ratbikemike in mexico.
 

I've been on the road for 6 days now and I'm 3 miles from Mexico. It's not to early to get the blog up and going is it? The phone won't work in 3 miles' people are texting me .... I will post more this evening. I have already done a draft in ink. But for now I need to deal with the second issue of the day. Cross the border ...without rancor. mike:scooter:

that water will get ya...
 

I'm in Saltillo Mx now and I'm riding only in the day light, only on main roads and now drinking only bottled water, cola and coffee. Local pills for this sort of bother can be had by talking to the mexican cutie in sign language and giving her $1.50us Food and shelter are also cheap as well. And just as much trouble to arrange. But there always seems to be a prince that helps out. Victor translated at the visa office because I was struggling. I drove off from 2 gas stations because I didn't know how to buy gas. At the third the 'helper' gave me his lunch! 'Eat like a Mexican!' And so I did. 300 miles, 95 degrees, border crossing and now finding a number of little things I'm not prepared for. Simple things that are easier dealt with when cooled down, fed and rested. I saw no banditos but I did see an impressive display of police power. About a doz. new and shiny 4door chevy trucks going quickly. Troops inside and also standing up in the bed with a large shield to hide behind while they shoot. Lots of ak47 looking guns and new uniforms on somber guys. The road block guys I talked to could now read my passport at all and we joked about the heat. Like a stop for a handshake. Mike

loneriderinmexico
 

hey mike!
happy to be able to catch-up w/u. Sounds like ur making out just fine. Not a lot at this time. Just to confirm contact.
Take good care, and go in god-speed.

Happy Birthday, Ratbike Mike! I love you!

Happy Birthday, Ratbike Mike!!!
 

I'm so excited for you! What a way to spend your birthday; actually living out one of your dreams. Please keep posting and pictures would be nice, too!:D

Happy belated birthday. Was thinking birthday same as anniversary, anyway HAPPY BIRTHDAY!!!
Not all here, cause not all there. Of course you hit rain; all wet and laid up for 4 days. Better you than the bike, eh.
Well you know nothing happens by accident, reason for every thing. Hopefully it'll put you at right place at right time. Look for the coincidence, that will tell you, you know, there is no such thing as coincidence in God's world.
Well, chewing fat a little. Not one for rambling.
At least you rested plenty.
Take good care. And happy rambling on the bike. G-MAN

What is G-MAN talking about???? You got hurt without telling me????? That just ain't right. More info, please. :taz:

hurt by the water......
 

Everybody is working from the same page, ok? I drank the water and that stopped me for a few days. Got pills now and i'm more careful. The water did not rain down on me and cause a problem. Ya gotta be easy on da G-man, cause he's almost as old as me and like me, he sees things his own way sometimes. Got a heart of gold and proud to call him a good friend. Would trust him with my life but he is hard of hearing and such.:oops2:

Oh. Okay. Glad you're okay.

Sorry, G-man.

Hey! Mike's right; i am slooow. And as green as they come when it comes to internet. Just so green, and embarrassed with my learning errors. Just another school of hard-knocks. Self taught in what little i know. Not a good teacher, for i am slooow. Thanks to Mike i am now exposed to the BLOG. Next up, TWEETER.
Anyway, hey Mike!!!

You do all right, Larry; I just misunderstood. And being slooow still gets it done. And if you learn how to tweet, teach me. I don't play that!

now with color pics
 

I locked myself in this hotel room for 3 days and now I can post a pictire. kinda can ..... san antinio campsir picture by old87fzr1000 - Photobucket I have not abandon the tale and I am still in the hotel room and to be fair this is a test post.

Cool! Nice campsite; fantastic tree. Load some more.

Keep it coming
 

Be safe out there old friend, but keep it rollin'. Riding vicariously with you!

Calhoun

Texas tree
 

http://www.horizonsunlimited.com/hub...-to-mx-430.jpg I Apparently I have posted a picture. This magnificent tree is just south of San Antonio and is my last campsite before Mexico. More to come.....

The party
 

Attachment 7498
So my friends heard me yammering on about riding south and they through me a party. So kind. Good food ,motogp, and chillin'.

More party fotos
 

more potos and good wishes....

A couple more
 

These guys were expecting me to leave in a couple of days......

But I still had a few things to do
 

Like sell my friends Buick, sell the other klr and a little tinkering. the big spring is the factory correct piece. So I cutt it to fit and the motor makes very little chain rattling and clanking noises. Mostly I hear the stock muffler..

And some more stuff...
 

Attachment 7509

Attachment 7510

Attachment 7511

Attachment 7512
It was good to spend quality time with all three sisters. One I have no picture off. And while I was at it I painted the trailer and made a couple of thips to Ga. (200 miles one way) I stashed my old bmw as well.

A little more tinkering.
 

It turns out, that when I am excited..... it seems that I can get ham fisted and can sometimes overtighten somethings or just plane not be able to think about the task at hand.....I twisted the little water pump bolt off and that required taking both sides off and waiting a week for some parts. Turns out, it's a common enough problem with this model.

BUT, before the party....
 

