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It Started to get Muddy
I'm up in the hills, and I'm feeling relieved as you can see from the look on my face, I'd just negotiated a very steep slope without mishap.
http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/M...IMG_9057-M.jpg But I think my confidence in the dryness of the track was misplaced, as a short time later this was what the track started to look like http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/M...IMG_9047-M.jpg and the bridges didn't look like fun http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/M...IMG_9046-M.jpg It wasn't a pretty sight. I then arrived in a small town which resembled the Wild West, I pulled over for a rest and some food. http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/M...IMG_9061-M.jpg The food options didn't look too appetising http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/M...IMG_9059-M.jpg The main course being boiled zebu stomach lining - I opted for some noodles. |
Dirty Roads
The kids had enjoyed looking at the bike
http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/M...IMG_9062-M.jpg Apart from them the village was pretty deserted http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/M...IMG_9060-M.jpg Much like the roads .. http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/M...IMG_9087-M.jpg I managed to capture on camera some watery moments http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/M...IMG_9079-M.jpg http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/M...IMG_9080-M.jpg http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/M...IMG_9081-M.jpg The look on my face of intense concentration. And my only audience...this little puppy, who was duly unimpressed. http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/M...IMG_9077-M.jpg |
Tricky Moments
Back in the village, the old man was delighted to see me again and asked me to wait while he put on his best shirt as he was ready to be photographed again - such a sweetheart, naturally I obliged
http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/M...IMG_9075-M.jpg http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/M...IMG_9076-M.jpg Then back to the mud http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/M...IMG_9083-M.jpg and still the mud got worse http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/M...IMG_9086-M.jpg The cyclists showing me the best route http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/M...IMG_9092-M.jpg I was surprised to see this truck seemingly coming out of nowhere http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/M...IMG_9091-M.jpg |
Curious Chameleon
A pause to get my breath and another chameleon appeared, providing me with some light relief between the bouts of mud wrestling as I watched it climbing all over the bike
http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/M...IMG_9070-M.jpg http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/M...IMG_9071-M.jpg http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/M...IMG_9068-M.jpg http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/M...IMG_9066-M.jpg http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/M...IMG_9067-M.jpg http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/M...IMG_9074-M.jpg Witht he aid of a stick I tempted him away from his exploration of all things Suzuki and Giant Loop http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/M...IMG_9069-M.jpg And away he went http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/M...IMG_9063-M.jpg |
The Final Frontier of Mud
A village stop for a cup of tea
http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/M...IMG_9093-M.jpg The kids gathered to look at this strange foreigner covered in mud http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/M...IMG_9094-M.jpg their big sister turned up - wearing her school uniform, to the uninitiated, the uniform looks like a school dinner lady's overalls http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/M...IMG_9096-M.jpg Then back to the mud, where a local bike showed me an off-road route to get through http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/M...IMG_9097-M.jpg It was worsening, this lorry was completely stuck and no other vehicles could pass him http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/M...IMG_9089-M.jpg and what about this sight?? http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/M...IMG_9090-M.jpg At one point, because the mud was so slippery, wet and claylike I spent 10 minutes coering 100 metres. The tyres were going every direction except forwards and I was beginning to think I may not make it to solid ground again. The sun helped me and was drying out the tracks in places - this was one of the easy sections. http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/M...IMG_9088-M.jpg and then suddenly I was through - looking at the sun rapidly sinking I rode hard and fast in the hope of reaching a place that had accommodation before dark. I lucked out and ended up at a small hotel, where after a bucket shower the bed needed some attention - despite my tiredness I found the mattress was too thin and so I had to fold it over double http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/M...IMG_9098-M.jpg The luxury bed option! http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/M...IMG_9099-M.jpg |
Time for a Rest
I'm re-tracing my steps and decide to head for some R&R over on Nosy Be island again, just look out for the smoky ferry
