South along the coast
 

After a little over !00 miles I saw a sign that read 'playa' something. A new spanish word for me that means something like 'beach', I turned down a dirt road and after a couple of miles of it getting worse, I stopped turned around and turned off the motor to get a foto. Then I could hear the roar of the surf! I turned arould again and proceeded to find a small group of surfers. Complete with a surf tour guide! I have forgotten everybody's name. I took no notes. Turns out this is a special, hard to find surfing spot. We chatted, took fotos, looked at maps and pretty soon they went back to their hotel. They seemed like straight arrow, stand up guys. I waded through that waist high laggon with camping gear in hand and set up camp. Before the trip, I took swiming lessons at the WMCA, then swam at Golds Gym and I still swim poorly. It scares me. I hope that, if needed, I can get back in the boat. That small grey thing in the last picture is my bike under it's cover.

Skinny dipping in the moon light...
 

The view from my tent and from slightly up the beach where I found the water suprisingly warm and the current suprisingly strong. Also, in the morning from across the lagoon.

The road out
 

A street guy riding a top heavy, fully loaded and taller KLR on pure street tires pumped up to 36 psi and comeing in I had no good idea of what was ahead. I found it exciting.

Hello From Bruce
 

Mike i hope all is well i hope you are having fun larry from the jafi told me to look you up on here i will follow more of your trip now. Be safe and keep having fun. Love you Man. Bruce

looks exciting
 

Really enjoy the updates and the photos. The last looks like my kind of riding. Enjoy, we're in you corner. :thumbup1:

Mac

Mike very much enjoying following your travels
 

Reading your report you make me more at ease with what to expect when travelling in that part of the world.Travel safe.Noel:scooter::D:thumbup1:

support..
 

I am glad somebody enjoys the post and I am pleased to be helpful. Who was it that said , 'If you can go on a holiday'...you can do this. Well, it is kinda true. Some holidays have a few more details..... Bruce, please spread da news at jafi, to all that might be intrested. Keep me updated when you can. mike PS: I must add I had good help and nothing would have worked well for me if I were younger

Hi
we are across the border and are now in Zacatecas for a few days. I am enjoying your blog. We will be in Oaxaca Oct 25 or 26 i think. Safe travels. Sara

saralou
 

I'm sure you will enjoy Oaxaca. They have shopping and great dining and jazz. It is a charming town. The 180 churches take turns setting off large fireworks to promote themselves. Sounds like July 4 in the USA! Enjoy. mike

Across the vally to SanCristobal
 

Right after breakfast, I spotted this place. I just bet it is better to pay $10 or $ 20us more for a tire early than it is to not have any options later. I was not a lot early. It was a cheap brand I have never heard off and was marked at $1200 ($90us) I wrote $1000 on a piece of paper and smiled. The owner wrote $1100 and I said ok. ($82.50us) The other two tires I have been hauling around ... well, I had them from the trades I had made before I left and I could leave them behind or maybe use them up in Costa Rica. Or I can leave them behind any time I want. Did I say it was windy? These guys are taking wind power seriously. Scott Haskins and I rode together briefly but it looked like rain and it was already a long day for me, so I got a room and he tried to miss the rain. Before leaving I took a quick trip to the 'banos' (an important word that means toilet) and I found a baby in a bucket on the way. Bath day for the child.

Over the mountain
 

It was really a great ride from San Christobal to Palenque. The road was 95% good, but did have a few surprises. On some tight right handers, with my tire 6" or a foot from that painted line, I would sometimes get my head over that wall far enough to suddenly get a view off a 1000 foot cliff! Bulged my eyes right out.

Chiacas
 

I found these two bad boys in traffic, at a red light, traveling to their next stop on the beer truck. I stopped here thinking that maybe they had time to tell me where the local Kawasaki dealer is. They were not interested ... had never heard of Kawasaki etc. I left.

On the mountain
 

I stopped here for a cold drink. A view from directly behind the store and also, off into the distance

More mountain
 

That is a tree, on top off a rock, on the side of the road. Did not look like much soil on the rock. It was all day at altitude. Those sticks, with the wires on them, are used to support vines. Some tough guy raises a crop there and hikes up and down that hill tending it. A lot of crops are raised on these hill sides.

Strange mix
 

I can not read this and need not. One is a stencil of a police/army beating a couple. I left soon.

Mike it great meeting you in Mexico. I am glad you are still riding safe. Right now I am in Antigua, Guatemala until 13OCT12. Keep Riding, Raymond.

Eclectic male
 

It was good to chat. Too bad that two guys, that have got all the time in the world, only get a half hour! I will be in somewhere in ca in a bout a week. Thanks for being around. mike

jkk
 

Some of the girls shook their booty a little to draw a crowd and then there was a morality play complete with large white labels for the characters and wise old birds to make sure the dance went well. I almost do not see any motos of this style at all. Note that, other than lenth and angle, the forks work as stock. All that 'springer' looking stuff is decorative and has no function at all. The springs are for show. 150cc......WOW....

Coming to the flat land
 

Just about the cutest 250cc single I have ever seen. The vegetation began to change as I came down the hill.

