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Report from a canceled trip - planning for South America
One big musician released an album
Report from a canceled divorse. And one famous Swedish musician once had to cancel a concert, due to his alcoholism. He than made the comment "A cancelled concert is also a concert" So in Covid 19 times, I though of writing a report of a cancelled trip. If a cancelled trip also is a trip. At least I learned a lot during prepration. A lot of the information is not new. But is found here un Horizions Umlimited. The story goes as far as it went before Covid 19. This my story, my thoughts and decisions. I do not claim what is ritght or wrong. Or that this is "better" than any other choice. Information is to my best knowledge. But do your own research. I will add some parts from time to time. Maybe the trip will be done for real some time. So far I travel in my fantasy |
Introduction
Introduction
My plan was to make a real long trip on a motorcycle during the winter of 2020-21. Pre conditions would then be in place. The house sold, I would have quit my work and broke up the family. Well, not really. But.... Residence I did not want to leave a villa in Sweden empty over the winter. So I had to wait until I had sold the house and moved into an apartment. An apartment in Portugal that I can lock and leave without any problems. So I can go without having to worry about an empty house. The house was sold in 2020. To adapt to external circumstances. Work I had previously been laid of in a redundancy process. First, I had a notice period. Then I received a severance pay and then unemployment insurance. It all ended in the end of 2019. And on 1/5 2020 I retired. (Early retirement) Family The wife decided in 2016 to invest in a new future. And disappeared. My 2 sons stayed part time in the villa for a while. Until their studies were completed. The last one moved out 2019. So the family had dissolved itself. This is the story of what happened (and did not happen) with this trip. |
Destination South America
Destination
Since I was planning a winter trip, it was clear that the trip would take place in the southern hemisphere. Southeast Asia, Africa, Australia or South America. And for me, South America was really the only option. There were several reasons for this. I've been to Ecuador 3 times a long time ago. And I saw how amazing it was. With everything from beaches, via the Andes to the Amazon. I lived there with my then wife's sister and family. I did quite some travelling by bus around in Ecuador. Below are 4 samples from Ecuador. From west to east. https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw...-no?authuser=0 Salinas https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw...-no?authuser=0 Guayaquil https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw...-no?authuser=0 Banos https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw...-no?authuser=0 Chimborazo https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw...-no?authuser=0 El Oriente I met very few tourists. But in the Andes and the Amazon, I met 2 kinds of tourists. The first variety had been a week in the Galapagos, and then stayed a week in Quito. The other varieties were back packers. Who travelled around South America. Their story fascinated me. And somewhere there, the idea was born to travelling around South America at some point. At that time I knew some Spanish. Now, most of that is forgotten. But it is a little easier for me in the Spanish-speaking part of South America. And I try to learn some Portuguese. Due to that I am moving to Portugal. Visas and such things are relatively easy for South America compared to many other parts of the world. Basically all countries offer 90 day Visa. And 90 days TIP (Temporary Import Permission) for the motorcycle. And no Carnet de Passages is needed. South America is big. And offers so many different natures and landscapes. So for several reasons, the choice fell on South America. But which part and which approximate route still remained to be decided. |
Sounds like a great trip - my dream journey is a loop through South America... but I can't see the photos you posted. There's just a grey circle with a minus sign through it for each pic.
NOTE: Never mind - now I can see the photos showing up 8 hours later... |
I can see the pictures using Safari on my iPad. They look good. As far as timing is concerned the stars seemed to have lined up for you to take the trip but then the sky filled with very dark clouds. One word of caution - it may be better to not visit your ex-wife’s sister......
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Great start Erik! Photos are fine for me on Firefox, Chrome and Edge, logged in or not, on PC.
brclarke, can you see them now? |
Now they are visible. Maybe I just needed to relaunch my browser...
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No problems with the pictures for me (Mac using Safari) but as a latecomer to the party I guess whatever the problem was has already been fixed.