http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/M...IMG_9101-M.jpg Closer up it inspires even less confidence in me http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/M...IMG_9102-M.jpg I just about manage to squeeze Suzi onto the yellow ferry http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/M...IMG_9100-M.jpg Safely on the island, I'm greeted warmly with a friendly "Bonjour Monsieur" by this family http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/M...IMG_9103-M.jpg who are selling mangoes, I did have my helmet and bike gear on, I remove my helmet and they were very apologetic- not a problem. The husband is keen for me to take a picture of him and his wife, happy to oblige http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/M...IMG_9104-M.jpg Looking for a place to stay, Suzi is offered a place in the dining room to park http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/M...IMG_9105-M.jpg After seeing what has happened to the car outside, I think it's probably a good idea she's safely indoors http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/M...IMG_9107-M.jpg Early morning, down on the beach, the zebu are having a swim http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/M...IMG_9108-M.jpg And then taken back to the fields http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/M...IMG_9110-M.jpg I'm spoiling myself, staying in a nice place after the trauma of the mud Beachside, mirrors and polished wood everywhere, I feel just a bit out of place with all my bike gear http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/M...IMG_9113-M.jpg Someone else who's bike is a bit tall for them http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/M...IMG_9115-M.jpg The local flower seller http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/M...IMG_9111-M.jpg Reminding me more of Bali or India than Africa. |
Tiffany, loving your posts and pics!!:clap:
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Cheers
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Funny Foreigners
A final day on the beach watching the locals, and then sneaking into the Italian version of Club Med just around the corner
where they had beach cleaners http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/M...IMG_9116-M.jpg I sauntered around trying to look inconspicuous and muttering "Ciao" at anyone who came near me, the highlight was the yoga session led by a guy wearing a pair of tiny speedos. I lounged in the pool - not as nice as the sea, ate my way through several courses at the buffet table and then went back to my pauper's corner, wondering a bit about these Italian tourists who will be going home and talking about their time in Madagascar, having only spent time at this one small resort. A very different experience from my own. Heading to the port, I got stuck behind this heavily laden Renault http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/M...IMG_9121-M.jpg amazingly they didn't lose a single orange... Back on the mainland, a couple of young women befriended me- curiosity and perhaps sensing a kindred spirit as they were riding around on a moped http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/M...IMG_9126-M.jpg Only the second woman I had spotted riding on two wheels http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/M...IMG_9127-M.jpg Loving the barefoot kickstarting http://d26ya5yqg8yyvs.cloudfront.net/icon10.gif Suzi had somehow got a flat tyre, so I got the local tyre guys to sort it out, while I sat on the shady side of the street http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/M...IMG_9123-M.jpg I was there for a while as they were also doing a couple of rush jobs for other people, everyone passing was having a good look at me http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/M...IMG_9125-M.jpg I was offered a snack http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/M...IMG_9134-M.jpg the vendor was an eight year old girl called Amalie http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/M...IMG_9133-M.jpg Out on her own with her kid brother tagging along, trying to make some money. I attempted to explain my vegetarian beliefs - "Nothing with a face" which she didn't seem too sure about - they're not used to foreigners and their fancy ways here. |
Loving Life
Tyre sorted, back on the road, should I be worried by a sign like this??
http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/M...IMG_9136-M.jpg Loving the multitude of teeth that the skull has http://d26ya5yqg8yyvs.cloudfront.net/icon10.gif Not sure what it was supposed to be warning about, possibly this... http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/M...IMG_9131-M.jpg The sight of the goat on the back of the bike is one of my favourite images from this trip, It had been a long day of riding and so I was pleased to see this sign, a place to stay http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/M...IMG_9144-M.jpg However the sign was the smartest thing about the place, this was the interior wall http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/M...IMG_9128-M.jpg I'm not fussy and still had a good night's sleep. As I rode past (hence the slightly blurred quality - riding one handed at a junction whilst taking a photo), I could smell the ripe mangoes http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/M...IMG_9154-M.jpg I did a U Turn, and went back for a closer look and to buy some http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/M...IMG_9155-M.jpg Mangoes are my favourite fruit and I was definitely in Madagascar at the right time, we'd reached the height of the mango season, with what seems like hundreds of different varieties for sale - eye-wateringly cheap. I crammed as many as I could into my bag. I went for a wander in the market http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/M...IMG_9152-M.jpg And met a bunch of guys who had obviously heard about my chameleon fetish http://d26ya5yqg8yyvs.cloudfront.net/icon10.gif http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/M...IMG_9150-M.jpg So many chameleons and so little luggage space... |