After Palenque
 

Somehow I knew that the main road turned right. And I should turn right at the Mayan woman with the hair. And then I got into some big sky riding. When I stopped for a foto, this guy and several others stopped to check on me. He carries that knife in the scabbard on the side of his bike. He probably cuts vegetation along the high way with it. Nice kid.

To the Gulf
 

Another helpful man with the catch of the day. His catch, his beach, his boat....

That last photo of you sitting on the beach looks straight out of the movie Shawshank Redemption.

I guess you sort of did escape from prison in a way. Love following along with your stories and pics.

Keep up the good work! Much appreciated.

Kindest regards,
John Downs

About that extra, extra tire
 

From out my hotel window in Champoton. And in the morning, that tire that I was going to replace in another 100 miles was flat. It is easier for a nail to do it's evil on a thin, worn tire. Pretty soon this crew appeared and I moved to better shade and had plenty of help. No fotos of the work as I was in full thrash mode. New tube and a new tire. Afterwards Juan Pablo Areano and I spent about an hour on the computer together. I tried to feed everyone but they would have none of it. I bought a round of cokes.

Another rain ride.
 

A good example of a tope (speed bump). I prefer them to cops that need to produce. With the water about 6" below the surface, people are buried above ground. It started to rain and with that it got dark quickly. I arrived tired, dirty and wet to this hotel. $160 (12.00us) Again, I was treated like royalty. In the morning there was a young woman that was fascinated with me and I would not have misunderstood her had she not followed me into my room, sat on my bed and smiled. That and my own agendas. She was a 'farm girl' that had never seen a tall, white american etc. I made my amends as best I might.

" . . . . . In the morning there was a young woman that was fascinated with me and I would not have misunderstood her had she not followed me into my room, sat on my bed and smiled. That and my own agendas. She was a 'farm girl' that had never seen a tall, white american etc. I made my amends as best I might."

Hmmmm . . . . "I would not have misunderstood . . . had she not followed me
and you "made amends as best I might."

Huh? :innocent::helpsmilie::clap:

Merida
 

That small town with the starry eyed school girl (well of age I will add), had this piece of art work on the edge of town. I really am a gearhead. This guy and I admired each others ride in traffic. Details..... I always put my glasses down on top of my gloves but this morning I needed to reach in my pocket to produce a paper with address for asking directions so I put the gloves under a bunge strap and forgot about the glasses for maybe 10 minutes. As it turns out, I back tracked to find this. I have a spare set, but not anymore. Walking by a maternity hospital I stepped in to find all this greenery and not so many people. I understand abortion is legal and free in Mexico. Oh yeah, I spotted this paramedic at a red light.

more confusion
 

Mid town in a small Mayan village. I stopped at a 'motorcycle shop' and had to notice this 250cc single. The owner set the sag (kinda) on the klr and he wanted no pay. I gave him a handful of small coins. I spotted this startling piece of work and went inside to visit the museum. Then this woman gave me the full sales pitch, made from this, made this way by guys like this one (for less than $10us a day is my guess) She was charming, professional and spoke in 85%+ english.

They had a lotta stuff
 

I took about 80 fotos and during the sales pitch mentioned that this would go up on the internet and she then viewed me as a critic or an advertising guy or whatever... They get large busses filled with people and sell their authentic mayen stuff to the cruise ship people. I don't think the Jaguar God ever sacrificed a large breasted woman. I think the priests did all that sort of thing, if they did women at all. Trustworthy accurate info is not easy to find. I don't think large cats licked the girls either. It is very well done to a high stqndard and suits their market very well. The chess set was something over $5000 (pasos) and weighted maybe twenty pounds. I bet it hard to get those numbers right after a shot or two from their bar.

Xbackslider
 

Simple. It was/ is my job to understand when some one is mis-relating or misleading and causing confusion. It is not easy work sometimes. This looks just like a new Yamaha RD100cc. A little compression and a fancy exhaust pipe and then go pick on all those 150cc Hondas etc.

John Downs
 

Just read ALL of your ride report and all I gotta say is:' Put down the computer and get on the motorcycle'. Post a little something from Texas ... I just loved the report and we likely will cross paths if you don't zig-zag as much as I have. To be fair, friends had a going away party for me and I left some 40 days later. Had a good reason at all times. Some friends began to hassle kinda me. But now sailing to Venezuela sounds right to me. About this green meanie, I don't much care for this style, but I have seen so few and so much effort has been put into it. I am sure being very rare makes it easier for me to find it intresting. Not sure if it is 150cc or 250cc. I think it is owned by the guy with the real dump of a shop that set my shock for free. mike

good stuff keep it coming

Getting ready for Coba
 

In the small town of Chemax, after riding up and down both major streets, I could not find a hotel. Stopping on the town square I asked a woman for help. She made a couple of calls and after not being able to give me directions ask/told another woman, younger, to ride her bicycle to the hotel with me following on the motorcycle. It was not complete but I got one of the very few rooms in town. I was told to use two chairs by the brassy (but sometimes bashful) girl that worked at the only place I could find to eat. Was my impression that she worked with her sister and mother. After I fell using only one chair, nobody seemed to have trouble understanding ....'Can you say, shit for brains?' When I stopped for gas at the pmex station 3 miles from Coba which is the tallest pyramid in Mexico, The taller guy did a slight of hand with my $200 note and it became a $50 note. I wasn't ready and thought 'you got me %&^&&' and then when I produced a $500 note, he/they tried to short change that one too!! I kinda lost it a bit and got the right change for that one. Tonight and in the morning he/they will still be a sleaze bags and I will be out about $15us. I went back later and got this foto. When I got my tickets at Coba $57 (4.50us) I was told a guide will be $750 for an hour and a half ($56us). I declined to offer.

