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Nepal 2014
2014 was a good year: for various reasons, we had the opportunity to exaggerate, so after Nicaragua in February and Mongolia in the summer, in November we were able to take even a trip to Nepal
22/11/2014 We arrive in Kathmandu, the city is chaotic but fascinating, so we spend the day walking around https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-e...2014.11.45.jpg 23/11/2014 It's the day we have to pick up the bike and start our journey, but the morning starts with a bad surprise: the guy from bikemandu, from which I had booked the bike months before, a Royal Enfield Classic 350, sends me an email saying that the bike I had booked is not available, because of unspecified problems, but he has an alternative, albeit without luggage racks. I'm not discouraged, and I reply that I'm going to his place: we are in Asia, and a solution is usually easy to find, I think. When we arrive there is no alternative. The only bike he has is already booked by another customer, and it doesn't seem to be in good conditions. The guy asks me if I want to see the "alternative" bike and of course the answer is yes: the bike is not there and we need to wait. Ok no problem. After two hours two guys arrive, riding a pair of Bullet pissing oil everywhere. Obviously it is not the solution I was hoping for, but I ask for the price, imagining that it is lower than the one agreeded for the bike now absent. No: the price is the same, the guy says it's a low price for the market, he isn't collaborative and we have already lost a morning. After his wife intervenes to support their reasons, I send them lovingly to hell and I go away. The day before I saw bike rental shops in Thamel, the tourist district, and I suppose to be able to find an alternative: in the worst case we will tour Nepal on a Bajaj Pulsar. So our plan, as often happens in Asia, is thrown in the trash the first day. No problem: the guys from the rental shops are much more friendly and everyone tells me to come back in the evening when I will have the opportunity to see more bikes and choose the one i like. We are sure that the next day we will have a bike for us, so we spend the rest of the day to go sightseeing https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-J...2/DSC_0015.JPG https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-3...2/DSC_0025.JPG https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-4...2/DSC_0026.JPG https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-r...2/DSC_0027.JPG https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-J...2/DSC_0031.JPG https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-g...2/DSC_0040.JPG https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-y...2/DSC_0047.JPG https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-M...2/DSC_0054.JPG https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-e...2/DSC_0056.JPG https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-k...2/DSC_0058.JPG https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-h...2/DSC_0063.JPG https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/--...2/DSC_0065.JPG https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-l...2/DSCF4537.JPG https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-X...2/DSC_0066.JPG https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-W...2/DSC_0071.JPG https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-v...2/DSC_0076.JPG https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-w...2/DSC_0079.JPG https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-q...2/DSC_0087.JPG https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-T...2/DSCF4546.JPG https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-N...2/DSC_0102.JPG https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-T...2/DSC_0107.JPG https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-2...2/DSC_0118.JPG https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-f...2/DSC_0124.JPG https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-C...2/DSC_0133.JPG https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-X...2/DSC_0143.JPG https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-U...2/DSC_0145.JPG https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-m...2/DSC_0158.JPG https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-x...2/DSC_0162.JPG https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-i...2/DSC_0163.JPG |
At evening we return at the most friendly and professional looking rental shop.
