|
Los Exonerados - a Trip in South America
http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/O...P1030912-L.jpg
It's me again, I know things have been a bit quiet on the Tiffany's Travels front, but my Dad was unwell over the last year and so I spent some time with him and my mum to remind them what a peaceful life they lead the rest of the time! I'm pleased to report that he is making a good recovery and so once more I could look to far horizons. First step was leaving Lands End http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/O...IMG_6117-M.jpg Yep, it's long distance travel with full bike gear and not a bike in sight as I took ferry, train and bus to get to Heathrow and flew out...my final destination being Antofagasta, Northern Chile (that's South America for the geographically challenged) Hmm, Antofagasta, what can I say about it except that it's like Newcastle-Upon-Tyne with palm trees http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/O...IMG_6121-M.jpg and train loads of copper running through the city centre http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/O...IMG_6119-M.jpg It felt so wrong to be flying over the Equator, ever since I started this bike travel lark, I've only ever ridden across it, but needs must, I was heading out on a mission for World of BMW The clues were there..nice riding gear and no Thelma (my R80GS who goes everywhere with me) instead a posh bike parked outside a nice hotel... http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/O...IMG_6124-M.jpg as I get transformed into...Tiffany Coates - Motorcycle Tour Guide:D http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/O...IMG_6126-M.jpg (As opposed to Tiff, the scruffy overlander on a battered machine) http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/M...ygyrstan-S.jpg I'm here in South America for World of BMW, riding the BMW R1200GS to lead a group of 10 riders through northern Chile and Peru. The bike has just over 9,000 miles on it, and not a spot of rust anywhere. I had 48 hours to get my bearings, sort out my paperwork and then await the group. and here are some of my lovely group http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/O...IMG_6129-M.jpg http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/O...IMG_6127-M.jpg http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/O...P1030363-M.jpg The bloke on the truck is Thomas, from Germany originally but living and working in Chile as a motorbike guide and mechanic for Motoaventura Chile. And why is this trip entitled Los Exonerados (the exonerated or excused)?? Because of our manners on the roads we travelled- my apologies to those we came across, especially the toll booth staff attempting to do their jobs on the toll roads of Peru and who did NOT want bikes coming through. I'd ride through after the group and find people shaking their heads at the fact that these ignorant foreigners just don't know what the bike etiquette is in this part of the world. |
Tiffany we like both Tiffany's!
Have really enjoyed your photo's on facebook,looks like you have a little catching up to do here.I have to admit to never hearing of the city either.Regards Noel.
|
Salar de Atacama
WARNING This post could seriously change your life as you look at the pictures and dream of far of places that look as beautiful as this....
A somewhat jet-lagged group set off that first morning, following the straight roads that headed east under a clear blue sky http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/O...P1030373-M.jpg We're in the Atacama Desert, the driest spot on the planet and without a hint of greenery, I've crossed a lot of deserts in my time and it's often surprising how much grows there, but not at the Atacama - a dry, grey landscape stretched away in all directions. breaks to enjoy the view and to grab some snacks, http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/O...P1030365-M.jpg and for me to change my hairstyle to summer riding (some people change their jackets, mine is my hair). We're mostly on the BMW 1200GS with a couple of smaller bikes thrown in for good measure http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/O...P1030374-M.jpg our destination, San Pedro de Atacama a town in the foothills of the Andes, but first we had the Salar de Atacama to cross- a huge expanse of salt flat, not as well-known as its near neighbour the Salar de Uyuni but just as stunning. To our relief, after over 100 miles of dead straight tarmac, the road started to get a few curves in it http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/O...P1030381-M.jpg and there was the Salar in front of us http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/O...P1030401-M.jpg bloody great lumps of salt mixed with hardened clay! Luckily they've made a sort of road across the Salar, not surprisingly it's made of salt, and actually it's quite a good surface to ride on http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/O...P1030405-M.jpg The landscape and scenery is just spectacular http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/O...P1030394-M.jpg The rest of the group arrive and we all get busy with our cameras http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/O...P1030408-M.jpg http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/O...P1030402-M.jpg http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/O...P1030397-M.jpg http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/O...DSC_0439-M.jpg it's not as easy to walk on as it looks http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/O...P1030419-M.jpg I look around at this amazing environment with its breathtaking views...or maybe that's the lack of oxygen, and I just think to myself how bloody lucky I am http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/O...DSC_0380-M.jpg The urge to travel and having a bike really can take you anywhere. |
Catching Up??
Quote:
|
The Tatio Geysers
Having arrived at San Pedro de Atacama after a great day of riding, we set our alarm clocks for the unearthly hour of 4.00am. It's going to be a special day if a rather long one...