Coba
 

From to bottom, on the top, one view from above. Note that there are no guard rails...

In the jungle
 

Me about 25 feet into the mostly cleared jungle. This guy let out a deep gutural sound, kinda like my bike, when I got too close. There was raw meat in the cage and it did not want me to get it. NOT a pet and not going to be one. Stopped by a recovery house kinda place and had lunch in this kitchen/dining area. Supplies from town.

Playa del Carmen
 

Rode after dark again. But, the freeway is easier than dark city streets. Found a nice room, with a flush toilet and ac and stuff. Pricey, but it was late and it was the best I could do. In the morning I got a good breakfast for $33 ($2.42us) from the trunk of this guys car. Lunch caught me out at $132 ($10.00us!). It was nothing special. I found the beach and several cruise ships.

So, how far is it across to Cuba? Can you get on a boat to do that from Cancun?

Mike another entertaining episode
 

enjoying your tale very much ,carry on,Noel:D

I can't wait till you make the next FBR gathering and the tails around the campfire start !!

To Chetumal
 

It is a tossup as to weather Cancun to Havana or Miami to Havana is closer. I don't think the Cruise Ships are set up for a stop in Cuba. I did not check. Before Castro, Americans had a lot of influence in Cuba. My uncle lost some property when he took over, a car , a business and I'm not sure. But I gotta get away from Cruise Ship people. This is the step that a go up every night to store the bike safely. The bags are about as wide as the handle bars and the seat is way off the ground. I always get stopped halfway up the ramp when it is even farther to the ground. Something over 46 inches I guess.... Using the ceiling fan to spin dry some stuff that I rinsed out in the sink. That way I don't wait till 5 pm to pick up my laundry, to late to travel. I pulled all this stuff out of the forks. Pvc pipe, a special bmw fork spring spacer, a factory piece and two hardware store lock washers that I made flat. All this to set the preload/sag and I got it a little firm or too much. I left out one lock washer and now it almost glides over the topes (big speed bumps) I may take another washer out or move some weight forward. This is part of how forks were adjusted before adjustable forks. Also moved the windshield forward so as to not bang my helmet into it on said topes. Real jungle with a billboard... Did not expect a 57 chev in Chetumal. It looks pretty good from 50+feet away. Hope to do Belize in the next day or two and then deep in the mountains of Guatemala. Wifi may be iffy for a week. Thanks Noel and you know I am always lurking on the FBR list

For the new reader
 

Just a helpful hint. The travel story does not begin in earnest till page two. ohh and this is a Greek Goddess that can be found on Paso de La Reforma, near Av Insurgentes nte right downtown Mexico City.

Darn tenants, washing in the sink, burning up the ceiling fan motors . . . . they ain't dryers . . .

A morning adventure and....
 

A big part of my being in Chetumal is, it has a Kawasaki dealer. Well sorta. Not one kawa anywhere to be seen. I paid $190 ($14.25us) for a Fram oil filter and glad to get it. I left a washable lifetime K&N oil filter a home. Then I went to the border and the 'official woman in the little white building on the right' tried to get an extra $300 ($22.50us). I declined her offer. Went back to town to get an oil change. I asked several people with no useful result and then this guy, hanging out, drinking from a coke can with no top, got on his bike ,a 150 (?)cruiser and had to ask for directions himself several times, but did lead me to a shop. Did I mention that the pmex gas has been just fine for the klr650. So they sold me some pmex oil! It comes in little plastic bags. Also....

an adventure in the afternoon
 

I thought I might get a better setting on the clutch. The very charming young woman the worked the counter had to call her Uncle Alberto (the owner) about this idea the gringo has. This is a tune and repair place for scooters and small singles. They don't disassemble exotica like a KLR. Before the trip I bought aftermarket clutch springs and threw away the originals before a realized the new pieces would coil bind. The springs would compress all the way down and not be able to go any more because all the coils were touching. The clutch would not work. I put these little shinny washers in and it worked fine ,but while riding, I thought ,'why not just shorten the springs'. A shorter wire is a stiffer wire so I would get the stronger spring that I thought I would get when I bought them. Also my brand new Kawasaki gasket did not fit right, so Alberto made me one that did. All this took several hours and all Alberto charged me for was the oil. And he told me about a lagoon, maybe 10 miles west of town, that I will go look at tomorrow. Has a really deep blue color to the water. The clutch has been fine for the last 5 miles. A little firm at the lever. Thank you, Alberto.

Oil in a bag. Hmmmm, why not?

Maybe they dump/burn the used old oil so they don't need to use the container to recycle it?

