jpg The steep front side of the temple. http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...96_prwBA-L.jpg As clear as it was going to get. Temple I (right) and II (left) in full view from the top of Temple V. It was magical to see the ruins slowly appear through the fog above the canopy of the jungle. http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...61_RuHSM-L.jpg Detail of the ruined wall. http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...46_372Pj-L.jpg View across the jungle canopy. |
http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...28_nyS8n-L.jpg Taking it all in once the fog cleared. http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...61_VPiCR-L.jpg Looking down the steep steps. It was safer to go down backwards using it as a ladder. http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...60_Lfhgh-L.jpg Temple V in all its glory. This was the most impressive looking temple as it was the most cleared of vegetation and the looked the grandest. Restoration began only in 1991. http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...14_yS2BB-L.jpg The yet to be fully restored pyramid in the Lost World section of Tikal. There are four other older pyramids under this outer face as the Maya had a tendency to build new structures on top of old ones. The oldest pyramid dates back to 700 BC making it the oldest structure at Tikal. http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...12_qEvc7-L.jpg A leaf-cutter ant hauling his prized leaf across the walkway in the site that many Mayans toiled over the centuries hauling rocks to build this magnificent city. http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...02_XrcvX-L.jpg A stela detailing stories about the kings at Tikal. http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...20_PEXM3-L.jpg Detail of the stela. http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...44_Kv8gD-L.jpg Another round stela, looking similar to the Mayan calendar... http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...16_xvAFT-L.jpg The tops of Temple III, II and I from Temple IV. http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...27_niMTf-L.jpg Tourists soaking in the view from the top of Temple IV, which was still being excavated. Only the roofcomb was clear. http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...32_n5akU-L.jpg Temple III covered in heavy vegetation, yet to be excavated. You can see the roofcomb behind the tree trunk in the middle. http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...37_oDk33-L.jpg Temple I and the Gran Plaza from the top of Temple II. http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...80_skqPo-L.jpg The profile of Temple II. http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...49_NMCkR-L.jpg Beautiful birds on the park grounds. http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...20_xfTvX-L.jpg Info on the Ceiba tree. http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...96_fQyHS-L.jpg The unique looking Ceiba tree, which is the national tree of Guatemala and is worshiped by the Mayans. http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...91_H7Aib-L.jpg The trunks can get pretty large and the trees sport wide buttresses to support their heft. http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...87_dnKFe-L.jpg Heading back south, passing the beautiful Lago de Peten Itza. http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...54_xii3A-L.jpg Tasty lunch of chicken in a gravy with rice and potatoes for Q10. http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...47_p3x84-L.jpg Heading south towards Rio Dulce on the eastern side of Guatemala. http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...19_AFGLc-L.jpg Staying at Hacienda Tijax on the river. http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...60_xC9kw-L.jpg There were a lot of waterways around and they used lots of suspension boardwalks to get above the water and reduce human impact on the protected area, where lots of bird-watching was happening. http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...16_jwxWv-L.jpg Staying in a thatched jungle room for Q60. http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...69_ojc3f-L.jpg Rio Dulce is popular among yachties as it's the safest place to spend the hurricane season in the western Caribbean. http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...50_Fhx6t-L.jpg Last meal in Guatemala of a thick tortilla with beef, green onions, sauce and some mayo sauce. It was quite tasty for Q15. At this comedor (road-side shack), just as I was finishing up my meal, a group of guys walked in all brandishing pistols in their belts. They seemed friendly and struck up a conversation about the bike and my trip. One of them spoke good English, probably the boss. They pulled in on 3 Toyota pickup trucks and had guards from their pose surrounding the whole comedor as lookouts. I figured they must either be some gang or political group or just rich, powerful people. The funniest thing was when I told them I rode through Mexico, they asked, "Isn't Mexico dangerous?" and they were all carrying guns, haha. I guess everyone is scared of what lies beyond their boundaries. http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...84_7P4fB-L.jpg Taking the busy highway towards the Honduran border. This highway connects Guatemala City with the port on the Caribbean and was crowded with semi-truck traffic. Onwards to Honduras. |
Honduras
South of Guatemala are the countries El Salvador and Honduras. Due to time constraints, I decided to skip El Salvador to avoid the El Amatillo border crossing between the southern end of El Salvador and Honduras. It's notorious for its corruption and the officials making you run around in circles for hours, and likely paying hefty fines for something or the other. This usually leaves a sour feeling about Honduras and wanting to give it a proper chance to make an impression, I chose to go through the mountains of Honduras and visited a few colonial cities. http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...28_T8hCX-L.jpg My route map from Guatemala thru Honduras into Nicaragua. Click on it to go to the interactive version in Google Maps. http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...63_5Z7QA-L.jpg Getting to the El Florido border crossing between Guatemala and Honduras. http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...54_iGjvy-L.jpg Border towns are not places to hang out, but during the daytime, it's all good. http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...35_9BaDN-L.jpg Welcome to Honduras. http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...35_dTvdG-L.jpg Checking in the bike at Honduran customs. Cost $35. http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...56_aSRyw-L.jpg The El Florido crossing is close to the Mayan ruins of Copan, but I didn't have time to stop and visit. I was heading further inland to the hill country town of Gracias. http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...54_CUppD-L.jpg Honduras' currency - The Lempira, $1 = L18.50. http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...00_5XXAT-L.jpg Sunset riding as I got into the former capital of Gracias in the mountains. http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...73_aQ24G-L.jpg Manuel Zelaya, the now-ousted president, who caused a ruckus and put Honduras in the international spotlight last year for wanting to amend the constitution and possibly end presidential term limits, a la Hugo Chavez. http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...67_nAYy5-L.jpg Walking around the old colonial town of Gracias, I followed the old adage in seeking food that if there's a line of locals eating somewhere, it must be good. This guy was making simple chicken barbeque on skewers served with tortillas and a salad for L25 (~$1.50). http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...93_GYB5k-L.jpg The streets of Gracias at night. This city was founded in 1526 and was for a brief time, the capital of all Spanish-conquered Central America in the 16th century. Some of these buildings are centuries old. http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...21_Y749w-L.jpg Telephone wire exchange. http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...48_Z55yQ-L.jpg Tienda means a small convenience store. http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...95_kHNSJ-L.jpg Riding out the next morning further south through the mountains. http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...83_VfiVB-L.jpg Breakfast of fried chicken with scrambled eggs, refried beans, avocado and fresh cheese, served with tortillas for L40. This was more than I could handle in one sitting, so I packed the rest in my tupperware box and had it for lunch later on. http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...55_mMPVw-L.jpg Heading towards La Esperanza. http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...58_eNLv8-L.jpg The road turned gravel for about 20 kms. http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...66_jDHaY-L.jpg There was very little traffic, this far away from the major towns, which made for an enjoyable ride. http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...34_FWb7t-L.jpg Past La Esperanza, heading up to the main highway. http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...95_jYk7L-L.jpg The main highway, Carretera