I had made a trip with friends from Birmingham to New Orlens. It was a hard trip on the little klr650 as these guys cruised quite quickly. It mostly kept up (bearly) and used only one qt of oil in a 1000 miles. Not so bad but I got nervous and resolved to put the fresher motor from the other klr in the bike I am to ride off in the sunset with. It was nice and I was blissfully riding around with new rings and valves and stuff and upshifts without the clutch and then down shifts without the clutch. All this was at midrange rpms. Then it would not shift! I had to do a little tinkering and remove the piece of third gear that had jumped off and wedged it self between 4th and 5th. It looked fine except for the broken part. I have never seen a gear brake like that. Plenty of wait time for clips and thrust washers etc. I got a new gear and now do not make cluthless down shifts. Way big adventure..... Runs fine now but uses as much oil as the original motor. Seems to have a little more power.

Hey Mike, I will be following behind around October 1 or 2. That tree near San Antonio might be a stop-over.
anyway maybe we will cross paths somewhere. How far are you going?

airdale74451
 

Dale, I not sure just how far I will be going. Costa Rica, TDF or RTW. To early to tell. I am in Veracruz,Mx right now , after a long days ride. The trip would have been easier had I known about a doz words in spanish. The biggest surprise is how genuinely nice these people are. I act like a torista and treat the cops like boy scouts and order tacos on the street with hand gestures and oinks for pork etc. I'm loving it for the most part and they treat me surprising well. In the north stick to main roads and daylight only. Traffic will be a mix of 45mph bikes and 100mph+ cars. The head trip scary part is just getting the trip started and crossing the border. I had no problems except I did not know how to by gas! More on that later. mike

The trip has started....
 

I rode mostly on two lane roads across Mississippi and Louisiana to find this place about 10 miles into Texas. This guy is 90% blind and his wife does the cooking. I felt like stopping but wasn't really hungry, so I ordered cheap... the bbq sausage on a hot dog bun. It was not worth note but before I left the cook , sweaty with her hair mostly pulled back, offered me a small sample of her prize product, bbq pork. I dutifully tasted it as she, with a gleam in her eye, explained, it's so tender that 'you can just leave your teeth a home'. Yes I believe that's true.....

Another view of the tree. It is at a campground south of San Antonio on I-37 ,two exits south of i-410, at a lake and cost $9 for the night. Be warned: some crazy bastards think that if it's friday somehow they need to fish all night! Complete with flood lamps and tents and generators, etc. Maybe a dozen guys in all. Not so bad, but I've never seen such a thing....

Crossing Texas so more....
 

Lots of this between San Antonio and Eagles Pass where I would cross the border. I went about 70 and savored every moment. I could hear Marty Robbins faintly in the back ground, singing about getting away and going back to El Paso for one last kiss before dying.... It was a great ride. Not a very technical ride.. . At the border, the line was short and I think they spotted me for who I am, a bit of a crazy old man tourist going for a big ride. So two very important questions, 'pistole? and 'deniro?' (sp) Guns and cash get smuggled into Mexico. I had not thought of it. Having one bullet will get you years in jail and a large bag of cash is also very bad.... . I thought I would just follow hwy 57 south but soon learned different. Turns out, it is something like a business route and a bypass route. You have to know which city your going to.... . 50 miles (or kilos) into Mexico is Immigration and I got a surprise. About a year ago they put a new policy in place. Every vehicle needs a $300 bond / deposit. Take the vehicle back out of the country within 6 mos and get your money back. Get it wrong and they keep the money. It is all very simple unless you've only got about four words in common with the highly suspect immigration woman. It comes to $372 instead of the something under $100 that I expected. Victor was careful to not intrude. He asked if I might want some help. After I agreed ,he explained it all and said he was getting his deposit back as we spoke. It was apparent that he only wanted to be helpful. I am in his dept.....

Greetings, Mike! It's not the same around the big house without you around. Raymond says hello.

It is way cool what you are doing and an inspiration to me and countless others.

Are you posting fotos on photobucket? If so, it's private and noone can see them with out a password. Your Facebook friends are clamouring.

Keep on rolling!

~Jerry

Jerry
 

Hey, I've got about 1500 fotos on an SD thing. Most are in the computer as well. I just now am learning how to operate these systems.(teaching my self mostly) More HU stuff tonite and later links to fotobucket as fits a story. I'll get caught up to date as soon as i can. Then I'll eat for about $40 a meal ($3.00us) and sleep on the beach for free. Now it's hotels with internet. Thanks for being around, mike PS: After crossing the border I had this behind me and this in front of me. It was about 95 degrees and I wanted to get past the 'said to be more dangerous area' and on to the cooler montains. Savoring every moment at a sedate 70mph.......

Veracruz Meeting
 

Hi Mike, good meeting you yesterday....ist Adv rider we have met since leaving the Horizon gathering In NC Sept 7th........hope 175 worked for you....we spent the night in another Love Motel and tonight we are in Cardenas Mx...moving slowly.
All the Best
Bob and John

MickeyD's in Veracruz
 

And so , here we are at the first 'american food' place I've seen in a month. It was good to visit and gather info. 175 was great and landed me in Oxacaxa after a great ride through a montain/rain forrest More than 50 miles of 2nd gear switchbacks and such. Much of the time, looking down at clouds. You guys enjoy your trip and please avoid anything that might shorten it. mike

The purchase of gas.
 