Oil and stuff
 

It turns out that I can not find any oil like this in the auto parts stores. I find other products from that company but not oil. I think it is the cheapest oil that a shop can buy but it is not marketed otherwise. Most customers don't know or care. I've seen this practice a lot is the states. I was right to not use the new oil filter, as I will change the oil again soon. This guy would stand perfectly still for several minutes and then make robot noises ( think R2D2) and move like a robot, playing onlookers with a tip jar at his feet. A handful of coins, maybe $.50us, got me personal attention from in the form of a robot tip of the hat. There were two more half a block away that had the good sense to work in the shade. But he did have the corner! Lots of this kind of thing is done. The guy with the bike (that has a two wheeled cart instead of front forks) is carrying a bed frame and a small desk down main street.

It's been three days . . . . :mchappy:

Did you vote absentee? but then I shouldn't encourage you.:rolleyes2:

This morning I got talked into a ride with some super motards; we met at the 7/11 and went up Little Tujunga, out over Boquet Canyon to Leona Valley for breakfast.

Bacalar Lagoon and into Belize
 

That had to be a good ride John, Chasing motards on a cbr1000rr I'm guessing. I've been in Belize for a few days and I gotta say, it is good to not struggle every time I speak to someone. Also I have been watching TV.... the Daily Show, the debates, some nascar and will watch motogp, Martinsville, F1 in India etc. Was offered a pint of Blue Bell ice cream for $6.40us. I put it back. Food is high but I found a couple of places for 'Belize rice n beans w chicken' for $3.50us It was all I could eat. Found some friends I get together with in the evening. Got a deal on a hotel and I am chillin for a couple days. This is not a touristy place but rather a dump with good tv, internet and a mix of people. Before I left Mexico I went to Bacalar Lagoon and found the Spanish fort used to defend it. White thing is a model and it must have been tough to attack that thing. Got fotos of lily pads above and below. I think it is the depth and clarity that makes the water different colors. Mayan sculpture that, if I remember right, is called ' Bird with large penis'

Mayan rebels and stuff
 

I walked in the pharmacy and bought meds. No hassle or doctor needed. $13.60us The bottle on the left $30 ($2.25us) looks like the stuff used during surgery to stop infection. Was magic on my bashed thumb. Saw this bright paint in the garage and learned that it is not legal to paint a mural on the outside of a building. Classic Mexican social/political murals squashed. This one is of a Mayan fighting the forces of evil (the spanish). Inside the store were art supplies for sale and a this painting that I related to. I was struggling trying to find a money changer and this guy.... when I first saw him, I gestured that he should strap his helmet, This guy lead me on a wild ride at triple the speed limit, rolling through stop signs at 20 mph etc etc I thanked him and changed the money. That is a DL650 Suzuki police bike.

Belize
 

Did I mention that the locals don't drink the water? This is the art work that greeted me as I arrived. Found a small banana farm for sale. Decor where I have breakfast and Belize rice n beans w chicken 'street food' ($3.50us total).

Timely repairs in Orange Walk, Belize
 

For those not familiar with the process... A foot peg bolt would not tighten properly and the problem was found to be the threads in the frame. I borrowed a drill from Mrs. Lee who owns the Akito Hotel, where I am staying. Then drilled the hole, used chain lube on the tap to makes new threads in the frame and screwed in the new, correct size, threads. Some skill is required. The coil is very tough steel and does fit regardless of the misleading picture. The Heli-coil kit and drill bit cost $$43.00us and I walked the 5 blocks the buy it. Got about a dozen coils and gotta say I've got 6 more at home, in storage. But now I can be confident that this foot peg will not fall off in the jungle. It is important to me. Older style country and western music ( Hank Williams sr) blasted from this orange cart in the city park.

Good you could get caught up by watching TV.:Beach:

It would be fun to hear the artists explain their thougts about those murals.

Nice helicoil job.:clap:

Not the CBR, I have to short shift to give those motards a chance when I'm on that thing. The 750 Commando is just right.:thumbup1: A bit more power but more weight too, so up to about 70 it's got nothing on those singles. So Little T is a good match up but Boquet is faster, more speed, and the Norton has the advantage there. That bike makes me look good; guys go "How do you go so fast on that relic? on those skinny tires?" Every time I get on it I catch myself downshifting when I mean to be upshifting . . doh . . and depending on who it is that I'm riding with . . . . it can make a difference.

Doctors and Preachers
 

Broken legs and such will be postponed indefinably. All through Mexico was Catholic mixed in varying ways with indigenous beliefs. I found english speaking Belize to offer rivals. Belize was founded by english pirates that would raid spanish ships loaded down with gold headed back to europe. Because of winds and currents the spanish had to come up along the coast. Easy pickins for a long time. Belize City has the best natural harbor to be had. Later they became honest businessmen and shipped lumber all over the world. Not many trees near the river anymore.

Before Guatamala
 

I am sure that Salvador Dali has some input on cloud formation in on the Yucatan. Mrs Lee of The Akito Hotel in Orange Walk, Belize feeding her dogs. She has the very best low rent place in town. This guy has a surprising range of product for sale. The storied Belize City Harbor.