We’re going to see one of the Andes Mountains’ best kept secrets, sunrise at the world’s highest geyser fields. The Tatio Geysers http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/O...IMG_6162-M.jpg http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/O...IMG_6155-M.jpg http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/O...IMG_6133-M.jpg As a side issue, I am also testing out the new BMW GS Dry suit, so it was a bit ironic that my initial ride with it was across teh driest desert in the world. however the geysers gave me a chance to try them in the wet as I wandered through http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/O...IMG_6148-M.jpg http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/O...IMG_6150-M.jpg We’re up at 4250 metres, and feeling the effects of the lack of oxygen, it doesn't stop us fooling around a bit http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/O...IMG_6140-M.jpg We pose for pictures as the beams of light cut through the steam, giving an eerie look. The Bolt somehow becomes our team look for the rest of the trip as you'll see. There's some movement and we spot El Zorro...The Fox http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/O...IMG_6159-M.jpg http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/O...IMG_6154-M.jpg I hear splashing and spot some pools http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/O...IMG_6157-M.jpg And although it's a bit chilly in the early morning and and we're at altitude, it doesn't take me long to get in the water as well http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/O...P1030132-M.jpg Followed by a few of my group... http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/O...P1030145-M.jpg The water temperature is like a warm bath with a hot end where the boiling springs enter and a cold end where the freezing snow melt seeps in. |
Valle de la Luna
Having seen the sunrise at the Tatio Geysers, we headed west of town in the afternoon to enjoy the sunset at La Valle de la Luna (Moon Valley)
http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/O...IMG_6230-M.jpg Some gorge riding to get there http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/O...IMG_6175-M.jpg http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/O...IMG_6185-M.jpg Sure enough the landscape started to resemble something you'd see...well not on the moon, maybe on Mars http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/O...IMG_6195-M.jpg It might look like snow which would make for more drama, but actually it's salty deposits Weird rock formations, definitely a lunar feel or maybe Mars http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/O...IMG_6197-M.jpg http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/O...IMG_6198-M.jpg http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/O...IMG_6202-M.jpg http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/O...IMG_6225-M.jpg There are four other women in the group with me, it's always good to have female company in what tends to be a male dominated world. http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/O...IMG_6204-M.jpg http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/O...IMG_6219-M.jpg The valley is an incredible looking place http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/O...IMG_6216-M.jpg http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/O...IMG_6224-M.jpg Lots of volcanoes in this area, though the locals assured me that they're almost all extinct http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/O...IMG_6226-M.jpg We lingered a bit too long in the Valley, taking photos which meant that by the time we made our way back to our hotel, it was rapidly darkening and so we took a short-cut, which turned into a motorbike obstacle course...in the dark http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/O...IMG_6236-M.jpg |
Riding in Chile
Discussing routes, whilst eating crisps.
http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/O...P1030018-M.jpg My meat-eating customers had no problems with tucking into llama kebabs http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/O...IMG_6174-M.jpg I have to confess this was the first llama we saw..:oops2: Roads were tarmac once more http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/O...P1030469-M.jpg No, it's NOT a sign for a brothel but one that indicates the location of the nearest Ladies' Loo. http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/O...P1030464-M.jpg Negotiating with Customs http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/O...P1030462-M.jpg http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/O...P1030461-M.jpg Later keeping an eye on the customers whilst having a break from riding http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/O...DSC_1582-M.jpg the ghost town of Humberstone, first settled in the 1860's then abandoned virtually overnight 100 years later, the place is spooky to walk around, but fascinating. http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/O...IMG_6247-M.jpg The new Word of BMW Support Vehicle:cool4: http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/O...IMG_6242-M.jpg There's so much to see in South America, not least the unusual wildlife, these are vicuna- wild cousins of the llama and alpaca and rarely seen, we were lucky to spot them. http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/O...IMG_6168-M.jpg |
Heading to Peru
Our route was taking us northwards, the coast is fairly desolate with the occasional oceanside shanty towns, the fog made me feel at home
http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/O...P1030454-M.jpg The road was undergoing construction and the bikes managed to get to the front of the queue of vehicles waiting to pass, a clear ride through for us without having to overtake lorries in the dust http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/O...P1030488-M.jpg The first fuel stop in Peru...pulling into the garage for petrol, I discovered that this one provides fuel for bikes and people http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/O...P1030512-M.jpg Half an hour later and the cold beers seemed like a good idea as we rode through a dry and desert-like landscape, http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/O...P1030511-M.jpg It was an environment devoid of any sign of life except the occasional small settlement of shacks like this one, which seem to have no source of water http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/O...P1030507-M.jpg The sign reads "Slow, Dangerous Bends" http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/O...P1030516-M.jpg This guy obviously hadn't paid it any attention http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/O...P1030526-M.jpg It looked fairly recent, so I'd stopped to check if anyone needed help, one of my group stopped as well. Leaving the plateau behind, we started climbing, my GPS Sat Nav, showing the altitude as 4637 metres (over 15,000ft if you're not metric). I can feel the effects, a thumping headache kicks in as my brain is slowly being starved of oxygen. http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/O...P1030523-M.jpg At the higher altitudes we started to see llama flocks alongside the road http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/O...IMG_6250-M.jpg Usually guarded by dogs http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/O...IMG_6253-M.jpg It seems that the dogs are not always as vicious as they might be, this one looked like he'd come straight off the set of a Disney film http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/O...IMG_6252-M.jpg He had guts though as he stood his ground in the middle of the road barking at us on our bikes. Another peril on the roads - you don't need to be fluent in Spanish to understand what's in this tanker http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/O...P1030451-M.jpg More hot springs, but no time to stop for a dip, we've got quite a distance to go today. http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/O...P1030524-M.jpg My entry in the competition to find a picture of the prettiest alpaca award http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/O...IMG_6270-M.jpg We reached Lake Titicaca, the end of our day's journey, it had been a challenging ride but with so many great sights that we'd enjoyed it. http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/O...P1030544-M.jpg The town of Puno which is nestled between the mountains and the lakeside, our GPS led us through the maze of streets. http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/O...P1030542-M.jpg The beautiful view from my window as the sun set. http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/O...IMG_6273-M.jpg |
Lake Titicaca
A day off the bikes, we're at high altitude, 4500m (nearly 15,000ft) we need some time to acclimatise and to take in our surroundings.The group head out to the Uros islands - incredible floating reed islands on Lake Titicaca, legend has it that the tribes on them chose to move to islands that float so that they could escape from their war-like neighbours hundreds of years ago.
