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Mapless in Madagascar
Madagascar - a place I've dreamt about visiting ever since camping on a Mozambique beach under a full moon and gazing out across the Indian Ocean. Although it's out of sight, knowing that there was this immense and slightly mysterious island out there.
And so, some years later (other travels and work got in the way:innocent:) , here I am heading that way for some travel and exploration. My Dad mis-read the name of this trip (every journey needs a title) and chuckled "Hapless, that about sums up all your trips" thanks for the vote of confidence Dad! In fact it's Mapless, although I am taking some maps, many of the places that I'm hoping to visit are not actually on a map, they're too small and too remote - just the type of places I like. I've even got a sticker for the trip - very un-British of me http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/M...%20small-M.png For those still unsure, Madagascar is the island to the right of the front wheel on the bike. Aah yes, the bike...Thelma- she's NOT coming with me on this one:eek:. She's my 1992 BW R80GS, she's done well over 200,000 miles and for the first time I am not taking her, it's just to expensive to ship her over. I'll be there for three months exploring and travelling, mostly on my own, although my sister (quiet librarian:lol2:) will be joining me for three weeks of pillion riding. |
Getting Ready
The past few weeks have been pretty busy with getting ready to go whilst still holding down a full-time job up until the day before I left the countrydoh
I've had a lot of help from various people, whom I like to think are doing this because they feel "Wow what a great adventure to support" but actually I suspect it's something more along the lines of "that poor misguided Englishwoman is setting off again, she needs all the help she can get"! First of all Bill Mayers who customised the seat on Thelma for me, and who is someone that realises just what a bony backside I've got, has sent me a strap-on seat. A new BMS Ergo, to try out http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/M...IMG_7022-M.jpg whilst those nice chaps at Giant Loop sent me a box of goodies http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/M...G_6983sm-M.jpg My excitement knows no bounds as I dig through the contents of the box http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/M...G_6989sm-M.jpg Here it all is, now I've got to work out how to attach it to a bike. Some of the stuff is new prototype- if it passes the Tiffany Coates test than anyone can use it! http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/M...G_6996sm-M.jpg I fitted in a quick trip to Cyprus to visit my brother, refresh my diving skills and get some warmth! I also had some new sunglasses from Ugly Fish - the best motorcycle glasses in the world http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/M...G_6911sm-M.jpg While I'm away, Thelma will be in the safe hands of Craig and Barbara where she will be having a bit of an overhaul and some TLC. It was sad to leave her behind, but nice to see how happy these two are to have her in their clutches! I'll be getting regular updates. http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/M...G_6973sm-M.jpg Ian Coates came down the weekend before I left- mainly to wave someone off at Lands End but I persuaded him to stay for a couple of days, and we managed a nice coastal walk... in the driving rain! http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/M...IMG_7026-M.jpg Ian has also travelled extensively, and as we share a surname (no relation) he's often asked in various corners of the world- are you Tiffany's Dad?! We've narrowly missed each other when we've managed to be on the same continent and were even once both in Bulgaria at the same time but opposite ends of the country and I had a tour group tagging along who would probably not have appreciated doing a social call! So it was good to finally met up. Maps purchased from Stanfords and I was ready to go, once more heading to an airport with full bike gear. |
Madagascar
It's a long journey to Madagascar.
And straight away everything looks and feels different http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/M...G_7039sm-M.jpg That was the view from the taxi. The taxis are easy to spot, they're all beige and almost every one is an old French classic complete with holes in the floor where I could see the ground passing by http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/M...G_7054sm-M.jpg Scenes from the local market http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/M...MG_7040s-M.jpg http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/M...G_7032sm-M.jpg The view from my room http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/M...MG_7049s-M.jpg The dogs I was sharing the house with http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/M...G_7053sm-M.jpg As soon as possible I headed to the bike shop, they're selling me a Suzuki DR 350, which looks good - not that I'd know if it wasn't looking good! It's going to be ready on Monday so in the meantime they said I can borrow something else for the weekend. I've got this Suzuki 250cc (at least I think that's what it is!) the guys at Motostore Madagsacar have been really helpful and friendly. Here I am, getting ready to set off. http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/M...G_7055sm-M.jpg http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/M...MG_7059m-M.jpg |
What to do at the weekend?
With the 250 loaded up, I had the weekend ahead of me and I needed to beat the rush hour traffic getting out of town, Madagascar is similar to Mongolia in that there is a decided lack of paved roads- just five roads lead out of the capital so it's not too hard to find your way. I was soon weaving and filtering through the various vehicles as I made my way west to the Highlands.
http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/M...G_7060sm-M.jpg The roads pretty soon got much quieter which was nice, the tarmac isn't bad except for the occasional pot hole. I stopped for a cold drink from this guy... http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/M...G_7063sm-M.jpg The rural villages have only dirt roads and zebu carts- zebu being the African cattle with humps on their backs and big horns, they're used more like oxen as they plough with them and get them to pull heavily laden carts often with wheels made of iron-clad wood. http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/M...G_7069sm-M.jpg http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/M...G_7061sm-M.jpg A dirt track led me to a clearing amongst some citrus trees, the sun was setting fast so I put up my tent just before it got dark (stealth camping at its best). http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/M...G_7068sm-M.jpg By the morning half the village had wandered past to say hello...so much for my stealth!! http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/M...G_7071sm-M.jpg Moving on I found a lovely spot by Lake Itasy and decided on a room for the night and a meal on the terrace overlooking the lake http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/M...G_7076sm-M.jpg I was delighted to find that not only did they offer tea but that it was served in a large tea pot. http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/M...G_7077sm-M.jpg I went for a wander around the village and found a laundry line with a difference. the locals wash their clothes in the river, then climb up the river bank and arrange the laundry on the bride railings to dry. http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/M...G_7082sm-M.jpg Street food is something I always try. This was unlike anything I had ever seen - was it meat or fish?? http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/M...G_7084sm-M.jpg The guy selling it assured me it's sweet and definitely vegetarian friendly so I bought a slice. http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/M...G_7083sm-M.jpg I liked the way he served it wrapped in a piece of paper torn from a school exercise book - complete with a lesson written on it. |
Taste the Dust
The next morning, the view from my window looked something like this...
http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/M...G_7085sm-M.jpg A typical African scene. I was on the shores of Lake Itasy, which is rumoured to have crocodiles in it, but this was the closest I got to seeing one http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/M...G_7106sm-M.jpg A photo in the hotel reception. I headed off to find some local waterfalls, and was directed along a small track which got increasingly narrow and full of fesh fesh (bulldust). I had assumed I was on the route that the bush taxis take, but there's no way that anything with four wheels used this track - and I'm sorry but I was having such a hard time riding that I didn't take any pictures at this stage. I had a couple of river crossings and then I was told I was heading the wrong way and had to go back again! I found more people AND a proper bridge, I MUST be on the right track now http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/M...G_7096sm-M.jpg I finally got to the waterfalls, very dusty and sweaty http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/M...G_7091sm-M.jpg but still able to smile It was like being at a smaller version of Victoria Falls, much smaller http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/M...G_7094sm-M.jpg I zoomed in with my camera at the white blob at the top to see this http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/M...G_7095sm-M.jpg A couple of ducks that looked like they're contemplating diving in!! And yes, as I turned to go, here were the bush taxis arriving on the good road http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/M...G_7098sm-M.jpg I just had to try and follow this road out. http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/M...G_7101sm-M.jpg |
After the Dust
I did come face to face with a crocodile
http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/M...G_7102sm-M.jpg Luckily it was just in a bar, where I was having a well-earned cold beer. http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/M...G_7103sm-M.jpg |
Bike Swap
Through couchsurfing.com, I'd been in touch with an American Peace Corps worker and went to visit her
Sarah is very blonde and from Michigan - two major contrasts to being in Madagascar http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/M...G_7111sm-M.jpg She's been out here for 18 months and had a lot of good information to share and advice to give. We had lunch at a market restaurant and she introduced me to the drink rano'apango - boiled burnt rice water. Which although it smelt pretty bad, it tasted alright, like a strong roibusch (redbush) tea from South Africa. I managed to run out of fuel- schoolgirl error, I hadn't realised that the bike had been handed over with the reserve switched on. This meant I had a bit of a delay, when I pushed the bike to the nearest village and paid someone to cycle the 6kms to the next fuel stop and bring back a coke bottle of petrol. So I was unable to get to my destination that night- because there's no way I'm riding in the dark over here. I was a bit stuck for accommodation options, the only place in the small town had red light bulbs and also rented by the hour!!:oops2: However the owner was very nice and assured me I would be safe there rather than out on the road with the animals and the brigands! As I rode in through the gates, I saw what looked like a familiar sight- http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/M...G_7112sm-M.jpg a van identical to one I had travelled through the 'Stans with a few years ago. the next morning (after a very peaceful night's sleep) the owner of the establishment and his wife posed for a picture http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/M...G_7114sm-M.jpg I made it back to Tana, and stayed at the house of a friend of the bike shop owner (long story) The house was full of Enduro trophies http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/M...G_7117sm-M.jpg And the only reading material were motocross and Enduro magazines...in French naturally. http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/M...G_7118sm-M.jpg Dinner that night was provided at the house by a couple of well...reprobates is the only word to describe them, they're originally from Reunion Island and have ended up in Madagasacar. They washed it down with lots of rum, which I managed to decline. http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/M...G_7115sm-M.jpg It was back to the bike shop in the morning, to give back the 250cc and pick up the DR 350. And time to pack it Here I am attempting to fill the Coyote Saddle Bag http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/M...G_7120sm-M.jpg And here is what I put in it http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/M...G_7109sm-M.jpg Time to head north http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/M...G_7152sm-M.jpg for some adventures, http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/M...G_7153sm-M.jpg |
Hola Tiffany
Hola Tiffany,
hey long time no news from your side, and now I see that you made it Madagaskar ... I am envious, as I also sat on a beach in Mozambique in 2004 and after that tried to find a boat from Beira to Madagaskar with no luck. And you changed to a good bike this time a DR350, I am impressed. I just made it back to Bogota and will have a weekend of sleep and fruit juices ... getting old and grey... as you know I have always been lazy. Enjoy your time and keep up the ride reports, everybody here on the Hubbs enjoys reading them. Drop me a line if you find the time, maybe our path will cross again one day. Un abrazo mika |
Hola
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Good to hear from you and how goes life in South America? I wasn't able to get to your part of the continent earlier this year, but it sounds like you're all over the place anyway. And yes, Madagascar is proving to be a very special place, I'm having a ball :mchappy: hasta luego Tiffany |
I reach the Sand
From the bustle of Tana the capital I headed East through the rolling green hills
http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/M...x/0/M/sm-M.jpg to the coast and the beautiful Indian Ocean, my first morning, I woke up to this sunrise view through my bedroom window (a simple thatched hut by the beach) http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/M...G_7151sm-M.jpg I'm in the small town (three dirt roads) of Soaneira Ivango http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/M...G_7132sm-M.jpg where there are cute kids on every corner http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/M...G_7126sm-M.jpg http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/M...G_7137sm-M.jpg I wandered around as the sun set http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/M...G_7133sm-M.jpg There's great street food, this is Madame Suzanne and she has established her little foodie empire under the only street light in town, http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/M...G_7146sm-M.jpg serving food to people wandering past and seating them on small wooden stools. http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/M...G_7147sm-M.jpg Assisted by her multitude of offspring. The local butcher shop is not for the fainthearted http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/M...G_7127sm-M.jpg and yep, like a lot of teenage shop assistants the world over, he's checking out his mobile phone behind the merchandise. http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/M...G_7128sm-M.jpg I headed north up the infamous Route National 5 Not what most of us would recognise as a major national road, but hey, this is Madagascar http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/M...G_7196sm-M.jpg |
Infrastructure - What Infrastructure?