del Norte, connecting the two big cities in Honduras, the capital Tegucigalpa and the industrial city of San Pedra Sula on the coast. http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...68_xjyRe-L.jpg Enjoying a night out in the colonial town of Comayagua with my CouchSurfing host Rony and some of his Peace Corps friends from the States, Lucy and Heide. These girls were stationed in remote villages working on protecting natural environments and they were in town to celebrate Heide's birthday. http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...59_XTvtE-L.jpg At Rony's house in Comayagua. His family runs a gym and he's currently working at the golf course in town, hoping to head to France soon to volunteer at an orphanage for a few months and travel around Europe. http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...17_8j5e4-L.jpg The cathedral in the center of Comayagua, which was the original capital of Honduras, established in 1537. It's undergoing a renewal with help from Spain to preserve its heritage. http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...09_ZgQZn-L.jpg All throughout Central America, a lot of the public buses are old American school buses. To me, it seemed like once they weren't good enough for the US, probably not passing emissions, 'send them across the border, they need buses down there and no one cares about emissions' - except us poor bikers inhaling all that black carbon monoxide. http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...45_wdxkW-L.jpg Down here, when you see a sign warning of falling rocks, you better take it seriously. http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...58_KwMkf-L.jpg Washed-out road. A good reason not to be riding at night. http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...40_e7rNN-L.jpg South of Tegucigalpa heading to the Nicaraguan border at Los Manos. http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...54_TWkFf-L.jpg You know you're getting close to the border when you see a line of parked trucks. The paperwork must be a major headache for them. |
Nicaragua
After two days in Honduras, I crossed into Nicaragua and couldn't escape their well-known police traps, but still managed to leave with a positive feeling about the country after visiting Granada. These countries have been torn by war and political strife in recent times, but things are calm these days and the friendly locals make for a safe passage. http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...45_H8wP2-L.jpg Welcome to Nicaragua. http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...27_M7jAY-L.jpg After paying a $3 road tax, this guy wanted to pose for a picture. Nice friendly first impression of the Nica police, but not for long. They snagged me a few miles down for passing on a solid line, which another $3 bribe sufficed. http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...72_5cPHy-L.jpg Nicaragua's currency - The Cordoba. $1 = C21. http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...87_HvfrV-L.jpg Nice roads, but generally more flat. Heading to the capital city of Managua. http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...17_qqX7S-L.jpg Staying at ADVer Salcar's house in Managua. He was actually in Switzerland but told me I could still stay at his place. http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...62_7mXGt-L.jpg Riding through some dense fog on my way to Granada. I went up and over some mountains, through the misty town of Jinotega, to avoid a known police shake-down spot on the main road from Managua to Granada at Masaya. This is known as one of the most scenic drives in the country as it climbs to 4,000 ft and comes back down to near sea level in Granada. http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...52_sCZJ9-L.jpg Dinner at my CouchSurfing's host Avi's place in Granada. He's also in the Peace Corps, working on teaching entrepreneurial skills to high school kids. His neighbor prepared this meal for us as they ran out of cooking gas and Avi let them cook at his place. It's a typical meal of rice fried with beans, some salad of cucumbers and fresh cheese. http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...49_aVtRm-L.jpg After dinner, we did what most Nicaraguan's do at night, hang out on their porch, since it's hot inside and usually there's a cool breeze outside. Avi's been here over two years and he's winding down his project. http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...66_V3Wgu-L.jpg Checking out the main plaza in Granada, the oldest city in Nicaragua, founded in 1524. Being on Lake Nicaragua with access to the Caribbean, it was an important trading post and was wealthy leading it to be ransacked multiple times by British and French pirates from the Caribbean. Recently, it kick-started Nicaragua's tourism with its rich colonial heritage. http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...40_dAnHU-L.jpg The cathedral in the Parque Central. http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...72_VcWhQ-L.jpg Statue in the central park with the inscription in English "devotion and love to all mothers". http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...54_5pEsM-L.jpg Having breakfast of 'yuca con cerdo' - cassava or manioc with grilled pork. I like the taste of cassava; it's slightly sweet and the texture is interesting too. It's a staple food in many developing parts of the world, especially Africa as it's a hardy plant and is considered the third largest source of carbohydrates in human diets. http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...64_bmfmU-L.jpg The yuca and pork at the food seller's stand. http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...69_XqMHa-L.jpg Heading south out of Granada, towards the Costa Rican border. http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...29_b59ac-L.jpg Windmills on the shore of the huge Lago de Nicaragua. |
Costa Rica
Costa Rica, the rich coast as Columbus thought it contained a lot of gold when he landed here, has actually been made rich by bananas and its well developed ecotourism industry. It's also the most developed country in Central America and along with that comes higher prices for everything, similar to costs in the US. For this reason, most budget travelers buzz through Costa Rica, but I had to spend a few days in the capital of San Jose in order to get visas for the first few South America countries. Being the most developed country meant that it also had a good diplomatic representation from a lot of countries. http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...25_hUkSH-L.jpg I know a couple trucks are expected at border crossings but the border between Nicaragua and Costa Rica, there's only one crossing, had a line of trucks at least 6 kms (3.5 miles) in length. This was an indication of how complex this border crossing must be. http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...02_RCSnC-L.jpg Using a helper at the border, to help me navigate all the various booths I had to go to and get stamps from. http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...79_YuLFG-L.jpg At the Nicaraguan customs office. I've been able to navigate all the previous border crossings with no problem, but that was also because I went across smaller, less trafficked borders where the various buildings were close together. Here, with only one border between these countries, it was a massive operation with tonnes of people getting on and off buses, truckers trying to get their papers approved and individual travelers. The procedure was not well-signed for the unaided traveler. You get a small slip of paper as you enter the border compound and you have to get it stamped at various booths to show you've done all that is necessary and then you have to give this paper to an officer in order to exit the border compound. http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...58_MGppy-L.jpg At the Costa Rican customs office, which was a similar hassle to the Nicaraguan side. One thing I've noticed in these few border crossings so far is that the bureaucratic culture seems more similar across a particular border on both sides as opposed to being similar among a country's various border posts. As in, the bureaucracy seemed similar between Honduras and Nicaragua and between Nicaragua and Costa Rica. They're probably just trying to match the other guy's bureaucratic loopholes. http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...44_p6KcV-L.jpg My route map through Costa Rica. Click on it to go to the interactive version in Google Maps. http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...37_v7PhU-L.jpg The skies opened up as the rainy season had officially started as I made my way to Playa del Coco, a beach town about an hour south of the border to stay with ADVer Chris. http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...22_M4fEv-L.jpg The view from Chris' apartment, looking across the bay. http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...12_v8deD-L.jpg The well-furnished compound. http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...04_H38Vf-L.jpg Chris' Land Rover Defender at his girlfriend Anna and her dad's motorcycle and car repair shop. I got a good deal on a new chain that was a left over from a Honda Africa Twin repair job. http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...16_iMjtV-L.jpg Chris and his KTM 990s being greeted by Anna'a