Did I miss something? Was there an accident?:confused1:

All is well!!!
 

No problem at all..... but the very sight of the doctors office is all the motive I need for a profound resolve that there will not problem either. Thanks for your concern though. It is surprising just how 'different' those drums sound ,with their quick paced, intricate, elaborate rhythm, when i am actually standing in the jungle. It is all marching band equipment, but they do a good job of turning rhythm into melody. Sometimes they do some dope and play all night. It was all part of the 'Day of the Dead' parade, as is the guy with the snake. It is a brand of ancestor worship. They spend the day thinking about and preying or bonding with loved ones that are gone. Had breakfast with these folks. She is a well traveled independent business woman and he is a Harley guy expat. I had the bike washed. Honest!

Into Gualemala
 

More of these guys, but now with a pistol grip pump shotgun. Plenty of ammo and 'tude. None of these guys want their face in the picture. I was just swooping along marveling at how nice the roads are in the far north of Guatemala and then..... I was on a straight dirt road. Kinda nice ,easy dirt but no more swooping. Then stopped for the worst meal of the trip,so far. Warn beef jerky and hard beans for Q20 ($2.66US). I then came upon a large lake. I asked a german hippie, artist woman where to go and wound up at Mon Ami, a french place that had classic blues and or jazz playing in the back ground. My thatched roof bungalow and the matching restaurant. Q100 ($13.25us) Was up late several times talking with other travelers.

Tikal
 

These are the big ones. 100,000 Mayans lived here a little over a thousand years ago. They were one if three Mayan factions that took turns ruling. There are no paved roads north, east or west of here. Within Guatemala that is. Walk off the trail and you very well might go for 20, 50 or 100 miles of jungle before finding someone that does not speak english,etc. I've never seen a sign like this before. It means be careful of the 200 pound cats wandering around here. As I stood there, I heard a loud rustling in the brush. A big noise! I was relived to see the tree tops sway and deduce the it was monkeys swinging from branch to branch and not something way too big... This is the first view of the back of the first temple and then around to the front and a courtyard of sorts. Then a view through the jungle of the big temple (IV) and then on top of it (as far as allowed) looking back at the first temple. It was quite a city.

Just great. I always wanted to visit those ancient pyramids.

Went to the SoCal Norton OC ride at Hansen Dam Sunday, maybe 500 people and 2 or 300 bikes.

Well, well, well...I've got lots of reading to do to catch up with all the writing you've been doing! Sorry it took me so long to find you.

Think about you often...and turn green with jealousy !! Glad you're safe!

Need a name
 

Mike,
What is the name of the guy in Gadsden that does transmission work.?

Safe travels
 

Hey in Guatemala keep an eye out for my friend Deb on a yellow 650 BMW!!

The yellow cat signs
 

....the yellow cat signs you refer to above mean, "Beware of the Jaguars"....the jungle in Belize is one of their few remaining strongholds.........!!!!!!!!!!!!:innocent:

Moto Cafe in Antigua
 

hey Mike,

Good to meet you in our shop today. We'll see you Saturday morning bright and early for the ride, looking forward to it!

Any luck with Dave on that seal?

see you soon,
Chris

bmw repairs and bugs
 

I'm glad to report that this thing has no wings. Years ago I had a phobia about bugs ,spiders and such. Careful research has revealed that I have a weight and reach advantage as well as I can resort to tools not available these guys. Chemical warfare is considered moral in desperate cases like this. Turns out this guy went away with prompting. Johnveazey1952: The guy is Rick Jones and he does nothing but the best work. Motorrad Elektric 205-442-8886 motoelekt@aol.com. If you go there, check out his 'war wagon scooter'. Has a certain charm.

Spider
 

That is one big bug! If he were any bigger it would have to be two bugs! I don't think I could have just sent him on his way, he might come back!!! Good to hear from you and that you are doing fine. It is cold and rainny here in Kyrgyzstan.

Mac

Leaving Tikal
 

To be fair, the ugly spider eats other bugs that are a pain to have around. Sat up late talking about books, films, fathers and what is the next agenda with Troy from Jacksonville Fla. He gave me a book before he left. Somewhere in the first chapter I knew I would finish the book and then reread it slowly. Am rereading it now. Thanks Troy. This german, hippie, artist, woman with the dreadlocks has all the poise, charm and buttery smooth, personable salesmanship of the best producers. Even more than 50% of the population here get by on even less than $5.00us a day here. Single women have it a bit worse. A group of women are now making baskets for the tourist trade. Used books(can't find that here), purses, jewelry, arty furniture and who knows what else is produced in her little shop. I bought a book. I came from the north so I was spared the bill boards as I can in.

thanks
 

It is a very nice to have an 'amen' now and again. Thanks for posting a little something as we go along. OH, I don't know what this thing is, but I've been told to not get too near the cage and I've seen others feed them while roaming free.

OK, it's been a week, where are you?

Could you find turkey to eat on Thanksgiving Day?

Maybe he ate this Mexican coon...:yes:

ALL is well....
 