Life is simple in Madagascar, if there's water to be crossed, there will be a floating vessel of some type (I hesitate to use the word boat)
My favourites are the small dug-out canoes or pirogues as they're called over here. It seems to be every boatman's boast that he will not turn anyone away, leading to some very heavily laden pirogues. http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/M...G_7156sm-M.jpg I was broken in gently, my first one actually had an engine (of sorts) http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/M...G_7157sm-M.jpg the next one was two guys paddling http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/M...sssssssm-M.jpg You just ride up to the edge of the water, and the rest is done for you http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/M...G_7158sm-M.jpg http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/M...G_7161sm-M.jpg These kids were practising with baby baths (no doubt donated by a well-meaning NGO) http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/M...G_7160sm-M.jpg Getting Suzi in and out was at times a bit trickier than they expected as she's bigger than the average bike around here http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/M...G_7162sm-M.jpg The bigger vehicles don't fare much better http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/M...G_7180sm-M.jpg as they load more and more on http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/M...G_7173sm-M.jpg Until it's so full they can't take anymore, and off they putter across the river mouth with the waves from the sea breaking over their feet!! http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/M...G_7177sm-M.jpg I prefer to take my chances with something like this http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/M...G_7181sm-M.jpg The track I was following ran alongside the beach, where I was watching out for super soft patches of sand and also the ropes from the fishing nets http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/M..._7167Bsm-M.jpg Then back in under the trees http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/M...G_7169sm-M.jpg To add some interest there's also some mud, sometimes a LOT of it http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/M...G_7183sm-M.jpg:helpsmilie: I'm sort of learning about this bike as I go http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/M...G_7184sm-M.jpg This is the shy fisherman who gave me a hand http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/M...G_7185sm-M.jpg |
Progress of sorts...
I wrestled with the sand for many miles:scooter: and sometimes the sand won :(
As I was feeling so hacked off I'm sorry but I have to confess I did NOT take a picture which is unheard of for me. I was mostly preoccupied with working out how to pick up Suzi, it's weird, but I can pick up Thelma fully-loaded without too much of an issue, but this bike which is maybe half the weight:helpsmilie:, a completely different story. However as I'm in the mddle of some bleak and deserted coastline track in Madagascar and there's no-one to help, I had to knuckle down. There was no wasy I could do it using my usual method and then... I remembered a YouTube clip someone once shared about picking up the bike with your back towards it. I racked my memory for all the details, turn the wheel down, grab the hand grip and something at the back, put my back into it and hey presto, Suzi was once more upright. Relief flooded through me, YES I CAN pick up this pipsqueak bike! I continued a bit more cautiously http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/M...G_7192sm-M.jpg Ahead of me, were these guys... http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/M...G_7188sm-M.jpg The pillion passenger ran for two miles through the softer section of sand before the rider let him back on for a half mile or so. Hmm, good idea I'm thinking, as my sister is about to join me, I hope she's feeling fit and strong!! By the way the rider is wearing flipflops! The bike is beginning to look worn in, with dust and mud everywhere http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/M...G_7198sm-M.jpg I had a night camped out on the coast, falling asleep with the sound of the waves crashing on the beach. and taking more pictures of priogues! http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/M...G_7135sm-M.jpg The scene in my tent (it's a small one!), not exactly the life of luxury as I eat my Happy Cow cheese spread and upload photos onto the netbook http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/M...G_7202sm-M.jpg A section of track that reminds me of Australia, parts of Brazil and also the red earth tracks on Prince Edward Island in Canada. http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/M...G_7216sm-M.jpg It was a joy to ride the red earth, but soon back to this stuff http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/M...G_7203sm-M.jpg And then the final stretch of sand for this section of the trip http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/M...G_7214sm-M.jpg Dinner was being cooked in the back yard - it's too hot to cook indoors, I like the way that the fish is too big for the pan but it's stuffed in anyway! http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/M...G_7125sm-M.jpg It's time to head to a place where life is a bit easier and relaxed. |
Off Shore
I'd heard about a tropical desert island off the eastern coast and after wrestling with the sand, decided I had to find it.
fist step was tracking down this guy http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/M...G_7221sm-M.jpg His name is Werlhof, he's the official ticket seller for the Melissa Express boat and he is the Fonz reincarnated. He speaks good English (a rarity over here) and even with a Malagasy accent, he still manages to sound like the Fonz. I bought my ticket from him and then settled down to wait as I know there's no way on earth that the boat will depart on time (it was only 1.5 hours late leaving) Life by the river, as I wait for the boat to leave http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/M...G_7220zm-M.jpg Girls fishing http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/M...G_7222sm-M.jpg This guy with the roaster in the water (it's definitely alive, and not very happy) http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/M...G_7223sm-M.jpg I asked someone what he was doing, and he explained it's a "sport chicken", the mind boggles, I don't remember seeing hens doing the 100m breaststroke. However, gradually I worked out that actually he means the so-called "sport" of cock fighting. This one is a particular favourite and it's getting the gold star treatment of a plunge in the murky looking river. Suzi safely strapped down on board http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/M...G_7227sm-M.jpg Meanwhile below decks, in the seating area, everyone was donning their lifejackets- a worrying move I thought http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/M...G_7226sm-M.jpg A journey that I was assured would be 45 minutes but was almost two hours! I arrive at Ile Sainte Marie http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/M...G_7229sm-M.jpg Apologies, bit of a video nasty, but IT'S ONLY MY SOCKS http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/M...G_7232sm-M.jpg The first time I'd had access to running water since the mud incident (and I'd only worn the socks for one day I hasten to add) Looking in the other direction was this peaceful scene, from my hotel window, the women doing some early morning fishing http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/M...G_7236sm-M.jpg http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/M...G_7234sm-M.jpg I'm heading somewhere more relaxing A pirogue with my bike gear, and off we go to this tiny island http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/M...G_7240sm-M.jpg where the hardest decision is which part of the beach is the most picturesque http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/M...G_7268sm-M.jpg |
Island Life
I'm on the island of Ile aux Nattes, where life is relaxed, everything is man(or woman)-powered and the fastest thing is...
http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/M...G_7287sm-M.jpg not sure what, but stuff being paddled over to the next island. I can't complain about the neighbourhood http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/M...G_7317sm-M.jpg Or the neighbours http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/M...G_7292sm-M.jpg |
Island Life 2
I had a bit of an oil leaking problem, as luck would have it, I found an Italian guy with bikes and so could explain to him in Spanish what was happening. Although I can get by in French (English is barely spoken over here) I am still a lot more comfortable talking bike stuff in Spanish after months of travel in Latin America.
And then I lucked out even more as the mechanic turned out to be Swiss and he even spoke English http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/M...G_7242sm-M.jpg Swiss mechanic- Giovanni, at work http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/M...G_7244sm-M.jpg I left Suzi in his capable hands overnight, meanwhile I was getting around on bicycle rickshaw, here's the view form the passenger seat. http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/M...G_7241sm-M.jpg The kids watching my every move from their vantage point in the tree http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/M...G_7279sm-M.jpg I hailed a passing pirogue http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/M...G_7289sm-M.jpg And use it to get back to the main island, to retrieve Suzi http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/M...G_7288sm-M.jpg This time, I hail a tuk tuk plying the route along the beaches http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/M...G_7319sm-M.jpg http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/M...G_7318sm-M.jpg I know someone is going to ask what was wrong with Suzi - but I can't explain beyond...the mechanic had to put silicone stuff somewhere to stop the oil coming out and replace a couple of bolts. The lemur came back down to play again http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/M...G_7281sm-M.jpg and later brought his friend http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/M...IMG_7263-M.jpg They're incredibly gentle as they take the banana from my hand, licking my fingers clean and then softly holding my hand to check for any more. Their paws feel more like a baby's hand. The passing traffic from my hut http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/M...G_7306sm-M.jpg Another tough day in paradise, I have a restful beer http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/M...G_7272sm-M.jpg |
Wow!
Fantastic! Thank you so much for posting such an adventure report!
I've been preparing my next adventure to Madagascar (2014) for a couple of months now, I'm very thrilled and your post is just boosting my enthusiasm for that trip even more. I have to decide on which bike I'll ship for this trip between a TTR250R, 640Adv and 690R. The plan is to ship the bike to Mozambique afterwards for the following trip in 2015. To be continued, for sure! |
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Those shoes look really light and compact, do you think they are available in my size? :biggrin3: |
Tiffany -I always have trouble deciding where to go on the next trip from a huge bucket-list of "places to visit" . Thanks for causing me to add another !
There's a rumour you have done trips like this before :innocent: So I was interested to see you "packing light" photo. Great I can get some insight into what experienced over landers take.............. bit surprised on the food choice? Is that little pile the result of 10's of 1000's of miles across many continents, over many years :confused1: Deeply jealous to be quite honest, looks a great adventure .......... except m&m's, don't like m&m's Tim |
Great pics and words, tnx :scooter: :palm:
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Internet!!
I've been off-line for seven days, ever since my sister arrived and we hit the road heading south west, we have now reached the Mozambique Channel and are in the town of Morondava after a journey that included three days paddling down the Tseribhina River in a pirogue (dug put canoe) with Suzi the bike precariously balanced in it - photos to follow.
Just checking in really to let people know I'm alive. http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/M...G_7362sm-M.jpg |
These boots are made for...
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we're having a chuckle abut that - and yes they might well be in your size Mark- Karrimor LADIES ones. Abi (loud librarian sister) says NO WAY Mark - you would look too girly in them! |
looks nice
beets:thumbup1::thumbup1: a rainy afternoon in crewe doing the washing and couch surfing
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I've Got Company
A chance to do a bit more of a catch up as we are staying here for two days - Morondava is like the Blackpool of Madagascar, lots of locals enjoying the beach and wondering what on earth these "vazahas" - foreigners were doing in their midst, body surfing the waves. The Loud Libararian aka my younger sister (she and Lois were good friends at school) is with me now for the next three weeks, this was her arrival at the airport last week
http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/M...G_7396sm-M.jpg For some reason her boyfriend is a bit concerned about her safety while travelling with mehttp://d26ya5yqg8yyvs.cloudfront.net/eekers.gif I picked her up in style - a fellow bike enthusiast who had heard about me via the web had invited me to stay with him and his family and so we were able to collect her from the airport in a landrover with diplomatic plates (his KTM also has diplomatic plates!!) |
Who else is heading over?