various pit bulls. They were all super friendly. Chris used to race professionally in the AMA Motocross Championship and traveled around the US and South Africa with the KTM factory team along with Red Bull sponsorship. He's currently taking it easy in Costa Rica and discovering all the good off-road riding that's to be had. http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...17_uhaK6-L.jpg Leading me out of town on my way to San Jose. http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...71_6FCzd-L.jpg It was nice and sunny in the morning and then the rains kicked in after lunch. http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...58_iVAAu-L.jpg A typical set meal called a consado of rice, beans and chicken with some veggies for 2200 Colones ($1 = CL500). http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...57_H5uAN-L.jpg As I was riding the steep, hilly road in heavy rains getting into San Jose, I came around a corner and found a tree had freshly taken down a telephone wire pole. We were the first few people on site. http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...05_6QGJh-L.jpg One of the drivers lifted up the wires enough for me to get under. These were the first few rains of the season and anything that was loosely held together is going to get washed away. The new rains also made the roads slick as it was washing away all the oils from the road surface. A few corners further down, I had to down-shift to first gear to really slow down for this sharp hair-pin turn and with the roads so slick, the rear tire broke loose and the bike went down. We slid for a few feet before stopping and no injury to me as I immediately stood up and picked up the bike with the help of a passing rider. Only damage on the bike was a broken highway peg. No pictures as it was too steep to park the bike and traffic was coming. http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...81_2LQWq-L.jpg I made it safely to La Moto, a motorcycle accessory shop in San Jose, where ADV rider Mischa works. http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...72_VaLeq-L.jpg Mischa's adjusting my rear spring, raising it up a bit to reduce how much the bike sags with all the weight on the rear. The shop is run by John, who's an ex-AMA superbike racer. http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...58_iJted-L.jpg Their Nicaraguan mechanic, Elvis, fabricating a new highway peg. The original one worked well to protect the rest of the bike from damage like the shift lever and engine casing. It worked as a frame slider. http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...60_TFYA6-L.jpg Outside Mischa's house in San Jose. His family moved from Germany about 20 years ago due to his father's health requiring warmer climes. Mishca used to work in the tourism industry before switching into the motorcycle accessory business. He's riding KTMs. I was in San Jose mainly to procure visas from the South American embassies and addresses in San Jose are unique because they don't use street names but rather give distances from landmarks. Mischa showed me where all the embassies were on Google Earth and using GPS coordinates, I had no problem navigating my way around the city. Thanks Mischa! http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...62_GuKbH-L.jpg Riding up to Volcan Irazu, about an hour southeast of San Jose. In the morning, the tilled fertile farm land on the flanks of the volcano were exhaling moisture as the sun warmed it up. It looked like the volcano was breathing through its sides. http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...71_jX43s-L.jpg The main crater of Volcan Irazu at a height of 3,300 m (11,000 ft). The crater itself was 300 m (1,000 ft) deep and 1 km (3,300 ft) in diameter. http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...78_i9gyq-L.jpg Another view of the crater as the clouds quickly rolled in. To get good views, you have to come up here early in the morning as by 9:30 am, the clouds were rolling in. http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...98_9mc2H-L.jpg A group of local bikers from San Jose gathering around my bike and asking questions about the trip. http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...62_4c5TK-L.jpg Riding above the clouds. The road up and down the volcano was a blast to ride with nice turns and good long distance views. http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...13_s8zEj-L.jpg Heading back down to the valley, dropping 1,500 m (5,000 ft) in about 35 kms (22 miles). |
http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...21_KWzuM-L.jpg Farmers using the roadway to move their cattle between grazing areas. They looked highly suspicious of me. http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...85_r7Y2Y-L.jpg Viewpoint of lush valleys heading towards Turrialba. http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...78_MsiXi-L.jpg Nice riding the whole day. http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...50_p8tKH-L.jpg Foggy and twisty roads leading from the volcano down into the jungle. http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...50_6pwuL-L.jpg The only country admitting bad roads ahead. Translation "road in bad shape". http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...04_jtqwh-L.jpg Down on the flat eastern plains heading to the Caribbean coast. This is still a banana republic, but tourism is the big earner for the country these days. The blue bags are to protect the bananas from insects. http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...77_Vazcx-L.jpg Bananas - coming soon to a grocery store near you. http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...29_678tb-L.jpg I caught up with this Harley-Davidson motorcycle group, the Steel Angels. They were out on a nice Saturday ride. Nice to see them using proper hand signals and displaying good group riding skills. When one rider stopped, the back marker stopped with him and the middle marker filtered to the back. I rode with them for a while, but they were cruising too slow even for me on the DR around 70 kmh (43 mph) and I wanted to be doing at least 85 kmh (53 mph), so I found a nice long straight and passed the whole group. There were about 30 riders. http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...07_uy88u-L.jpg Spending a day in the Caribbean beach town of Puerto Viejo. http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...25_xhK5i-L.jpg The next morning, I woke up to very loud thunder and heavy rainfall. But it was all done in a few hours and the sun and blue sky came out again. http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...01_WEYnj-L.jpg Walking into town to buy some groceries. http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...78_jiatE-L.jpg Sunsets on a beach with coconut trees can never grow old. http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...87_fE2Q2-L.jpg The place where I stayed, Crocodile Surf Camp. Every business in town is milking everything they can out of the rasta movement. http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...33_Uaetr-L.jpg The cabins at Crocodile Surf Camp. http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...93_4jTRo-L.jpg I had the room on the end for $10 a night. I thought about camping initially for $6, but with the heavy rains, was glad I got a room with a fan and WiFi. http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...73_pjVCL-L.jpg Heading to the Panamanian border at Sixaola. |
Panama, Part 1: Boquete and Chitre
Panama, the last country in Central America before the big South. Known globally for the successful Panama Canal, it's also well-known among travelers as the Pan-American highway ends in the jungle province of Darien and there is no road connecting to the South American continent. This presents most travelers with the issue of flying across the Darien Gap or sailing around it. I made some arrangements a few months back with Ludwig, the captain of the Stahlratte, a 40 meter ship plying the waters between the San Blas islands of Panama to Cartagena, Colombia. My rush through Central America was to make sure I would make it on time for the boat. I got to Panama with enough time to spend a few days in some of the smaller cities and managed to head down to Yaviza, the last town on the Pan-American highway in the Darien. http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...16_Htqfm-L.jpg There are two regular crossings on the southern side of the border between Costa Rica and Panama, but the one on the northern side here, at Sixaola/Guabito is the more interesting one as the border crossing is an old railroad track bridge. http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...59_dJfKu-L.jpg It's one way of course and I went early in the morning to make sure I could take my time in getting across and not be rushed by traffic. http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...13_Ta4uF-L.jpg Slowly working my way across the bridge. The officers on the Costa Rican side said to take the left lane as the planks were better. This was better as well as I could slide my left leg along the raised pipe and keep the right foot on the rear brake. http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...77_rVR39-L.jpg At one section there is no railing to protect you if you fall over, so don't look down and just keep going. http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...36_cfKjp-L.jpg