I may not look like it but I don't really know what I'm doing .... I mean how, to do what I've been doing. My pictures are half page and way too big as well. I need to move them differently so that they will be full page with text between each and they take up less room as well!!! Yes, that is right, but I don't have many english speaking geeks friends locally that can tell me how to do this magic thing. It is simple really, I am sure. Like a card trick ...in the dark.... with distractions ...Anyway this picture is loaded wrongly. It is of me at the national bike rally near hear (lots of fotos). I'm on someone's bobber (125cc) and I 'm trying to do a donut, but I lack the willfulness to use enough throttle. Long way from home, don't brake it, NOBODY hear speaks english if there might be some issue to discuss. Nothing on that thing was adjusted right. etc etc etc. In a day or two (i have been told) I will get some help loading the fotos correctly. Then I will spend several nights getting caught up. Oh yea, that thing is an anteater or cousin to an anteater... I was told in broken english. Also, I now have 4018 public fotos on photobucket. I suppose old87fzr1000 is all the secret buzzword anybody needs to see them. If not I will find geek wizard friend to help out.....

Donuts on somebody else's bike in a place where NOBODY speaks English and the medical care likely is dodgy?

I'd say :funmeteryes: but then it might be doh

NEW and improved with text before http://i1053.photobucket.com/albums/...a/IMG_3519.jpg and after the much larger foto!! They stand guard at this hotel that I arrived at in the rain and tired, not quite lost yet, etc Notice the well fed and cared for look they have. Not true about most dogs here. http://i1053.photobucket.com/albums/...a/IMG_3525.jpgJust a little ways up a dirt road on the only north-south paved road in Guatemala in the little village of Poptun

Great job
 

Fantastic new look on the post. Have greatly enjoyed reading your post. Keep safe and keep on keeping on.

Mac

On to Puerto Barrios
 

Much of the road south was like this, both with and without traffic. A satisfying ride.http://i1053.photobucket.com/albums/...a/IMG_3532.jpg I found this 'street preacher' complete with pa system. He had the the volume turned way up.http://i1053.photobucket.com/albums/...a/IMG_3539.jpg And this protestant church across from where I had lunch. I had not seen or heard such since leaving Alabama. http://i1053.photobucket.com/albums/...a/IMG_3536.jpg And next door to lunch, was this small posse. We chatted for a while and compared notes. She (in red) complained about it taking 4 days to to get through Mexico. They did not travel at night either. Not the same kinda thing as my 3 months wandering around. I am some taken by all the poverty and this chain of ice cream shops, that are apparently are doing very well http://i1053.photobucket.com/albums/...a/IMG_3537.jpg

In Puerto Barrios
 

Lots of folks out cruising.Been a while since I have seen a lot of people riding for pleasure...Saw an impromptu drag race between two 125's. One had a hot rod exhaust or access to a hack saw.http://i1053.photobucket.com/albums/...a/IMG_3545.jpg None of the gear none of the time. Got the smart phone. To be somewhat fair, they are not going far and they are not going fast. They seemed a little too busy to help out a lost toursita. http://i1053.photobucket.com/albums/...a/IMG_3543.jpgThese guys take soccer seriously. A soccer game on saturday night.http://i1053.photobucket.com/albums/...a/IMG_3550.jpgIt took a while but I found the harbor. This is the only place that I found anything like 'Gringo... Go now'. A little 'yankee go home' sentiment that surprised me. I looked up Guatemala on Wikipedia and learned a little more about their civil war. I had no idea I was a part of it in some fashion. http://i1053.photobucket.com/albums/...a/IMG_3564.jpg

United Fruit/Dole and the CIA
 

This outfit was central to what is called a civil war with 200,000 locals dead. Ended about 10 years ago. http://i1053.photobucket.com/albums/...a/IMG_3570.jpg And this guy, with the pistol grip shot gun always at the ready..... I am sure it is part of their training to have a finger actually on the trigger (or trigger guard) when something needs to be observed, like me buying gas. This guy could not have been nicer as he got to key to the men's room. I got a look at the shells , pellets about a quarter inchhttp://i1053.photobucket.com/albums/...a/IMG_3574.jpgKinda like these. Notice the corrosion on the shells. We do not need any misunderstanding. I am pretty sure that is the response they want me to have. http://i1053.photobucket.com/albums/...a/IMG_3849.jpg

These two were having big summertime fun 60k (36 miles) away on Lake Izabal . A little villiage called Mariscos. I priced a nice room on the water for q150 ($20us),but it was too early in the day and the place was too peaceful and boring. http://i1053.photobucket.com/albums/...a/IMG_3577.jpgBig ride, pretty much all the way across the country. It was getting dark as I got near Guatemala City, so this was to place for the night. "Yes, we have a restaurant. It is open 24 hours!" My room at the El Paso was not so bad. It is down the hill, behind the restaurant. http://i1053.photobucket.com/albums/...a/IMG_3603.jpg This place is run , apparently, by five woman and indeed, is open for truck drivers 24/7. The woman in green displayed a classic personable, not quite flirty, salty and playful waitress persona , that varied with each costumer. There was a hole worn in the bottom of jeans.http://i1053.photobucket.com/albums/...a/IMG_3600.jpg