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For those who have been wondering, the people to get in touch with are Motostore based in Madagascar's capital which has a mouthful of a name Antananarivo- but known as Tana for short. Motostore MG - Husqvarna - SYM - Aeon is their website, get in touch with them to ask about buying or hiring a bike, Francois is the main guy to talk to- he speaks good English, although so do the rest of the team. |
Pamplona Meets Pirates of the Caribbean
Just to backtrack a bit, pre-sister
I had to get back to the mainland of Madagascar and this was the boat myself and Suzi the bike were taking to the open sea in http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/M...G_7320sm-M.jpg To be honest there is a something that I would think of as a better ferry but my timings meant I was heading out in this. They quickly got Suzi on board http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/M...G_7323sm-M.jpg All was peaceful in the early morning on the beach, as I waited for more passengers to arrive; a duck seller approached and wanted to know if I was interested in his wares. I pointed out I was travelling by motorcycle and he offered to tether them, still ive, to Suzi http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/M...G_7350sm-M.jpg I declined. and then all hell let loose when the earlier cargo, a zebu (African cross between an ox and a cow) charged back onto the beach http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/M...G_7326sm-M.jpg with half the village either running from it or chasing it:D I was one of those cowering behind a tree taking these photos http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/M...G_7327sm-M.jpg http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/M...G_7324sm-M.jpg this appeared to be the end of its adventures but it tossed its head, charged at the guy who had hold of the rope, who, quite naturally let go and ran for his life (with the rest of the village watching and roaring with laughter) the zebu then changed tack, having been chasing up and down the road and the beach, it headed away from the people http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/M...G_7329sm-M.jpg and out to sea http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/M...G_7330sm-M.jpg this was on full zoom - similar to those blurry Loch Ness monster photos from the 1950's. This is definitely genuine. At which point as it reached 1/4 mile out to sea with no sign of stopping, the boat guys ran out from the café where they were having breakfast and took to the boat in attempt to head off the zebu http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/M...G_7332sm-M.jpg Hmm, yes, well spotted, that IS Suzi acting as part of the Inshore Lifeboat rescue team, strapped down in the boat which is little more than a glorified rowing boat. They reached the zebu, grabbed its trailing rope http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/M...G_7333sm-M.jpg and brought it back to shore at a forced march version of a swim http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/M...G_7334sm-M.jpg however, as its feet reached solid ground once more, it took off, lowered its head http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/M...G_7337sm-M.jpg even angrier than before and we had the Pamplona Running of the Bulls on a tropical beach again http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/M...G_7339sm-M.jpg Until finally, after a lot more bull charging, it was finally caught and tethered to a tree on the beach to calm down http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/M...G_7348sm-M.jpg |
Back to Mainland Madagascar
There is a lot to catch up on after just a week without internet, so here we go
With all the zebu drama, I hadn't noticed how many people had gathered on the beach for the boat to the mainland. They quickly climbed aboard and I squeezed in between a granddad and a 10 year old. In total there were 20 people and about 10 kids ont he boat plus a lot of luggage and of course, Suzi the motorbike. It looked something like this http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/M...G_7352sm-M.jpg yes, the eight year old is fast asleep against the bike. It was a relatively short journey, around 40 mins to the mainland and we soon found ourselves surfing in on the waves, landing on a sandy beach http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/M...G_7353sm-M.jpg children were passed off the boat first and it was all hands to help out this was the sleepy head and her baby brother http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/M...G_7354sm-M.jpg Bags were passed off next, and then they all heaved the boat up the beach. Except there wasn't much movement. It wouldn't budge and the waves were breaking over the stern, swamping the boat. a shout went out, now I'm not much of a Malagasy speaker, but even I could tell that the yell was "Get the bike off or we lose the boat" - I'm sure there are shadows of Jonah in this somewhere. I couldn't protest, they undid the ropes, grabbed Suzi and hauled her overboard in almost waist deep water. I admit I panicked a bit, but there was nothing I could do, but the guys did well and hauled her quickly up the shore. http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/M...G_7355sm-M.jpg This woman in the foreground was more concerned with her charcoal brazier. They pulled and hauled Suzi up the beach. http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/M...G_7356sm-M.jpg and then everyone helped to get the boat up high beyond the reach of the waves http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/M...G_7357sm-M.jpg I stayed to make sure all was well and to pay my fare. I looked around, I had absolutely no idea where I was, I'd been landed ont he coastline of Eastern Madagascar somewhere north of Soaneirana ivongo (bit of a mouthful that one). It was just a beach, no jetty or anything, they had been unable to show me on my map where I was - it was too small to be graced with a name. So I took off, heading south, heading inland a bit to find a track. The track soon petered out into water http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/M...G_7360sm-M.jpg which I managed to cross, the next part had a thoughtful bridge of sorts, for pedestrians and bikes http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/M...G_7359sm-M.jpg http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/M...G_7358sm-M.jpg In this part of the world, this is major infrastructure. But then things went downhill when I had to follow this stream http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/M...G_7362sm-M.jpg Unbelievably, I came across another bike with a couple of local blokes wearing some sort of hunting gear. http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/M...G_7365sm-M.jpg They could only reply yes to everything I asked them. So I continued south with the sea on my left, until suddenly I came out onto the local equivalent of the M5, complete with a lorry blocking the way http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/M...G_7364sm-M.jpg That sandy track may not look much but it was the best chance of a main road I had seen for almost a couple of hours. I reached a river, with a vehicle barge chugging past http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/M...G_7368sm-M.jpg I took a pirogue with the welcome sight at the other end of Madame and the lunch table http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/M...G_7366sm-M.jpg I selected the veggie options - the meal is called compose, and you choose what you want. My eal looked something like this http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/M...G_7367sm-M.jpg Madame was able to confirm that I was ont he correct road and shortly after I saw this welcome sight http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/M...G_7370sm-M.jpg For the uninitiated, that is a Malagasy kilometre post, set at intervals on major routes (it may take a slight stretch of the imagination to see this as being a major route) Even better, the S/Ivongo 8 potentially means I am just 8 kms from the town with the very long name and where rumours have it, there is tarmac. http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/M...G_7369sm-M.jpg I was thrilled, but then it doesn't take much to please me:clap: and so I promptly fell over http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/M...G_7372sm-M.jpg I've mastered the picking up with your back tot he bike, so not such a problem this time. and I was a bit more careful with the next section http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/M...G_7373sm-M.jpg a note to self to maybe not bring pillion riders this way. hotly pursued by something that looks like it should be in a horror movie http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/M...G_7375sm-M.jpg I made it to the safety of yet another pirogue where Suzi was loaded in some quite stagnant water, made to look prettier by some floating plants -believe me, it was stinking and I was almost knee deep in it as I helped the blokes to lift her up and into the pirogue. http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/M...G_7374sm-M.jpg at the other end we had a bit of a problem, I thought the shore looked odd, it turned out we had a longish haul to more solid ground http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/M...G_7376sm-M.jpg and then when I reached the village entrance, it was completely underwater, early rains had caused flooding http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/M...G_7378sm-M.jpg The next 20 minutes were spent trying to find a route between the thatched huts and up onto solid ground. |
Life
Yes, I found the tarmac and yes, I made it to civilisation, though if you can call this civilisation
http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/M...G_7383sm-M.jpg They've got wings and to give you a sense of size... http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/M...G_7384sm-M.jpg Nearly the size of my hand. I had entered the land of the giant cockroaches. To add to my problems http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/M...G_7382sm-M.jpg It had started to rain, this is the view from my room at the best hotel in town looking towards the shared toilet. And to prove it's a proper hotel, here are the rules... http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/M...G_7380sm-M.jpg if you can read Malagasy. However I was more concerned with the rain, this is supposed to be the dry season in Madagascar:( I put all my layers of clothes on and headed out, things were not much prettier on the roads. Looking at this picture, you may be surprised to hear that they are actually supposed to drive on the right in Madagascar http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/M...G_7385sm-M.jpg This was one of those situations where it's every man (or woman) for him/herself, and I was quick to take advantage with the off-road capabilities of the bike. And so to Tana and the house of Thom and his family who had heard about my travels and kindly offered to host me (and my dirty washing!). What lovely, fantastic people. Clothes in the washing machine and I sat down to a sumptuous meal http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/M...G_7386sm-M.jpg Thai food with a great wine and great company http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/M...G_7387sm-M.jpg I felt completely spoilt. As a total contrast, my next 24 hours were spent in very normal pastimes, such as going for a bike ride with the kids and Thom http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/M...G_7388sm-M.jpg Even this close to the city centre, there are paddy fields http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/M...G_7389sm-M.jpg Playing landrover games an old play structure which is rotting and dangerous, it needs demolishing http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/M...G_7393sm-M.jpg Enter the Landrover and girls who know how to use all the attachments http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/M...G_7392sm-M.jpg It might not have been pretty but it didn't take long and it was very satisfying. http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/M...G_7394sm-M.jpg http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/M...G_7400sm-M.jpg Playing board games is also one of my favourites, though I well and truly lost at Fibber http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/M...G_7404sm-M.jpg And so goodbye to this life of comfort and back to the road this time with my sister in tow as pillion rider. |
Back on the Road
She arrived with a smile and sense of adventure, more importantly, she arrived with very little luggage:clap::clap:
http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/M...IMG_7405-M.jpg Day one on the road and she's got the hang of the picnic lunches http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/M...IMG_7408-M.jpg Accommodation-wise we started off gently, just take a look at this place or should I say palace?! http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/M...IMG_7406-M.jpg It cost us about £10 between us for the night. We're up on the second floor so I'm hoping that the flying cockroaches won't reach us!! We're using the local rickshaws to get around, no bike, just a bloke on foot running through the streets in his barefeet. http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/M...CIMG0008-M.jpg she's got a good sense of humour and enjoyed it all. A chameleon was spotted in the road http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/M...CIMG0010-M.jpg He tried to leg it, but we were onto him with our cameras http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/M...CIMG0011-M.jpg http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/M...CIMG0009-M.jpg She (sister NOT chameleon) likes bird watching, and spotted a Madagascar Hawk http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/M...IMG_7422-M.jpg Meanwhile I'm riding around enjoying a bit of off-roading http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/M...IMG_7418-M.jpg http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/M...IMG_7410-M.jpg |
Great posts Tiff. Always fun following your adventures.:funmeterno: Thanks for taking the time to get such good photos too! Happy travels.
Paul |
Thank you
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On the road with my sister
We rode through a market trying to find our hotel,
http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/M...CIMG0015-M.jpg but even I had to admit defeat at this point and turn around, not even the cyclists were going through http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/M...CIMG0013-M.jpg http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/M...CIMG0014-M.jpg We found out the hotel had closed down and so we headed tot he bungalows on offer and had one that looked like a honeymoon place http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/M...IMG_7439-M.jpg There are even pretty flowers outside http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/M...IMG_7434-M.jpg Abi decided to go for that scary travel experience where you get someone to cut your hair and the person does not share a common word of language with you! http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/M...CIMG0019-M.jpg The flicks and layers I ended up with in Georgia still come back to haunt me:rolleyes2: Elections are brewing, the first in many years, pick up trucks with large sound systems in the back are trawling the streets playing political speeches and distorted music at ear splitting volumes, and the walls are covered in election posters - we've picked out favourites http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/M...IMG0017B-M.jpg We met another bike traveller, this is Kim from Korea who has hired a Honda for 25 days. http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/M...CIMG0020-M.jpg I do have a picture of his bike somewhere but that will have to appear later. We'd been heading west and reached the end of the tarmac/dirt or any sign of further tracks and so went in search of a boat to continue. We had visions of something like this http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/M...IMG_7540-M.jpg We spread the word in town, and soon had a "business meeting" to sort out getting down the river. http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/M...IMG_7442-M.jpg Due to our incredible negotiating skills and low budget, the actual boat we ended up with was this http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/M...CIMG0022-M.jpg without the washerwomen I hasten to add. |
On the River
Sitting on the river bank watching as the boat guys decide how to load.