Yup, semi-trucks cross here as well. This border crossing was quite relaxed but Panamanian immigration said I had to pay $30 for a tourist visa, after being told by the embassy in San Jose that I would need no visa. But it was no hassle, they just processed it there. $15 insurance for the bike was required. http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...40_TEejt-L.jpg My route map through Panama. Click on it to go to the interactive version in Google Maps. http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...89_45vuX-L.jpg Local transportation in Gaubito, Panama. http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...30_W7fTV-L.jpg Nice twisty roads heading south towards Chiriqui Grande. http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...77_kSmyt-L.jpg Lunch of rice and beans with chicken in a sauce and potato salad for $2. Panama uses the US dollar as its currency. http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...20_LCjfJ-L.jpg Heading up from the Caribbean coast over the Continental Divide to the Pacific coast. http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...82_iejEQ-L.jpg At the divide with the Pacific Ocean in view far away down there. Elevation was around 1,200 m (4,000 ft). http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...35_4FZcb-L.jpg You think I'm loaded down? :p http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...90_YZ2gS-L.jpg A localized moving column of rain. I got rained on a bit here and there but managed to avoid the real heavy stuff. The intensity of the storms are just amazing. I reached Boquete by around 4 pm starting in Puerto Viejo, Costa Rica. http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...11_tdZGq-L.jpg At CouchSurfer Ellen Ring's house in Potrerillos, near Boquete. Ellen moved down from Texas a few years ago and after working in finance in Panama City, she's moved out to the milder mountain life and is now promoting tourism in Panama with her site CheapPanamaVacation.com. Tourism in Panama is not as developed as Costa Rica or Mexico, but has a lot of potential. http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...35_y973k-L.jpg I work up in the morning to a flat rear tire, the first one of the trip. I have a heavy duty rear tube, so it helps in supporting the form of the tire and not fully collapsing. http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...02_ow5AS-L.jpg Wrestled to break the bead but finally got there with tube pulled out. http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...83_UV9sx-L.jpg Something sharp poked through here... http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...19_E5YH6-L.jpg ...causing this corresponding hole. I thought the heavy duty rubber tube would withstand more abuse, but I guess if it's sharp enough, what can you do besides patch it and ride on. http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...72_QRyBp-L.jpg Scrubbing the area around the puncture to prepare it for the patch. http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...21_nPJfc-L.jpg New patch applied and good to go. http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...55_P5U8B-L.jpg Having a tasty lunch, after slogging away all morning on the tire, of rice with chicken in a garlicy sauce with bean soup and desserted plantains for $2. http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...19_PkzEY-L.jpg While Ellen and I were having a few drinks and waiting out the afternoon rainstorm, this pickup pulled up selling fish out the back. http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...70_uPsj3-L.jpg We bought a 3 lb Amber Jack for $4.50. http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...10_uKdiP-L.jpg Having the fish cleaned and filleted. http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...60_QtwhX-L.jpg And cooking it up for Ellen in a thin batter of egg with flour, chili powder and garlic, along with lentils and rice. http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...75_UswD5-L.jpg The next morning, going past Boquete, looking for a waterfalls but not coming across it. However, the road was fun and it climbed up to about 1,800 m (6,000 ft). http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...22_i9BVR-L.jpg Having a typical Panamanian breakfast in Boquete of beef or chicken in a sauce with a flour-based deep fried tortilla, resembling an Indian poori. The sauce and the tortilla were really tasty. Cost $1.50. http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...00_pqTvS-L.jpg The valley with Boquete down on the left side and the Continental Divide rising behind it. |
http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...35_85v65-L.jpg Back on the Pan-Am heading south, I saw a DR in my mirrors and pulled over to talk with Dan here. He's from California and is taking a few months off to buzz down to Tierra del Fuego. Small world, as he emailed me a year or two ago asking about my Happy Trails panniers before he purchased a set. http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...24_rNZTk-L.jpg sanDRina was happy to mingle with some family. And without knowing it we pulled over in front of Policia Nacional, inviting a document check by the officer. All was in order and we got going. http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...12_cd9JW-L.jpg Dan was shooting for Panama City that night and I wasn't going as far, so he sped ahead. http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...30_djDSW-L.jpg In the small town of Chitré, on the Gulf of Panama, staying with CouchSurfer Arilys and her family. This is with her dad in front of a bakery. Crazy wall painting. http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...68_oNmC3-L.jpg With CouchSurfer Arilys in her home. She's a psychology professor at the local university and is a huge rock fan, recently going to Metallica and Guns N' Roses concerts. They didn't speak much English, so it was Spanish immersion time again. I can manage to convey my ideas across and can hold decent conversations. I'm slowly picking up more vocabulary with time. http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...10_X5zBf-L.jpg Having a simple and tasty dinner of sauteed shrimp with rice and tomatoes with fresh pineapple juice. Arilys doesn't eat much meat and really enjoys rice with tomatoes. She prepares the white rice quite nicely with oil and other spices and the fresh tomatoes go really well with it. http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...92_xP3Lv-L.jpg Doing laundry the next day. Eww, that's a murky brown. Lots of sweat. http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...43_peESE-L.jpg Feels good to wash everything. I tried washing in Costa Rica but the air was so humid on the Caribbean coast that the clothes didn't dry overnight. Here, Arilys had a spinning machine that squeezed the water out (like in locker rooms at swimming pools) and then the clothes dried within an hour. I also washed my gloves, helmet liner and boot liners. My main riding jacket, pants and the bike have been washed with the heavy rains. http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...74_hP9XR-L.jpg Heading out to the local beach, Playa El Rompió near Los Santos. Arilys' boyfriend is a big surfer and there's an active surf culture down here with much better beaches further south on the Peninsula de Azuero. The boats are waiting for high tide. http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...21_8tKDK-L.jpg Playa El Rompió at sunset. The beach is very shallow and each wave was coming in quite far. Nice mirror effect with the retreating water. http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...66_6aEJV-L.jpg Birds teasing the tide. http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...11_9MvnU-L.jpg Getting down low to meet the incoming tide. http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...14_bRnkz-L.jpg Being treated to a fish fry dinner at El Mirador, a lookout restaurant on a nearby hill. Arilys' dad works for the Ministry of Health and travels by road all over Panama and I was trying to get some information about the road to Yaviza. http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...62_Sfof4-L.jpg Fish fry of Corvina with patacones (squashed, fried plantains), washed down with cheladas - lager beer with lime and salt. Her dad and I added some hot sauce and made them micheladas. |
Panama, Part 2: Canal and Darien