So, before I settle in for the long haul on your report let me just check I've got the background straight: you separated from your wife some years ago, the kids have now left home as they've finished their education, you jumped into early retirement from work before the job disappeared, you sold your house in Sweden and you now live in Portugal. Is that right? And the plan was to do a long bike trip around South America during the winter just gone? Having a lot of friends and family in Sweden I can easily understand why you'd want to avoid spending the winter there, particularly if there's not much to keep you. Portugal though? We've had a couple of family members living there for decades and after one passed away a year or two back the other one moved back to the UK. She constantly complains about the weather here - even in the summer. Better pubs though (when they're open anyway). Ok, onto the next instalment .... |
How to get a Bike in/to South America
How to get a motorcycle in/to South America
Rent Renting a motorcycle is best suited for shorter periods of time. Otherwise the cost will be too high. It is also usually linked to a geographical limitation. That you are not allowed to leave the country where it is rented. It did not match my plans. So it was not a serious option. Buy and sell at the destination An interesting alternative is to buy a motorcycle. And then sell it when the trip is over. Then you avoid cost and hassle with shipping. And you can buy a motorcycle that is common locally. This prevents it from protruding. And that it is easier to find maintenance. (Spare parts and workshops). I looked at this a bit. But it takes time to find the right motorcycle, if you do not buy a new one directly from dealers. It needs to be reviewed. And equipped with various things to adapt for long journeys. Time taken from travel time in my case. The rules for non-citizens to buy a motorcycle in South America differ from country to country. In most countries you can buy a locally registered motorcycle. But do not leave the country with it. I abstained from this option. But continued to research around this. My conclusion is that the only countries where a non-permanent resident can legally buy a motorcycle. Register it with yourself as the owner. And then go beyond the country's borders are Colombia, Bolivia and Brazil. The supply of motorcycles in Bolivia is very limited. So then Colombia and Brazil remain. For Colombia, the change of ownership must be registered in Colombia. Both at the time of purchase and sale. So a working plan is to start the journey by buying a motorcycle in Colombia. Travel around it and return to Colombia. To sell it there before you go home. An interesting and affordable alternative for a trip where Colombia is suitable as both a start and an end point. The range of motorcycles is good. New is everything from Royal Enfield, Indian TVS and Chinese motorcycles. A Royal Enfield Himalayan is for me an interesting alternative. (I have driven one in Nepal, and know how well it is suitable for that type of road and traffic). Kirk Wilson made such a journey. And wrote a book about it. 20,000 miles Through South America. He used a motorcycle made in India. TVS Apache 160 cc. He travelled without camping equipment, which allowed him to go with light packing. https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw...-no?authuser=0 There is also an option to purchase a US registered motorcycle. And get it registered with you as owner.. With help from the USA. Without being a US citizen or even going to the US. There are various used motorcycles sold by travellers who have completed their journey. But to make such a purchase, one must really be at home in the bureaucracy. And probably be prepared to go into the grey zone of what is legal. Transport your own motorcycle That is probably the alternative that you think of in the first place. I had planned to buy, equip and test my own motorcycle. To then ship it tested and ready to use. I started reading various travel stories. And look for forums (For example, Horizons Unlimited). It turned out, however, that most of the companies referred to no longer offered these services. However, you can divide the possibilities into 3 main options. By boat, shipping in a wooden box A form of box is built on pallets. As the motorcycle is transported in. However, the box must be built of specially approved wood. A good idea is to ask a Motor cycle dealer. If they have package from new motorcycles. And if you build the box at home, the box must be transported to a port. My first plan was to build at home. And then get it driven by truck to Gothenburg. And then by boat to Buenos Aires in Argentina. However, it turned out that the shipping company's prices extended to the quay in the recipient country. To then get it out of the port and through customs was up to me. The cost and work of that procedure differs between countries. And there are also costs for storage for the bike during the time it takes to get it out of the port. Argentina proved to be one of the more difficult and expensive alternatives in terms of port activity. Better then to ship teh bike to Chile. https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw...-no?authuser=0 By air freight in a wooden box The difference here is of course the time that the shipping takes. But even the handling at the airport compared to the port differs. Handling at an airport in ex Argentina is much easier and cheaper than handling at the port. In addition, there are other companies that handle air freight than those that handle sea freight. An English company that deals with air freight is motofreight. Noraly aka Itchy Boots would transport his motorcycle from the Netherlands to Argentina. Then it turned out that the most advantageous was to drive it on wheels to the airport in England. And send it by air using that company. James Cargo. She just left it at the airport, and they did the packing. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=JuQ0...0hT6af&index=3 By boat, shipping in a container I've only seen one company offer that service. In Time in Hamburg. They send a number of containers Hamburg-Valparaiso back and forth every winter. Where you simply park and fasten the motorcycle in the container. As it is (without petrol and with disconnected battery) The company also has service in both places. To make everything as simple as possible. That was the option I chose. https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw...-no?authuser=0 https://www.intime-ham.com/en/motorc...alparaiso.html |
Motorcycle
Motorcycle
Model Some time ago, I read about 2 Swedish persons that made a South American trip. They used the BMW F650GS Dakar. So I thought of something similar. Most bikes can be used and have been used. The choice is a compromise. Weight, height, load, asphalt, gravel, maintenance etc. Pure enduro machines are usually tall, have a small tank and short intervals for maintenance. They require quite a lot of modifications to work for longer trips. So that segment went away. A too large and heavy machine only gives limitations. And adds nothing. So 1000 cc and up was not relevant. Really small machines such as Yamaha XT250, Honda CG160, NX 250 are not available in Sweden. Otherwise, it would have been interesting to choose a really light machine. I started to look at the Suzuki DL. I tested 250, 650 and 1000 cc. The DL650 was good enough for me. I did not found any need for a DL 1000. The DL 650 is available in an XT version. Which is a little better adapted for gravel roads / off road. The DL250 was enough. But it is not much lighter than the DL 650. And then there were no ready-made accessories to buy. I did not wanted to manufacture holders for top box and side cases. And various other accessories. Both Touratech and SW Motech accessories were available for the DL 650. So the Suzuki DL 650 XT became my choice. My compromise. I had planned to buy one in the beginning of 2020. And to get it ready and tested during that summer. Before the trip in the autumn of 2020. But in the spring of 2019, the correct motorcycle appeared at Sulas MC. Suzuki DL 650 XT model year 2016. It had been sold in 2017. It had been driven 3 000 km !! in 2 years. Maintenance was just done. So it was in condition as new, even it was 3 years old. It already had SW Motech side cases made of aluminium and an engine guard plate mounted. Equipment that anyhow had to buy. So a motorcycle in condition as new, with good equipment at a good price. It was just to close a deal. (If I were to buy one today, the Royal Enfield Himalayan would be an interesting alternative. A slightly smaller and lighter motorcycle. Well adapted for South America. Maybe I'll buy one in Bolivia, sometime in the future. But for now, I am happy with my choice). Modifications
As for tires, it is again a compromise between mud, sand, gravel and asphalt. Price, grip, durability etc. I chose to put on the Mitas E-08. Which should be 80% country road, 20% off road. It works well on ordinary gravel roads. But not enough in sand and mud. Before the trip, I thought of switching to Mitas E-07, which will be 50/50 on / off road. But after testing these tires on another motorcycle, I want another front tire. So there will be an E-10 as front tire and E-08 as rear tire. When these wear out, I switch to whatever is available where I am. With a good pattern. Test driving https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw...-no?authuser=0 I have driven it 7 000 km in 2019 and 6 500 km in 2020. Everything is well tested and works well. I am satisfied. It is good enough and the rest of the budget is needed for other stuff and the trip itself. Pictures of the modifications https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw...-no?authuser=0 https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw...-no?authuser=0 https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw...-no?authuser=0 https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw...-no?authuser=0 https://photos.google.com/share/AF1Q...RCdmVIeG8weHVR https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw...-no?authuser=0 https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw...-no?authuser=0 https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw...-no?authuser=0 https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw...-no?authuser=0 https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw...-no?authuser=0 https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw...-no?authuser=0 https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw...-no?authuser=0 https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw...-no?authuser=0 https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw...-no?authuser=0 https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw...-no?authuser=0 https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw...-no?authuser=0 https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw...-no?authuser=0 https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw...-no?authuser=0 https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw...-no?authuser=0 https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw...-no?authuser=0 (And a small note: There are a lot of good bikes. Please do not list them here. Do it in "Which Bike" Thread. Keep comments to this bike)) |
Looking forward to your updates :) !