I pulled into the first station with only a quatar of a tank left. It was 95 degrees and I was excited but tired neverless. I waved off the guy trying to wash my mwindshield and went inside to pay. Nothing was working out, so I left. At the next station, it was more confusion, so I left. I now figure I've got a problem. At the third station, Hector was there and understood my problem. He , and those other guys earlier, were there to take the money and pump the gas. How could I know it was full service? And unlike the usa they could put gas in my bike and not pour it all over the bike! I thanked Hector for his patince and went in the market to get a snack. I got a 7up and after the second lap around the store and could not find any label that made sense, Hector stopped me and said,"Here that my lunch. Eat like a mexican!" And I did. Six tacos. I am very grateful for his help. Thank you Hector.

First stop Monclova
 

Not only did I not know how to buy gas, I did not know how to rent a room! So when I got to Monclovia I wandered around until I saw a sign that read 'Hotel'. Turns out that is a word I need to know! I got this room for $44.00us knowing it is way to much but hot and tired from the SanAntinio Tx the Moncovia Mx ride,(about 250 miles at 95 degrees) the excitements of the border crossing ( I had been warned of terrible things gonna happen!) the visa, gas , etc etc It was a 'Screw it, I'll fix it later' moment. It was a very nice room but has a very eyecatching head board. I don't know what this means but I'm pretty sure the baptists won't like it. Next morning,on the way out of town, I was fearful of not haveing food or gas so I gased up and stopped here at the last intersection before open desert. I don't really know how to buy food! The cook picked up a bun and I said 'si' and kept saying 'si' until I got food. A crude method but it seems to work. People smile at me a lot... Got some more desert to go.

excellent Mike! Keep it coming.:scooter:

Found T-rex
 

With desert behind me and montains in the distance, I found T-Rex. It was then and there that 'da water got me'. So there I was, international adventure rider etc etc, behind one of those skimpy bushes, bent over at the waist sqirting horisonall. About 3 maybe 4 feet maybe, although I did not measure it. I then went on into the mountains with only somewhat soiled bvds. This being an adventure guy does not always carry with it great dignity.Once in the mountains I saw these pieces that were once laying flat and the surface of the earth pushed against itself untill this stuff was standing straight up.

Into the hills....Saltillo
 

I wandered around in Satillo until I stumbled on the La Loma Hotel. They gave me a room with 6 beds because they wanted me to be able to bring the moto inside. I was feeling subpar and also thought that it was quite safe being out of sight and three feet from my door as well as covered up. I did not want to remove the bags and the tires and then hoist the bike over the 8" high door sill. I stayed almost a week recovering from 'da water' and they treated me like a prince while I wasted their resorses. About the second day,while wandering out looking for food, I saw a well kept laundry and so the next day I took all my clothes in (wearing swiming trunks). I thought it was a coin laundry but the woman behind the counter and I got crossed up as she insisted on doing the job. With some tenson in the air I left to get something to read while the laundry was being done.When I got back Christina handed me the $200us that I had tucked in my watch pocket and later overlooked. I don't think any other action occured to her. It turns out it was not a coin laundry and she in fact does all the laundry that gets done. I am told that half the people in Mexico get by on $5.00us a day or less. Some say $7.00. Thank you,Christina.

Fernando...
 

While I was eating well presented and somewhat pricy food ($40-- $3.00us) Fernando sat down at my table and asked me in english if I were ok and was there anything that I needed. The owner of the restrant had spoken to him about me. Turns out he owns a fair part of the city, We talked for a half hour and then I ventured that in the excitement of crossing the border I failed to get insurance. He said if anybody asks, 'Give'm twenty bucks'. I'm ok with that but I want to be ok even if it is biger than a $20 problem. His son might know somebody. Come by his bar in the morning between 10:00 and 12:00. I met his two sons and severral friends and phone calls were made. Eventully connections were made and a friend of his offered me a ride to the insurance place and off we went in a new Ford pick-up on a half drunk Mr toad's wild ride. I had packed up to leave but it was getting late for that. I was left at the insurance place and after an hour plus I got a qoute for $762.00us for 6 mos full coverage. The pictures were made about 90 seconds before I saw the price. They put me with a free lance agent for a ride back to the bar. His eyes buldged when he saw the $24 a year for liability from Gieco.I had to buy more stuff to bring it up to minimum. Later, I went on line and got it for $91 for 6 mos. I went back to the bar to update Fernando. He was still there after 10 hours. I thanked him for his efforts, ate some shrimp from the bar and left in the morning.