Things are Different Here
Breakfast Tales
http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/M...IMG_9149-M.jpg Feeling like a change from the usual noodles and soup combination, I found this place. I was back in the HIghlands, where the food on offer can differ vastly from the coastal areas. This was the doughnut stand - Tim Horton's eat your heart out (a reference that possibly only Canadians will get) this is what the price list/menu looked like http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/M...IMG_9146-M.jpg Even the most expensive doughnut cost only 3 pence (5 cents). I managed to munch my way through about five or six - naturally all in the name of research, how can I possibly comment on the culture without tasting the food? And for those in a hurry, they were doing tea and coffee to go, though you had to provide your own container - in this case an empty water bottle. http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/M...IMG_9148-M.jpg Strangely enough, the guy at the petrol station/fuel shack next door was also using old water bottles. For those who are squeamish or fussy about the fuel that they put in their bikes, perhaps you should look away http://d26ya5yqg8yyvs.cloudfront.net/yelrotflmao.gif http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/M...IMG_9141-M.jpg With both Suzi and myself fuelled up, it was time to hit the road again, the mist cleared and it got a bit warmer. I paused to chat to this guy with his zebu and sledge, making a racket as they went down the road http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/M...IMG_9139-M.jpg http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/M...IMG_9140-M.jpg |
Almost There
I wasn't far from Tana (the capital and the end of my journey), when I had another flat tyre, I managed to get to the local tyre guy where as usual a crowd soon gathered
http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/M...IMG_9142-L.jpg With the tyre fixed, I headed into the city, lunch was cooked by this woman- http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/M...IMG_9151-M.jpg veggie fritters and here she is making up more batter using her hands and adding water from the rather dirty plastic jerry in front of her - regardless, the food was delicious. A night in a comfortable hotel and I caught up with some friends, this is Lalau catching a lift to the market. http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/M...IMG_9153-M.jpg I enjoyed the vivid message this sign had: http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/M...IMG_9156-M.jpg However it was a precursor of what was to come, minutes later on my final ride of the whole trip, whilst riding along this road, http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/M...IMG_9158-M.jpg a car pulled out in front of me - ouchhttp://d26ya5yqg8yyvs.cloudfront.net/eekers.gif to be honest the car was far worse off than me http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/M...IMG_9161-M.jpg Number plate ripped off, some scrapes and is that a nasty hole ripped int he body work?? http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/M...IMG_9162-M.jpg While Suzi and I did not have a mark on us. The best part about it was the traffic police - http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/M...IMG_9157-M.jpg a glamorous young women with what appeared to be rhinestones decorating her hat. She was a bit shy about having her photo taken. She was also surprised at how I didn't want to press charges - the driver had admitted he was completely at fault and was also very profuse in his apologies. I took Suzi back to the shop to sell her and told them about the accident - they had a good look but couldn't find any damage on Suzi either. What a final adventure to have, in all my years of riding, I have never had any sort of collision with any other vehicle. It was a touching moment saying goodbye to Suzi and handing the keys over to the mechanic http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/M...IMG_9167-M.jpg I then dashed back inside as I'd spotted another bike http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/M...IMG_9165-M.jpg A Royal Enfield - and how appropriate as my next journey is going to be crossing the Indian Himalayas on a Royal Enfield 500cc bike. |
Getting Home
Having said goodbye to Suzi, it was time to pack - a bit of an issue to cram everything into my bags, despite travelling light I seemed to have acquired quite a lot of stuff.
My room on my last night while I was attempting to pack http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/M...IMG_9169-M.jpg I had to get a connecting flight in Paris and enjoyed a northern hemsiphere sunset at the airport http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/M...IMG_9170-M.jpg The combined flights were about 14 hours, I then had to get the overnight train home from London. I made up a cosy sleeping area on the floor of the train using camping gear and my bags http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/M...IMG_9171-M.jpg Early morning and the train arrived in Cornwall, as it pulled into the station, I heard a shout and there was my sister AKA the "Loud Librarian" waiting to greet me http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/M...IMG_9172-M.jpg Resplendent on the platform in her pyjamas and dressing gown - some of you might remember her looking like this http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/M...IMG_7958-M.jpg Getting home is always a strange mixture of emotions; pleasure at seeing family and friends after months away but also a sense of loss at no longer being on the road. |
Thanks for the superb ride report and pickies Tiff. Always a joy to read.
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