Into Guatemala City
 

This is the kitchen. Two woman carry the large pots, hot and full, from a remote stove somewhere in the back to the stove seen here. http://i1053.photobucket.com/albums/...a/IMG_3599.jpg finishing off my coffee and savoring the moment....http://i1053.photobucket.com/albums/...a/IMG_3596.jpg I missed my turn, got off the freeway and asked these guys for help in my best spanglish and gestures. Rodolfo went inside and got on the computer and had the directions printed out in english. Thank you , Rodolfo. http://i1053.photobucket.com/albums/...a/IMG_3604.jpgBy now I am having more stomach bothers. I should have taken the little pills for that a couple of days ago but did not realize the severity of the issue. It is threatening rain and ,now I see no signs for 'hotel' but only 'villa'. I don't want to buy a villa ....I finely see a hotel sign and wander down back streets until I find a mythical place.... q100 ($13us) They look hurt when I leave the next day, rather than spend a week.http://i1053.photobucket.com/albums/...a/IMG_3609.jpg

Mike thanks for showing us a slice of real mexican life.
 

Great photo's.enjoying your blog ,carry on.Noel:D

Just outside of Guatemala City
 

With no TV, no wifi, feeling poorly etc I made my escape under threatening skies and found this place. They had a selection of maybe 100 birds on displayhttp://i1053.photobucket.com/albums/...IMG_3627-1.jpg


It had nice gardens.......

http://i1053.photobucket.com/albums/...IMG_3631-1.jpg

and well dressed waiters. I stayed a week

http://i1053.photobucket.com/albums/...IMG_3615-1.jpg

Guatemala
 

Hey if your still in Guatemala we will be in Panajachel dec 17 or so. sara

Antigua, Guatemala
 

Finely, made it to Antigua for spanish lessons and such.... My room has this mural. I don't think there are any flowers anywhere this big...
http://i1053.photobucket.com/albums/...IMG_3635-1.jpg

I was bemused to learn that the little oil seal ($9us) that I needed for the Kawasaki would be ordered from the same desk as Porsche, Jaguar, Volvo etc.
http://i1053.photobucket.com/albums/...a/IMG_3647.jpg
Standing near my apt (5,000 feet above sea level) and looking up at one of several local volcanoes, one reaches to 13,000 feet. This is the view most often seen. Being forty miles from the Pacific the clouds tend to get caught here. The rainy season is over now or put another way, it is now south of here now. No real need to hurry into the monsoon season.... http://i1053.photobucket.com/albums/...IMG_3655-1.jpg

Thanks
 

Thanks, for hanging in there while I fumble, mumble and grumble with the tech that is soooo simple if ya got any idea what ur doing. Yes, saralou, a visit seems in order....Thanks again and I will try to get caught up soon...mike

I almost reported this thing as a 'one off' in Guatemala , but just in time I saw several more for sale on E-bay... Too cute to count!!http://i1053.photobucket.com/albums/...IMG_3646-1.jpg

Thanks for the update.
 

You can buy the maddass here in oz.Carry on,Noel:scooter:

Hunting for a ride
 

There are days when I lament my bogus dna, my profound lack of meaningful, effective progress through life and in general, demented origins. Other days, my mood is brighter. http://i1053.photobucket.com/albums/...IMG_3651-1.jpg

I could not find the rumored gathering of sport bikes and wound up having breakfast with these Republican Guatemalan bike guys. I counselled that Obama was probably not as bad as Fox News would lead you to believe.....Great breakfast with straight arrow folks.http://i1053.photobucket.com/albums/...IMG_3658-1.jpg
When these kind folk could not tell me how to find the motos, They got in the car and lead me to them...

http://i1053.photobucket.com/albums/...IMG_3664-1.jpg

The Rally
 

We found them!!!

http://i1053.photobucket.com/albums/...IMG_3670-1.jpg

It turns out it was not a dozen bikes but more like 500 bikes. This guy interviewed me for Motorista

http://i1053.photobucket.com/albums/...IMG_3711-1.jpg

There was trophies
http://i1053.photobucket.com/albums/...IMG_3731-1.jpg
And a brass band
http://i1053.photobucket.com/albums/...IMG_3747-1.jpg

The Rally
 

Being almost the only gringo at the rally and 'rode the moto from Alabama', well, it is not that easy to be a celebrity. After this one had her way with my bike and camera, she avoided me personally. Now she is famous. http://i1053.photobucket.com/albums/...IMG_3767-1.jpg

This guy was having fun and had to have a picture as well. He was selling lemons. He is not uncommonly short.http://i1053.photobucket.com/albums/...IMG_3712-1.jpg

This one was very earnest in relating that her friend was ready to take off to Costa Rica. I was nice to the kid and moved on to other subjects.
http://i1053.photobucket.com/albums/...IMG_3716-1.jpg

rally
 

Lots of interesting bikes ......like this Aprilla 650 http://i1053.photobucket.com/albums/...IMG_3681-1.jpg

200/250 ? motard from Chinahttp://i1053.photobucket.com/albums/...IMG_3751-1.jpg

Or this Trimph Twin. Taz and I had a sporting but not quite stupid ride back to Moto Cafe/CATours http://i1053.photobucket.com/albums/...IMG_3780-1.jpg