Headed to San Luis Potosi
 

It is an important 10 degrees cooler in Satillo than down the hill in Monteray. It was good to get rolling again.I soon came upon this horse alongside the 'freeway'. It should be noted that it's front legs are tied together loosely so that it can not run. I never much liked large animals on the highway, but it does not seem to be nearly the bother as expected. Found a good number of these bridge/crosswalks. They have to be expensive and I did not see many people, but maybe forces a work that I am unaware of. I stopped at this little resautrant and marveled at the methoid of construction. The bricks above the window are angled against each other so that the bricks above the window don't simply come crashing down thru the glass. It was done that way centuries ago. The door as well. Maybe I'm wrong but, these are old methods if not a really old building. Coming from a long line of protestants and heathens I had no idea what to make of the horned one. Turns out he is the patron saint of both police and the crooks. Both prey to him....

On the road south...
 

In the restuarant was this little prayer nook, which is not uncommon. I noted that all the saints here, were female with the exception of the crook/cop saint. I also noted that the woman running the place was a bit cool toward me. I am certain that their are forces at work here that I am unaware of. The 'banos' (toilet) was a standard looking piece with no lid and no handle. I put the paper in a waste basket and flushed with a bucket of water from out side. Two miles up the road was a modern truck stop with pay toilets ($2or$3 - $.15 or $.23us) and mexican gay porn.

The mountain road less traveled...
 

I took 54 south rather that the toll road or the 'libre' (free) road that runs alongside it. I goes thru the montains. At the corner of 54 and 62 (San Tiburcio)' I, with map in hand, asked a fedural cop guy,' Is this road safe?'. There was about a dozen of them and they did not seem very busy or under pressure. With his assurances, I proceeded until I found this guy with his sheep and his puppys. I took fotos ,we shook hands and I thanked him. We smiled. No problem. Puppys keep sheep out of the road. Not much traffic. It looks to like she is wondering about this 'amor express'' herself. I stopped at a this bar/restuarant in Cedral to check my route. This guy got his hourse out for the occasion and then that guy got his snake out. Later the 10 (?) year old boy was playing with the snake. Talk about 'show and tell'.

I just stopped in a small town for some info..
 

This was the person behind the bar as I walked in and asked for directions. Nobody was satisfied until the snake was IN the motorcycle. I had to unpack to remove the snake.

Matehuala and more goats in the road
 

Stoneface on the bike rented me a room in Matehuala. On occasion he would break into a broad open smile. rather disarming. Notice his front brake. While at the hotel, Hector (on the right) asked, in english, if things were ok with me. I ventured that a hard copy of my online insurance would be good but I had no real concerns about it. After he delt with some of his own stuff, we devised a plan. He would ride his bicycle across town and I wouls follow him. It was a childs model with 20" wheels. The rear was a little low on air. After a mile or two, much of it the wrong way on one way streets, we got to a place that had the word 'copias' painted above to door. We hooked my computer to their wifi and printer and presto! A hard copy was had. $10 (.75us). I could not have done that without help. I offered him my extra helmet as I had been reviewing how much stuff I was carrying. I should not have. He was being kind. He was not doing any part of a hussle. Thank you, Hector. I found another shepard with goats along the freeway. Some of the traffic stays to the right at about 35mph and some of the traffic is on the left at 100mph or more. I did not see it become a problem. Amazing.

Into Charcas
 

Not quite 7000 feet and right up the hill comes this bad boy. Oh,my. I had lunch in the orange and white trailer in the background and they had much good humor about my ordering style or whatever... And then had coffee on the town square with this woman. Wearing slacks ,medium heels and some jewery she dipped coffee from the large pot which had grounds in it and then strained it. Add Nescafe to taste. She was in charge of flirting and would not tolerate her employees doing so.

Into San Lewis Potosi
 

I got lost leaveing Charcas and stopped in here to ask directions. Everyone came out to talk about the bike, the trip, etc. Hector (another one!) send me up some washed out dirt roads and how could I complain , being a world traveler and all. In San Lewis Potosi, after wandering for a while I spotted two cops trolling and asked if they spoke english and then where is a cheap room. They gestured to follow and led me to a nice room for $180 ($13.50us) Coco, in the middle, cooked me this breakfast every morning for $40 ($3.00us plus a .75 tip). Louise was brought in to translate and she and I went touristing downtown. The youngest one giggled a lot. That is the largest church in town.

Downtown
 

Clowns can find work here. And dancing cowboys with blue boots and pretty shirts can make a go of it. These mild mannered,well behaved women went wild for the mass fanny shake! And then the lap dance...Kinda like Chipndales, but not..

The hot dog.
 

I spent to day in full tourist mode. Later, I had waited to late to eat in the regular places, so I went for a walk and found a place open. Struggling to order I went to anouher table and pointed at the woman's empty plate and said 'Sameo ,sameo'. I had no idea what to expect, I got a tasty hot dog....for $30 ($2.25us)

For my fellow gearheads
 

I had never seen oil of these weights nor antifreese in quarts. When I pasted these guys they were 'brakeing the bead' taking the tire off the wheel. I thought.'hey ,I've got some tools and.. ' I turned around and by the time I got back to them the tire was repaired and back on the bike! I asked and he showed me the pump. I now have a pump like that. Notice they are traveling on freeway ,two up, on a 200cc bike. For those not old enough to know, this new motor looks just like a 1967 Honda 90.

