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From Sunshine to Snow
View from the handlebars
http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/I...IMG_0028-M.jpg Ms Coates on the road with a serious look on her face as she has less than four days to get to Delhi from Leh http://d26ya5yqg8yyvs.cloudfront.net/icon10.gif It was time to head south again to meet my group in Delhi, as I was re-tracing my route up, I was feeling pretty confident, especially as I was by now acclimatised a lot more to the altitude (4-5000m). But I should have known, things do not always go smoothly. To begin with: the yak with attitude in the road http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/I...IMG_0029-M.jpg He stopped and gave me the evil eye a few times before moving off http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/I...IMG_0030-M.jpg he had all his mates with him and I wondered if an Enfield could outrun a herd of stampeding yak. There seemed to be less snow than on the way up which was a good sign http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/I...IMG_0033-M.jpg Yep, had I mentioned the stunning views and scenery around every corner?? http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/I...IMG_0039-M.jpg Even the Buddhist monks were impressed by their surroundings http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/I...IMG_0038-M.jpg At times I had company on the road, I was impressed by the balancing skills of this guy as he chugged along. http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/I...IMG_0031-M.jpg Not the most crisp and sharp of photos, but to be fair I was also riding along on the gravel as I snapped this quick picture. A brief stop at Pang for momos with Mama Momo and the choughs - a symbol of Cornwall (my home nation) and incredible to see them in the Himalayas http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/I...IMG_0036-M.jpg http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/I...IMG_0047-M.jpg One of my favourite spots - I'd like to try and ride my bike through the arch http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/I...IMG_0048-M.jpg But that's just a narrow gravel footpath running up to it - and feeling a bit sensible and grown up, I decided to wait until I had someone with me to attempt it...just in case things went wrong http://d26ya5yqg8yyvs.cloudfront.net/icon10.gif |
Return to Sarchu
I was feeling pretty good, I had the bulk of my journey done for the day, there were a few hold ups where trucks had got stuck
http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/I...IMG_0066-M.jpg but I was always able to slip through on my bike, unlike some countries I could mention, people were happy to shift their vehicles over a bit to allow two-wheelers to squeeze past. http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/I...IMG_0067-M.jpg some of them had been there for hours. Going around a corner, I saw a familiar face - it was Vincent from Paris, whom I'd met in Manali and was also staying at Ride Inn, he was looking very local and riding a hire bike with the standard Indian-style pannier racks http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/I...IMG_0068-M.jpg Ahead, I had another mountain pass, pausing for a celebratory picture in my usual style http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/I...IMG_0063-M.jpg This was a bit tricky as the Enfield does not have as much width as my BMW and so it was a bit of a balancing act, and all while the precious 10 secondsself timer were ticking away on the camera http://d26ya5yqg8yyvs.cloudfront.net/icon10.gif I descended from the pass quite quickly, weird stagmites in a cave http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/I...IMG_0075-M.jpg http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/I...IMG_0076-M.jpg A cyclist took these photos of me (after I asked him) http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/I...IMG_0069-M.jpg http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/I...IMG_0072-M.jpg The scenery was changing constantly, I was getting out of the snow, back to the river valley http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/I...IMG_0080-M.jpg |
Sarchu Sojourn
In the distance, the tent settlement that is Sarchu appeared, I rode into my old camp - I'm a creature of habit and like to return to my old haunts, plus I felt grateful to the guys as they'd been so nice.