I wave them off from the bank http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/O...P1030537-M.jpg Everything is made of reeds including furniture, houses and of course boats http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/O...DSC_0834-M.jpg I visited the islands myself several years ago, they really are an incredible place, this is one of the scenes that I missed out on! They're up to no good on the islands http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/O...s%20Bolt-M.jpg One of many great meals we had http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/O...P1030439-M.jpg |
The Altiplano
Time to leave the Lake behind, we're now crossing the Altiplano, it's a high altitude plateau that covers a vast area in South America.
We left town as a group and a few miles further on as I look over my shoulder, this is my view of them riding behind me http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/O...%20large-M.jpg Ahead, the traffic is light including this guy who is perilously weaving around with a bicycle on the back of his scooter http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/O...P1030565-M.jpg He was esasier to overtake than these guys, four trucks in convoy. all with giant tyres on them http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/O...P1030556-M.jpg As she rides behind me, Simona takes a pic- it's one of those photos that goes in the category of "Don't tell my Mum" as I'm riding one handed taking the photos http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/O...P1030570-M.jpg We're well and truly in the Andean Highlands, where people are in traditional clothing and llamas are everywhere, even harrassing motorbikes. :innocent: http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/O...P1030569-M.jpg I preferred the look of this little one http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/O...P1030573-M.jpg http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/O...P1030593-M.jpg Some people get closer to them than others http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/O...P1030598-M.jpg A short break for an empanada - South America's answer to the pasty http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/O...DSC_0657-M.jpg At the garage as I was getting petrol, these two came over for a closer look at the bike http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/O...P1030586-M.jpg with the shorter one asking if he could sit on it http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/O...P1030587-M.jpg To my relief he was unable to get it off the side-stand. And then they left, without asking for a single bribe- my first ever encounter with Peruvian police where no money was demanded. Soon after the garage, we caught up with THOSE lorries again, no chance of getting past as they managed to gridlock a whole town whilst each lorry negotiated its way through the narrow streets. http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/O...P1030599-M.jpg Our destination for the day - Cusco, party central for South America and an amazing town in itself, and a place I consider my home from home in this part of the world. http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/O...IMG_6275-M.jpg |
Cusco
Cusco is a city with the most incredible history, the Incas called it the navel of the world as it was so central to their whole civilisation. History is evident even where the walls are crumbling
http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/O...P1030610-M.jpg One of my favourite signs on this trip http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/O...P1030614-M.jpg Sotheby's selling in the Peruvian Highlands?? Processions are everywhere http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/O...P1030617-M.jpg Even coming out of the Irish pub http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/O...IMG_6301-M.jpg Random images from Cusco http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/O...IMG_6278-M.jpg plenty of ancient looking stuff. http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/O...IMG_6300-M.jpg Doesn't it put you off your bacon? http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/O...IMG_6302-M.jpg The group strike a pose http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/O...P1030612-M.jpg There's a lot to do in Cusco, shopping is a bit different from home http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/O...IMG_6305-M.jpg And then in the evenings there's often more choice, I was pleased to see Mama Africa's was still going strong (notorious Cusco night spot) though looking at other venues, a night like the one promised on this poster maybe takes a braver person than me http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/O...IMG_6312-M.jpg A United Nations of bars and restaurants are on offer, obviously as a bike traveller there's ony one place I CAN go and drink... Norton Rats Tavern http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/O...IMG_6320-M.jpg It's a pub dedicated to motorbike travellers and one I always go to when I'm in town, since first getting to know the owner Jeff, on my first visit some time ago. Jeff was out of town (he's creating an incredible hotel for bike travellers in the north of Peru) but his wife and the staff made us welcome, it's been quite a few years since my last visit so to catch up I browsed through the Visitors' Book, I came across a veritable Who's Who in the World of bike travellers, amongst them, Lois Pryce's entry. I remember that date whilst she was in the Bar I was on the other side of the continent in Brazil http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/O...P1030624-M.jpg Friends' stickers cover the door- and here is Savas's sticker- the guy I met in LA and two days later was crossing Mexico with him on his KLR, having put it in my name at the DMV (long story involving the police but nothing illegal) and on a purely friends basis. http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/O...IMG_6314-M.jpg Dining options are numerous, I was disappointed to discover that the Hare Krishna Govinda restaurant wasn't there any more, but luckily I managed to track it down on a different side street- one of Peru's very few veggie restaurants outside of the major cities. While I tucked into tofu and veggies, my group were elsewhere enjoying delicacies such as this dish... guinea pig legs http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/O...IMG_6321-M.jpg To prove we were taking in some of the culture while in the historic city of Cusco, we dd some sight-seeing http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/O...o%20Bolt-M.jpg Tempting though life in Cusco is, time to move on, the mountains and my bike are calling to me http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/O...P1030667-M.jpg |
Leaving Cusco
Dragging ourselves away from the myriad of delights that Cusco has to offer, we loaded up the bikes and headed off,