Into a Mexico City Love Hotel
 

On the ride toward Mexico city,I felt good and resolved to ride on thru the city that day rather than wait. I wanted the swagger element of riding through the largest city in the world. Quietly between me and myself. I got about 2/3 of the way thru and traffic pretty much stopped. I found a motel expecting to finish the job in the morning. Much confusion about renting the room. I was told (with gestures) to pull the bike into the garage. The only way in or out was thru the garage. I could not get a key from them! Someone will be watching the door at all times. It was a love hotel. Rent it for four hours and nobody can tell if you're there. I am willing to belive that there is a lot of sliping around in Mexico, as there is a lot of these hotels. It was a very nice place. Roomy, tastefully done, flat screen, glass wall between the shower and the main room. All night for $270 ($20.10us).

A couple of days with Pepe
 

Pepe ,from the HU community, showed up after several e-mails made it clear that phone calls and directions would not be efective in my finding his place. Turns out he is a Bucawski (sp) reader,a Johnny Cash fan,( I had no idea Mr.Cash could be so dark and brooding) rides his BMW GS in that excellant, 'no fuss , no bother, get across town rather quickly' style that many BMW guys have. Not really that easy to follow. We ran an errand downtown, got something to eat on the street and then hiked up to the 4th floor to his place. Did I mention that Mexico is about 6000 feet above sea level and the air is a little thin. It is also cooler , most need a light jacket in the evening. His place is done in the morden, miniumalist style.

On to the city
 

Along with his Gs1150 Adventure BMW that he rode to Peru and nearby countries six years ago, Pepe has this darling 748 Ducati with all the right pieces. How I would love to ride and destroy that thing at my 'home track', Barber Raceway. At least ,pretty much use it up. But, what we did was, get on the subway and go to the 'Zocalo' and nearby musium, church, etc. The Zocalo is the large open area downtown where people gather. The subway was everything I never heard about subways. It was clean, safe, handy and cheap $5 I think it was. Maybe less. (.$.35us). Not a bike ride and 'ya gotta share ur space' with others but, works in so many ways. Also, there is no 'loser stigma' about useing mass transit here. The highest ranking Bishop in Mexico works at this church. Not much like the Baptist (etc) churches of the deep south.

Cops on the Zolaco
 

Views of goverment buildings on the Zolaco. Often this area is very crowded. The very well equiped police are ever present and do almost nothing in regards to traffic. This day, these guys have no guns and are like security guards and provide a quiet show of strenth. Other times they have ak-47 like pieces at the ready. I've seen several police cars from Dodge in Mexico. The story is, the Aztecs wandered the desert untill they found an eagle killing a snake and founded their empire on the spot. History does seem to work that way.....

On the zocalo
 

We have another somber guard, this time at the big church. Two real shamans cleansing souls a few feet away and an aztec dancer guy. In case of earthquake, go to the green and white sign. Lots of those signs.

In da musium
 

About 30 years ago, while digging a foundation for a new building, a pyramid was found. Right in the middle of Mexico City. So a new plan was had and now they have a world class musium. Turns out that the pyramid had been inlarged several times. They just built a new bigger one over the old one. They had 7pyramids, one inside another. Looking across the ruins, you can see the church and beyond that is the Zocalo. Inside the musium proper, I found among other things, the piece that relates to the 'broken woman' that gets born again, whole. I found of intrest the Rain God with it's tears, the Eagle God of War that would wear human skins gathered from the other ceramonies. And of cosrse I took a few minutes with the God of Death, with his liver hanging out. The liver was thought to have something to do with the underworld. It was a great day.

Return home and off again on a Turibus (tour-ri-buus')
 

Pepe would lead me on these 6 hour walking tours. (forced march) Did I mention that this city is over 5000 feet in elavation and my stomach, while not keeping me at the house, was not quite right at all. I was not at my best but mostly I kept up and was glad for the just about everything. That is Pepe's BMW parked on the street and at the bottom of that staircase, under a grey bike cover, is my KLR. The cop did not mind his foto taken this way but did not his face recorded. We shook hands and had a pleasent exchange. Apparently he was guarding something imporant. I paid $3or $4us for a ride around the city on this bus.

Just a few of the more stunning pieces in Mexico City
 

enjoy....

A few more daring pieces
 

When I struggled with the ear phone system, that guy on the right with the woman, came foward and asked if he could help. Thank you, again.

An Angel, a Greek Goddess, some naked guys, and a bench
 

Right in the middle of the street!

Sunday morning at Tres Marias
 

Some of the crowd, a real midget, a pricey duck and a few guys.

A little more
 

Some guys and only one doing stunts...

And a bull fight in the afternoon
 

I thought that they had a token woman in the ring. It has got to boost ticket sales. My first bull fight, but soon I thought Carls de Los Angelus was quite daring and stood close to the bull as it charged. I was right. It went all wrong and it sure looked like I saw her hurt. But not so much that she couldn't go back and continue. Pretty soon she was on the ground again. She got up a lot slower this time.

So there I was, trying to not cry at a bull fight
 

She went back again and to a hushed crowd did some slow, very close stuff. Then put the sword home and watched the bull die. The next time she came out she was knocked down again and killed that bull as well. This last guy stood close to his work as well. He was knocked down and came back for the kill. It is not easy work, bull fighting.