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Equipment
Other Equipment
Camping Equipment I am used to camping on my motorcycle tours. Most people in my generation have given up camping. And live in hotels. They have dinner and breakfast in the dining room. Except at biker meetings. But I live in a tent. And make my own coffee in the morning. I plan to camp a lot during this trip. Mainly at campsites, With access to toilet, shower, electricity and possibly cooking facilities. And sometimes take in a room. I have various equipment that is suitable for weekend trips and shorter trips. But for a trip like this, I wanted better quality. In order not to be left with broken equipment, in the middle of the journey. So a proper tent is needed. Although it is not cheap. I expect the cost to be spread over many nights. Both for this tour and in the future. And using LPG kitchens does not work, as it is difficult to find LPG. So a multi fuel stowe was needed. These are the most important parts
Riding Gear When I go on day trips and on weekends, I often drive in leather clothes. And has a rain gear in the tank bag. Leather provides good protection. But gets cold when it's cold. And warm when it's hot. And if it gets wet, it takes a long time to dry. So it must be an all-weather stand of the Gore-Tex type. I have Swedish Jofama jacket and trousers. Not particularly remarkable. But it is made for Nordic conditions. But that should be enough. The alternative is a large investment in Rukka equipment. But with a Rukka set, I would never need to buyt something again.
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw...-no?authuser=0 Typical Swedsih biker event. Where I use to go. Simlar events happens every weekend during the whole summer https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw...-no?authuser=0 My new tent |
Planning
Planning
General Is a plan needed? Is not it just to get on the motorcycle and leave. In any case, not directly. First, the transport of motorcycles, drivers and equipment must be planned. And that it meets up at the starting point. But then? I do not have endless time and money. So I need some kind of plan for the trip, estimation of costs and time. We have seasons. With summer, winter and rainy seasons. So it is important to think about, so that you do not end up completely wrong. I travel a lot to see interesting places. And some places you dive into when you least expect it. Even when driving wrong. But many places are missed, if you have not read on before. It is good to find out beautiful roads and nice places. My view Dwight Eisenhower on the invasion of Normandy.
However, one should not think that one can follow the plan completely. Nor try. The plan is a basis for improvisation. And a help to understand the consequences of what you do. The planning for me contains mostly what I plan to do. Less about time. The schedule does not contain any details. But is just a rough plan to not end up completely wrong. Then I like to plan. To read guidebooks. Trying to find interesting places and roads. I think it's more fun to see places I know a little about. And to dream of the journey. It also creates pleasant days in the winter darkness or in Covid19 in quarantine. So sometimes I can get quite detailed. But even the detailed planning is not something I try to follow exactly. It is used more as a collection of ideas, to puzzle with. But sometimes it can be good to know that something interesting happens one day a week, and what day. So that you do not come to the place the day after the interesting thing happened. And to know that this particular exit road leads to that fantastic place. |
Plan 1: Around South America
Route
Alternative 1: South America great tour My first plan was to take a tour along the coast of South America. As basic idea. Starting in Buenos Aires-Argentina. After sending the motorcycle there by boat. Which was still the plan. But the route can remain the same, even if it starts in Chile. Following the Atlantic coast down to the southern tip of South America at Ushuaia. And then driving north through Argentina and Chile . Possibly including Bolivia. Then on to Peru, Ecuador and Colombia. The picture is very simplified. The intended route was much more extensive, there were a number of detours and small roads. https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw...-no?authuser=0 Rough sketch of the intended route Once in Colombia, the question arises as to how to get to Brazil's Atlantic coast. Via Venezuela and the Amazon? Would that be possible? Hardly. The border with Venezuela has been closed for a long time, and will certainly continue to be so. And the roads in the Amazon are tough. BR 319 through the Amazon probably requires more of both the motorcycle and the rider than I can handle. And you really need to think about the season. So that you do not end up in mud. More likely then was to choose to drive back to Peru. And there travel via Bolivia to Rio De Janeiro and then continue via Uruguay back to Argentina. Maybe after a trip up to Fortaleza. But when I looked more closely at such a route, it requires significantly more time than the approximately 4 months that I had intended to be out. I would probably like at least 6-8 months for such a journey. In that case, it may be divided into 2 stages. And split it into two journeys. https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw...-no?authuser=0 The road back through Peru and Bolivia, instead of the road via Venezuela and the Amazon. My plans were to stick to southern South America this time. Although a completely new idea of travel in the central area of South America began to be created in my head. More about that in the next chapter. |