http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/M...IMG_7427-L.jpg They did it- got Suzi onto the pirogue. http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/M...CIMG0021-M.jpg A pirogue is basically a tree trunk which has been scraped out to create a dug out canoe. They are very plentiful on the rivers and sea around Madagascar and most parts of Africa. |
Ladies Who Launch
Everything is ready
We have Suzi the bike securely :innocent: tied on the pirogue http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/M...CIMG0027-M.jpg We've got comfortable seats for Abi and me (I'll also be using my BMS Ergo seat) We've been shopping and got floppy hats and umbrellas to protect us from the sun. http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/M...CIMG0034-M.jpg Abi looks a bit more Ladies Day at Ascot than me!! http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/M...CIMG0030-M.jpg And off we go (never mind that the river is only ankle deep at this point!!) http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/M...IMG_7444-M.jpg Yes, SHE got the flowery umbrella:rolleyes2: http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/M...IMG_7446-M.jpg The crew... this is Marietta http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/M...CIMG0024-M.jpg Fali - the main paddle guy is on the left and Nasulah the guide on the right http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/M...IMG_7463-M.jpg Together we've got three days of rivers to navigate before we reach a dirt track. Whoops almost forget, one other passenger, this is Henny Penny who sat in the shade under Suzi most of the time http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/M...IMG_7461-M.jpg Henny Penny's motives for travelling seem a bit unclear, but actually she's destined for the stew pot - just don't tell her. |
More Boat than Bike
View from the Tent
As night fell, I was still outside looking at the stars- they are incredible out here where there's no artificial light. http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/M...CIMG0041-M.jpg It's a perfect temperature, warm but breezy so there is no problem with the mosquitoes. Sunrise and I looked over towards the guide's tent http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/M...CIMG0044-M.jpg They were busy http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/M...IMG_7494-M.jpg Suzi was still there as well- no bike rustlers had sneaked up on us in the night, although there had been a lot of animal noises coming from the bushes around us. http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/M...IMG_7495-M.jpg breakfast was soon ready http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/M...IMG_7487-M.jpg http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/M...IMG_7489-M.jpg We felt like Victorian Lady Explorers having this sort of service, something I could quite get used to! 6.30am and off we paddle http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/M...IMG_7500-M.jpg Spectators are sparse http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/M...IMG_7512-M.jpg another sandbank to push the boat past http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/M...IMG_7508-M.jpg watched by various pedestrians (yes, they are STILL just wading across the river!) http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/M...IMG_7516-M.jpg Others are using zebu carts to collect water http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/M...IMG_7518-M.jpg A passing piroguier knows Fali and he paddles alongside us for 40 minutes chatting to our guys http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/M...IMG_7521-M.jpg There is a relaxed pace of life on the river. We spot some people panning for gold and pull up in the shade of a large tree beside them http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/M...IMG_7522-M.jpg I check that Henny Penny is still Ok http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/M...IMG_7527-M.jpg http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/M...IMG_7526-M.jpg she's got the bottom bunk underneath Suzi. Abi gives her a comforting hug http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/M...IMG_7524-M.jpg http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/M...IMG_7523-M.jpg |
A Hasty Exit
Lunch was being prepared, and it was a scene of tranquillity, we were sat under the tree with the children staring at us while their mothers and older sisters panned for gold.
http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/M...IMG_7532-M.jpg http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/M...IMG_7528-M.jpg When some people appeared on the opposite bank, http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/M...IMG_7534-M.jpg Behind them more people were emerging from amongst the trees. We asked Nasulah what was going on, he shrugged and said "It's people from the taxi boat" this is an overcrowded motor boat which runs a bus service for settlements on the river. We'd spotted it earlier but it had then stopped and taken a different channel of the river from us. While we'd been sat under the tree, we had heard its engine as it made its way along the river. The people started calling over to us, Nasulah looked up, what was more interesting was the reaction of the gold panners (women and girls) as they looked up http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/M...IMG_7533-M.jpg They called out some questions, which were answered and suddenly looking extremely alarmed, they threw down their pans, grabbed the babies and small children and then rushed away. We asked what was happening, and Nasulah said "It's bandits, they have attacked the taxi boat and now they are coming this way" He agreed with us that we had to go and straightaway. The charcoal burner was doused, the saucepans grabbed and we rushed back into the boat pushing off from the bank and the guys paddled hard. Nasulah asked to borrow my binoculars and scanned the river bank on the opposite side http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/M...IMG_7536-M.jpg You'll be pleased to hear that the bandits did not appear and we escaped safely. |
Another Night..
Our delayed lunch took place almost two hours downstream (bearing in mind that the bandits have hijacked the taxi boat and so potentially have an engine while we just have paddle (and brolly) power.
We pulled up at a sandbank with little shade, a few huts with people outside watched us get out and Nasulah directed us to a shady area at the side. we were both hot and so had a swim with the kids joining in http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/M...IMG_7543-M.jpg with more kids following http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/M...IMG_7542-M.jpg Despite the muddy brown colour of th river,t he locals wash, cook and even drink the water. http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/M...IMG_7545-M.jpg This child was using the cup to drink with and then just playing with the water. The story of our near brush with the bandits was told to the villagers who were very interested. Then a motor boat came past http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/M...CIMG0049-M.jpg They were regaled with the story and warned about the bandits Other motor boats appeared and we realised that the "real tourists" had caught us up in their motorised boats - something we had aspired to, http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/M...IMG_7548-M.jpg but after a day and a half on the river in our quiet pirogue, we realised we actually preferred our boat. we waved as the tourists on the other boats took pictures of us I can't think why they thought we were so odd looking... http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/M...IMG_7449-M.jpg Further on it was time for a break, the lemurs were calling to us http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/M...IMG_7552-M.jpg and we went ashore to get more photos of them http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/M...IMG_7553-M.jpg and to find the waterfall we'd heard about http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/M...IMG_7554-M.jpg The water was crystal clear and so jumped in for a swim and a bathe http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/M...IMG_7557-M.jpg We couldn't linger, we'd lost time today and so we headed on and as dusk was falling stopped at - yep, you've guessed it, a sand bank. http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/M...CIMG0060-S.jpg The guys quickly got the charcoal burners going as they prepared some food for us http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/M...IMG_7568-M.jpg With usual speed in the tropics, it quickly got dark and still the burners were going http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/M...IMG_7571-M.jpg while they were cooking, I seized the opportunity to upload some of my photos onto the computer http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/M...CIMG0065-M.jpg I think the photo was better without the flash, as you can't see how untidy our tent area is!! http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/M...CIMG0064-M.jpg This was the best night so far for jungle noises, the birds, frogs and lemurs were making a racket and adding to the exotic feel of the river. |
River to Zebu
Apologies for the overload of info today - it's election day s most places are closed and I'm waiting to get to the bike shop to pick up the bigger capacity furl tank- which has given me an unexpected day with good Internet access (Unusual over here) to catch up on photo uploads and blogs...
An even earlier start the final morning on the river, I'm a bit bleary eyed and crumpled as we set off http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/M...IMG_7573-M.jpg The scenery makes up for it, we've entered a gorge and the rocks look amazing as the sunrise reflects off them http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/M...IMG_7574-M.jpg http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/M...IMG_7579-M.jpg To our surprise we saw bats hanging from the cliff face, out in the open http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/M...IMG_7590-M.jpg We had an early stop at a bustling village on...dare I say it a sandbank. The guys seemed a bit shifty and went of towards the huts saying they were going to get a coffee- very unusual behaviour we thought. They left us at the edge of the water, where we found a randomly placed bench to sit on http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/M...IMG_7583-M.jpg The morning wore on http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/M...IMG_7585-M.jpg and we realised Henny Penny was being a bit quiet- in fact we couldn't see her. We questioned the guys and the admitted she'd been despatched during the night. We hadn't smelt any meat cooking and I suspect that our unexplained and rather odd stop at the village earlier had been their attempt at selling her body parts. There's a lot of fish on the river but very few chickens we'd noticed. It was not a subject to discuss but we were subdued. It was a warm day with little shade until the guys hailed a bloke under a thatched shade. we pulled up and joined him and the two boys http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/M...IMG_7589-M.jpg The bloke pulled some birds (!) out of a bag http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/M...IMG_7587-M.jpg Sparrows, baby budgies and other small birds, all apparently destined for the cooking pot. http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/M...IMG_7588-M.jpg all alive and desperate to escape. At least the puppy looked happy http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/M...CIMG0066-M.jpg We didn't realise but this was the final meal break, as at the next stop, we got out to walk for a while along the river bank and at the end of the walk were told the trip was over and we were at our destination. Except that the actual contracted destination (remember that "business meeting") was 6kms down the track after some river crossings. We were given the opportunity to off-load our luggage which I wasted no time in doing, the bags went into the zebu cart and I also took advantage to off-load my passenger, after all she's not going to enjoy river crossings http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/M...IMG_7592-M.jpg We said goodbye to Marietta and Fali. Nasulah was continuing on with us and fancied himself as the next Lewis Hamilton of the zebu world and picked up the reins http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/M...IMG_7593-M.jpg The guy in front with the white T-shirt?? Well he announced he would come on the bike with me and be my guide- why not I thought as he jumped on in his barefeet. The zebu cart took off at a gallop while I was still getting my helmet on and making introductions with my "guide" - John the Baptist, OK it's actually Jean Batiste, but that is what it means. We soon caught up with the cart, Abi was in the back barely able cling onto the sides and so she did well to take these photos as we followed http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/M...CIMG0069-M.jpg http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/M...CIMG0070-M.jpg http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/M...CIMG0071-M.jpg Abi's view from the back looking forwards http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/M...CIMG0067-M.jpg http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/M...CIMG0072-M.jpg I finally had to hop up onto a footpath at the side to get past http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/M...CIMG0073-M.jpg I got to the village quite a time before them, found a hotel/bungalow place and grabbed a room, Their zebu cart came trotting along, with Abi now smiling as she realised her life was no longer in danger. http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/M...IMG_7594-M.jpg http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/M...IMG_7596-S.jpg John the Baptist had been great as a pillion rider, cackling away as we sped along and ploughed through a river. He just clung onto the rack at the back and I didn't even notice he was there. A cold beer as the sun set finished the day off nicely for me. http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/M...CIMG0076-M.jpg |
Back on the Bike
A farewell to our floppy hats, they had served us well
http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/M...IMG_7601-M.jpg we gave them to the cleaner who took this photo for us off to catch a ferry http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/M...CIMG0079-M.jpg where they insisted that I would not be allowed to ride my bike along the ramp and the blokes then spent ages wrestling the bike onto the barge http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/M...CIMG0081-M.jpg http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/M...CIMG0085-M.jpg http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/M...CIMG0084-M.jpg http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/M...IMG_7608-M.jpg we sat at the front away from the engines http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/M...IMG_7610-M.jpg http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/M...IMG_7611-M.jpg at the other end I was allowed to ride off http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/M...CIMG0088-M.jpg http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/M...CIMG0089-M.jpg http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/M...CIMG0090-M.jpg |
Tiffany thoroughly enjoyed the blog,quite the adventure ,also had to tune in to find out the "chook story "beautifully illustrated by your photographs.:D:D Regards Noel
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Chooks Alert
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Lots of chooks out here - generally making suicidal dashes across the road! |
Ship Ahoy
Leaving the ferry and tearing ourselves away from the riverside scenes, such as boys collecting water
http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/M...IMG_7613-M.jpg We head into ton and stopped at the first shaded place we saw, my sister is getting quite comfortable in her bike gear as you can see http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/M...IMG_7615-M.jpg We bumped into Nasulah - our river guide http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/M...IMG_7616-M.jpg who was so pleased to see us he did one of his mega watt smiles for the camera- he usually prefers to have a straight face for photos. http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/M...IMG_7617-M.jpg We seemed to be spending a lot of time on boats, we now needed to take yet another one http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/M...IMG_7618-M.jpg This one then sat there for an hour with us on it waiting to fill up with passengers before it will go. Never mind, this is Africa and there's always plenty to watch, today it was the zebu washing competition http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/M...IMG_7620-M.jpg with particular emphasis being paid to the bums http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/M...IMG_7622-M.jpg I'm sitting comfortably, writing my journal http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/M...IMG_7623-M.jpg other boats are off-loading, they don't worry about niceties like a quay here! http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/M...IMG_7624-M.jpg car ferries are packed http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/M...IMG_7627-M.jpg Our boat was full, but the bloke in charge decided there was room for more, and a Suzuki 125 was passed in http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/M...IMG_7628-M.jpg Things got pretty cramped http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/M...IMG_7629-M.jpg You can see Suzi on the left side with the guy leaning over her - he's having to sit on the edge of the boat. |
Muddy Escapades
I know of some people who pay good money to do obstacle course races through deep mud- as I reminded my sister, she gets to do it for free!