http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/O...P1030635-M.jpg the bridge to Pisac has been washed out so we took a different route which actually turned out to be even better (or at least, more fun!) http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/O...P1030683-M.jpg I met these kids whilst on a minor track, they're guarding the sheep http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/O...P1030684-M.jpg Inevitably this happened... http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/O...P1030685-M.jpg tucking into some street food http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/O...P1030641-M.jpg But you're never alone for long when you eat in public in Peru http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/O...P1030642-M.jpg lots of smiles wherever we went http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/O...P1030652-M.jpg I got some plait tips from her friends http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/O...P1030651-M.jpg Guinea pigs enjoying the luxury of life in a maisonette http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/O...P1030648-M.jpg However, it's not a happy ending for them, their des res is actually located in the kitchen, rather handily placed right next to the cooker http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/O...P1030650-M.jpg |
Hi Tiffany,
Always enjoy your travel tale writing style. Heading that way in 2014 so noting your tips with interest. Good to hear your dad is in a better way. Cheers Paul |
Quote:
|
Valle Sagrado - Sacred Valley
The Sacred Valley (Valle Sagrado) covers a huge area with a lot of great riding possibilities, it's been a while since my last visit, but I can always find some good off-roading, this time though, I've got to ensure my group can handle it. While they're not around I do a bit of scouting, using my usual system of camera on self-time mode, propped up on my helmet which is perched on a rock
http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/O...IMG_6361-M.jpg Checking out the gravel roads http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/O...371small-M.jpg In the distance I see something that looks like lots of guano on the mountainside http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/O...669small-M.jpg Naturally I go closer to check it out http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/O...P1030670-M.jpg it turns out to be a load of salt pans on the steep-sided mountain, apparently they've been collecting salt in this way for centuries since pre-Inca times A mineral-laden spring comes out of the mountain and the locals have directed the flow over a series of terraced salt pans, as each pan dries out the salt residue is left and they scrape it up. http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/O...P1030673-M.jpg I now decide to get really close http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/O...P1030678-M.jpg |
From Llamas to Gridlock
Leaving the salt pans behind, I make my way up a steep gravel track, naturally it's narrow and naturally (as I'm in Peru) there are pick-up trucks and vans coming the opposite way at silly speeds and some are just parked. I hold my nerve and keep to the edge, trying to avoid looking down the vertiginous drop - safety barriers??
http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/O...P1030691-M.jpg Still in the Sacred Valley, I make a few friends http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/O...P1030585-M.jpg and get a bit closer http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/O...P1030582-M.jpg I feel that this is very brave for someone who once ran away from an anteater. Along the road, I spot some of my group having a picnic break whilst enjoying the view, I stop to see what I can scrounge from them http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/O...c%20stop-M.jpg Enjoying the hairpin bends, I take several over my shoulder random shots with my camera, often just getting a picture of my plaits flying behind me and if I'm lucky a fellow rider in the background. this photo shocked me... http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/O...P1030655-M.jpg I think those are a couple of grey hairs I can see in my plaits http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/O...P1030705-M.jpg and then we hit gridlock, we went past the trucks and cars to find this at the front http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/O...IMG_6412-M.jpg We resign ourselves to a wait http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/O...IMG_6413-M.jpg the truck driver is very sweet, he manages to reverse a bit, and once there's a small gap, waves us through http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/O...IMG_6417-M.jpg smiles all round, we're through http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/O...IMG_6416-M.jpg Until we realise that a pillion passenger has gone walkabout...I wait with her partner, and unfortunately we're rapidly swallowed up by the gridlock again http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/O...IMG_6419-M.jpg After a while, I come up with Plan B, which is remove the cases, carry them through (it's literally only 200 metres) and we'll then be able to squeeze between a couple of trucks http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/O...IMG_6420-M.jpg leave the cases somewhere safe http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/O...IMG_6421-M.jpg and then of course, everything started to move and we were scurrying back to the bikes, and trying to retrieve the cases as the other traffic went past. We managed it, as usual, lots of smiles from those around us - I could just imagine them thinking you can always rely on those mad foreigners to provide entertainment. the reason there's so much gridlock in this obscure village is easy to explain, it's the last stop on the Sacred Valley Railway before getting to this place, which needs no explanation (but which deserves a post to itself) http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/O...IMG_6443-M.jpg |
The Big One - Macchu Pichu
Possibly the most eagerly anticipated sight in South America- Lost City of the Incas...Macchu Pichu
We were staying in a village called Ollantaytambo, last train station on the track. We had an early morning start and wandered down to the station to see our train waiting. Almost all the tourists arriving at Macchu Pichu do so by train - it's still an isolated citadel perched on a mountain top, they have yet to put in a motorway!!! Peru Railway's finest http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/O...IMG_6422-M.jpg Not wanting to miss any of the scenery http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/O...IMG_6424-M.jpg We had seats near the front and so had a great view http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/O...IMG_6436-M.jpg Sometimes, you don't always want a good view when you see this approaching and you know that it's a single track rail line... http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/O...IMG_6431-M.jpg There was seatside service http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/O...IMG_6432-M.jpg We got off the train, onto a bus, then climbed a hill, rounded the corner... http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/O...IMG_6448-M.jpg http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/O...IMG_6497-M.jpg and there it was http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/O...