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Good stuff Tiff!
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Name that Fruit
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Below that are melons and small mangoes - all delicious :clap: Quite often I come across fruit that I'm not familiar with and then I ask the stallholders how to eat them. |
The lychees/mangoes i was familiar with the melons were a bit of a guess ,is it a type of rock melon?
Thanks for the reply Noel:D |
Last Chance to Vote
Great excitement in the Coates household - one of my Madagascar photos has been shortlisted for the HU Calendar.
Voting closes tomorrow, please vote for me if you like my picture, it's this one http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/M...IMG_7708-M.jpg You can vote for it on this page http://www.horizonsunlimited.com/hub...inners-75142-2 My picture is the second to last photo - so trawl through to the bottom. Naturally there are a lot of extremely good pictures featured, and I'm flattered to be amongst them. Thank you to all those who have voted for me - it is much appreciated. |
A Sombre Moment
I wandered around town and on the outskirts I spotted this tranquil place
http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/M...IMG_8907-M.jpg http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/M...IMG_8906-M.jpg The sign out front http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/M...IMG_8900-M.jpg It's the final resting place of Commonwealth Soldiers who died here during the Second World War, I found out a bit more about this remote part of the planet which had become embroiled in battle scenes that I mostly associated with Europe, the Far East and North Africa. This is one of the few places south of the equator that saw action including some Japanese midget submarines which entered the harbour . I wandered around the cemetary, which is beautifully maintained, reading the inscriptions and feeling for these young men who had died a long way from home. The Welsh Fusilier http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/M...IMG_8908-M.jpg The African Corporal http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/M...IMG_8902-M.jpg And the Belgian Soldier http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/M...IMG_8904-M.jpg And placed flowers on this Trooper's grave. http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/M...IMG_8910-M.jpg __________________ |
The Beautiful North
I went further afield exploring along the coastline on some dirt tracks to blow the cobwebs away.
http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/M...IMG_8929-L.jpg The track eroded away through the soft dirt of the ground http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/M...IMG_8957-M.jpg It was fun to ride http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/M...IMG_8953-M.jpg I reached the coast once more http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/M...IMG_8895-M.jpg Leaving Suzi the bike in the shade next to a cafe I headed out across the bay in a boat http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/M...IMG_8894-M.jpg The sea is a beautiful colour and so incredibly clear. http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/M...IMG_8879-M.jpg We stopped at an island where the boat guy caught some fish http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/M...IMG_8882-M.jpg which within minutes were on a plate ready to eat http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/M...IMG_8883-M.jpg I skipped the fish, but had a couple of beers, this is the woman who cooked the fish http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/M...IMG_8884-M.jpg The deckhand had a nap in the shade under the sail http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/M...IMG_8890-M.jpg On the way back, I persuaded the boat man to stop so that I could have a swim. http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/M...IMG_8893-M.jpg |
Into the North East
Follow the yellow van - by Madagascan standards, this van still has plenty of space for more luggage.
http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/M...IMG_8961-M.jpg I'm heading towards the Vanilla Coast in the North East I pause to have a chat with a guy running a motorbike repair place - not quite how they look back home, but he seemed to know what he was doing. http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/M...IMG_8968-M.jpg Suzi was kept parked overnight in the hotel reception http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/M...IMG_8967-M.jpg The guys cheered when I rode out straight down the steps - I have to admit I may have looked more confident than I felt, I can't stand it when I know my feet can't reach the ground at all. The road started to deteriorate and the traffic became more rural http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/M...IMG_8965-M.jpg I hadn't been on dirt for a while, so it was a welcome sight http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/M...IMG_8984-M.jpg But the ominous sight of clouds was not quite so welcome, I was reaching the area I'd been warned about and the last thing I needed was the rain and mud as I tackled these hills http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/M...IMG_8980-M.jpg I bought some fresh bread from the baker - he was on his rounds through the remote villages and was delighted to have a foreign customer in the middle of nowhere. http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/M...IMG_8969-M.jpg |
Life on the Road
Breakfast was the usual noodle soup type dish with milky tea, sunshine and good company in the form of this schoolgirl who spoke good french
http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/M...IMG_8971-M.jpg And at my feet, pecking up any bits that I dropped... http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/M...IMG_8970-M.jpg Daisy Duck - destined for the stew pot in the not too distant future according to her owner. Congestion on the road caused by this pig having a bath and not wanting to move http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/M...IMG_8974-M.jpg This photo was taken by the guy guarding a broken down pick up truck, he'd been there 24 hours already when I saw him. http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/M...IMG_8973-M.jpg The weather changed dramatically from the sun to grey clouds and rain Having grappled with mud in the rain (and been so miserable with it I did NOT stop to take pictures), I paused at this village http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/M...IMG_8983-M.jpg I realised my rear tyre was very soft and so I got my pump out (Thom, you might recognise the pump!) The guys were all very intrigued and so I let them take over http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/M...IMG_8981-M.jpg http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/M...IMG_8982-M.jpg I pushed on hard for the final part of the day's ride- there's nothing like the thought of a cold beer as motivation... http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/M...IMG_8990-M.jpg And I'd once more reached the coastline - looking somewhat worse for wear after yet another bloody tough day. http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/M...IMG_8988-L.jpg |
Coastal Living
Now where was I? Oh yes, sat on a beautiful beach, enjoying the view whilst sipping a cold beer - life feels good despite my aching muscles, and at least I'm clean as I also had a shower - many of these hard days end with no shower at all, just a dip in the sea or a river if I'm lucky.