http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/M...IMG_7631-M.jpg We'd arrived and under the deceptive surface of the water is deep sucking mud- we didn't want to lose our boots in it, so went barefoot to get us, our gear and Suzi to dry land- and it was a long haul as you will see http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/M...IMG_7632-M.jpg http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/M...IMG_7634-M.jpg I wasn't just watching, I was supervising the bike unloading... http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/M...IMG_7637-M.jpg http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/M...IMG_7639-M.jpg http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/M...IMG_7640-M.jpg http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/M...IMG_7641-M.jpg Come on boys, lets see if we can keep the momentum going... http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/M...IMG_7642-M.jpg Don't slow down now... http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/M...IMG_7644-M.jpg http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/M...IMG_7645-M.jpg and yes, that IS our bike lying in the dry (ish) mud http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/M...IMG_7646-M.jpg sorting out the side stand http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/M...IMG_7648-M.jpg Luggage on, sister slogged through mud to a better vantage point, now I've just got to get out off here http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/M...CIMG0093-M.jpg this bit is very wet and slippery http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/M...CIMG0094-M.jpg and onto dry land http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/M...CIMG0096-M.jpg |
Random
View from the pillion's seat
http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/M...CIMG0091-M.jpg In case you've ever wondered what the view is like for the person sat behind me. |
Animal Life
I promise, no more boats for a while
we're now back on the road with a vengeance, except it's not much of a road, lots of sand and it's often rutted which is not fun, I drop the bike - one of those slow motion drops, my sister is more surprised than anything and she's also surprised at how tricky it is to pick up a bike in sand. I didn't take a picture as: a) It was swelteringly hot b) her foot was trapped under the bike c) I didn't want to damage sisterly relations as we've got to spend a couple more weeks together on the bike the tracks are pretty empty, we start to see our first Baobab trees http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/M...CIMG0102-M.jpg there are few other road users we spot another motorcyclist but quicly agree he probably is NOT another overlander unless he's an Action Man role player http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/M...IMG_7707-M.jpg I love the zebu carts http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/M...CIMG0129-M.jpg It's getting late and we stop at a forest reserve for the night, staying in the dorm. To my surprise a large cat appears at the door and then I realise it's got a very long tail and actually it turns out to be a fossa - supposed to be one of the most difficult to spot animals in Madagascar and here it is almost walking in on me getting changed. Grabbing my camera I follow it into the woods http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/M...IMG_7653-M.jpg http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/M...IMG_7652-M.jpg http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/M...CIMG0107-L.jpg It looks a bit fierce so I don't try to get too close. Hot on the heels of doing my David Attenborough impression we head into the woods properly for a night walk with a guide http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/M...IMG_7669-M.jpg the guide proves excellent at listening to the forest noises and pointing his torch in the right direction however my camera skills and the distance from the animals as they either hide or move quickly means that I haven't got much worth showing here but I do have a lot of good memories from the fat-tailed lemur tot he little mouse lemur and even this mongoose http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/M...IMG_7659-M.jpg followed by these little fellows http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/M...IMG_7674-M.jpg The Giant Jumping Rat- it looks fine from the front - like a rabbit, but then it turns and its got the scaly tail of a rat - yuck and yes they DO jump and they move very quickly. |
You are indeed very fortunate to see such wildlife.Love the boabs/bottle trees i have three myself in my property.:thumbup1:
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The Lemurs are in the Neighbourhood
What can I say - this is one of the reasons we're here
first the juveniles arrive and have a good look at us http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/M...CIMG0117-M.jpg and these guys like getting close http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/M...CIMG0114-M.jpg a bit of banana works wonders http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/M...CIMG0119-M.jpg The Loud Librarian gets in on the act http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/M...IMG_7681-M.jpg http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/M...IMG_7680-M.jpg Mum comes over to check us out, she is the Alpha female of this group http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/M...IMG_7687-M.jpg a sleepy baby on her back http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/M...CIMG0125-M.jpg http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/M...IMG_7685-M.jpg then the look out guy called the alarm http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/M...IMG_7688-M.jpg and off they went Thanks for letting me be self-indulgent with the lemur pictures!! |
Destination West Coast
More sand and more Baobabs
http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/M...CIMG0099-M.jpg http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/M...IMG_7690-M.jpg the mad African bus lives on in Madagascar http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/M...IMG_7691-M.jpg I didn't manage to get the chickens and ducks on the roof in this shot. and then suddenly we were surrounded by greenery and paddy fields. http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/M...IMG_7699-M.jpg Time to head to the beach, and a reasonably nice place to stay as well http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/M...CIMG0147-M.jpg this is a view of our room - from the outside because in my usual fashion within five minutes of arriving at a hotel room, it resembles a war zone with stuff scattered everywhere. http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/M...CIMG0146-M.jpg I get acquainted with the neighbours http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/M...CIMG0136-M.jpg The Librarian couldn't wait to hit the beach http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/M...CIMG0138-M.jpg Tourists may be few and far between but there's always a friendly dog http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/M...CIMG0141-M.jpg and a sundowner drink as we watched the sun set http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/M...IMG_7760-M.jpg |
Close Encounters...
http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/M...IMG_7704-L.jpg
Loving the chameleons I found these little girls with one on a stick http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/M...IMG_7703-M.jpg they were appalled when I touched it http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/M...IMG_7702-M.jpg but still managed a smile when I pointed the camera at them http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/M...IMG_7705-M.jpg |
THOSE Baobabs
Sunset was beckoning and so, turning my back on the beach I headed to the Avenue des Baobabs, one of the most famed sights in Madagascar.
http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/M...IMG_7708-M.jpg http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/M...IMG_7711-M.jpg Persuading passers by to act as photographers for me (Librarian was still on the beach) http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/M...IMG_7720-M.jpg http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/M...IMG_7718-M.jpg maybe Grant will even let me submit one of these pics for the photography competition... though I'm not sure he approves of standing on bikes http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/M...IMG_7721-M.jpg http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/M...IMG_7722-M.jpg |
Baobabs
The term awesome has been used too much nowadays to describe many things such as a new haircut or a chocolate desert, there are very few things that I feel are actually awesome. My most recent was the first time I saw the sagrada familia cathedral in Barcelona a few weeks ago.
But the Baobabs ? Oh yeah they look awesome .............. |
In Morondava
Fresh back from my jaunt along the Baobab Avenue, we splash out on a meal in town- yep, the Loud Librarian is getting to grips with travelling Tiffany style, when street food rules the way every time. This was a great spot and we ate here a couple of times.
http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/M...IMG_7746-M.jpg Here’s a close up of the fish that she paid 15 pence for! http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/M...IMG_7762-M.jpg Then watched a stand-off between a gecko and a cockroach, no prizes for guessing which one I was cheering on. http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/M...IMG_7750-M.jpg The gecko had a go then ran away, to our shock the cockroach then FLEW away. Cocktails to finish with http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/M...IMG_7764-M.jpg and another great sunset http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/M...IMG_7743-M.jpg Goodbye to the beach as we head east, for a dash across the country from Morondava to Brickaville. The usual seaworthy vessels battling the waves - makes some of the boats we take Suzi in look good http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/M...IMG_7759-M.jpg Then a quick stop at this shop to get a new mirror - we'd lost our one in one of the sand falls http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/M...IMG_7752-M.jpg Almost forgot, we’d bumped into a familiar face- it was Kim the Korean with his bike, and as promised here’s a picture of it for those of you keen on motorbikes. He’s managed to ride the same sandy tracks as us on this bike so he’s doing well. http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/M...IMG_7766-M.jpg some random pictures from the road the evening before http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/M...IMG_7734-M.jpg http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/M...IMG_7738-M.jpg as you can see the other traffic is mainly zebu carts http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/M...IMG_7736-M.jpg |
Awesome Landscape
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West to East
A final Baobab scene
http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/M...IMG_7729-M.jpg Reflected in my extremely cool Ugly Fish sunglasses. Scenes from a ride across country from more street food... http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/M...CIMG0185-M.jpg http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/M...IMG_7773-M.jpg http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/M...IMG_7776-M.jpg http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/M...IMG_7805-M.jpg I'd initially convinced her there really was a baby crocodile in this bread! http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/M...IMG_7774-M.jpg Roadside stalls selling unusual items, and yes, I was tempted to get a life size Virgin Mary to go on the back of the bike http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/M...IMG_7777-M.jpg Buying petrol which is measured out of soft drinks bottles http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/M...IMG_7770-M.jpg A brush with the Law http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/M...IMG_7780-M.jpg We'd travelled from the dry desert landscapes of the west tot he lush jungle surroundings in the east http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/M...IMG_7793-M.jpg A puncture slows us down but our new friend Antonio soon has it in hand and gets us back on the road http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/M...IMG_7782-M.jpg http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/M...IMG_7783-M.jpg http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/M...IMG_7785-M.jpg The Librarian contemplates how many bananas she can fit in her luggage http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/M...IMG_7787-M.jpg while his Mum dispenses tea, http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/M...IMG_7792-M.jpg corrects my Mandarin to sound like her Cantonese and pets her chicken Big thanks to Antonio for helping us that day http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/M...IMG_7789-M.jpg We passed some cyclists http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/M...CIMG0170-M.jpg – a lot of them, obviously on some sort of tour and we were shouting “Bonne Chance” (Good luck in French) http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/M...CIMG0173-M.jpg until we noticed they had English words on their t-shorts and we slowed to chat to one of them- they’re British cyclists on a charity ride across Madagascar. We then went into full-on Tour de France mode, and were shouting out “Well done the Brits and Good Luck” It was worth it to see the looks of surprise on their faces when they heard our accents. We'd reached the Indian Ocean- the Librarian's first glimpse of it and no, I have no idea why she isn't smiling! http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/M...IMG_7794-M.jpg Tamatave – a town that always seems to be chaotic http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/M...CIMG0179-M.jpg http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/M...CIMG0181-S.jpg http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/M...CIMG0177-M.jpg Washing up – child labour http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/M...IMG_7800-M.jpg And we met these Spanish cyclists who were about to head north on Route National 5 – http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/M...IMG_7801-M.jpg we wished them luck, it’s definitely not a road I would want to attempt with a bicycle, it was bad enough all that sand with an engine attached to my two wheels! http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/M...IMG_7803-M.jpg We’re going in the opposite direction – to a tropical island, Ile aux Nattes just off the coast of the larger island Sainte Marie (as I know some of you like to know where we are). http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/M...IMG_7809-M.jpg |
Island Life- Tropical Indulgence
Not so many bike pictures, but wow, what a great time we had, it is THE perfect island with no traffic and no hustle and bustle.
Lemurs, dogs, palm trees, beaches, fresh fruit and veg delivery to our beach bungalow and final night cocktails and a posh meal. Sunset and time for a cocktail IN the sea http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/M...IMG_7861-M.jpg http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/M...IMG_7856-M.jpg we had a few tries at standing on the tree, the first time we had some help http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/M...IMG_7866-M.jpg but it looks more like a fight http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/M...IMG_7867-M.jpg The Librarian went out snorkelling http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/M...IMG_7876-M.jpg No she did NOT catch those fish herself http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/M...IMG_7880-M.jpg more animals than people on the beach http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/M...IMG_7892-M.jpg Cyclones are a regular occurrence, and we even spotted a Shelter Box tent - still being used after the last time a major one hit. http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/M...IMG_7899-M.jpg strange to think that this tent has come all the way from a small town near my house - Shelter Box is a Cornish charity that has gone global www.shelterbox.org take a look to see what they do - a simple yet extremely effective idea. the kids did a demo for me http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/M...IMG_7914-M.jpg http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/M...IMG_7915-M.jpg when I jumped, the photo came out looking very strange http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/M...IMG_7911-M.jpg this was as brave as I got with the tree http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/M...IMG_7918-M.jpg as you can see, the Librarian is a lot braver than me when it comes to heights http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/M...IMG_7919-M.jpg |
Still Tropical
The kids showed us a new game
http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/M...IMG_7815-M.jpg no one on the beach except us and Milo the dog http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/M...IMG_7810-M.jpg We heard howling in the woods and went to investigate - it was lemurs http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/M...IMG_7825-M.jpg this one was quite good at showing off http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/M...IMG_7835-M.jpg http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/M...IMG_7832-M.jpg http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/M...IMG_7823-M.jpg this JUST missed me http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/M...IMG_7838-M.jpg Genuine lemur poo. Tortoises as well http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/M...IMG_7842-M.jpg http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/M...IMG_7845-M.jpg Giant spiders http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/M...IMG_7846-M.jpg look closely and you can see the lemur leaping form one roof to another http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/M...IMG_7848-M.jpg http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/M...IMG_7847-M.jpg no vehicles on the island so the only traffic jam is caused by the geese, though why they were using the bridge when they can swim, I really don't know http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/M...IMG_7854-M.jpg http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/M...CIMG0211-M.jpg |
Loving the wildlife shots Tiffany ,the boabab trees are much taller than ours in Queensland but ours are bigger in circumference.:D:D
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You Reckon??