%20small-M.jpg It's been quite a few years since I last made it here - that was on foot after five days of walking and camping on my own. (Hmm, maybe I should see if I can find one of my old photos from that trip and scan it to reproduce here) this time, I've got the group with me and things have been smartened up a bit. http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/O...IMG_6482-M.jpg My Dad upon seeing this next picture, enquired if I was in a Knobbly Knee Competition. http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/O...IMG_6508-M.jpg Lots of stone walls... http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/O...DSC_1616-M.jpg http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/O...IMG_6505-M.jpg Llamas have been introduced, http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/O...IMG_6462-M.jpg but were a bit over-friendly at times http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/O...IMG_6484-M.jpg this shot would make a great caption competition http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/O...IMG_6473-M.jpg There's a small tropical garden area, where we were lucky enough to spot a hummingbird http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/O...DSC_1654-M.jpg Towards the end, I was getting a bit tired http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/O...IMG_6480-M.jpg A final goodbye from us all as we left this incredible place http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/O...DSC_1489-L.jpg |
Leaving Macchu Pichu
Time to leave, we were booked on the last train out of the station so we headed down the hill to Aguas Calientes to get the train. We stopped for a drink, when suddenly there was a lot of noise out in the street. I stepped outside to see what was happening and this was the scene that met my eyes
http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/O...IMG_6510-M.jpg A brightly dressed band and some bizarre dancers on the roof. http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/O...IMG_6512-M.jpg http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/O...IMG_6515-M.jpg It got even more surreal on the train when the friendly host was replaced by this http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/O...IMG_6516-M.jpg and then the music started up and he was dancing and clapping along, and before we knew it a fashion show started in the train aisle. http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/O...IMG_6523-M.jpg This is all going to make British Rail seem very tame when I get back to England. |
A Tour Guide's Life is not a Glamorous One
The following day found us saying goodbye to Ollantaytambo, I was suffering, oooh was I suffering, having somehow picked up food poisoning - yes, Miss Coates, Queen of the Iron Stomach was battling some nasty bacteria and oh dear the results were not pretty. You don't need photos, but I think you might get the picture when I say that I couldn't keep the Imodium (Lomotil) down to treat certain symptoms because I was vomiting so much. I warned my group, as I knew they would be following me along. lots of sympathy from them, sweeties that they are. The good news is that because I'm the only vegetarian I was the only one who got sick..dodgy quinoa dish.
I set off riding very gingerly. And of course it turned out to be one of those days when there are lots of bends and curves, luckily, focusing on my riding took my mind off the pain, vomiting and worse! I even managed to take a couple of pictures, http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/O...P1030704-M.jpg I was last to leave the hotel, and when I stopped at a police checkpoint 55kms down the road I asked the officers about the other bikes- only to be told that NO bikes had been through that morning. Oh great, not only am I feeling ill but now my whole group has got lost! I wasn't in a fit state to go looking- not sure where I'd start to look as the Andes mountains are a pretty big area!! Finally my faster riders caught me up - with sheepish excuses about their lack of route finding. http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/O...P1030700-M.jpg Coming up is a picture of the rubbish-strewn layby that I... no, no, no actually I just really needed to pull over and ... sleep. I'd been riding for several hours, feeling awful and having to really concentrate on my riding, not only was it cold and rainy but we were at altitude, attempting to overtake unpredictable lorries on twisty roads, crossing mountain passes. I was exhausted and knew I needed to sleep. I promised myself that as soon as the altitude had dropped to 3000m or less (about 10,000ft) AND the temperature had risen to 10 degrees, I would stop somewhere, anywhere. It seemed to take forever as I kept glancing at the screen (on board computer!!) to check altitude and temperature, finally those magical figures were reached and I started to look around. eventually a layby appeared and I pulled over. http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/O...P1030694-M.jpg Minutes later one of my fellow riders came past, I gave him a thumbs up to let him know everything was OK and then as soon as he was out of sight, I pulled off my helmet, and lay down on the ground in full bike gear and thermal balaclava with my gloves tucked under my head, within minutes, despite the steady rain that was pouring I fell asleep. Not the deepest sleep in the world, I think a part of me was conscious of the vehicles going past on the road just feet away. But I slept for a good half hour, and woke up feeling refreshed just as the sound of GS engines were coming down the hill. I jumped to my feet and was able to smile and wave to them whilst rubbing my eyes and shaking the rain off me. The GS Dry suit proved its worth, I was still dry. I changed my balaclava for a dry one and was soon back on the road and catching them up. Our hotel that night was a collection of cabanas beside a river, with its own chapel complete with, well, take a look for yourselves http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/O...P1030695-M.jpg I wasn't hallucinating, those ARE peacocks on the roof of the chapel. http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/O...P1030696-M.jpg The next day feeling better, I start looking around me a bit more. http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/O...DSC_0463-M.jpg As we'll be leaving the mountains soon, I'm wondering if I have space for some souvenirs in my tank bag... http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/O...P1030575-M.jpg |
Mountain Life
Back to those mountain roads with llamas waiting at every sharp bend
http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/O...P1030720-M.jpg The front riders had pulled up at a small restaurant perched on a mountain-side with several lorries out front. Inside it had a somewhat unusual décor http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/O...P1030752-M.jpg Notice the moth-eaten, bedraggled baby flamingo suspended from the ceiling http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/O...P1030753-M.jpg And then we peeked in the kitchen http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/O...P1030746-M.jpg Where's TheReaper? he can usually be relied upon to comment on all things health and safety in the catering departments. Then look a bit more closely and you'll spot the eagle which appears to be supervising the culinary preparations http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/O...P1030747-M.jpg http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/O...P1030750-M.jpg |