http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/I...IMG_0091-M.jpg Although my tent camp appeared to be quite basic from the outside. http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/I...IMG_9898-M.jpg Inside it was a very different matter http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/I...IMG_0086-M.jpg They'd transformed each tent with carpets and brightly coloured cushions. I'd been feeling too nauseous to take photos of the interior on the way up; but now I was feeling fine and wandered around a bit before heading to the kitchen tent in search of a cup of tea. http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/I...IMG_0087-M.jpg The three guys who run this camp live in this tent - using it for cooking, eating, sleeping and as their only shelter from the elements outside which at this high elevation can be quite harsh (4200m). My eyes adjusted to the gloom and they invited me into sit down and share some chai followed by Maggi (the ubiquitous instant noodle dish which is popular in the Himalayas) and always referred to by its trade name. To give you a better idea of the interior, I took another picture, this time using the flash on my camera http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/I...IMG_0088-M.jpg These guys come from local towns and spend three months or so over the summer in this tent and running the camp. They arrive as soon as the passes are open and then close up shop when the snows return in force. |
Extreme Chills
It's morning at 4200m
http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/I...IMG_0092-M.jpg It's cold, the skies are overcast and it started snowing...yikes http://d26ya5yqg8yyvs.cloudfront.net/eek7.gif I've got a lot of miles to cover today. On a journey that usually takes people two days I need to complete in just one day. The guys who run the camp are still asleep as I start up the Enfield (the electric start wasn't so keen at this altitude and in the cold so I gave it a few kicks as well). I rolled out of camp and passed through the checkpoint. The only witness to my heading up the mountain was this little fellow http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/I...IMG_0093-M.jpg A marmot. I was heading up to Baralacha, which I'd had no problems with on the way up but it does have a notorious reputation in bad weather. The snow got heavier and heavier as I rode and I did start to feel a bit apprehensive. The usually quiet roads seemed even more empty his morning - maybe everyone had heard the weather forecast in Hindi and had chosen not to travel. While Mrs Blissfully Ignorant here was riding off into a maelstrom. It was much snowier as I neared the top http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/I...IMG_0101-M.jpg I reached the tent chai stops and pulled up feeling numb and cold. Inside the tent, everything is blue due to the blue tarps that are used as a roof. I sat in the corner and clutched my mug of steaming chai - doing my Ninja Coates impression wearing my thermal balaclava http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/I...IMG_0099-M.jpg The women were busy in the kitchen area http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/I...IMG_0096-M.jpg This woman was on stove duty and made me some parathas (flatbread stuffed with spice and lightly fried) http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/I...IMG_0095-M.jpg |
The Frozen Mountain
One pint of chai later and I had a new problem on my hands - the loo
http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/I...IMG_0097-M.jpg It meant scuttling out the back door, to the uninviting stone enclosure on the right, heaving the corrugated iron sheet away from the door, removing several layers of clothes and then baring my backside to the elements as I hovered over a hole in the ground. You blokes don't know when you've got it easy. Looking on the bright side as everything was frozen, there was no nasty smell from the hole in the ground. Hastily getting my clothes tucked back in I returned to the tea tent and said my goodbyes, I really didn't want to leave the warm and cosy atmosphere but I had two big mountains ahead of me. Back on the Enfield we chugged off up the hill- by this point it was blizzard conditions but I was determined to get through. It was bloody miserable, I can't begin to describe what it felt like and only managed to snatch one quick photo http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/I...IMG_0100-M.jpg I swallowed a lot of diesel fumes as I followed the slow-moving trucks up the steep ascent with freezing water running under the wheels and grabbing dubious opportunities to overtake. Feeling paranoid the trucks weren't aware of my presence, the noise of the horn disappearing into the snow and aware that the lorry drivers were concentrating on the road ahead and the steep precipice off to the side rather than on the possibility of small bikes trying to overtake. It was grim http://advrider.com/forums/images/smilies/triste.gifhttp://advrider.com/forums/images/smilies/triste.gif At least my hands were warm, my Gerbing gloves were wired into the battery on the bike which seemed to be holding out well. I made it over Baralacha La, not pausing for even a quick look round. Down the other side which I knew was a better road BUT it had the river crossings and bloody hell were they cold http://d26ya5yqg8yyvs.cloudfront.net/eek7.gif it had stopped snowing, the dogs watched me passing from the snow bank at the side of the road http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/I...IMG_0102-M.jpg The weather cleared up a bit, and I descended below the snow line. http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/I...IMG_0105-M.jpg I'd made it http://d26ya5yqg8yyvs.cloudfront.net/clap.gifhttp://d26ya5yqg8yyvs.cloudfront.net/clap.gif |
A Final Bit of Drama
I knew I was back in civilisation when the road became filled with what seemed like a thousand sheep and all going in the opposite direction, with a couple of cars resignedly trying to get through.