More of the bull fight
 

Adrain Padilla, from prior post, paying a few dues. The old guy funtioned as part of a support system. He had skills and was out there while the bulls were way too fast for close stuff. Workman like and reliable, he did nothing silly, like get hurt.

just behind you
 

Hey great blog! We are in Texas getting the bikes serviced next week then south from San Antonio to Monclova ? next wednesday or thursday. So we will be a few weeks behind you, but maybe we will meet up. Anyway I will watch your progress and learn the tricks of the travel from you. sara

The pyramids (out of town)
 

The Pyramind of the Sun, from the base, half way up and from the top with the Pyramind of the Moon behind me. A view of the Pyramind of the Sun from half way up the Pyramid of the Moon. It is blended with the mountains. The Avenue of Death is on the right. It is my understanding that, people would walk up the Avenue of Death (2k, a little over a mile) to climb the pyramind and be flayed (have their skin removed) and /or have their heart cut out and given to a god. This was done quickly, before dying.

Motos in Mexico City
 

The scooter is the preferred ride for retail level drug dealers. It is the best for excape is really thick traffic.

Nice
 

Great pics and stories to match. Pray for your safety. Keep the post coming and keep your head on a swivel.
Mac

Random stuff...
 

Insurance adjusters for the Telmex co. ride these things so as to provide faster service. This darling woman cooked me breakfast most mornings while in Mexico city. For those intrested, $100 is $7.50us. In a building with about 20 other stores, was what I will call a real butcher shop. How about Rocky Horror Picture Show with a little more melodrama? .... and beefcake?

The Mexico City Post Office.
 

Stunning. Marble and brass and ornate everywhere. It is not like Fed-ex! Montazuma, the aztec leader, could not get fresh fish until a system of relay, marathon runners was devised. They would run the 100 miles from the coast with fish in hand. Hence this Helenic style sculpture in the post office. Only the poor people might complain about a place this nice.

For the weary masses
 

Out in the open.... no charge.

The Art Musium
 

Art from the Revoltion of 1910.

Mexican Independance Day (sept 15)
 

A half a dozen fly overs from progresively more powerful equiptment and police everywhere. The last I saw were 'fighter jets'. Being a 'loco gringo toursta', you can get away with a lot. I could not get that foto without me in it. Those guns are never carried in a way that makes it hard to shoot quickly, gunfighter style. They are always at the ready.

Art and Costco
 

Time restraints precluded my brousing the park on Sunday when the artists were there. I am sure it was my loss. We went to Costco for supplies. The escalator was a ramp with no steps and the carts would not roll and required no attention. wow.

Holiday with Pepe and family
 

I am greatful that I was invited to the family gathering. I could not understand more than maybe 3% of what I heard, but it was not hard to see the kind spirit and loving tones of exchanges made. They had half a bottle of tequila for the whole bunch. Toward the end there was less than two fingers left in the bottle. One of the sisters while cleaning up looked at it and simply poured it on the ground. No malice, it just was not worth saving. I have never seen that before. I don't know what the stuffed thing that Pepe's mom made is called but I love it. Had two.

Some more...
 

After eating we moved to the kitchen for more eating and chatter. It was a group effort to cut the apple pie. It would have been rude to take many pictures at such an occasion but here is a group foto taken just before 6 of us piled into a little 4 seater nissin for a ride half way across the city. Halfway up a hill in Mexico City and it was just wonderful. Thank you, Pepe. Without your input I would have only slowed down briefly and missed a really great great city. It was a great week. Thanks.

A bus ride.
 

This woman overheard me asking a fellow passenger questions and asked if she could help. She was getting off a 'my stop' and could show me which way to go. She wanted ..... to be helpful. This lecherous old bastard was disarmed and made humble by her kindness. She very much was helpful and I found my way just fine. The bus was a newish 6 speed Mercedes with brass bezels on the dash. It was quite, comforable, handy,and cheap. $3 (.22us) go anywhere. Also, you can pick up a bicycle at any of these dots on the map and leave it at any other dot on the map. I think the price was $40us a year. Certainty is lost in the whirlwind of the week. It seemed a very good deal for someone staying a year and the bikes all looked in good order. Oh yeah. If I remember right, human body parts were mixed with corn on this piece to give to one of the gods.

Leaving Mexico City
 

Pepe and I rode for 200 miles of this. Well, the first 30 were pretty much city traffic miles. We stopped at the small historic city of Cuetzalan.

Cuetzalan
 

We got a couple of rooms and later when I bashed my thunb with a hammer trying to reset the preload/sag on the rear of the bike, this woman was beside herself being helpful.

On to Veracruz
 

Pepe returned to Mexico City and that put me on my own for the first time in a while and pretty soon I made a wrong turn. The sign had the right word on it and it went left/east as I needed but it turned out to be someones driveway. Wet and slick the bike slid to a stop sideways half way down that hill. I wiggled it straight and continued down to the man's house. I made a u -turn, went back to the pavement and checked the sign. I then ignored the right word on the sign and stayed on the pavement and found another sign with the right word on it. Later,in traffic, it rained breifly, so I stopped to put wallet and camera in a plastic bag. I made it to the gulf that afternoon. This forttress in Veracruz had a sign refering to The Battle of Santigo. I keep thinking I will remember it , but not yet.