The Road to Nasca
Back on the road, fuelling up
http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/O...P1030769-M.jpg Tuk tuks everywhere we looked in some towns, this is something else that's relatively new over here. Some great mountain roads that I was able to enjoy now that my sickness was well and truly past. http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/O...IMG_6553-M.jpg The landscape is starting to change http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/O...P1030797-M.jpg Cactus are lurking on every bend and the air has got drier. The temperature is rising, on this particular day it went from 2 degrees centigrade to 26 degrees. In the distance a large shape was looming...Cerro Blanco, getting closer it's easier to make out that it's the tallest sand dune in the world. http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/O...IMG_6547-M.jpg I've travelled this road twice previously and both times didn't see the dune due to misty conditions. I was waiting for my group to catch up and so decided to take a selfy with the dune in the background http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/O...IMG_6541-M.jpg The angle doesn't always come out right in a self-timed picture and you can barely see the dune. This was the best shot out of several that I tried (above), as you can see from the following sequence of shots. after I press the self-time button and I'm scrambling to get onto the small rock in the foreground and smile nicely for the camera http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/O...IMG_6542-M.jpg http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/O...IMG_6543-M.jpg http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/O...IMG_6544-M.jpg Back up on the road and I'm there as the others rode past and I got photos as they cornered or slowed down http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/O...IMG_6548-M.jpg http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/O...IMG_6553-M.jpg I took off after them, one of those days when the riding is just fantastic and everyone is grinning from ear to ear at the amazing surroundings, great twisty roads and lack of traffic. http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/O...IMG_6574-M.jpg |
Life in Nasca
That evening we were buzzing in the bar, it had been such an exhilarating ride on those great mountain roads, smooth tarmac, almost no traffic, dry conditions and great curves. We also had a birthday to celebrate
http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/O...IMG_6578-M.jpg Peruvian Birthday Cake- - we went for large and Kevin the Geordie was delighted. We toasted him with wine and pisco sours. We'd arrived in Nasca, a dusty desert town with a major draw for tourists...the incredible lines in the desert. Best viewed from the air, I've seen them before, so packed everyone off to the airport to go up in light aircraft. They came back full of awe at the immense size of the designs and much talk was had about how they were created. Errm, I didn't actually get the photos from the others of the lines, but I'm sure someone could find one and post it up here to show those who don't know, what I'm talking about. Meanwhile, it has got very hot and as it's a rest day (once I'd done my paperwork) I grabbed a cold beer and did what any sensible person would do http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/O...IMG_6584-M.jpg I retired to the pool and took part in another knobbly knee competition!!! |
Dawn in the Desert
An early start found us bleary-eyed (or was that just the drinks from the night before?), in the hotel's rather rustic looking garage, getting the bikes out
http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/O...P1030819-M.jpg The streets were quiet http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/O...P1030820-M.jpg as we headed out http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/O...P1030821-M.jpg http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/O...P1030822-M.jpg The cactus on the edge of town standing sentinel http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/O...P1030798-M.jpg along a straight road http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/O...P1030828-M.jpg And into the desert itself http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/O...P1030827-M.jpg Where the waves of the Pacific wash up against the sand of the Nasca Desert http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/O...P1030825-M.jpg The early start had given us some respite from the intense heat and also meant the desert itself looked beautiful in the early light soon after dawn. We were headed south with the Pacific Ocean on our right. Further on, the road started climbing http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/O...P1030831-M.jpg As we approached a series of incredible cliffs with a great road carved into the side, hundreds of feet above the ocean. In a motorcyclist's life a great road is one with curves, smooth tarmac and little other traffic. http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/O...P1030838-M.jpg We caught up with each other at various viewpoints http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/O...P1030843-M.jpg |
Cliff Top Tales
taking the coast road from Nasca to Arequipa
http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/O...P1030835-M.jpg It takes all sorts to take part in a journey like this, and a weird sense of humour always helps http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/O...P1030841-M.jpg http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/O...844small-M.jpg http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/O...848small-M.jpg having been in the deserts, salt lake and mountains for quite a while we were making the most of every opportunity to get photos of our bikes with the sea in the background http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/O...851small-M.jpg some great curves http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/O...P1030836-M.jpg http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/O...849small-M.jpg A friendly fuel stop http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/O...856small-L.jpg which stretched out to be an impromptu picnic lunch stop as more arrived http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/O...861small-M.jpg http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/O...859small-M.jpg http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/O...865small-M.jpg and the name of the garage... http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/O...858small-M.jpg yep Virgen del Buen Paso which has a number of translations, including the Good Step Virgin or the Virgin of the Good Way. Take your pick, it certainly makes a change from Shell or Esso. |
Tiffany some wonderful photo's,and great commentary ,so how does the tour thing work do you say "this is where you are tonight this is where you should be,this is the road you need to take to get there?"I know that riding with groups can be a sort out ,as there are old fossel's like me with 35years riding behind them and new chums who some times worry me.Thanks again Noel.