Moto Cafe/CATours
 

Whatever you want in Antigua, this is the 'go to' place. They know the answer to your question and offer good counsel. http://i1053.photobucket.com/albums/...IMG_3781-1.jpg
It has been said that the best burgers in Guatemala are to be had right here. http://i1053.photobucket.com/albums/...IMG_3783-1.jpg
It is my experience and my observation that these two can be trusted, especialy the quite one in the background. http://i1053.photobucket.com/albums/...IMG_3832-1.jpg

Antigua
 

At the Rainbow Cafe, it is not cheap by local standards but it's about a third of US prices. They make a serious effort to keep it interesting. Tap dancer with standing room only.... http://i1053.photobucket.com/albums/...IMG_3785-1.jpg

while a band, complete with horn section, walked in the front door.http://i1053.photobucket.com/albums/...IMG_3787-1.jpg

This guy shined my shoes for cheap. http://i1053.photobucket.com/albums/...IMG_3812-1.jpg

Big Ride....
 

A big ride was had to Lake Atitlan, a couple of hours awayhttp://i1053.photobucket.com/albums/...IMG_3802-1.jpg

A sizable waterfall was gazed upon. Note the bike http://i1053.photobucket.com/albums/...IMG_3808-1.jpg

A pause to gaze at the lake before delivery http://i1053.photobucket.com/albums/...IMG_3804-1.jpg

It the same stuff. Really. http://i1053.photobucket.com/albums/...IMG_3784-1.jpg

The local guys do good work.http://i1053.photobucket.com/albums/...IMG_3833-1.jpg

I have never seen a truck load of cops before.http://i1053.photobucket.com/albums/...IMG_3851-1.jpg

Always look forward to your blog's
 

You have a knack of showing the real face of the countries you travel through.
Noel:D

Hey Mike,

I'm enjoying your grand adventure. Question: Now that you are "way down there" are you working your back, headed further south, or conflicted?

I think I would be conflicted and keep going, maybe sell Chiklets or wash windscreens , shine shoes, to keep going.

Your adoring fans would like to know.

~Jerry

Keep it up Mike; good stuff. BTW, our friend in Arkansas is fading fast.

Passing and Time.
 

One penalty for surviving is that one must watch and sometimes share in others not surviving. I have had several friends that 'knew their time was coming'. The courage of Patrick and the the recent very human drama of John and Cheryl have been enriching in a gut wrenching way. Friends from Birmingham and from 30 years ago in LA will recognize the names. http://i1053.photobucket.com/albums/...zeGuate135.jpg
The volcano south of town as seen on the walk to the gym. Not cold at all, even though it looks it in this foto.

http://i1053.photobucket.com/albums/...zeGuate413.jpg

While I likely have another 15 or 20 years of more vigorous living left, you never really know. I probably should make this ride count. I'm thinking the Andes are second only to the Himalayas and the roads are better....

Hanging out in Antigua
 

I got a haircut for q20 ($2.60us) and this woman fondled my face....took her time....never happened before.... http://i1053.photobucket.com/albums/...zeGuate013.jpg

These guys took a couple of extra days and did a substandard job on the kawa seat. Been planing to recover it since Birmingham. $20us http://i1053.photobucket.com/albums/...zeGuate014.jpg

The hubb of activity is the park in the center of town. It is well used by locals, touristas and the church. Center of the park is a fountain with a scowling mermaid.....that defies.... something.
http://i1053.photobucket.com/albums/...zeGuate073.jpg

The faiths
 

I went running to see what the comotion was about and found this progression on a back street entering one of eight local Catholic churches
http://i1053.photobucket.com/albums/...zeGuate023.jpg

I was bemused at this blending of old and not very regal, noisy new.
http://i1053.photobucket.com/albums/...zeGuate026.jpg

One suspects that these guys will take some of the 'maybe manana' right out of the culture and try to bring about some strident changes
http://i1053.photobucket.com/albums/...zeGuate012.jpg

A real race track!!! About 20 miles away!!!!
 

From the scoring tower, at start/finish line, at mid track...
http://i1053.photobucket.com/albums/...zeGuate037.jpg

Looking to the right at the first half
http://i1053.photobucket.com/albums/...zeGuate040.jpg

Looking to the left at the second half...They went counter clockwise this day.
http://i1053.photobucket.com/albums/...zeGuate039.jpg
Arrogant little ***** of tomorrow...
http://i1053.photobucket.com/albums/...zeGuate049.jpg

A couple of the haunts
 

Walking in the front door of a favored restaurant
http://i1053.photobucket.com/albums/...zeGuate061.jpg

A little father in... Breakfast q15 and lunch q20 ($1.95 &$2.60us)
http://i1053.photobucket.com/albums/...zeGuate058.jpg

From inside the gym...
http://i1053.photobucket.com/albums/...zeGuate067.jpg

My spanish teacher, Jenri (henery) and a $3.00 lunch. He is a much better teacher than I am a student...
http://i1053.photobucket.com/albums/...zeGuate074.jpg