Cosamaloapan
 

This trailer thing just makes me smile. I'm thinking of it full of sportbike friends and all the wide eyed yelling back and forth about how to do what and what to when, etc, etc. I stopped for a coke and under the advise of this woman with worse english than my spanish, I went in search of a hotel in Cosamaloapan. I found a room for $450 ($33.50us) and when I balked at the price the atractive woman speaking english sudjested that maybe I could find a room mate. I left. After wandering, I stopped at another place and was told they were sold out. Then a guy setting in front of a pet shop offered to help. One thing led to another and he got in his car and led me to a hotel around the corner from the pricey one. $165 ($12.35us)Thank you. The next morning after I struggled a little ordering breakfast and then had nowhere to sit, this man invited me to sit with his family. They spoke no english. Thank you, again.

Oaxaca
 

I hear differant birds when I stop and I see differant vegatation while I'm rolling. Then at Valle Nacional the ride gets really intresting. I am told, in english, that it will take 4 hours to go the 107k into Oaxaca (65miles). I figure he miscalculated, he does not know who he is talking to etc, etc. Turns out that about 50 miles of the ride is 2nd gear switchbacks with quite a few 1st gear spots as well. I got up to 50 mph three times and then on the brakes. I certainly could have ridden harder but I am on the 'don't screw this thing up so far from home plan'. At the top, some of it was cold, rainny, foggy and difficult to see. 10,000 peaks on either side. I did not measure carefully,but I think it took two and a half hours. I stopped briefly four times for pictures and a moment of stomach bothers.

The spoils of victory
 

I arrive on the dusty back streets of Oaxaca and most places are closed. Up and down the street and I go and then back to the pricey looking place I had earlier past on. I have learned that square plates means it will likely be tasty and it certainly be pricey. It was indeed a nice meal. It came $90 ($6.75 ) The waiter/manager says that is about '8 bucks'. I find few people can do the math. It is not quite three times what I should be paying for a meal. I reach in my pocket and I don't have the money. I have $50 and a us ten dollar bill. I go from swagger to embarassed and ask him if he can take the ten. He agrees and I figure vaguely that he got a two dollar tip. I can't do the math while embarassed. He did get a good tip.

Hey Mike -

Great blog, great fun to read it and see the pictures. :clap:

I'm over here, thinking "Hey, I know that guy! and he's way down there in Mexico,:palm: following the dream,:mchappy: getting by with 'oink' and hand signals." :clap:

Went to the motorcycle swap meet last week end with Jerry Burak.

support....
 

So....... Airdale 74451 and Saralou.... Did you guys get across da borber? If I can help in so way please let me know. And Mac-1769, thanks for your kind words. Jerry, I'm thinking that all the fotos will go to Photobucket later. Got about 1800 fotos so far! Need to learn some more new skills to load that many... Glad you guys enjoyed the report. This is a map that Pepe and I congered. The pen cap on the left is Mexico City and on the right is going into Belize. mike

Hi Ratbikemike,

Really enjoy following your travels. It brings back good memories. Won't be heading south for a few weeks. But who knows? Maybe see you down the road.

Keep up the good work!

Kindest regards,
John Downs

Awesome!

mexico on thursday
 

We are in Houston still for bike service. Will cross at Del Rio tomorrow. Your blog is great! Sara

Where are you at now? About to cross into Guatemala? Going to Belize?
Stomach getting stronger?

Mike, I can't post a custom avatar so click on my profile . . .

Out of order.....
 

I am in San Cristobal but the blog is stillback in Oxaxca. Got some time line issues, I do. I am in a tourista eatery, having ice cream and coffee and.... internet! For those who might find this kind of info important.. I have had solid bowel movements for almost three weeks now! To be fair, I was way out of sorts for about 4 or 5 days and then iffy for three weeks. I don't drink the water but I eat almost anything from just about anywhere. I must say it is good to get a responce on the list. It negates that notion that I am blasting 80 posts off into a vaccum ( where is my%$^%&^ spell check?) It is 6500ft above sea level here and cool and wet. Came down from above the clouds again, must have been a couple of thousand feet down. Place is full of...... wait .... The blog is going back to Oxaxca to get caught up. Thanks for the responce mike PS: Yes, that is a big rock with a tree on the side of the road.

The nice side of Oxaxca
 

I was wandering around lost looking for a hotel and Carlos hooked me in. For $150 ($11.25us) I got a bed in an empty dorm and for another $25 ($1.87us) I got this breakfast. And Internet too! That allowed me to sit still for a few days ,drink red bull and get caught up on da blog. Often I was posting at 3+am. Oaxaca has a lot of tourist pleasing jazz. Jazz of the traditional, classic style. I watched an older guy stand in the street and play an alto sax without any slurring or blending of notes at all. He was influcenced by Miles Davis, me thinks. Clean,clear and with the full knolage that the space between the notes is music too. Alone in my room I heard the chant of a large crowd. Chanting together. I had no idea what was happening but I was pretty sure that I did not want to be noticed. Turned out, it was the annual school teachers strike, complete with angry speeches. Carlos did that crossover from hussle to providing good service. Thanks for your help Carlos.