|
Coast to Volcano
The dry and desolate cliff roads were occasionally punctuated by lush green valleys where various rivers had cut through the landscape. Every inch of the valley floor was cultivated to make the most of the water - a scarcity in this arid part of the continent.
http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/O...853small-M.jpg A vivid splash of colour. We would descend down to the valley floor, cross over the river on a bridge and then go up the other side, heading south throughout. http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/O...850small-M.jpg Finally in the distance, we saw this welcome sight http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/O...866small-M.jpg No, not the bushttp://d26ya5yqg8yyvs.cloudfront.net/yelrotflmao.gif the volcano beyond it http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/O...867small-M.jpg another one that I was assured is not currently active, it's called Misti (Putina) and last erupted in 1985, hmm, not actually extinct then in my reckoning. |
Tour Questions...
Quote:
I'm pleased to hear you're enjoying this chapter of my travelling life, and I know there are often questions about riding with a company, there are a lot of HUBBers who have experienced a tour with a company and would not have it any other way, making the most of the vast experience and resources of an established operator who has put in the years of preparation and research. The various tour companies operate in quite different ways. GlobeBusters and World of BMW, whom I did this particular trip with have quite a distinct way of working. Ride your own ride, you are not expected to ride as a group at all, you can choose your own departure time each morning and where you want to stop during the day for meals, photo stops, looking at ruins, landscapes and villages etc. As you've suggested above, for each day the riders have all the information given to them in advance such as the hotel details and address, waypoint for GPS and also route notes which reflect the best way of getting there, taking in good riding routes and interesting points along the way. In this way, each person can ride at their own pace to reach that day's destination whether it's Samarkand, Nairobi or Everest Base Camp. :funmeteryes: Within the group most riders find kindred spirits to ride with, such as those who share a similar riding style and speed. As you've mentioned, there are lots of different riding styles, generally the group will ride in twos and threes with the occasional lone wolf who joins in for lunch stops etc. It''s easy enough to spot fellow travellers' bikes parked at a hacienda, tea shop or street-side food stand and pull up to join them. Naturally there is also the option of riding with me :scooter:or whoever the guide/s may be, a chance to ride and see the roads through our eyes and with our experience, the opportunity to take advantage of the best spot to get a picture of you and your bike with a spectacular mountain in the background, rounding the steepest of curves, spotting the first yaks of the expedition, the quirkiest of eating places etc. It's pretty much take your pick of how you ride each day.:D I know that not all companies operate in this way, it's a good issue to ask about in advance. I hope this has answered your question, feel free to ask anything else you're curious about. |
Arequipa
We'd ridden a long way that day along the coastal road and finally with Misti Volcano in our sights we had arrived at the legendary city of Arequipa - the White City. We'd battled through the traffic, roadworks and general chaos to find our hotel.