They offer us to choose between a few bikes and we select a Bajaj Pulsar 220 with some scraps but only 2000 km and a Royal Enfield Classic 350 with 8000 km, both coming with soft side bags. Having tried both, I succumb to the allure of the Enfield. The price at the end of negotiations, it's the same I had from bikemandu - so it was not a low price. I ask them to give me, the next morning, at least a spare tube. 24/11/2014 The bike comes as promised, plus even some cable and spark plug replacement. Loaded it, we let what is left out of our bags at the hotel and we are ready to go. https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-V...2006.16.40.jpg You need to drive on the left, as in England, but it's not particularly problematic to me, the traffic is ... oh well https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-i...2/DSCN1785.JPG https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-d...2/DSCN1786.JPG https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-3...2/DSCN1788.JPG https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-p...2/DSCN1789.JPG On the way I try to be very careful and cautious: seeing a truck overtaking and in the wrong lane sticking out from behind a blind curve is pretty much the normality. The meaning of a flashing is something like this "I know very well that I am in your lane, but I'm not going to move, so I'm flashing to tell you that if you want to avoid a front crash you must slow down and throw you to the side because I do not give up" with a smile, of course. But is not all that bad ... https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-C...2/DSCN1801.JPG https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-W...2/DSCN1802.JPG https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-2...2/DSCN1814.JPG https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-o...2/DSCN1822.JPG Sometimes it is even worse https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-Z...2/DSCN1824.JPG https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-G...2/DSCN1825.JPG After at least a 5 hour ride, we reach Pokhara. |
And price for rental was ??:D
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25/11/2014
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-U...2/DSC_0247.JPG We have to decide: do we go high in the mountains or not? The ascent and descent to/from Muktinath would require at least 5 days from what they tell us, the season would be the right one, but doing it two up would require some effort. The bike so far has been good: it just needs a little welding. Usually, in these situations, I'm not the one who is able to say "no", but this time is different: we're enjoying Nepal and the time we have is not the longest one. Any problem on the way to Muktinath could cause us to lose days and keep us from seeing much of the rest of the country. We decide to abandon the idea, this time we'll visit the part of Nepal more easily accessible. We intend to return for a second trip, so Sabrina will satisfy her desire for trekking, while I will enjoy the dirt without a passenger, perhaps with some other friends. So today we stay in Pokhara, taking it easy https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-7...2/DSC_0253.JPG https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-u...2/DSC_0262.JPG https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-1...2/DSC_0270.JPG https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/--...2/DSC_0276.JPG https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-g...2/DSC_0277.JPG https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-l...2/DSC_0283.JPG https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-8...2/DSC_0284.JPG https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-T...2/DSC_0290.JPG In the afternoon we visit the village of Tibetan refugees of Tashi Palkel https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-F...2/DSC_0293.JPG https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-b...2/DSC_0295.JPG https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-4...2/DSC_0296.JPG https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-E...2/DSC_0297.JPG https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-c...2/DSC_0298.JPG https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-R...2/DSC_0310.JPG https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-0...2/DSC_0320.JPG https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-R...2/DSC_0325.JPG https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-G...2/DSC_0327.JPG https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-G...2/DSC_0333.JPG And then up to Sarangkot to take a look at the mountains https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-z...2/DSCF4603.JPG https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-R...2/DSCF4605.JPG After sunset we return to town for a beer at Bullett Base Camp. The restaurant is currently closed, but some of the regulars are still there in front for a chat and a few bottles recovered from the shops nearby ... |
26/11/2014
Back to Sagarkot for some views of the mountains https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-m...2/DSC_0337.JPG https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-U...2/DSCF4624.JPG https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-r...2/DSC_0343.JPG https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-3...2/DSCF4626.JPG https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-L...2/DSC_0349.JPG https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-c...2/DSC_0369.JPG Then to Bullet Base Camp to say goodbye.. https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-W...2/DSCN1848.JPG A coffe.. https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-B...2/DSCN1853.JPG https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-V...2/DSCN1857.JPG And we are ready to go. Today we ride the Siddhartha Highway, twisty and beautiful, but with less traffic than the Kathmandu-Pokhara https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-_...2008.06.48.jpg https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-w...2/DSCN1863.JPG https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-L...2/DSCN1865.JPG https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-4...2/DSCF4643.JPG https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-u...2/DSCF4645.JPG https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-Y...2/DSCN1869.JPG https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-q...2/DSCN1873.JPG https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-S...2/DSCN1875.JPG https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-A...2/DSCN1878.JPG https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-x...2/DSCN1882.JPG https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-N...2/DSCN1889.JPG https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-m...2/DSCN1895.JPG https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-X...2/DSCN1902.JPG https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-0...2/DSCN1907.JPG https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-Z...2/DSCN1911.JPG https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-V...2/DSCN1915.JPG https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-j...2/DSCN1919.JPG https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-E...2/DSCN1920.JPG https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-d...2/DSCN1922.JPG https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-9...2/DSCN1924.JPG We arrive in Tansen (Palpa), where we stop for the night https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-V...2/DSCN1930.JPG |
27/11/2014
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-w...2/DSCN1938.JPG https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-9...2/DSCN1948.JPG https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-s...2/DSCN1949.JPG https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-S...2/DSCN1953.JPG https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-_...2/DSCF4651.JPG https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-g...2/DSCF4652.JPG https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-K...2/DSCN1966.JPG https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-S...2/DSCF4658.JPG https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-y...2/DSCN1971.JPG After a great breakfast and a visit to the city, we go south https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-X...2/DSCN1988.JPG https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-w...2/DSCN1989.JPG https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-S...2/DSCN1992.JPG https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-3...2/DSCN1998.JPG https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-6...2/DSCN2000.JPG https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-s...2/DSCN2001.JPG https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-N...2/DSCF4662.JPG https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-t...2/DSCF4671.JPG https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-L...2/DSCN2007.JPG https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-j...2/DSCN2008.JPG https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-f...2/DSCF4676.JPG https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-9...2/DSCF4679.JPG https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-h...2/DSCN2015.JPG Until the lowlands where Lumbini is https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-Q...2/DSCN2020.JPG https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-w...2/DSCN2021.JPG |
Lumbini is the place where the first Buddha is supposed to be born.