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I'm heading north now :mchappy: and I'll be checking out the Baobab up there which has a circumference of 21 metres:clap: Can you beat that? |
dying to know the outcome of this one
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Not a conversation I've come across often. |
Really?!
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back on line
Finally I can post again, there has been a problem with my computer which prevented me doing most things. And now I've lost the bottom line of things- and that's how I turn it off so this could get interesting.
anyway, a few more pics while I search to try and find the words to go with them whoops, maybe spoke to soon, looks like I have to re-start the PC again |
Sea Crossing
It was time to leave the island which was when things went wrong, I lost the keys, Ok, misplaced- first time in 16 years of travel. And then I also have to admit there was a bit of a language barrier and we missed the proper ferry back to the mainland – it left at the unearthly hour of 4.30 and yet I’d been told it always goes at 6.30am.
This was our alternative boat http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/M...IMG_7950-M.jpg The one in the foreground, at least it's got life jackets. And this was the one that Suzi would go in http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/M...IMG_7932-M.jpg – an open sea crossing and they crammed a LOT of bikes into what they were treating as a vehicle ferry http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/M...IMG_7935-M.jpg http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/M...IMG_7938-M.jpg http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/M...IMG_7937-M.jpg We think we look great in our life jackets! http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/M...IMG_7942-S.jpg http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/M...IMG_7944-M.jpg We overtook the vehicle ferry as it chugged its way across the ocean. http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/M...IMG_7947-M.jpg We still feel it was an added bonus was that we made it safely ashore to the mainland of Madagascar, we could easily still be floating around the Indian Ocean. and our luggage also made it (handy porter service) http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/M...IMG_7948-M.jpg As did Suzi and the mopeds http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/M...IMG_7953-M.jpg http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/M...IMG_7955-M.jpg http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/M...IMG_7957-M.jpg And we were soon on our way http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/M...IMG_7958-M.jpg |
Oh Dear, RN5 with a Pillion Rider
What I had neglected to tell my erstwhile pillion passenger was that this alternative ferry would dump us on a desolate bit of coast with 30kms of sand tracks to get to any decent road surface
http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/M...CIMG0221-M.jpg She took it in good spirit and when Suzi wasn’t able to carry the pair of us through the deeper sandy bits, the Librarian got off and walked! http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/M...IMG_7965-M.jpg Or ran! http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/M...IMG_7962-M.jpg For those of you who have been paying attention, I got her to run on this part as a re-enactment of an earlier pic from this section of sand. I said "I'm Sorry" to her a lot. And if she could ride sand I would have swapped places with her http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/M...IMG_7963-M.jpg We ran into a problem with some fishing ropes- these stretch for hundreds of yards from the water across the beach and beyond. http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/M...IMG_7964-M.jpg Luckily the librarian was behind me AND she has a loud voice as she was able to alert me before it became a problem. A much needed lunch break at this spot http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/M...IMG_7967-M.jpg Typical Madagascan fare, lost of fried things http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/M...IMG_7969-M.jpg Something very dodgy looking being sold in the pink bowl wrapped in bits of old paper, we weren’t brave enough to try them http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/M...IMG_7970-M.jpg though we had a go at most of the food items A river crossing or three on this route, all educational for my sister. What’s known as a Double Pirogue in the business, fairly standard for bikes bigger than a moped, or so I was assured. The pirogues are tied together and the passengers get in one boat while the bike is in the other. http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/M...IMG_7971-M.jpg I usually sit by the bike so that I can hold it steady if anything goes wrong http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/M...IMG_7972-M.jpg Back on solid ground... http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/M...IMG_7975-M.jpg …or so I thought! http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/M...IMG_7973-M.jpg I hadn’t approached this bank with enough revs and I paid the price. http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/M...CIMG0223-M.jpg The best petrol station in town http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/M...IMG_7976-M.jpg And then back on the road alongside the Indian Ocean with the opportunity to grab a quick swim on the beach http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/M...IMG_7978-M.jpg Through a palm tree plantation, I’m not sure what kind they are. http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/M...IMG_7987-M.jpg Our final picture together on Suzi http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/M...IMG_7959-M.jpg __________________ |
She's Leaving
Madagascar - Land of the bright green geckos
http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/M...IMG_7990-M.jpg http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/M...IMG_7992-M.jpg We're heading back to civilisation http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/M...IMG_7998-M.jpg A large boulder of rock being cut into pieces and sold at the roadside. http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/M...IMG_8003-M.jpg Back in Tana, we unloaded the bike. The Librarian had a go at riding Suzi, http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/M...IMG_8012-M.jpg and did well http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/M...IMG_8019-M.jpg Last street food- some of this sweet stuff, which looks dodgy but tastes nice http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/M...IMG_8016-M.jpg We posed for our final pictures together– photos taken by an eight year old, hence the unusual angle. http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/M...IMG_8010-M.jpg Then dodging the watchful gaze of the Gendarmerie at the airport car park (their uniform is identical to the one worn in France) http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/M...IMG_8025-M.jpg Librarian does a last bit of re-packing (in the airport) http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/M...IMG_8023-M.jpg And she’s gone. BACK TO SOLO TRAVEL To say thanks to our host for the great hospitality, I clean his KTM bike http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/M...IMG_8028-M.jpg http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/M...IMG_8030-M.jpg http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/M...IMG_8031-M.jpg The finished product - even Thelma never looked this clean http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/M...IMG_8033-M.jpg And then relax with a cold beer and an email session on the computer, http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/M...IMG_8037-M.jpg |
:thumbup1:
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So far so good.
Love the pics and I'm amazed at the number of water crossings. Are you doing that on purpose? Jamie |
G'day Tiffany ,enjoyed your post as always.
Sam (Manicom) put a link on to facebook this morning of your(Radio) interview,i must say i enjoyed your frankness.I have to admit to wondering how you are able to afford to travel so much,makes me reassess what i'm spending money on.Do you think you sister will get behind the bars on her own bike in the future? Anyhow you put life in my day,regards Noel:D |
All Over the Map-with Tiffany!
Butting in on Tiffany's page here to let all her fans know of her Podcast interview up now at Lorraine Chittock. Just scroll down to her picture, click on the download link and VOILA!
Great and fun chat between myself and the Queen of Adventure Riding. bier |
Heading East without the Librarian
Ah, yes Lonely Coates they call me now.
Suzi pops into the workshop Suzi was having a facelift before I left Tana http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/M...IMG_8041-M.jpg We'll be setting off east and Suzi is getting this fitted http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/M...IMG_8039-M.jpg a reappearance by Arsene the chef who also turns out to be a mechanic as he fits the larger fuel tank to Suzi and changes the colour scheme a bit. http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/M...IMG_8040-M.jpg So Suzi and I apparently now have about 300kms range, which will be useful. Heading out of Tana I pass the giant granite boulder which is still being chipped away http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/M...IMG_8042-M.jpg I can already see the difference from when I passed this way last time. http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/M...IMG_8043-M.jpg and the green paddy fields stretching away- apparently Madagascar is the only part of Africa where rice is grown, I must admit I haven't seen fields of rice like this apart from Asia and err, Iran http://d26ya5yqg8yyvs.cloudfront.net/eek7.gif yep, remember those pictures from a ride I did a couple of years ago?http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/M...IMG_8045-M.jpg Buildings change from scruffy concrete to mud http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/M...IMG_8047-M.jpg and there's still tarmac on the road In Andasibe, I got roped into doing a jungle walk http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/M...IMG_8062-M.jpg this was a guy attempting to get a giraffe necked weevil down out of the tree to show us what it looked like http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/M...IMG_8048-M.jpg I won't bother doing all the far away shots, I had to take as we made our way through the jungle catching glimpses of them, here is one of them closer...but what is it... http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/M...IMG_8067-M.jpg They've got faces like a koala, no tail and yet they're a type of lemur http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/M...IMG_8076-M.jpg called an Indri http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/M...IMG_8075-M.jpg |
Did you say "on purpose"?
Quote:
I'm as surprised as you are- I'm definitely NOT doing it on purpose as there are lots of delays, all the negotiations and then the actual reality of bobbing across a river, you and your precious bike- usually close to where it meets the sea, and as you know that is often the roughest and most unpredictable water. It makes you appreciate the infrastructure we have in the more developed countries- this harks back to a time when there were few roads and even fewer bridges, or bridges which have been washed away by cyclones..speaking of which... Wait until you see what is coming up. |
Radio Stuff
Quote:
I'm still waiting to get a good enough Internet connection and time to listen to the radio interview- Lorraine and I chatted for quite a long time and I'm now wondering exactly what I said! I'd love it if my sister got into bike travel- no one in my family even rides a motorbike, so none of that lot really understand although they've all had a pillion ride at some point. |
New Friends & Old
http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/M...IMG_8149-M.jpg
Bet you didn't know that Madagascar has crocodiles- so there I was thinking what a bonus it is to be able to camp in an African country and not have to worry about lions, when someone took me to see the crocs! Must remember not to camp near rivers and apparently these are just the small ones, look at this croc skin http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/M...IMG_8154-M.jpg someone else can do the maths, but I'm 5'6" tall and look who arrived in town? http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/M...G_8159sm-M.jpg It's Kim, the Korean guy on the Honda whom I last saw on the west coast a couple of weeks ago. Once more we're going in opposite directions but we had a couple of beers over dinner. And then in the morning he headed off into the jungle to look for Indri before heading into Tana where he returns his hire bike and gets his next flight onward to... well I can't think of a more extreme opposite to Madagascar at the moment, he's off to Icelandhttp://d26ya5yqg8yyvs.cloudfront.net/eek7.gifhttp://d26ya5yqg8yyvs.cloudfront.net/eek7.gif http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/M...G_8160sm-M.jpg Good luck Kim. And no, don't worry folks he hasn't been travelling like that 0 it's just his day kit. Another familiar face ( remember the flat tyre from a while ago?) I was passing through the same village and stopped to have a cup of tea with the family who helped. Antonio wasn't around but his Mum was, and she's carrying around a pic of Antonio sat on Suzi with my sister next to him http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/M...G_8162sm-M.jpg I think she has got an eye on my sister being her new daughter-in-law! I tried pointing out that I'm the single onehttp://d26ya5yqg8yyvs.cloudfront.net/icon10.gif Mango season has started and my favourite fruit is everywhere and very cheap http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/M...IMG_8157-M.jpg and then down the road, just as it started raining I saw these guys and pulled over to see if I could help http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/M...IMG_8167-M.jpg |
It Rained
Those blokes were simply out of fuel, and how pleased were they that I had stopped?!