And then there was one more job for me to do... One of my tasks as guide is finding suitable secure parking - oh yes, it's not just Thelma to worry about, on a trip like this 10 top notch BMW bikes need a bit more security than my 22 year old warhorse. I find an enclosed parking area, negotiate with the attendant - they enjoy the fact that a) despite all these blokes, a woman is negotiating b) my Brit accent when speaking in Spanish they're not so fond of my keen nose for a bargain, after so many years of travelling on a miniscule budget, I don't go for soft deals. Then I direct and help get the bikes squeezed into the smallest area possible, in some of these towns, space is at a premium and we have to pack the bikes in quite tightly. http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/O...868small-M.jpg Bikes parked and safe, I headed back to the hotel where the group were already relaxing over a few beers They had taken over the hotel reception area (and what an amazing hotel) http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/O...870small-M.jpg Bike gear everywhere, we sat back and shared ride tales and photos from the day http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/O...871small-M.jpg As the sun finished setting, I took some photos from the hotel rooftop terrace before heading out for dinner http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/O...875small-M.jpg The volcano looks peaceful enough so maybe we won't be woken by a midnight eruption. The restaurant was great, it's a carnivore's paradise, numerous different types of meat are served on red hot griddles that are spitting hot fat so they dished out bibs for all. http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/O...889small-M.jpg http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/O...893small-M.jpg Ostrich, llama, alpaca and other exotic meats were on offer, as the meat eaters tucked in, http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/O...883small-M.jpg I was actually enjoying one of the finest meals I'd had this whole trip, yep, the meaty place did good veggie food as wellhttp://d26ya5yqg8yyvs.cloudfront.net/clap.gifhttp://d26ya5yqg8yyvs.cloudfront.net/clap.gif |
Back to Chile
Early morning Arequipa and all is peaceful. Which is good as we have a complicated route through the one way system to negotiate and sometimes it's just a lot simpler to go down the wrong way...simpler?? sometimes it's impossible to find your destination without doing something like that
http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/O...897small-M.jpg These colonial places seem to share an aversion to tarmac. Out of town, not a cloud in the sky, so a good day for riding, we head up some steep hills I enjoy looking at the graphics that are used on signs in other countries http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/O...898small-M.jpg On this one, the car reminds me of the Anthill Mob car in the Wacky Races cartoon http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/O...899small-M.jpg Crossing the desert that surrounds Arequipa, we see more of these shanty towns, ramshackle huts scattered in small settlements on the dry earth. http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/O...909small-M.jpg Again we see the importance of the small rivers that flow here, they are the only source of greenery. Approaching this river valley there is also a splash of colour on the ground http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/O...904small-M.jpg Something is scattered, drying in the sun http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/O...901small-M.jpg Even this close, I'm still not sure what it is...maybe chillies? http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/O...903small-M.jpg |
For you Tiffany
The Players in "Perils": The Ant Hill Mob - YouTube
Tiffany thanks for taking the time to give such a detailed explanation ,I think if i was on a trip as such that would be my preferred option. |
Almost there..
Quote:
|
Farewell and Adios
Our last day of riding continued without mishap, we crossed the border together and lined up for a final picture with the bikes.
http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/O...ine%20up-M.jpg We got to the hotel, I unloaded all my stuff off the bike, I had quite a bit to carry. I looked at the distance from reception to the rooms and decided I would walk it once and only once, so, loaded down like a packhorse off I set through the hotel grounds http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/O...%20carry-M.jpg What felt like hours later, I was still looking for my room http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/O...arry%202-M.jpg Having reached the sanctuary of my room the call went out that all the bikes needed to be taken to a rendezvous with a lorry at a truck stop. We gathered at the front entrance and checked our paperwork, whoopshttp://d26ya5yqg8yyvs.cloudfront.net/eek7.gif someone had "lost" their registration documents, it was decided that the offending document must be at the Customs office. He, who will remain nameless and I set off re-tracing our steps to the border. With me doing the translating, whilst masquerading as his wife (sometimes it makes life easier) we searched and asked at every office at the border post but all in vain. We then had to find the others and rode off across town in search of the truckstop. We arrived to find all the bikes were loaded, and had to rush to get our bikes on, this being South America, there was no formal loading ramp, just a sandy bank which the lorry had reversed up to. Our final few minutes on the bikes involved some fun in the sand. http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/O...915small-M.jpg With the bikes on the lorry, we squeezed into taxis, heading to our hotel, and more importantly the hotel bar http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/O...916small-M.jpg Straight to the Bar, do not pass Go http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/O...922small-M.jpg http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/O...923small-M.jpg The weariness was there, but celebrations over mojitos and martinis brought a smile to faces http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/O...918small-M.jpg The moon had risen, glimpsed between the canvas tarps above our heads http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/O...921small-M.jpg and we were still sharing riding stories Until the call went out, the final bike had to be loaded onto the pick up truck, so several of us trooped outside and got to grips http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/O...927small-M.jpg Attempting to be careful after a few beers http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/O...928small-M.jpg Almost there http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/O...929small-M.jpg A cigar to finish off with and a flamethrower disguised as a Peruvian lighter to light it! http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/O...935small-M.jpg And there you have it folks, My short sojourn in South America with a great group of riders. Early the next morning I waved them off, we were in the town of Arica, Surf Capital of Chile and I had arranged to stay on for an extra day... unfortunately the camera with the photos from my surf escapades is in the cupboard at GlobeBusters HQ, so you'll have to take my word for it. I hope you've enjoyed this RR, I had a lot of fun riding it. I'll finish with a picture from one of my favourite days of riding http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/O...%20small-L.jpg |
Thanks for sharing Tiffany ,Must be a bit of a downer ,the first couple of weeks after a trip like that ,or do you just jump into the next project?Any hoo will keep an eye out for future travels.Take care Noel
|
The Boomerang Effect
You've got it in one Noel!:D
Already well on the way with planning my next trip and actually setting off next month. The South America trip was a paid stint and not my own travels. Also due to other work commitments, I have been back for a while and it took me some time to get this blog uploaded, so I've had more than a chance to catch my breath and cast my eye over my world atlas! Slimbo is doing a scoop on my next travels on his radio show, tomorrow evening Thursday 7pm to 8pm UK time, he is interviewing me and will be telling people on air where I'm next headed BIKERfm - It's More Than Just Music! so all tune in, you can ask your own questions as well and lets see if we can mention HU as well. |
Tiffany i found away around the bloody blocking of bikerfm so will listen in.Ahh missed it thursday did not register .
|
| All times are GMT +1. The time now is 06:00. |