The fishermen are paddling past on their way home http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/M...IMG_8993-M.jpg http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/M...IMG_8997-M.jpg My dinner arrives - tomato salad and chips.. the life of a vegetarian http://d26ya5yqg8yyvs.cloudfront.net/icon10.gif http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/M...IMG_8991-M.jpg I went for a stroll through the village and met this little boy, who shyly showed me his homemade boat - constructed from a discarded flip flop, twigs and leaves http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/M...IMG_9002-M.jpg He demonstrated how well it floated http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/M...IMG_9001-M.jpg And I went with him downstream where he and his friends were racing them- using the gentle breeze blowing in from the ocean. http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/M...IMG_9000-M.jpg |
Bliss
I was getting some enjoyment out of spotting the school crossing signs, they seem to vary a lot from one town to the next - and at the risk of sounding a bit weird, I ended up with a folder of photos showing the different signs (a bit like my folder of photos of different cow signs in Latin America - when you travel on your own and there's no one to talk to...)
Here they look... http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/M...IMG_8987-M.jpg In this village I'm expecting to see people with short stumpy legs and elbows that don't bend. While here http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/M...IMG_9009-M.jpg Even the kids have quiffs and the adults have abnormally long arms. In the real world I was meeting guys like this http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/M...IMG_8978-L.jpg He's 86 and runs the village shop in a place where the houses look like this http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/M...IMG_9006-M.jpg That's the posh end of the village, this is mostly what the houses looked like http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/M...IMG_9007-M.jpg he has run the shop every day for the last 50 years, he took over from his father-in-law, his wife died 16 years ago. I drank a soft drink with him (no electricity so it was warm from the shelf, after he had wiped the dust off the bottle) and gave him some of my wasabi peas - an acquired taste, especially for someone living in the middle of nowhere in northern Madagascar. He said he'd never tasted anything like them and shared them with his great-nephew who had come along to check I wasn't there to mug the old guy. Back to my journey, 6.15am and the view from my shack looks like this http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/M...IMG_8996-M.jpg The morning rush hour started up... http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/M...IMG_8994-M.jpg |
If it Moves - Take a Photo
My favourite pig picture- the sow was wallowing on her side just enjoying the mud and the piglets kept pushing at her for milk, even trying to suckle on the teats that were submerged, as usual this is in the middle of the road.
http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/M...IMG_8975-M.jpg I picked up a hithhiker http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/M...IMG_9031-M.jpg It took a liking to my Cornish flag http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/M...IMG_9030-M.jpg I coudn't find anyone who would confirm that they eat snails in Madagascar -a s a former french colony I think they are missing out on these extra large snails. More over-loaded vans, crammed with people and luggage, the guy hnging out the back is the conductor and money collector and laso acts as the rear view mirror, calling through to the driver when I was overtaking http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/M...IMG_9015-M.jpg I reached the coastal town of Antalaha on the Vanilla Coast - riding the roads, the air is full of the scent of the vanilla and clove plantations. http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/M...IMG_9003-M.jpg the road ends here, and it was time to find a an laternative route around this final peninsula of land. I headed down to the docks, in search of a ship or boat. The docks were empty and I was told there are no boats. I searched around a bit mroe then headed into town where I had some vegiie britters and chatted to the owner of the stand. She was very excited to discover that I'm from Britain and started telling me about her friend the British missionary who also travels around on a motorbike. Within minutes by a strange quirk of fate he appeared on his Yamaha bike, wearing black polyester trousers, a white shirt and flipflops-looking very out of place in the heat and humidity. I was lucky to run into him, the food stand owner introduced us, Andy the Norfolk missionary, who has lived here for five years. He was able to explain that the boats do not use the purpose-built docks as they have to pay mooring charges. Instead they go down the coast a short distance and moor off one of the beaches. If work is needed to be done, the boat is beached and the work is arried out on the sand. I heeded in the direction I'd been sent http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/M...IMG_8998-M.jpg There was one boat moored off the beach which I was assured was due to head north shortly - no good to me, I needed to go south. Three boats were pulled up on the beach like the one above., none of them wre going anywhere fast. I was told to try again the next day. I spent the rest of the day tracking down fuel- none of the garages had any petrol - only diesel. I eventually found the black marketeer operating out of a grocery shop selling it in water bottles and filled my tank. i'd been gettinag bit concerned as this was the second town where there was no fuel and I'd been on reserve for a while. |
Fishy Tales
I hung out for a couple of days, getting to know the locals and watching the progress n the boats