http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/I...IMG_0104-M.jpg However, sheep were the least of my problems, I had something technical wrong. At first I had thought I'd knackered the gearbox, but then I realised it was something else....as an Airhead rider I'm used to shaft drive bikes, and have little experience with these rattling metal things called chainshttp://d26ya5yqg8yyvs.cloudfront.net/icon10.gif. A few days earlier one of the Mumbai Road Stallion guys had said that my sprocket was very worn and would need replacing. Yes, I did hear him and understood but I was hoping that I'd be able to get back to Manali and then replace the sprockets. However the Enfield had other ideas, the chain had started to slip a bit on the ascent of Baralacha, by the time I reached the sheep it was getting worse and I barely made it into Khoksar. Khoksar is the final settlement before the ascent of Rohtang remember this...http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/I...IMG_9853-S.jpg I knew I wouldn't have a hope of getting up the mountain with the way the chain was slipping over the toothless sprocket. It was time to find help. There are no mechanics in the village and so I asked around and immediately got a ride in a very small pick up truck, I got the Enfield up a bank and into the back of the truck, and then jumped in with the driver, Ali. http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/I...IMG_0106-M.jpg He was very nice but clear that he could only take me to the top of Rohtang Pass, from there on, I would be on my own. I assured him this would not be a problem as it is all downhill to Manali from there. Due to the poor weather and snowy conditions of the past 24 hours, the mountain was worse than it had been a few days previously and I luxuriated in the comfort of the truck. At the top, all was deserted with no one to help unload the bike, Ali reversed up to a snow bank http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/I...IMG_0107-M.jpg and somehow between us we managed to get the bike out http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/I...IMG_0108-M.jpg Ali posed with my bike, even his jacket matched the paintwork. http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/I...IMG_0109-M.jpg He was not too happy with leaving me on my own, he needed to get back to his own village before dark, but I reassured him that I was used to this sort of situation and that I would be fine. Further down there would be others around. So off I went on a bike that had the world's most toothless sprocket, freewheeling all the way. I had 51 kms (30 miles) to cover and the light was not going to last long. I was back up in the snow, and passed the snow tourists http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/I...IMG_0110-M.jpg Suffice to say, that I didn't linger to take photos, I was concentrating on getting down the mountain without engaging the gears. I managed to get one brief photo of the road ahead further down http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/I...IMG_0111-M.jpg Yep - that all looks downhill, should be OK. http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/I...IMG_0114-M.jpg It was another chapter in the Book of Ms Coates and her Nerve-Wracking Situations I finally got to Manali, luckily Ride Inn is on the north side of town, I had to push the Enfield up the lane for the final 500metres, but I had made it http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/I...IMG_9827-M.jpg This was as far as I needed to ride. From here I was getting a bus to Delhi while the bike was having a workshop visit and would be trucked to our rendezvous at Parwanoo in the foothills. I had mixed emotions, the intensity of the past 10 days on my own had been immense, from the challenge of the blizzards and overtaking the lorries on the rutted tracks to crossing the rivers solo. As always I had a sense of "Yes, I've done it" but also a sense of sadness that this part of the adventure was over, there was no snow outside of the window, in fact it felt positively balmy. And now I was about to head to one of the worlds largest, most chaotic and congested cities. I'd miss the mountains. But ahead is a whole new adventure with my all-female group of riders, leading them up to the mountains; retracing the route I'd just ridden but at a more sensible pace. |
The Rest of the Ladies Join Me
And now it's the turn of my intrepid group.