They pulled out an old drinks bottle and had my fuel pipe off in seconds! http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/M...IMG_8164-M.jpg http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/M...IMG_8166-M.jpg back to their moped- amazed that I wouldn't take any money for the fuel they had taken They headed off, with a cheery wave and... http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/M...IMG_8168-M.jpg squeezing on with the hatted one's sister and her basket of shopping which was somehow crammed in between his knees. http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/M...IMG_8169-M.jpg The rain was heavy and made the rest of the day a bit grim for riding, I eventually stopped at a town which promised beach bungalows by the name of Tropicana (oh those days of Wham), but it didn't look very tropical, even when the deluge had stopped pouring http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/M...IMG_8170-M.jpg Down on the beach they were bringing in the day's catch http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/M...IMG_8172-M.jpg |
I Dropped Her
Whoops - wrong title and now I can't change it!
The day started peacefully enough, with watching this guy in the water, up to his neck in the lily pads http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/M...IMG_8183-M.jpg I'm not sure exactly what he was doing http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/M...IMG_8184-M.jpg Pulling up handfuls of roots and draping them over his makeshift raft. The first river crossing of the day, with a mechanised barc http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/M...IMG_8177-M.jpg Watching what appeared to be the whole village in the water perilously close to the massive breakers http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/M...IMG_8178-M.jpg getting the fish in http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/M...IMG_8179-M.jpg http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/M...IMG_8181-M.jpg http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/M...IMG_8203-M.jpg Some dirt tracks (no tarmac for a while- or at least some days...no one ever seems sure) these were fun to ride Then the first of the river crossings where the barc (barge) didn't appear to be operating http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/M...IMG_8185-M.jpg refreshments were on hand for those waiting http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/M...IMG_8189-M.jpg I was most disappointed to find that they had fish in them and so was she to find that I didn't eat fish as there were no other customers However, there was an alternative to the barc http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/M...IMG_8186-M.jpg Yep, the good old double pirogue although on closer inspection, this one didn't appear very seaworthy http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/M...IMG_8187-M.jpg I held my breath as they heaved Suzi onto it http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/M...IMG_8190-M.jpg Though actually, once we got going it didn't seem too bad http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/M...IMG_8193-M.jpg __________________ |
I Dropped Her
Just to prove there are some bridges in Madagascar
http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/M...IMG_8199-M.jpg It was a day of dirt and sand, the hours went by and the heat built up- I got tired and the inevitable happened Suzi had a lie down http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/M...IMG_8214-M.jpg I had a few attempts at heaving her back up http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/M...IMG_8218-M.jpg http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/M...IMG_8219-M.jpg http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/M...IMG_8220-M.jpg http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/M...IMG_8221-M.jpg In the end I had to take the bags off. I liked the look of this burnt tree http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/M...IMG_8223-M.jpg The ultimate shadow puppet http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/M...IMG_8227-M.jpg The sand turned to dirt and I out on a bit of speed, I was hoping to reach a town for the night so that I could have a beer, http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/M...IMG_8230-M.jpg Note to self - I've got to stop pulling the Daisy Duck face when I'm riding and then there it was, one more river to cross (I crossed four in total today, but I thought you wouldn't appreciate too many river crossings!) http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/M...IMG_8232-M.jpg these guys just really didn't seem to know what they were doing. So I showed them pictures on my camera from other pirogue crossings and so they started to rope these two together http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/M...IMG_8233-M.jpg They went a bit more fancy than Suzi and I are used to, with large poles holding the two pirogues together |
An Englishwoman who lives in Cornwall who doesn't eat fish. Now there's a thing! Great pics Tiffany!
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G'day Tiffany,enjoyed your post as always,hey it's mango season here too ,if i eat any more i'll look like a mango.
Glad your spill was not bad. I think if the loud Librarian ,gets on the front for a bit ,and can make her own decisions on where she goes,she will fall in love with our preferred method of travel.Bye for now regards Noel:D |
Mangoes
Funny you should mention the mangoes Noel - just yesterday I was taking a break from the mud and sat in the shade of a huge mango tree and as I sat there, the ripe ones were falling around me. At about the same speed at which I was eating them - a delight!
In the meantime, down in the market, the mangoes have reached the low price of 4 for 200 Ariary (6 pence). There is a possibility that I may get tired of them! |
Whoops
That idyllic looking final pirogue ride was not the best as the guys succeeded in dislodging the fuel pipe that leads out of the fuel tank on the left side. This mean that for the whole of the pirogue journey one of them sat there with his thumb over it to prevent petrol pouring out.
The scene on the opposite bank was comical as they attempted to unload whilst one person still had his thumb on it and then they pushed Thelma along the track to a mechanic's house http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/M...IMG_8237-M.jpg Don't ask me why it takes four of them when I can easily push the bike on my own. They were all a bit subdued and concerned about what my reaction would be about the damage to Suzi. The mechanic wasn't far away - he looks to be about 19 years old and operates out of his mother's front yard- a bit al fresco and casual but then this is Africa. http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/M...IMG_8239-M.jpg He got to work and seemed quite proficient so I left him to it- I had spotted a hotel not far away, and I was sweating like a pig all I could think was- room, cold shower - freshen up. http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/M...IMG_8241-M.jpg I returned to find the mechanic just finishing off, with the usual posse of friends all hanging around, what you can't see in this photo are the five or six younger lads also clustered and watching. http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/M...IMG_8240-M.jpg All sorted and no longer leaking. He charged me 5,000 Ariary (£1.66). Parking the bike at the hotel I went off in search of cold beer - maybe I'll push the boat out and have two!!http://s3.amazonaws.com/advrider/beer.gif There is always a slightly shocked response when I walk into a Bar over here - a woman on her own AND she's a foreigner. Especially in the out of the way places where they have very few foreigners, which this town was. But I never have any problems, and the beer is good over here. |
Mud Looming
Having checked that the repair was holding, the next morning I filled the fuel tank - yet again it's dispensed in old plastic bottles kept in a back room. This shop is actually attached to the hotel I stayed in, so I didn't have to go far
http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/M...IMG_8242-M.jpg There as a choice of routes out of town, this one appeared to be little more than a sandy path through the trees http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/M...IMG_8243-M.jpg So I went the other way...oh dear is all I can say. It started well enough http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/M...IMG_8248-M.jpg And there was even some wildlife action, as I almost ran over this snake, which was so engrossed in swallowing a frog that it ignored me http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/M...IMG_8245-M.jpg http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/M...IMG_8246-M.jpg http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/M...IMG_8247-M.jpg The track was pretty muddy and wet at times http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/M...IMG_8257-M.jpg |
Call the Cavalry
When approaching a large muddy pool, I would look for the footpath around it, sometimes these are little more than a few inches wide and are themselves on slippery mud AND a slope.
On this one, well, I did not drop the bike, but the front wheel slid sideways into the mud. http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/M...IMG_8260-M.jpg And as it was one of the very deep pools, I was not going to try and accelerate out http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/M...IMG_8262-M.jpg So I got off and gently laid Suzi down to have a think about the situation. Possibly a female way of dealing with the something like this. I then took the bags off, and attempted to get her upright again, first of all setting up the camera on a self-time mode, and so here is, over a 10 second period, me hoisting Suzi back to the upright position. http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/M...IMG_8263-M.jpg http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/M...IMG_8264-M.jpg http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/M...IMG_8265-M.jpg http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/M...IMG_8266-M.jpg and the track ahead?? Well it looks something like this http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/M...IMG_8267-M.jpg and this, with a helpful young cyclist showing me the best route through http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/M...IMG_8271-M.jpg |
Getting Worse
Me? The Bike? The Conditions? Or all three?
The zebu get through OK, though they also churn it up when there are a lot of them http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/M...IMG_8272-M.jpg They also sometimes make use of the narrow path around the edge- a route that I now call the Wall of Death http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/M...IMG_8273-M.jpg The day dragged one, with lots of tricky mud sections and hard work by me to negotiate them. It' was very hot and I was exhausted, I then started to drop the bike on silly sections - twice; and as I was feeling a bit sorry for myself and looking grim, I took a selfy to prove it http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/M...IMG_8274-M.jpg To my relief a village loomed and the locals took good care of me, producing a chair, a bowl of food and a drink...chilled?? Don't be silly! http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/M...IMG_8277-M.jpg It's never a good sign when the local ducks are using the road as their pond http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/M...IMG_8278-M.jpg http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/M...IMG_8279-M.jpg This was a picturesque bridge and I tried to persuade a local to take a photo of me crossing it- he completely refused and backed away, this was me, showing him what I meant about taking a photo http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/M...IMG_8280-M.jpg Frown/anxiety lines at their besthttp://d26ya5yqg8yyvs.cloudfront.net/icon10.gif |
"It's never a good sign when the local ducks are using the road as their pond"
Hahaha!!!!!! I'll say! I also think a chilled drink is waaaaaay overrated in certain situations! Well done! |
Mud Continues
The mud is slowing me down and I'm getting tired and yet there doesn't seem to be any end to it.
This guy stops for a chat, I get him to pose by his bike, wellies look like a very good idea http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/M...IMG_8295-M.jpg then he's off http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/M...IMG_8296-M.jpg The villages are very basic http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/M...IMG_8297-M.jpg I take a break for a while and decide to get a photo while I'm not on the move http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/M...IMG_8284-L.jpg Ahead of me, it looks like this http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/M...IMG_8291-M.jpg It's getting late in the day and I'm hoping this sign indicates the end of the mud, but there are no guarantees, the town on the kilometre post is not on my map. http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/M...IMG_8294-M.jpg |
Mud War
As you tune into this latest instalment of my ride, I bet you're wondering just how much more mud there can be - well so was I!
http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/M...IMG_8299-M.jpg My boots were not looking their best http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/M...IMG_8303-M.jpg I cringe to look back at my naivete in taking this "ooh, look how muddy I am picture" as ahead of me was Mud Armaggedon it was another of those narrow wall of Death paths along the side, which I rode along , or at least attempted to, and then suddenly the front wheel slipped and over we went http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/M...IMG_8304-M.jpg http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/M...IMG_8305-M.jpg whichever angle you look at it, it's not a pretty picture http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/M...IMG_8306-M.jpg I pulled myself up out of the mud, and grabbed my camera to take some pictures, setting up the self timer as well, though as I was in a hurry, I didn't quite get a perfect picture http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/M...IMG_8307-M.jpg But no time for details, Suzi is in the mud and gradually sinking further into it I got the bags off- despite being up to my elbows in the mud on the left side I still managed to unstrap the bags without a problem. I then heaved and strained but Suzi was stuck fast whilst I was just sinking deeper into the mud myself. So I had to wait, and sure enough, along came a young man who I persuaded to help me. 10 minutes later, we had Suzi back on semi-firm land, http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/M...IMG_8315-M.jpg and I looked a state http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/M...IMG_8311-M.jpg My helper was very camera shy and was almost as muddy as me, he went off to the nearest river and cleaned himself up. And Suzi's other side? Well that didn't look too good either http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/M...IMG_8316-M.jpg More muddy escapades followed as I slowly and painfully made my way south, till at last I reached tarmac once more and felt like crying. It was late by the time I made it to the first hotel, where they were shocked but very understanding about my state of extreme muddiness. I had to remove nearly all my clothes before actually going indoors (definitely no chance of a photo of that) and in the meantime they gave me a cold beer. http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/M...IMG_8318-M.jpg |
East Coast R&R
So, I'd tackled the mud, it had won the battle but I know there is still a war to come with it.