Plan 2: Following the two "G"s
Route
Alternative 2: Follow Ernesto and Alberto During the time I was planning, I read a lot about South America. As part of preparing myself. And because I'm interested and want to know more about places that I plan to travel to. I also saw the movie about the journey that Ernesto (Che) Guevara and Alberto Granado made in 1952. A journey of 4½ months and 14,000 km. Which started on a Norton 500 cc motorcycle named La Poderosa. The movie is largely based on the books that were written. https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw...-no?authuser=0 The Movie https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw...-no?authuser=0 Ernesto's diary. "The Motorcycle Diaries". Which is the most famous book, and also the one that gave the name to the movie . But the book is not really a diary. It is a summary that he wrote after the trip was over. What is less known is that Alberto wrote a real diary. Written during the journey. It was originally written in Spanish with the title "Con el Che por Sudamérica". It was later translated into English with the title “Traveling with Che Guevara: The Making of a Revolutionary”. https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw...-no?authuser=0 Both books are very interesting. And they often gives a slightly different views of the same events. Ernesto and Alberto interpreted the same information in different ways. It is clear how the trip and what they saw during the trip, affected them. They realized that change was needed, in one way or another. Simply put, Guevara left as Ernesto and returned home as Che. La Ponderosa broke down in Chile. And they had to continue on foot. Hitchhiking and begging. Once in the Amazon, they went by boat. And then fly out of there. The idea was to follow in their footsteps as best I could, so far afterwards. For the part that they did on motorcycles and as hitchhikers. (Not the boat trip) From Cordoba to Pucallpa. Northwest of Lima. A journey of about 7,500 km according to the map. I was going to transport the motorcycle to Valparaiso. Then the first stage would be to get me to Cordoba. After Pucallpa, I planned to go via Bolivia, and visit the area where Che spent his last days. Before I returned to Valparaiso. Via Ruta 40 in Argentina. A journey that on the map would be a total of about 14,000 km. Suitable for 4 months. https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw...-no?authuser=0 https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw...-no?authuser=0 The journey of Ernesto and Alfredo. From Cordoba to Lima. The Journey than continued into the Amazon. https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw...-no?authuser=0 The continuation into the Amazon It turned out that there is a person who made a similar trip as the one I planned to do. He did it almost 50 years after the two original travelers. And he has written a book about his journey. "Chasing Che: A Motorcycle Journey in Search of the Guevara legend". He follows Ernesto's and Alfredo's road to Lima. Where turns towards Bolivia. Instead of venturing into the Amazon. In Bolivia, he searches for the areas where Che's life ended. He also makes a trip to Cuba and meets Alfredo. Although it was almost 50 years after the original journey, he finds the traces of Ernesto and Alfredo. Things that you would not find today. This book is an interesting story about the author's own journey and about the journey that the two "G" made. Both as a story about the journey itself and about how that journey changed the travelers. https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw...-no?authuser=0 I will not make this trip now. But it is far from deleted from the wish list. It will remain as a future dream. |
Plan 3: Ruta 40 and Carretera Austral
Alternative 3: Ruta 40 and Carretera Austral, version one
Argentina The more I read about Argentina, the more confident I became that Ruta 40 would form the basis of my journey through Argentina. "La quarenta" https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Nation..._40_(Argentina) My plan was to drive it in its entirety. From La Quiaca in the north to Cabo Virgines in the south. Ruta 40 is 5,194 km long. (Changes happens) With altitude from sea level to 4 270 m. I didn't just want to drive selected parts, but the whole distance. But at the same time not with the purpose of driving from A to B to tick off an achievement. But to experience Argentina. Culture, landscape and many sights. To follow Ruta 40 and make many small detours. But always return to the same place, so as not to miss any part of Ruta 40. I made a plan, based on two excellent guides, which included the detours. And then the sum was 6,700 km. https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw...-no?authuser=0 Ruta 40 And after Ruta 40, I was going to continue down to Ushuaia. As far south as you can go. Not because it seemed particularly interesting. But a "must." Chile Chile also has a fantastic road. A road along the coast. The road was built to unite the southern parts of Chile with its central parts by land. A project that is still ongoing. That road is called Carretera Austral. And is also called Ruta 7 https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Carretera_Austral Now it's not the road the whole way. 3 ferries included. Carretera Austral is 1 240 km, and goes largely through "wilderness". My plan was to go the full length from Villa O'Higgins in the south to Puerto Montt in the north. With the same principle of detours as for Ruta 40. Here too, I made a plan with excursions along the way. It ended with about 2,000 km. https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw...-no?authuser=0 Carreta Austral Bolivia I had no special plans for Bolivia. More than visiting a few national parks, the area of Che's last days and La Paz. Before I was to head into Argentina, where Ruta 40 starts. Putting all pieces together Starting in Valparaiso-Chile. Driving north through The Atacama Desert. https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Atacama_Desert And in Northern Chile, drive towards La Paz in Colombia. From La Paz down to La Quiaca. Ruta 40 to Cabo de Virgines. And continue to Ushuaia. Visit the Torres del Pain National Park. There is no road connection from Argentina across the border to Villa O'Higgins in Chile. You have to go further north. To Chile Chico-Peurom Bertran. So it will be part of Ruta 40 going north again. Over to Chile. South along Carretera Austral. And then turn north to drive the entire Carretera Austral. So the southern part of Carretera Austral, I would drive in both directions. Then from the end of Carretera Austral in Puerto Montt, there is an easy ride to Valparaiso. (Transport) In total, it began to approach 20 000 km(17 500) https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw...-no?authuser=0 The complete journey Alternative 3b: Ruta 40 and Carretera Austral version two When I released how long the trip was. And that the most challenging and interesting part (Carretera Austral) was almost last, I thought it was better to go the other way. Starting by riding Carretera Austral. Then via Ushuaia to Cabo de Virgines. And then ride Ruta 40 north. In that way, I can use Bolivia as a buffer / reserve. If there is time / interest and money left, I include Bolivia. If not, Bolivia will be part of a later trip. So that became the plan. Something like this. https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw...-no?authuser=0 The complete journey |
Hello Erik. Interesting times now with RTW planning.
I rode Peru and Bolivia in 2018. Purchased a moto at Huanuco, Peru, Around The Block Moto Adventures. See his website. Toby was very helpful and I had no problems buying and selling back to him. Easy to cross borders, and a great trip. (In Bolivia, petrol is subsidized by the Govt, so you can only buy petrol at YPFB stations, at more expensive "Gringo price".) Good luck. Lou. (Australia) |
Detailed planing
Detailed planing
Ruta 40 Basis for planing Guía Turística Ruta 40 A guide to Ruta 40 from the ACA (Automóvil Club Argentino). Paper format in Spanish. The guide describes Ruta 40 in 9 stages. Each stage is described in 2 parts. The first part is about the road. Surface, distance, altitude and petrol stations etc. The second part is about sights in the area that the road passes. = El recorrido completo se presenta en 9 tramos, cada uno compuesto por dos partes: la primera es una Hoja de Ruta en la que se relata el avance del camino, con indicaciones planteadas* por nuestro equipo de relevamiento; incluye además información de servicios y dependencias del ACA. También el mapa del tramo correspondiente, con rutas nacionales y provinciales próximas a “la 40”, kilometrajes totales y parciales, reservas y parques nacionales, hidrografía y dependencias ACA. = Guía 100 Ruta 40 A guide to 100 most see attractions from Amazon. Kindle format in Spanish. The guide describes 100 sights in the area that the road passes = https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw...-no?authuser=0 https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw...-no?authuser=0 The Planing I read the ACA guide. And I put the stages and the interesting sights into my GPS. Since it's a Garmin, I used Base camp + OSM as maps. I also read through the 100 guide. And added the most interesting sights as way points. In an excel sheet I created some notes etc. So that once I am in place, I can easily create routes using the way points I have stored, including descriptions and comments. https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw...-no?authuser=0 Carretera Austral Basis for planing Chile: Carretera Austral: A guide to one of the world's most scenic road trips A Guide to Carretera Austral. Paper format in English. I read the description and the suggestions for excursions that are given. And I noted the ones that seemed most interesting. = This is the first guidebook focussed entirely on the magnificent and historic road uniting northern and southern Patagonia. The few hardy travellers that embark on this journey struggle to find even basic information about the region. The book provides visitors to the often-visited Bariloche and Chilean Lake District with a spectacular alternative means to reach the southern extremes of Patagonia. = https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw...-no?authuser=0 The planing The plan is to drive the complete Carretra Austral with excursions towards the border with Chile, and towards the sea. |
February 2020
February 2020