I had made the return journey to Manali and taken an overnight bus out of the mountains and down to Delhi and experienced other forms of public transport including the tuk-tuks (or auto rickshaws as they're referred to in India) http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/I...IMG_0117-M.jpg It was quite an introduction to the roads of India when someone else is driving - they have 145cc CNG driven engines and most are pretty rusty with holes in the floor. But what a great ride, they have the most incredible turning circle and the drivers are fearless in the heaving chaotic mass that passes for traffic in this hugely congested city. I met up with my group as they flew in, the jet lag soon disappeared, though not helped by the extremely high temperatures, Delhi was hot at 46 degrees centigrade (114 Fahrenheit). We had a look around the city http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/I...IMG_0116-M.jpg This is where industrial amounts of curry are produced. we went a bit more upmarket for our meals, including this place with the great doorman http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/I...IMG_0118-M.jpg We drove out of Delhi on a minibus, though some of the traffic looks quite civilised http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/I...IMG_0119-M.jpg We would be getting on our bikes some miles away in the foothills of the Himalayas, where it's a bit cooler and quieter In the meantime, we enjoyed the sights as we were driven http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/I...IMG_0120-M.jpg http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/L...IMG_2476-M.jpg http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/I...IMG_0122-M.jpg With our first mountain hotel not only having great views but also a pool with a view and cold beers http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/I...IMG_0124-M.jpg the serious business was about to get underway - http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/I...IMG_0126-M.jpg I was reunited with my beloved blue Enfield, while the others were introduced to their Royal Enfield Bullets. http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/I...IMG_0127-M.jpg I soon got them into the swing of things http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/L...6W/0/M/a-M.jpg http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/I...IMG_0132-M.jpg |
On Your Marks, Get Set...Go
One added advantage when I'm travelling with a group is that I get more pictures of me (it may be dubious as to whether you feel that's an advantage or not) I also get involved in more comedy moments, and here is one of them - a sneak preview of a couple of weeks down the line
http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/L...0%282%29-M.jpg Yes folks, it's Ms Coates with Giant Loop luggage on a camel. Way before all that though my group were put through their paces in a carpark as they got used to riding the Enfields and memorising the mantra "Do NOT grab front brake" http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/I...IMG_0154-M.jpg slow control - always important http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/I...IMG_0163-M.jpg I start to feel like we're a mini-biker gang http://d26ya5yqg8yyvs.cloudfront.net/icon10.gif http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/I...IMG_0157-M.jpg And the crowds got bigger and bigger as they gathered to watch Ladies on Motorbikes - the Bullet is the most powerful bike in India and is considered highly unsuitable for women. http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/I...IMG_0158-M.jpg We're happy with our riding, and with our Ladies in Ladakh T-Shirts, and head off for dinner and a couple of beers to wash it down with. the next morning sees us up early and hitting the road...with caution http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/L...DSC_0006-M.jpg http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/L...DSC_0008-M.jpg |
On the Road
The view for my group
http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/L...DSC_0098-M.jpg It's not often I get to see what the view is like for my groups as they follow me. The foothills of the Himalayas have few major towns and reasonably quiet roads as well as some cooler weather which is a big relief for us. http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/I...IMG_0182-M.jpg We can take things easy, as we don't have too many miles to go- and of course it's great t be overseas and yet still be riding on the left http://d26ya5yqg8yyvs.cloudfront.net/icon10.gif http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/I...IMG_0181-M.jpg At the risk of being accused of lulling my group into a false sense of security, I have to post up this picture - rather shocking one http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/I...IMG_0183-M.jpg Showing not only a smart looking car but also a decent road AND it's got road markings http://d26ya5yqg8yyvs.cloudfront.net/eekers.gif a bit of a change from what lies ahead http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/I...IMG_0100-S.jpg but we'll worry about conditions like that when we get to them. In the meantime it was all smiles http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/I...IMG_0184-M.jpg and a chance to stop for chats and to take photos http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/I...IMG_0185-M.jpg If the guys in the garage had been surprised before when I turned up on my Enfield, they were even more surprised to see a whole group of ladies on Enfields http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/I...IMG_0173-M.jpg Roadworks, so we had to stop http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/I...IMG_0178-M.jpg and in typical European (and Indian style) we filtered through up to the front - something I have been told off about in America on many occasions by car drivers who have been almost incandescent with rage. http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/I...IMG_0177-M.jpg http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/I...IMG_0189-M.jpg We did have a bit of rough riding to do, on the road leading to our hotel in Shimla http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/I...IMG_0212-M.jpg It was dirt surface and wet and also seemed to run through the local rubbish dump, so the worst part was the smell http://d26ya5yqg8yyvs.cloudfront.net/icon10.gif and into the hotel carpark http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/I...IMG_0226-M.jpg A debrief then we piled into a taxi to get to the top of the hill in Shimla http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/I...IMG_0229-M.jpg |
Awesome
Great stuff girls:mchappy:
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Girls on wheels ....