Into Panama City to see the canal and onwards south to the end of the Pan-Am in Central America at Yaviza in the Darien. http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...12_8zMum-L.jpg After a nice two days in Chitré, I continued on south to Panama City. http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...60_oCnYd-L.jpg Crossing the Bridge of the Americas (Puente de las Américas) as it goes over the Pacific entrance to the Panama Canal. http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...01_eKQPb-L.jpg Riding alongside the Panama Canal Railway, which was built in 1855 in response to the Gold Rush in California and the numerous people traversing from the East Coast of the US to California, avoiding the wild interior. They took ships down to Panama, crossed the 50 mile isthmus and sailed onward to California. The railroad was also pivotal in Panama being chosen for the canal as it greatly helped during construction in hauling equipment in and debris out. Today, it helps transfer cargo from one side to the other in addition to ships traversing the canal. http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...40_sC9iQ-L.jpg The first of three locks in the Panama Canal, Miraflores. http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...32_hLrBh-L.jpg sanDRina at the Miraflores Locks in the Panama Canal with a Hapag-Llyod Panamax cargo ship traversing the lock. http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...35_sL6KL-L.jpg Miraflores Locks at the Panama Canal with a cargo ship in the far lock. The Panama Canal was constructed to reduce shipping times from the Atlantic Ocean to the Pacific Ocean, saving around 13,000 kms (8,125 miles) of going around Cape Horn. It costs about $100,000 per transit of the canal for big cargo ships compared to around $1 million that would be spent in fuel and other costs to go around Cape Horn. http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...97_88BuN-L.jpg The Hapag-Lloyd Panamax cargo ship at the last lock before reaching the Pacific Ocean. Instead of cutting straight through the continental divide, which the French tried initially when they started building the canal in 1880, the American design uses locks and dams to raise ships to an altitude of 26 m (86 ft) before dropping them back to sea level. http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...50_RsQqY-L.jpg Slowly being lowered as the water level drops in the lock. Panama was originally a state in Colombia and the US helped bring about independence to Panama in 1903 so that they could construct and operate the canal, which they did till 1999 when they turned over the operation to Panama. http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...91_CMX7r-L.jpg Two more Panamax cargo ships coming through. Panamax is a designation for the maximum allowed dimensions of a ship that is allowed to pass through the locks of the Panama Canal. Ships are designed specifically to fit through the locks. Supertankers that are much wider and longer than the locks are referred to as Post Panamax. http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...58_uvRRU-L.jpg The water is pumped from the top lock to the bottom lock (note the first ship is almost level with the ocean surface now). http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...03_6gYcF-L.jpg Being released into the Pacific Ocean. Look at that thing, it's 13 semi-trucks wide! Each time a lock is opened, 101,000 cubic meters (26.7 million gallons) of fresh water is released into the ocean. Seeing the wastefulness of this, the canal authority in cooperation with the World Business Council for Sustainable Development has designed into their future expansion water-saving basins at each lock that will reuse 60% of the water in each transit. http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...78_b74r8-L.jpg The next ship being lowered as the water level equalizes. http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...50_b6Rzb-L.jpg Once the water level is equal, the gates in the lock open... http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...24_HtdKh-L.jpg ...and the ship is tugged through to the next lock. The electric tug trains cost $2 million each and about 6-8 of them are used on each ship to help stabilize it thru the lock. There's only 2 ft of clearance on each side of Panamax ships. http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...06_evvK3-L.jpg Heading down to the last lock. It takes about 10 hours for a ship to transit the whole canal. http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...67_pyJHK-L.jpg The containers securely tied down. http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...08_igk8n-L.jpg The Panamax CCNI Punta Arenas, heading to Chile. Biggest users of the canal are the US, China and Chile. Most impressive to see this engineering marvel in person, paying respect to the thousands of workers who lost their lives in its construction. http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...98_Passh-L.jpg The Puente de las Américas, one of two permanent bridges connecting the north and south American land masses as it passes over the Panama Canal. I'm geo-technically on the southern American land mass :) http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...32_LAATo-L.jpg Heading down the Calzada de Amador (Causeway), which juts out into the ocean for about 3 kms. It was constructed by the debris from the canal. http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...04_grt2k-L.jpg It's a pleasant drive with space for jogging and bicycling; popular with residents and tourists. Note the ship on the right side, it was the first one I saw through the canal. http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...51_jKhy7-L.jpg Panama City skyline from the islands in Panama Bay. http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...16_oRGxV-L.jpg Panama City skyline with boats. It's probably the most modern looking Central American city I've come across, some say resembling Miami, with more English spoken here :p http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...68_VcZ5K-L.jpg Heading back into the city with a view of the Puente de las Américas. http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...36_RLiFf-L.jpg Casco Viejo, the old town in Panama City. It's a bit run down, but it's being slowly restored. Before construction on the Panama Canal began, all of Panama City was in Casco Viejo. It was abandoned for the new city as economic expansion dictated more real estate. http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...93_BDHFK-L.jpg Staying at Hospedaje Casco Viejo for $10. My first backpacker hostel of the trip. The area was considered dodgy a few years ago, but it's quite safe nowadays. http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...37_pVkGi-L.jpg Casco Viejo was recognized as a UNESCO World Heritage Site in 2003 and its restoration continues. http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...20_FSs8h-L.jpg Iglesia de La Merced, an old church still active with service. It looks like new construction was built to support the old facade. http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...72_sHhGu-L.jpg Parque Herrera at sunset. Lots of locals were milling about and the place was very active. |
http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...00_JrEXK-L.jpg Coming across a restaurant, run by Chinese with good looking food in the display window and approval from exiting locals. http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...55_oMuYL-L.jpg Rice and beans with chicken in a sauce and fried plantain and special sides of fried chicken gizzards and liver. Mmm, mmm, good. I've been craving me some gizzards. Cost $2.70. http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...97_8NPAs-L.jpg Walking back to the hostel I came across this small plaza where the chic outdoor restaurant in the corner was piping beautiful jazz music and I just had to sit down and soak it in with the fresh evening breeze and clear night skies up above. http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...33_3narX-L.jpg With one day left to catch my boat to Colombia, I decided to head out early to get to Yaviza, the town at the end of the Pan-American highway in Central America. http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...66_THHtP-L.jpg Catching a nice sunrise over the eastern part of Panama City. The southern corridor road cuts across the bay and is tolled. http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...17_kdkQe-L.jpg Heading towards Tocumen with the sun breaking through. http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...58_GHRP3-L.jpg After Chepo, the road gets smaller and there were numerous one-lane bridges with sheet metal coverings; slippery when wet. http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...85_GoiWU-L.jpg This ride was quite a challenge a few years ago when it was unpaved, but now it's a leisurely paved ride. But the scenery is still nice and there's some twisties here and there. http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...43_6YAyD-L.jpg Welcome to Darien, the famous remote province of Panama with less than three people per square kilometer. http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...93_2KN4e-L.jpg It's a UNESCO World Heritage site for its primeval landscape, which hasn't changed much in a million years due to lack of development. Surprisingly all these trees haven't been felled by loggers and it feels good to ride under the shadow of such lush forests. http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...50_rxK3F-L.jpg The scenery changes a bit (less trees around) as you get near Yaviza and the road gets twistier. http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...94_99TRr-L.jpg Welcome to Yaviza, the last town on the Pan-American highway until Colombia. The reason they haven't connected the road to the Pan-Am in Colombia is mainly because of the tough jungle terrain with lots of rivers and swamps to cross. I'm sure they could if they really wanted to and might at some point in the future, but for now, there is no intention to connect the road as it would destroy a lot of virgin forest and might spill over the fighting from Colombia into Panama and could ease drug smuggling. http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...48_pcnsW-L.jpg The Pan-Am just ends into this single lane concrete road as it circles around the