I'd made it to the town of Mananjary, a fairly quiet and laid-back place, with mopeds and zebu. http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/M...IMG_8322-M.jpg The lovely staff at the small hotel were heroes and while I was relaxing, they got to work and cleaned up Suzi in fact this was done the night I arrived as apparently this mud is BADhttp://d26ya5yqg8yyvs.cloudfront.net/eek7.gif news, it's the stuff they make the houses out of, and once it dries, it is like cement. So in the dark, I could hear the guy toiling with buckets of water, while I had a beer. The chamber maids had fun with ALL my clothing and the bags, which were amazing and came up looking like new. I wandered around the town, it's famous for its circumcision ceremonies, apparently they are held every seven years and they all get done at once in a fairly public way by the sounds of it. The next ceremony is due early 2014, and I have to say there were quite a few nervous looking boys in that town. One of the main crops in the area is peppercorns, and here they lay them out in the street to dry before packing - got to be careful not to step on them. http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/M...IMG_8320-M.jpg I had compose for lunch, the sold spaghetti with a range of toppings, this was the most basic yet, on a street corner without even a stool to sit on, the boys were in charge while their mum was at the market. http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/M...IMG_8319-M.jpg Here was a different use for a shipping container, put a thatched roof on it and you've got a house! http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/M...IMG_8324-M.jpg After a day of rest, and replacing the mirror- I'd lost it in the mud on the fall, I did notice it was missing at the time and groped around in the mud up to my elbows but couldn't find it. The cook from the hotel offered to show me where in the market to get a mirror and so she hopped on the back of Suzi and off we went. Soon returning with a pair of bright red gleaming mirrors attached, minimal choice at the market, and as to quality, well, on the way back from the market the glass fell out of one of themhttp://d26ya5yqg8yyvs.cloudfront.net/icon10.gif We retrieved it and stuck it back in. As I know things are going to get even trickier on the route ahead, they probably won't last long anyway. For the time being the road behaved itself and I made it down to Manakara on sort of tarmac, to find that the main bridge in town looked like this http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/M...IMG_8332-M.jpg A cyclone had blown through a couple of years ago. I decided to stay in this side of the bridge. It was swelteringly hot and I was trying to find a cybercafé, so hopped into the rickshaw, there are a lot of these in Madagascar http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/M...IMG_8331-M.jpg The view of my toes and the guy pulling the rickshaw. |
Looks Familair
My respite had been all too brief...
The road out of Vangaindrano and the mud is back with a vengeance. According to the guidebooks, the final 250kms stretch down to Fort Dauphin in the south east corner is one of the worst stretches of road in the country, and with Madagascar, that really is saying something http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/M...IMG_8341-M.jpg And around the corner it gets worse... http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/M...IMG_8340-M.jpg Still a bit of culture to be appreciated (or for me, any excuse to take my mind off the mud), some tombs - like nothing I've ever seen anywhere else. http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/M...IMG_8342-M.jpg then a brief rest from it as I await the ferry/barge, I know this is the first of at least 10 that I'll be facing on this stage of the trip as there are more than 10 major rivers to cross. http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/M...IMG_8345-M.jpg And here it comes http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/M...IMG_8347-M.jpg As I ride on to it, the blokes running it tell me there's a problem and that they don't have enough diesel for the journey across the river. I act dumb like I don't understand, which is pretty easy as everyone's face looks dumbstruck as they hear me speaking English and realise I'm not a French speaker (though I can be when I want to). These ferries are supposed to be free as they're government financed, in place of bridges. Luckily a car arrives behind me, they have the same conversation, but instead of giving them money for diesel, the driver lets them have some of his spare diesel (he's obviously used to this type of thing) http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/M...IMG_8348-M.jpg You can se the green tubing where they are siphoning off some of his diesel out of a jerry can in the boot. http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/M...IMG_8349-M.jpg I chat to the car driver and apparently it is quite genuine, there are problems getting the fuel from the main depots to the boats and therefore the guys are having to buy the fuel locally which they don't have a budget for. Things are in disarray in Madagascar, due to the lack of elected government, there was a coup a few years ago and they are just having elections now to sort out who will run the country. Public services are at a bit of a low. Sometimes I'm lucky and the mud has dried, creating a nice riding base. Whoops, that sounds a bit female, OK I'll say a decent riding surface. http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/M...IMG_8352-M.jpg http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/M...IMG_8353-M.jpg And then the landscape changes and looks a bit less tropical and well, a bit more like Scotland or any other place with moorland and open spaces. http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/M...IMG_8357-M.jpg In the valleys between the hills, I make the most of the rivers, by stopping to cool down, rinsing my gloves to wet them. http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/M...IMG_8360-M.jpg |
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Some really amazing shots,Tiffany ,i can see that there is much hard work to obtain them.I was talking with peter and kay Forward ,they said they quickly realized that the track on the side of bad roads were not the best of ideas as when you went down you went down hard ,so they just rode through the wet part.Mind you there's a world of difference between your suzi and their full dress Harley.Until next time ride safe Noel:D
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Between a Rock and a Hard Place
Trying to avoid some of the water, I head off the track, this is a picture from the "main road" where I'm standing in the water looking at my bike
http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/M...IMG_8367-M.jpg The landscape keeps changing from moorland to tropical with palms http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/M...IMG_8371-M.jpg Amazingly I come across evidence of construction, however, the bridge is not ready yet and I have to detour around it http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/M...IMG_8384-M.jpg I paused to get a standing picture of me and Suzi but the plant holding the camera wouldn't cooperate and dipped down as the photo was taken. http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/M...IMG_8380-M.jpg Little was I to know that this would be the last of the smiles for a while. My surroundings started to look like Scotland http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/M...IMG_8385-M.jpg The "road" turned to rock and became very steep, I managed to stop and even get a photo of the bike that almost manages to show how steep the slope was. http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/M...IMG_8386-M.jpg You can see the blur on the camera lens- yep, it had started to rain, just what I didn't need as ahead of me is a steep downhill to a river at the bottom and NO other way around - I'm scared (and I'm definitely no longer smiling) Here is the view looking back at the slope http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/M...IMG_8389-M.jpg Gingerly is the word for how I rode it, I turned Suzi downhill and just let her go, the rain wasn't helping, the surface was slippery and as I got closer I could see just how fast the water was running. Absolutely no chance of stopping to get a closer view of the river or the rock. http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/M...IMG_8390-M.jpg But I made it http://d26ya5yqg8yyvs.cloudfront.net/icon10.gif Up to the top of the next hill, where this unusual rock caught my eye http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/M...IMG_8391-M.jpg I even managed a smile for a selfy http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/M...IMG_8394-M.jpg |
That river crossing does indeed look scary, well done :clap:
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Your photos are brilliant at showing the difficulties that can be had with adventure motorcycling. While you may be 'having an adventure' and 'living the dream' I (and hopefully everyone else) really appreciate that you take the time to show the emotion and hardship that can be part of this lifestyle. It also proves that you are one tough cookie and even after all your years of travelling you're prepared to still get your hands (and clothes) dirty (and muddy). Great Ride Tale, great photos. Thanks so much. PN |
Cheers
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Thanks for the kind comments, and yes this is a very challenging trip and at times downright scary, especially as I'm on my own and if anything goes wrong...:helpsmilie: Cheers Tiffany |
Gimme Shelter
I scramble up some rocks to get a better view
http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/M...IMG_8396-M.jpg http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/M...IMG_8397-M.jpg And then the rain started pouring down with a vengeance, I huddled against the base of the rock expecting the storm to blow over fairly quickly and desperately trying to keep my camera dry. The ground rapidly became saturated and had a several inches of water running over it, which isn't a good sign. Not wanting to ride in the heavy rain but equally not wanting to get bogged down and stuck in such an exposed location I took to the trail once more. The muddy tracks were now torrents of water, disguising the gullies and rocks that are liberally dotted along it. I rode very, very carefully, up and down hill for several more miles. The only sign of "life" was this grave http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/M...IMG_8403-M.jpg the sole decoration being a zebu skull http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/M...IMG_8402-M.jpg Almost identical to the Giant Loop logo on my t-shirt. The rain was clearing as I approached yet another river, this one was big enough to warrant a ferry- the first people I'd encountered in several hours. http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/M...IMG_8404-M.jpg I was the only passenger and the crew were keen for a photo shoot and a chat! http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/M...IMG_8405-M.jpg http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/M...IMG_8406-M.jpg As soon as a camera appears, the faces change from wide grins to solemn features - Yes, they do want a photo, but it must be a cultural thing about not smiling in pictures. Coming off the ferry (again the no diesel story and a contribution to fuel costs requested) I wasn't sure exactly where I was, things weren't looking great as it had been another long day of riding, I was soggy and tired and had expected to arrive at the small town of Manantenina some time ago. I realised I must have missed the town, but having ridden onwards, I wasn't keen to turn around and re-trace my route. The sun was starting to set and so turning off the track I found a spot to put up my tent http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/M...IMG_8411-M.jpg I got it up just in time as the slight drizzle became a downpour, it wasn't a comfortable night as my bike gear was drenched and inside the tent with me, but I was just grateful to have finished riding for the day and with all my limbs intact! I had company in the night. I became aware of movement and looked up to see this orange blob on the side of the tent inner. http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/M...IMG_8409-M.jpg Closer inspection revealed...Kermit, catching insects attracted by my torchlight. Hope he's not a poisonous one I thought as I turned over and went to sleep. http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/M...IMG_8410-M.jpg I just hope he doesn't snore. |
Where Am I??
I'm not a natural with computers (incidentally after 4 weeks of not being able to shutdown my pc it has now suddenly started to let me do it again).
However as several people have asked me where I am and what am I doing, mainly my parents (!http://d26ya5yqg8yyvs.cloudfront.net/icon10.gif), I have managed to do a map/picture thing to give you all an idea. The first part of this trip I did a loop through the west and east coasts, part of that was the three week section with my sister, the Loud Librarian. I then made a plan (something that is a bit alien to mehttp://d26ya5yqg8yyvs.cloudfront.net/eekers.gif) and this is what I'm up to Tiffany's Plan http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/M...0Map%202-L.jpg My current location on this ride (where I'm sharing my tent with Kermit) is about three quarters of the way down that purple line on the east coast |
don't kiss kermit
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Froggy Details
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Festive Greetings
A short pause in this tale of riding in Madagascar as I wish you all a happy and healthy festive season wherever you are and however you celebrate
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Cakes, Chainsaws and Crackers- Christmas with Coates
It was a great Christmas with my brothers, sisters, extended family and friends at my parents' house.http://d26ya5yqg8yyvs.cloudfront.net/clap.gifhttp://d26ya5yqg8yyvs.cloudfront.net/clap.gif
The day after Christmas, I was out in the garden with my Dad helping him to replenish his log pile - no I didn't get the chainsaw for Christmas (I got mine two years ago and it's kept at my house but if I had known we'd be sawing wood I would have brought it over and had a chainsaw duel with my Dad), however I AM wearing my Secret Santa hat http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/O...IMG_9219-L.jpg Many thanks for the Christmas wishes, I hope you all had a good one. And now on with the story of my ride around Madagascar - as you know I'm safely home, so you'll know it all ended well....sort of!! |
Hunting for Breakfast
So, where was I?
http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/M...IMG_8410-S.jpg that's right, wild camping in the middle of nowhere with this little fellow for company inside my tent (I've been warned not to lick themhttp://d26ya5yqg8yyvs.cloudfront.net/eek7.gif) It poured with rain for half the night, but luckily it was dry when I got up Time to savour the morning http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/M...IMG_8415-M.jpg Then take the tent down, pack up, do my hair... http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/M...IMG_8421-M.jpg and head south http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/M...IMG_8428-M.jpg I 'd only had minimal breakfast, so stopped at the first village I saw - maybe 10 miles of trails from my start point, I asked around who was serving tea and was introduced to this old lady http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/M...IMG_8433-M.jpg She's sat on her verandah dispensing tea to the villagers in chipped enamel mugs for the princely sum of 2 pence. A neighbour supplied the "doughnuts". The mud, sheet rock and pouring rain from yesterday was but a faint memory as I enjoyed the food, drink and some company. |
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