Hi Tiffany.
Loved your epic solo run to Leh & back, well done :thumbup1: Have done that run in 2000 & gotta say it looks just the same, right down to signs & little blue tents:rolleyes: Though have to admit must have taken the economy one, don't remember posh cushions etc ... :confused1: But do remember the beauty, the silence, the cold :freezing: but most of all the feeling afterwards on getting back down to Manila, just super :clap: Tell the girls to have a good time this is summit that they will remember for a long time. Stay safe & keep the rubber side down :scooter: Have fun Vince |
Tiffany i know this ride is done and dusted ,but i must say i really enjoyed seeing your photo's .Magnificent country .On the toilet thing ,have you considered a she wee? a lady friend said they are useful at times .The size of bikes in India must have some exceptions as i know of a couple of guys with big Harleys ,i believe KTM have a presence there too.Anyhow till next time regards Noel:D
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Amazing Recce
Tiffany congratulations on making a reconnaissance trip look like a once in a lifetime adventure. You are one tough cookie and being out there doing it solo myself gives me a whole new appreciation of your travels and the times between the photos. There are still 24 hours in a day to fill.
I can't wait to read about the group trip when the adventure REALLY starts!! I'm also realising the challenges at keeping up consistent report writing!!:confused1: Thanks for your amazing efforts. PN |
Feedback
more great feedback - many thanks folks.
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as for the presence of big bikes over here - it's an immense country with a massive population, I've heard there are a few large foreign bikes in a couple of the big cities but not many people have come across them. Quote:
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Exploring Shimla
Overlooking the town of Shimla is this huge statue of Hanuman
http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/I...IMG_0236-M.jpg Rather naughtily I angled my camera and managed to get a picture of it seemingly on top of the Anglican Cathedral! http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/I...IMG_0251-M.jpg It's always good to have a break from being on the bikes and a chance to look around The Welcome banners were up http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/I...IMG_0243-M.jpg An unusual combination of Che Guevara and ...hmmm, I'm not sure who the other guy is supposed to be. From this angle, Shimla looks very typical of semi-tropical towns with its corrugated iron roofs. http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/I...IMG_0238-M.jpg But then on closer inspection the mock-tudor buildings and British signs give away its heritage as a British Raj Hill Station http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/L...DSC_0137-M.jpg To be honest, I'm not much of a person for seeing the sights, I prefer the quirkiness of local life in remote places, which is why I took a photo of these guys at work http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/I...IMG_0240-M.jpg They're constructing the platform that they're perched on high above the street http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/I...IMG_0241-M.jpg Some buildings need a bit more than a couple of guys with planks of wood and nails http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/I...IMG_0244-M.jpg Monkeys were everywhere http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/I...IMG_0247-S.jpg http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/I...IMG_0246-S.jpg showing off their athletic leaps and one actually abseiled down a telephone line from the top of the pole, but I wasn't quick enough with my camera for that one. Food being sold on the street - some more familiar than others http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/I...IMG_0257-M.jpg And then back on to the bikes the next morning http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/L...DSC_0077-M.jpg |
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