township. http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...00_Ks4tg-L.jpg There are military guards all through the Darien and they take down your passport details in case something goes wrong. Once you enter Yaviza, you're directed to go check in at the local police station and have to tell them what your intentions are (staying the night, just having lunch, etc). http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...25_dRcxd-L.jpg This could be considered the symbolic end of the road as the Darien continues on the other side of this bridge. People have crossed the Darien Gap overland into Colombia, but it's a serious expedition. http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...58_Ym7Um-L.jpg Locals pulling ashore with plantains to sell. http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...44_FeKxH-L.jpg You can get a taste of what lies ahead in the jungle. Colombia is just about 150 kms away. I'm happy that there's a gap here as it adds a bit of excitement in getting to Colombia. http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...88_veSdG-L.jpg Having lunch at a decent looking restaurant in Yaviza. There were lots of locals about, but not unsafe in anyway. Having left Panama City at 6 am, I got to Yaviza by 10:30. http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...23_CgVmb-L.jpg Having sancocho, a typical food around the whole of Panama, basically a soup with some meat and cassava. This one was with goat meat. Cost $1.50. http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...24_aiCpZ-L.jpg The colorful public transportation of Central America. All through these countries, the buses, usually old American school buses are decorated and painted in wild colors. This isn't the best example, but this was the last one I would be seeing so had to snag a pic of it. Made it back from Yaviza to the town of Chepo. Last night in Central America, boarding the boat tomorrow. http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...52_wMV8n-L.jpg My ride back from Yaviza was exciting as I incurred another flat. I was slowly losing air in the rear tire after lunch and decided to just keep adding air and riding it to my destination for the night where I could work on it leisurely. This small nail was the culprit. I found it as it poked me; good thing for that tetanus shot. http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...29_CM562-L.jpg Having a nice place to work on it at the back of Posado Caledron in Chepo. Room cost $12 plus $3 for the bike. http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...72_YvNSx-L.jpg Using the Tyrepliers Beadbreaker successfully. It works well on one side and the other side usually requires a bit of wrangling with a tire iron to get the bead to break. (The bead on a tire is the contact area that secures the rubber tire to the metal rim). http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...30_PvQU9-L.jpg Three huge 15" tire irons, making an easy job of getting the tire on and off the rim. Not really easy, but much better than using standard smaller tire irons. http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...74_6J5V5-L.jpg What a coincidence that this new puncture was just about an inch away from my first puncture. I thought at first that the patch on the first puncture had failed, but I found the angled gouge from the new nail. http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...00_BrWSn-L.jpg I had to remove the first patch and tried a larger patch to cover both punctures but the patch wasn't sticking since I didn't have the right tools to overcome the curvature of the heavy duty tube, so I walked over to the local tire mechanic and had him patch the tube. He's grinding the area here. http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...99_swtLX-L.jpg He applied hot vulcanizing rubber to cover both punctures and set it in this press to cure. http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...46_E6hui-L.jpg While waiting, another customer came by for an inner tube for a truck. He's running it through the water tub to check for leaks. http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...35_3oCdo-L.jpg $1 for a nice, thick, huge patch. He liked the heavy duty tube and complained of the cheap, thin Chinese tubes that are widely available here. I'm going to keep patching this tube. http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...82_XDdwM-L.jpg Two hours later, tire is back on and ready to ride to Carti tomorrow to load onto the boat. Enjoying a nice chowmein at the local Chinese restaurant for $2.50. |
Sailing On The Stahlratte, Part 1: Getting on
Journeying overland from North to South America presents all travelers with the question of how to cross the Darien Gap, a 150 kms (95 mile) stretch of dense jungle that has seen no development due to its harsh environment of swamps and rivers. It's for the better to preserve some raw nature in today's high-paced world. The Pan-American highway ends in Yaviza, Panama and picks up past the jungle in Colombia. The quick option is to fly over from Panama to Bogota or Quito, but it's also the expensive option. The more fun option is to put the bike on a sailboat and cross over to Cartagena, Colombia, across the Caribbean Sea. There have been quite a few riders who've taken the sailboat option and had a bad experience as the captain was either inexperienced or didn't deliver as promised. With that in mind, I wanted to make sure to sail with the most reliable captain and boat in these waters: Ludwig on the Stahlratte, a 40 meter (130 ft) steel-hulled sail ship, built in 1903 and still going strong. I contacted Ludwig before I began my trip and planned the Central America portion of the ride in order to get to the boat on time. May 10 was the last sailing date before the Stahlratte was going into maintenance for about two months in Cartagena, and as I got delayed leaving the US, this was the earliest I could make it down here. When Ludwig informed me that the trip was booked completely by a group, I asked if there was someway I could still come aboard as part of the crew and work my way across, not requiring much comforts, as I was mainly looking to just get across to Colombia. He happily agreed and said he could use the extra help and I would only need to pay $360 to transport the motorcycle over. I was feeling good about this and excited to be part of the crew of a sailing ship, that too on my first voyage across open waters. Ludwig, along with all the other captains, offers a four day sailing trip where the first two days are spent exploring the beautiful San Blas Archipelago and then sailing across open waters to Cartagena in about 30 hours. I came on board a day early to meet the crew and get familiar with my duties. http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...28_bc8VH-L.jpg The Stahlratte was anchored near Carti on the Caribbean side of Panama (upper-right on map) and from Chepo (blue marker), I had to take the Llano-Carti road across the divide (black line along the white makers). The road is to the right of the right-most white marker. http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...33_iyJXn-L.jpg The route of the voyage from Carti, Panama to Cartagena, Colombia. Click on it to go to the interactive version in Google Maps. http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...74_mb6cJ-L.jpg It was a beautiful ride as the road crossed the continental divide. http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...36_mxQCK-L.jpg The road was mostly paved, but had gravel spots in the troughs. The route also steeply descended and ascended rapidly. http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...80_NgmQt-L.jpg Entrance fee of $9 required by the Kuna Indians as this is a protected area. http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...57_xssTJ-L.jpg Riding through dense jungle with a bit of rain. http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...28_VQyf9-L.jpg The fast-flowing Rio Carti Grande, which was about a meter deep. In the dry season it's easy to cross the river, but with the start of the rainy season, there was no way. http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...65_GrZLs-L.jpg The road picking up on the other side. They're building a new bridge, which should be done in a year or so. http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...37_MVbdw-L.jpg Ludwig arranged with the Kunas to have a canoe ready for me to take me to the Stahlratte. http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...89_Qrhut-L.jpg I felt like I've done my part in getting to the end of the road here on time and now things were happening to get me to Colombia. http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...42_WgdBP-L.jpg Heaving the front wheel into the canoe. http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...91_A7rVU-L.jpg Balancing on the frame and turning her forward. http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...33_9CXRE-L.jpg And lifting the rear of the bike into the canoe. The guy at the back was holding onto my rear tool tube and snapped a zip-tie, but besides that, it went quite smoothly. http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...92_96iU6-L.jpg Aboard my first canoe with sanDRina. http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...33_fjpAG-L.jpg They used planks on either side to stabilize the bike but I remained sitting on her, just in