http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/M...IMG_8999-M.jpg Or what appeared to be lack of progress. I was finally told that there was the possibility of a boat due on Sunday which "might" be heading down to Maroansetra. Unfortunately that was five days wait for the vague chance of a boat that might be going in my direction. Although my months in Madagascar had seemed to stretch away endlessly, my time for leaving was approaching rather rapidly. I didnt have the luxury of time to wait for a boat that might not run. I turned Suzi round and for the first time on this trip I retraced my steps, heading north, to get around the dense jungles of the north. Riding through the markets http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/M...IMG_9010-M.jpg http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/M...IMG_9013-M.jpg I ended up at another small coastal town http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/M...IMG_9004-M.jpg http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/M...IMG_9005-M.jpg Down at the beach, the fishermen were bringing their catch ashore http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/M...IMG_9021-M.jpg They spotted me and brought them over http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/M...IMG_9023-M.jpg I pointed out they would be too big for my motorbike! They continued their search for a customer. Laying them out to be admired http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/M...IMG_9025-M.jpg The colours are incredible Having foud a customer, the guy then guts the fish at the edge of the sea. http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/M...IMG_9026-M.jpg |
Go West Young Woman
I needed to find an Internet Cafe and having been assured by the hotel owner that there was one just down the road, I headed off to find it, the afternoon became a wild goose chase culminating in me having to "kidnap" the heloful loke from the Jovenna garage to be my guide and point out the route to me from Suzi's pillion.
http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/M...IMG_9028-L.jpg I was so long at the Internet Cafe - partly because I'd had no contact with the outside world for quite a few days and also because the connection was a bit slow - that when I came out it was dark. i rode back to my hotel at a cautious speed, watching out for potholes and wanderig cows like this one http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/M...IMG_9029-M.jpg The next morning I went back to find some flame trees I'd spotted while doing my wild goose chase and was successfulhttp://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/M...IMG_9016-M.jpg Another shot where I mistimed my self-timer http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/M...IMG_9018-M.jpg It was time to get out of Dodge City, Suzi and I turned west towards the mountains, our departure noted only by the zebu http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/M...IMG_9045-M.jpg Time for a quick couple of selfies http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/M...IMG_9038-M.jpg I got that one a bit wrong with the timer - I seem to be peering at the camera wondering if it has taken the picture yet. this was better http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/M...IMG_9037-M.jpg I look at these and think to myself..maybe it's time for some new leather trousers, these ones get baggier by the day and I've been wearing them for over 10 years. Comfortable with a capital Chttp://d26ya5yqg8yyvs.cloudfront.net/icon10.gif |
Oh Dear - NOT one of mine!
Definitely NOT one of mine
http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/M...IMG_9036-L.jpg Ahead of me, I was facing my final dirt road across a mountain range which already was covered in mud as the dreaded Wet Season had started, nervous???http://d26ya5yqg8yyvs.cloudfront.net/puzzled.gif I was shaking in my boots, yes I HAD been through some deep mud already, but this time it would be combind with steep rocky slopes with precipice edge, or maybe I had just lost my nervehttp://d26ya5yqg8yyvs.cloudfront.net/icon10.gif http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/M...IMG_9043-M.jpg The first section didn't look too bad, and I started to feel somewhat more confident. As usual there is virtually no other traffic or sign of any people. But then it started to deteriorate... http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/M...IMG_9044-M.jpg The Checkpoint Guy http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/M...IMG_9035-M.jpg He was happy to pose for a photo and then subjected me to grave warnings about the road ahead whilst also expressing sheer bewilderment that I was on my own. To make him feel better I told him my husband was waiting for me in Ambilobe |
Friends on the Road
I'd got used to seeing mainly zebu traffic, but this was the first time I'd seen a triple yoke one
http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/M...IMG_8976-M.jpg The guy with him was a cheery fellow and stopped to ask me about the bike and to warn me about the track ahead http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/M...IMG_8977-M.jpg I pulled up for a comfort break (!) and when I returned to Suzi, we had a visitor, a very nosy one http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/M...IMG_9049-M.jpg http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/M...IMG_9048-M.jpg http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/M...IMG_9050-M.jpg http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/M...MG_9051B-M.jpg I persuaded him to head home, a motorcycle is no place for a young chameleon http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/M...IMG_9052-M.jpg And as he climbed back into the bushes, you can see the almost instant colouring change http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/M...IMG_9054-M.jpg He's gone back to all-green after picking up shades of brown to match the colours on Suzi...perhaps I should have ridden a Kawasakihttp://d26ya5yqg8yyvs.cloudfront.net/icon10.gif |
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