My Self I'm in better shape than in a very long time. I underwent a number of surgeries a few years ago. And since then, I have trained regularly to get in shape. Not related to this trip. But to be in good shape for any type of life. I spent 3 days a week in the gym. And 2-3 days a week with bike cycle rides (During the summer). Plus walks. I also had eye surgery. So that I do not have to use glasses. Which makes it much easier when working in the garage, for motorcycle riding etc. The regular house I have contacted brokers. We have made a plan for the sale of the house. A plan that gives the new owners access from 1/7. Even though I have already done a lot of work, there is still a lot to do before the house is ready to hand over. It will be a difficult time in April-June. Large part of the work can't start earlier. The apartment in Portugal The apartment in Portugal was purchased as a holiday apartment 2 years ago. Some things need to be fixed for it to function better as a permanent home. I travel down to Portugal and arrange with population registration, tax liability etc. And I booked a trip in March for relaxation and another trip in May, to arrange various bureaucracy before the move itself. The vacation house in Sweden It is closed during the winter. In anticipation of spring. And that I should be able to move some furniture and my own things there. And get it ready as summer residence. I need it when I leave the permanent residence. The garage I have rented a garage in Arboga from April. So that I can move motorcycles and some larger equipment there. The storage room I have rented a small storage room in Ludvika. To store my furniture, clothes and ornaments that I want to keep. And other things that is not needed for the now, but want to keep. The Plan The plan is to empty the regular home during the spring/early summer. April-June. To distribute everything to the recycling, garage, storage and summer house. To sell the house early in the summer. And to live in the summer house until autumn comes. And then move permanently to Portugal. The journey The plan for the trip is to ride a motorcycle from Sweden to Hamburg in September. To put the motorcycle on a boat to Chile. Then travel to Portugal and stay there until it's time to take the flight to Chile. The transport company has an offer for those who book early. "Early bird discount" So in February I make a booking of the transport for the bike. But in February, it was winter break in the Swedish schools. And during that period, quite a large number of people from Stockholm's upper class went to the Alps. Cross-country skiing in the Swedish forests or alpine skiing in the Swedish mountains is not good enough. In the alps, they spent the nights in Italy and Austria with after-ski. It was when the Covid 19 was common in that area. We know the result. They came home with Covid 19. Something we had no idea of what it was. Or how it would affect everything. At first it was seen as a new mild flu. Then they began to suspect that something worse was going on. Portugal saw what was happening in Central Europe before themselves were affected. And they introduced "state of emergency" and "lock down" directly. In an attempt to keep the infection away or down to a minimal level. My trip to Portugal in March I had to cancel. There was not even transportation from the airport. And no opportunity to do anything in Portugal. The trip in May was cancelled by the airline. In May, a lot of paperwork would have been fixed. My official move date was May 1st. Since the trip was not done, it made it harder later. Then it was not long before I realized that there will be no trip to South America this year. Of course, this was a big disappointment after all the preparations, expectations and dreams. And I also feel sorry for those who were travelling in South America when Covid19 struck. And got stuck there. At first, many thought it was better to wait out Covid19 in South America, than in Europe. But with a curfew, etc., it became difficult. Visa for people and TIP for motorcycles expired. And since you could not drive on the roads, you could not even get to the airport or harbour. And get your bike back to Europe. But my preparations for a South American journey remain for the future. If / when Covid 19 can be handled. And if I can keep the health needed for such a journey, the journey will be done. Covid 19 will probably be over soon, I thought then. So I'm going next year instead. |
So it was Covid that killed the trip. I wondered whether it would be as I read through the earlier episodes or whether, like a book that keeps you guessing to the last page there would be a last minute twist. Maybe you'd have second thoughts at the foot of the steps onto the plane or abandon it all a week in. :rofl:
It's a pity when things don't work out for reasons that are outside your control but travel plans, whether industrial grade or home brew, seem to have been one of the biggest casualties of the pandemic. Certainly last year it was responsible for two of my major travel ideas being postponed and neither of them have been resurrected this year. Whether I'll be able to put the spark of life back into them next year or just accept that their time has passed and move on to something new is still uncertain. One of them in particular has involved considerable time and a not insignificant amount of expense (probably getting on towards £10k at present). I'm still uncertain whether to keep financing it in the hope of an eventual departure date or just cut my losses. I also suspect quite a few other people here will have similar curtailed plan stories to tell. |
October 2020
October 2020