case. http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...72_Go8Df-L.jpg Heading out. http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...85_8reVz-L.jpg Kunas paddling upstream in a slim canoe. http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...07_mxXzs-L.jpg The lead boatsman checked the silt build along the way, from perhaps known sand bars. http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...95_EUzfB-L.jpg Cruising down the Rio Carti Grande. http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...44_p7Kj5-L.jpg Heading out to the open sea. http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...18_9Q5vg-L.jpg Huge pieces of driftwood at the mouth of the river. http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...54_zQfvr-L.jpg The brown, murky, sediment-filled color of the river slowly getting diluted by the blueness of the sea. The Stahlratte off in the distance. http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...01_RXRqm-L.jpg Coming up to the Stahlratte. http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...85_TDUQN-L.jpg The Stahlratte, meaning "steel rat". A Bremen, Germany registered vessel. It was built in 1903 in The Netherlands and started life out as a fishing vessel. It was bought in 1984 by the Association of Advancement for Sailing Navigation in Germany and converted to the current twin mast schooner layout and is heading on a long term voyage around the world. Besides a hefty diesel engine, two generators, a seawater-desalination unit, she's also equipped with all the necessary safety equipment, including satellite communications. http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...47_QvJUN-L.jpg Pulling up alongside. http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...88_J5x2y-L.jpg The Captain, Ludwig getting the ropes ready to lift sanDRina on board. http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...23_B8xJf-L.jpg Yeah, just as we got close to the ship, the bike started leaning over with me still sitting on it and I feared we were going to fall in the water. Quick save by the Kunas. |
http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...77_BcRex-L.jpg Ludwig's First Officer, Roland or Roli, stabilizing the bike as she was winched up. http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...30_BsjEy-L.jpg Easy does it. http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...98_x62vs-L.jpg Getting some air. http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...74_ydu2P-L.jpg The pulleys used for lifting the bike on board. She was tied around the handle bars and the luggage frame. http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...05_dYEdC-L.jpg Safely on board the Stahlratte. http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...50_sSFqQ-L.jpg Passing my panniers onto the ship. http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...00_BHAtM-L.jpg Roli securing the bike to the side of the ship. He's also a rider and has been traveling for many years, setting off from Austria. He custom-built a motorcycle and rode around South America for five years. After Ludwig helped him in getting across, he decided to stay on board and help restore the ship before finding passage onwards to Asia, hoping the Stahlratte heads that way. He's skilled in electronics, among other things and re-did lots of the wiring on the ship. http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...46_qfGcH-L.jpg The canoe that we came in. Cost $20. http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...40_6pmUs-L.jpg Woohoo, finally on board the Stahlratte! I was impressed at the size of the ship and being greater than 30 meters (100 ft), she can be called a ship instead of a boat. http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...88_q5fgN-L.jpg On the upper deck looking back at the captain's bridge. http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...54_bkMbW-L.jpg Looking ahead at the ship's wheel, used for manual control. The two levers beside it control the rudder and engine speed. She also had auto-pilot, which was used once we were on open waters. http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...12_Ywo5b-L.jpg Ludwig preparing dinner in the ship's galley of steak and potatoes. They liked to eat well and both were good cooks. http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...74_nCGC5-L.jpg Having dinner at the main dining table on the upper level. The girl on the right is Peggy, a friend of a friend of Ludwig's who spent about two weeks on board, who was leaving the next day for Costa Rica when the main passengers were due to arrive. http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...91_ag7Qg-L.jpg The interior of the Stahlratte - looking towards the front from the library/office into the kitchen. The hatch door behind the bench was the entrance to my cabin. http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...18_tb65C-L.jpg Heading down into my cabin for the trip. http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...81_YyNAP-L.jpg It was a good-sized room at the back of the ship and that fan made it a pleasant journey. http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...14_DAmG9-L.jpg The cabin was right behind the engine room and there were some diesel fumes but at least I had one small window to the outside world. http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...57_f79JY-L.jpg Ladder leading out of my dungeon. http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...37_rm3yu-L.jpg The back of the ship where Roli slept. Watermelons in the net. http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...73_5nSnd-L.jpg The exhaust pipe from the engine exiting the side of the ship with a workbench above it. http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...14_DiLM4-L.jpg Food stores in the back of lots of fresh vegetables and fruits. http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...73_Hm7Va-L.jpg The kitchen preparation area and indoor dining. http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...53_pZ9uT-L.jpg Cooler stacked with sodas and beer (part of my duties were to keep it restocked). http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...38_u4i47-L.jpg Filling up on fresh water for the trip. There was an on board desalinization unit that could pump out 120 liters of fresh water in an hour. http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...09_HBRxd-L.jpg Pantry with lots of food for the trip. http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...09_ZK9SW-L.jpg Heading down to the main passenger cabin from the kitchen. http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...00_nDKiG-L.jpg The main passenger cabin, which slept about 20 people. |
Sailing On The Stahlratte, Part 2: Cruising The Caribbean
http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...08_f39oy-L.jpg Setting sail on Day 1 of the voyage. http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...41_dLJNX-L.jpg The jungled mountains of the Darien staying close as we hugged the coast heading down the San Blas Archipelago. http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...83_Ak33G-L.jpg Ship detail on an island. http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...33_hsLTy-L.jpg Arriving at Isla Moron (in Kuna language: Narrasgandup Dummat), our destination for the first night. Bike was covered to protect against the salt spray. http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...64_AfQFp-L.jpg As soon as we dropped anchor, Steven here jumped in. http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...16_C4NQ8-L.jpg Getting ashore and exploring the island. http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...68_4X9Ef-L.jpg The steel rat, rusting a bit and requiring regular care, but a handsome sight nonetheless. http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...66_LsKtz-L.jpg Heading ashore in the dinghy to prepare dinner. http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...16_TRDaj-L.jpg Roli in the dinghy. I basically stuck to Roli and helped in whatever he asked. http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...97_X7t9g-L.jpg The girls collecting shells on Isla Moron with our home for the next few days anchored offshore. http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...82_PYTyC-L.jpg Pristine beach all to ourselves. http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...40_EgKrT-L.jpg Eliza and the Stahlratte. http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...28_mqvYk-L.jpg Roli getting a chicken barbeque going. http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...75_Fwozn-L.jpg Mmm, barbequed Jamaican jerk chicken. Besides Cartagena, Ludwig also makes trips to Jamaica and gets some good spices while he's there. http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...17_dK2ng-L.jpg Having dinner on the island as dusk grew into night. http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...77_KG3rt-L.jpg Sailing about two hours the next morning to our destination for the day, Coco Bandero (in Kuna: Ordup). http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...55_4vU7n-L.jpg An island for the day. http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...97_rphoG-L.jpg Too small, ok, here's another one nearby. Amazing to see so many small islands across the landscape. This is all protected area and the Kunas harvest the coconuts from all the