Not that much to see, except for a park with recently builded temples. https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-B...2/DSCF4698.JPG https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-E...2/DSCF4705.JPG https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-p...2/DSCF4710.JPG https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-A...2/DSCF4711.JPG https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-Z...2/DSCF4726.JPG https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-A...2/DSC_0384.JPG https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-P...2/DSC_0386.JPG https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-t...2/DSC_0389.JPG https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-E...2/DSC_0390.JPG https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-u...2/DSC_0406.JPG https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/--...2/DSC_0414.JPG https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-S...2/DSC_0426.JPG https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-T...2/DSC_0428.JPG https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-O...2/DSC_0430.JPG The small village close to the entrance is there mostly beacause of tourists https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-k...2/DSC_0433.JPG 28/11/2014 "Cristiano, let's go to the next bar, 'cause I think I saw Jesus Christ there" says Sabrina at the end of our breakfast. I don't know if I need to be worried about her health or if the mysticism of the place had some effect, but I follow her. At the bar next door there's a guy dressed in a white robe looking familiar. I can avoid to photograph him, so I sling immediately on the terrace of our guesthouse https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-j...2/DSCF4770.JPG https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-K...2/DSCF4771.JPG and I take the shoot https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-0...2/DSC_0444.JPG https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-4...2/DSC_0447.JPG https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-E...2/DSC_0448.JPG I don't want to judge, but I will only say that some western people makes things a bit strange, in Nepal. I have seen many walking downtown barefoot, others dressed as holy men, one as well as Sandokan: there is something for all tastes. Then we leave again, this time to the east https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-0...2/DSCN2023.JPG https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-2...2/DSCN2032.JPG https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-E...2/DSCN2034.JPG https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-I...2/DSCN2047.JPG Until we rach Sauraha, a small village close to Chitwan national park https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-i...2/DSCF4779.JPG https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-i...2/DSCF4792.JPG https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-3...2/DSCF4810.JPG https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-M...2/DSCF4811.JPG |
29/11/2014
The park can be visited in four different ways: by foot, elephant, canoe or jeep. After we changed our minds a dozen times, we decide that a four hours jeep tour is what it does for us, in the afternoon. We spend the morning walking around https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-D...2/DSCF4815.JPG https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-6...2/DSCF4829.JPG https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-v...2/DSCF4832.JPG https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-G...2/DSCF4842.JPG https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-Z...2/DSCF4845.JPG https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-L...2/DSCF4847.JPG https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-B...2/DSCF4848.JPG https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-V...2/DSCF4855.JPG https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-e...2/DSCF4857.JPG https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-H...2/DSCF4858.JPG https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-B...2/DSCF4870.JPG https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-C...2/DSCF4871.JPG https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-Z...2/DSC_0452.JPG https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-M...2/DSC_0456.JPG https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/--...2/DSC_0459.JPG https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-u...2/DSC_0460.JPG https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-u...2/DSC_0461.JPG https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-S...2/DSC_0464.JPG https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-a...2/DSC_0470.JPG https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-5...2/DSC_0473.JPG https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-1...2/DSC_0476.JPG https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-b...2/DSC_0479.JPG |
to cross the river, the same one where I photographed the crocodiles, there's a short canoe crossing: let's say I prefer to have wheels and ground under my butt
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-0...2/DSCF4872.JPG https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-0...2/DSCF4875.JPG https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-v...2/DSCF4879.JPG https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-O...2/DSCF4885.JPG https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-J...2/DSC_0481.JPG at the other side, a jeep is waiting for us https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-c...2/DSCF4888.JPG https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-O...2/DSC_0484.JPG we see tiger's footprints https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-Z...2/DSC_0486.JPG deers, some more crocodiles, wild boars https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-I...2/DSC_0489.JPG https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-m...2/DSC_0491.JPG https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-v...2/DSC_0493.JPG https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-c...2/DSC_0496.JPG https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-e...2/DSC_0497.JPG https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-g...2/DSC_0499.JPG no tigers and no rhinos, so we are a little disappointed. But at some point, on the way back ... https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-m...2/DSC_0506.JPG https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-6...2/DSCF4896.JPG https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-_...2/DSCF4897.JPG Satisfied for the friendly encounter, in the evening we eat on the small tables of a local restaurant https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-R...2/DSCF4902.JPG |