Now I live in Portugal. And I am not on my way to South America, but will spend the winter here. There will be no long-distance travel this year. This is what happened the last half year, and how the situation is in October 2020. My house in Sweden It was sold according to plan. And the new owners moved in 20/7. The apartment in Portugal. There was no trip to Portugal, neither in March nor May. Due to Covid19 restrictions and canceled flights. It was mid-August before I got here. I arranged some things (paperwork related to the move)). Then I went back to Sweden for a short period.. After than, I returned to Portugalin early October, for the winter. I drove my car down. With computer, TV, motorcycle equipment and a little more. It was all that was included in the move. https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw...-no?authuser=0 https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw...3-no?authuser= Pictures from Portugal The holiday home in Sweden I lived there during July-September. And fixed some things that was needed to be able to live for a longer time. I also fixed some shortcomings in the property. So now it works well as a summer home. It will be waiting for me until June next year. https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw...-no?authuser=0 https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw...-no?authuser=0 Pictures from Säl The garage The garage is full. After many transports. There is now a workbench, tools, equipment and motorcycles. https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw...-no?authuser=0 https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw...-no?authuser=0 Pictures from a man cave The basement storage It is ccording to the plan There is furniture, clothes and ornaments that I want to keep, and that is not needed now. https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw...-no?authuser=0 https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw...-no?authuser=0 Pictures from the storage The preparations for the trip to South America All the preparations for a possible trip could be carried out, although it was hard work. Significantly more than expected. Not so much related to the trip itself. But related to selling the house and move. The journey to South America The plans are ready. I hope that my health and situation in the world make it possible to go another winter. It is unlikely to be as early as 2021-22. Covid19 is significantly worse than we thought. And affects us for a long time to come. This is especially true of the opportunity to plan something over a longer period of time. Things change quickly. The winter 2022/21 I hope for many nice Motorcycle tours in Portugal, during this period. |
Erik, this is great info, especially for someone heading for South America. Do you mind if I change the thread title to "Report from a canceled trip - planning for South America"?
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Update September 2022
Two years have past since this trip was supposed to happen.
A period of Covid 19, Portuguese bureaucracy that made me without drives licence for some period. And a broken meniscus that needed surgery. But the recovery is on the way. Even it goes slow for an old man. Planning has restarted/continued even during dark periods. And it has taken another direction. I have dome quit a lot of research of regulations, costs and possibilities to buy a bike instead of shipping. I do not write the whole story here. But I am heading for Colombia. Where I can buy a bike ,get it registered with myself as owner. And drive it wherever I want. Legally. At least that is the plan. So I take my riding gear, camping equipment and a debit card and go to Bogota !! Bikes are also rather cheap there. The downside is tha the my main goal was to ride Carretera Austral and Ruta 40. That is far from Colombia. I want a "small" bike. That can carry hard panniers and quite some luggage. That has a decent seat height. And that is rather common in South America. I have made my choice. Both regarding model and new or used. That is a compromise that fits best with what I want to do with the bike. Hint: The bike is produced in Argentina. (That is goof when it comes to taxes. Import taxes are much higher for complete vehicles than for parts. => That creates jobs in Colombia) But for opinions about bikes, I refer to the section "which bike" Flight to Colombia is October 4th. So it is rather close. I have contact with a dealer. And I have information about the process for RUNT. I expect a couple of days to fix the RUNT registration. And the dealer wants 3 days to do the paper work. I will also add a list of extras to the bike. Panniers and a top case. Some protectors. And some electric stuff. Outlets and mount for navigation equipment. Maybe I should end this topic here ?? And start a new thread about the trip. That starts with "Buying and registration an bike in Colombia" And "making it ready for travelling" Vaya con Dios |
I wouldn't take too seriously any claims of rugged adventure and pristine wilderness on the Carratera Austral (e.g., " The few hardy travellers that embark on this journey struggle to find even basic information about the region."). It's a well-worn route, frequented by all sorts of soft-in-the-middle travelers like myself. If you're craving difficulty, there's a route between El Calafate and Villa O'Higgins which can be done on a small bike. Even there, plenty of information is available, scattered all around the internet.
Fair warning: lots of people tire of the distances, landscapes and sometimes headwinds along Ruta 40. And don't discount Peru, Ecuador, Colombia, or Bolivia.... |
"The downside is that my main goal was to ride Carretera Austral and Ruta 40"
No, there will no travel story. |
SA
Try Punta Gallinas Colombia if your really into a great desert Adventure
Not too many foreigners go as far north as you can go in South America |
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