islands. http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...47_La4gk-L.jpg If you're really bad, you might get castaway on this two-tree island. http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...88_hWSEr-L.jpg Shipwreck. http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...41_DTeQT-L.jpg One of the cyclists, Parker having a swing on the boom line. http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...83_ZWZbZ-L.jpg Letting go... http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...23_xWN5H-L.jpg ...and plunging into the Caribbean. http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...61_Xtgvz-L.jpg View down from the crow's nest up on the main mast with people relaxing in the net up front. http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...11_uFX22-L.jpg Looking back at the ship. Black netting was put up to provide shade. http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...77_LuweA-L.jpg While anchored for the day, Ludwig had some Kunas scrub the side of the ship. http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...30_3m7Hi-L.jpg View of our island for the day from the crow's nest. I tried snorkeling here for the first time and really liked it - nice window into the world under the ocean surface. It was also my first time swimming across deep open waters and I'm not a strong swimmer but managed to make it to the island from the ship. http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...97_5cifH-L.jpg Preparing orange juice in the kitchen with the passengers whose turn of kitchen duty it was. Along with Roli and I, about four people took turns each day helping with the food duties. The guy in the middle is Seth, the organizing cyclist and the three girls are sisters: (L-R) Maddie, Hannah and Eliza (Seth's girlfriend). Everyone on board was super friendly and cordial. Giant Roli getting in on the picture. |
http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...51_ozJDy-L.jpg Seth is actually sponsored by fishing companies for his cycling trip and they're all about fishing in interesting places. He and Steven caught these two fish on the island and Roli is cleaning them up for dinner. http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...92_X6RNs-L.jpg One of the girls, Danielle, wanted to learn how to clean a fish and Roli is showing her how to make fillets. http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...43_tFeba-L.jpg Fried fish for dinner. Along with the fish Seth caught, we had barracuda. http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...05_d2WCs-L.jpg Dinner on top, the night before setting sail for Colombia. http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...56_HGR6y-L.jpg Cleaning the ship, getting ready to sail. http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...98_AGDog-L.jpg Breakfast with a view. http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...64_RiDiS-L.jpg After breakfast on the third day, we got the ship ready for the open water voyage. Ludwig got a weather report from his agent in Cartagena that there were 3-4 meter (10-13 ft) swells on the voyage ahead. If it had been greater than 7 meter (23 ft) swells, Ludwig said we would wait it out. http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...09_EPzdE-L.jpg Roli cranking the bow motor to reel in the anchor. http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...45_K4Ayj-L.jpg The anchor raising up and we're underway. Note the rich blue color of the water. http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...87_ygvLE-L.jpg Hoisting up the sails to add stability to the ship. To move forward only with the sails would take longer and since the ship was on a schedule, it was an engine-powered voyage. http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...42_5ibbJ-L.jpg Dolphins surfing the bow of the Stahlratte! http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...92_FWamb-L.jpg A huge pod of them kept us company for a while before breaking off. The ship was moving wildly up and down and we were wondering how they know not to get hit by the ship. http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...40_ZTgrr-L.jpg Ludwig at the captain's wheel with the sails fully deployed. http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...93_wd2A8-L.jpg The swells on the first day were quite impressive. The ship pitched up and down as she rode the swells. We would see a big swell coming our way and everyone would brace and yee-haw as we went up and over it. It was wilder than any roller coaster ride I've been on. http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...39_XYmWG-L.jpg Everyone got a little sick and some people were not feeling good the whole voyage. The mood became quite somber as everyone found their place of comfort on the ship and tried to sleep it off. It was better to be up here in the back than in their beds down low in the front. I started taking sea-sickness pills before getting on the ship, but it was still too much for me and I had to hurl twice. But I felt much better after that and keeping busy also helped. http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...71_Rg67p-L.jpg Preparing breakfast on Day 4, last day of the voyage. My usual duties were to cut tomatoes, pineapple, prepare the cheese and meat plate and anything else that was required. I actually enjoy cutting vegetables, so it wasn't so bad. And I liked how Roli placed importance on presentation as you eat with your eyes as much as you do with your mouth. http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...96_BKwd4-L.jpg The stove with supports to prevent the pots from moving while we were underway. The three little pots on top were used to make espresso - good strong coffee. http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...75_ri34X-L.jpg The view from the kitchen. I had to keep an eye on the horizon to quell my queasiness. http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...28_8vRRN-L.jpg Getting sprayed with salt water as we crashed down from a swell. Good thing for that bike cover, but my rotors still got rusty. I was told to spray the bike down with WD-40 before getting on board to protect against the salt, but forgot about it as I was repairing my flat tire. http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...83_6UXzT-L.jpg Dolphins again as we neared Cartagena. http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...39_AYchZ-L.jpg Looking back from the bow (front). http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...86_GAB25-L.jpg Ludwig keeping a watchful eye on the waters ahead. He and Roli took turns through the night to man the ship. I asked if I could help, but they said they still needed to be on watch because I wasn't experienced in this, of course. http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...32_sFdNW-L.jpg Reading up top by the captain's wheel. After I got over my queasiness, I spent lots of time up here with a great view all around. http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...95_kRoDE-L.jpg Looking ahead on the starboard (right) side and first land sighting ahead on the right. |
http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...42_fDoDK-L.jpg Everyone feeling better as the swells died down near Cartagena. http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...38_scMBq-L.jpg Sun setting on a wonderful voyage across the Caribbean Sea from Panama to Colombia. http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...73_YYRFw-L.jpg The tattered German flag indicating where the ship was registered. http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...09_f5pXf-L.jpg Heading into Cartagena with a cargo ship chasing us. If he caught up, we would need to let them pass, since they have higher priority for getting into port. http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...41_DHZ7e-L.jpg Beautiful colors over Colombia. http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...73_6p6NV-L.jpg The modern Cartagena skyline, as we pulled into port around 7 pm. http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...10_KXGiN-L.jpg Passing by the cargo ship terminal, Colombia's largest port. http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...56_6avVJ-L.jpg The next morning, Ludwig heading ashore with my bike papers to process the temporary importation. He has to work through a shipping agent and takes care of all the fees. He also got all our passports stamped into Colombia. http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...08_dvzhK-L.jpg Waiting a few hours for my customs papers to process. sanDRina, say hello to Cartagena. http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...48_qoEZP-L.jpg Bringing sanDRina ashore in the dinghy. http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...95_2dEJ3-L.jpg I hoped there would be a crane to help unload the bike, but that was wishful thinking. http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...63_2ZrZC-L.jpg We just hauled and dragged her onto the pier. Good thing she's not a pretty bike and doesn't mind a few scars. http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...08_NNXEu-L.jpg Sneaking a picture at the customs office. http://jammin.smugmug.com/Other/10-0...50_9DEso-L.jpg Free at last in South America! Good to be back on two wheels and happy to have voyaged across the Caribbean sea on the Stahlratte. |
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