30/11/2014
Some local traffic in front of us while we are eating breakfast https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-T...2/DSCN2062.JPG https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-C...2/DSCN2065.JPG https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-j...2/DSCN2068.JPG https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-T...2/DSCN2073.JPG https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-u...2/DSCN2088.JPG We reach Daman, which should be a scenic spot on the Himalayas. It's foggy, so no view. https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-U...2/DSCN2090.JPG https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-N...2/DSCN2091.JPG https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-i...2/DSCN2094.JPG https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-A...2/DSCN2096.JPG https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-f...2/DSCN2097.JPG https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-P...2/DSCN2098.JPG https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-q...2/DSCN2103.JPG https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-a...2/DSCN2104.JPG Then we meet Alexandre, who, after years in Nepal, is beginning his return home to France today, on his Enfield https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-F...2/DSCN2105.JPG In the evening we arrive to Bhaktapur 1/12/2014 https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-s...2/DSC_0520.JPG https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-w...2/DSC_0526.JPG https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-d...2/DSC_0528.JPG https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-L...2/DSC_0532.JPG https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-Z...2/DSC_0533.JPG https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-9...2/DSC_0534.JPG https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-6...2/DSC_0537.JPG https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-Y...2/DSC_0540.JPG https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-D...2/DSC_0553.JPG |
Lovely photos. Great report. I worked in Nepal as a tour guide on the late '90s and you've made me "homesick" for the place!
I think the bike hire is pretty reasonable - compare it with European prices! Apart from welding, how is the bike holding up, and would you recommend the company you used? Thanks for sharing your story, Ride safe, Simon. |
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I was also happy with the guy who I rented it from. Here's his card https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-E...2018.57.39.jpg https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-a...2018.57.01.jpg |
We ride to Nagarkot in the morning, but it's foggy, so no views on the Himalaya
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-l...2/DSCN2108.JPG https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-v...2/DSCN2109.JPG So we go back to Bhaktapur to visit the city https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-O...2/DSC_0556.JPG https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-y...2/DSC_0574.JPG https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-t...2/DSC_0575.JPG https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-h...2/DSC_0579.JPG https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-S...2/DSC_0584.JPG https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-o...2/DSC_0586.JPG https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-M...2/DSC_0588.JPG https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-V...2/DSC_0591.JPG https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/--...2/DSCF4926.JPG https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-h...2/DSCF4932.JPG https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-9...2/DSC_0605.JPG https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-V...2/DSC_0606.JPG https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-J...2/DSCF4936.JPG https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-O...2/DSC_0615.JPG https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-d...2/DSC_0619.JPG https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-B...2/DSC_0624.JPG https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-D...2/DSCF4938.JPG https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-s...2/DSC_0628.JPG https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-9...2/DSC_0629.JPG https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-I...2/DSC_0631.JPG https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-4...2/DSC_0634.JPG https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-c...2/DSC_0635.JPG https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-T...2/DSC_0640.JPG https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-q...2/DSC_0642.JPG https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-0...2/DSC_0646.JPG https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-f...2/DSC_0653.JPG https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-p...2/DSCF4943.JPG https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-2...2/DSC_0658.JPG |
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