Leaving Oaxaca
 

Good food, good service and tolits that work in customary ways were a refreshing change but, it really was time to travel. All these cops and they show no more than a passing intrest in me. Not normal for 'Mr. Speed Racer' here. No, I did not stay at Marilyn Monroe Motel, but I could not help stoping for a picture. I should say that, nowhere in Mexico is a good place to have any issues with exactly where the edge of the road is. Some things are important. Also, I must confess, that after a week of being still , I remembered the map wrong. I went the right way but mixed up the distances. I thought it was 55 miles to a reasonable stop but it really was about 90 miles and late in the day. It was a really charming road quickly at first and then a lot of second and third gear stuff. And beatiful.

Into the clouds and beyond....
 

The road was in pretty good condition as I continued upward through 2nd and 3ed gear corners, occasionlly 1st gear. 40mph at the most. I got above the clounds and then back into them. It was foggy and I could see no more than maybe 30 feet. Then it started to rain. The rain stung my eyes as, I had my wet glasses in my pocket and the wet visor up in an effort to see. I have never seen it rain in the fog before. Who knew? Did I mention it was cold? Several peaks over 9,000 feet nearby. While I was struggling to see, the road got worse. Plenty of sandy pot holes and sometimes no pavement at all! It was hard to tell the differance. Ahead of time I mean.

Slow going
 

Got no fotos of the 30 ,more or less, miles I rode in the rain. Camera, wallet etc was in the saddle bag and fotos in the fog don't work well. I was cold and pretty much wanted off the damn mountain. I was glad to see a light under the clouds. I thought I was close to the end and stopped for a bite at an 'all night' place. It got dark as I ate and later after finding a hotel I checked the time;10:00. It was a hard day and not to be recondmended. Cars are more stable under these conditions and everyone behind me, I waved by. The night traffic on the montain was much easier to deal with than city traffic at night. Not a pleasing ride.

Baja Mexico
 

All, we are planning to do Baja Mexico and would appreciate 5 bullit points to consider.

On to Pochula
 

The 107k (64 miles) that turned out to be 229k (176miles) ended in Pochula and a warm safe room. Maybe 10 miles from the ocean. There is a thriving business in pay tolits on that route as it is in fact 142 k (85 miles) between towns. I am always struck by seeing a young family with no helments on a 125cc family bike. The smiling couple were very pleased to be photographed. The son was having issues before I showed up. These two stores sell underwear, purses and shoes.

flashback to 175
 

175, between oxaxca and the coast, was, a times, just as good as it might get and at other times cold, wet, scary and I just wanted to be finished with it.

Porto Angel
 

Some 10 miles and I parked on the the pier at Porto Angel. A favored restuarant on the sand, a look down the pier, across the pier and from my customary table. Also a fisherman preparing a 'tuna' for sale to the restuarant at the other end of the his boat.

finding a hotel
 

I spent some time just soaking it all in. Then, in my search for a room, I got hussled by this bunch. I wanted a cheap room, close in. At one point I counted nine of them all making a play for me renting a room right there. I had them help me carry my gear upstairs. That way I could keep a eye on my stuff, as well as them and they had a motive to not grab something and run. Got all the stuff put away and went downstairs and bought each one a coke, which made for big smiles and pressure for candy, too. It is cheaper than titheing (sp). The mother had no good humor and I am quite sure that, in her shoes, I would not either. Take note that no hot water is plumbed in for the shower or the sink. The small white bucket is used to flush the tolit. It has no other water plumbed to it. She said she had internet , but after she got the money, said it was down all over town.

The main road
 

On the main road through town, maybe a half mile from the pier, is my hotel. The latter I used to get atop the hotel. It proved to be quite sturdy. These guys set up all manner of jungle bird racket in the evening.

tip over
 

For those that don't know. In Mexico, there is not a lot of flashing yellow lights to be used for warning, so a rock is used. The road briefly goes to about a lane and a half here. It works fine for the locals. It was trying to get this picture that it tipped over. It waited until I walked about 15 feet up the hill and wound up with the top of the bike down hill in the grass, upside down rather than just on it's side. I was amazed to find, that for the first time ever, I could not pick my motorcycle up. I have given lessons! A mexican walking down the road helped and not much damage was done. Just chiping away at the arogance, as it were. Zipolite does not have a nudist beach. It has a bar with the policy that if a woman gets a little drunk and runs into the ocean naked, that will be ok.

a couple of husslers
 

This little guy was part of the gang of nine but he was the only one that followed me to the restuarant. He was helpful or cute as needed but it was not hard at all to find his dark side. This woman demanded money when I took her foto and then let me know that she needed more money than that. Only four kids helped me load up to leave. I kept them and my gear with me as we proceeded. I gave them each $10 (.75us) which warmed their hearts considerably. I would leave town soon.