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I only did the Tajik side of the Wakhan. I would've loved to cross into Afghanistan but to be honest I didn't even look into it and I also have a bit of a time deadline to cross China. The Tajik visa is very easy through an e-visa system. Pay and receieve within a couple of days |
It had been a cold night camping in the Wakhan but it was peaceful sleeping by the sound of the river.It was a slow start to the morning but some tea bags I had from Almaty were a little luxury. There was only 44km to cover today but it was going to be tough
https://scontent.ffru2-1.fna.fbcdn.n...e8&oe=5E003BAF https://scontent.ffru2-1.fna.fbcdn.n...c3&oe=5E0AD45F https://scontent.ffru2-1.fna.fbcdn.n...e8&oe=5E05F78A As we were about to set off, the Unimogs rolled up again, looks like they would be constant travel companions through the Wakhan The road got narrower but remained rocky as we climbed higher alongside the beautiful river https://scontent.ffru2-1.fna.fbcdn.n...9a&oe=5E35B684 https://scontent.ffru2-1.fna.fbcdn.n...9a&oe=5DF0FDED https://scontent.ffru2-1.fna.fbcdn.n...07&oe=5E34A65F https://scontent.ffru2-1.fna.fbcdn.n...77&oe=5DF134DC https://scontent.ffru2-1.fna.fbcdn.n...0c&oe=5E37361B There were a lot more bikers on the road today including one guy I had met at the workshop in Osh on an Africa Twin. Despite having a huge tank as well as 2 5 litre containers he had managed to run out of fuel the previous day. He hadn’t bothered to fill up at the last two places simply because he thought his bike would make it. But it seems degraded fuel quality in the Wakhan threw off his estimates. A perfect example of why I fill up every chance I get no matter how little it is https://scontent.ffru2-1.fna.fbcdn.n...8d&oe=5DF6A432 Bit of an obnoxious guy too Just jumped on the Monkey and took it for a ride https://scontent.ffru2-1.fna.fbcdn.n...cf&oe=5DFD9DE1 https://scontent.ffru2-1.fna.fbcdn.n...a6&oe=5DF8E0B1 There were a lot of deep sections along the way and at one point the bike was bogged to a point it was standing on its own in the gravel. I contemplated getting off to get a photo but the wind was still swaying the bike side to side so thought I better not risk it just for a photo. There were beautiful views of the mountain ranges on the horizon as we continued climbing higher and the landscape started getting more lush as well https://scontent.ffru2-1.fna.fbcdn.n...df&oe=5DF194DC https://scontent.ffru2-1.fna.fbcdn.n...62&oe=5DFDE6BD https://scontent.ffru2-1.fna.fbcdn.n...18&oe=5E06F0AB https://scontent.ffru2-1.fna.fbcdn.n...fb&oe=5DFEF40E https://scontent.ffru2-1.fna.fbcdn.n...b4&oe=5E32ED0A https://scontent.ffru2-1.fna.fbcdn.n...08&oe=5DEFA0E1 https://scontent.ffru2-1.fna.fbcdn.n...1a&oe=5DF786BA Everytime I was on one surface I would wish it was another and then when another would come then I would wish for another. https://scontent.ffru2-1.fna.fbcdn.n...a2&oe=5DFA72F3 https://scontent.ffru2-1.fna.fbcdn.n...24&oe=5DFEC1D9 As we were nearing Langar, we ran into Unimog guys again, this time they invited us for tea and biscuits. Finally! But it was nice as we were getting hungry and didn’t have a lot of food on us https://scontent.ffru2-1.fna.fbcdn.n...d5&oe=5E3AE778 https://scontent.ffru2-1.fna.fbcdn.n...45&oe=5DFD987C The descent down to Langar was tough. I knew it was going to be steep but each hairpins were deep sand which had me white knuckle grip and some how crawling through each corner praying I didn’t topple over the side of the cliff (a fear I had all day and was happy I was doing the Wakhan headed west rather than east which would have me riding on the cliffside) That’s me far off the distance crawling down sandy switchbacks https://scontent.ffru2-1.fna.fbcdn.n...2a&oe=5E05FCF5 https://scontent.ffru2-1.fna.fbcdn.n...73&oe=5DFAB8F9 When I finally got to the homestay (mehmankhana; a word I recognised from Hindi as it seems the Farsi spoken here is starting to have similarities to other languages I know) in Langar, I was so glad to have made it through this section which is supposed to be the hardest. It took us two days whereas it takes most people a day but at least I got it done without any falls or mechanical issues! https://scontent.ffru2-1.fna.fbcdn.n...88&oe=5E334C52 https://scontent.ffru2-1.fna.fbcdn.n...14&oe=5DFCBBE1 https://scontent.ffru2-1.fna.fbcdn.n...51&oe=5E056041 https://scontent.ffru2-1.fna.fbcdn.n...22&oe=5E01D283 https://scontent.ffru2-1.fna.fbcdn.n...35&oe=5E36AAA4 https://scontent.ffru2-1.fna.fbcdn.n...22&oe=5DFBDD94 Really hoping the next sections are better as people are saying. Mongolia prepared me well but this was definitely tougher. Glad it is behind me but also glad I gave it a shot. |
PAMIR – MY FAVOURITE DAY
The reports about the road onwards from Langar were a little mixed. Some said that the hardest part was behind us but a particularly loud cyclist at the homestay insisted that there was some seriously tough road ahead Leaving Langar https://scontent.ffru2-1.fna.fbcdn.n...ad&oe=5E012B5C Finding out for myself would have to wait a little though as we didn’t get even 2km from Langar to the next village of Hisor and I saw a big festival taking place in a compound by the road. I stopped to peer over the wall but the people insisted I come inside, so, I did. It was a vibrant festival full of traditional music, dance and singing. I felt so lucky to be able to see it https://scontent.ffru2-1.fna.fbcdn.n...d1&oe=5E0A24C7 Back on the road, the surface was fairly rocky but much better than yesterday! https://scontent.ffru2-1.fna.fbcdn.n...b2&oe=5DFDEC53 https://scontent.ffru2-1.fna.fbcdn.n...6c&oe=5DEF2FAB A quick stop for fuel in Vrang (by bucket of course) https://scontent.ffru2-1.fna.fbcdn.n...65&oe=5E3A0FD1 https://scontent.ffru2-1.fna.fbcdn.n...4e&oe=5E074721 We also made a decision to only cover about 50km today as there were some nice homestays at Yamchun to split up the journey to Ishkashim On the way, I tried to visit a museum in an effort to take in more than just whatever I see from the bike but failed at actually finding where it was. Above the homestay there was also a Silk Road fort but the 1km climb to the homestay was so ridiculously steep that I ditched all plans of climbing another 7km to the fort. However, the climb was worth the homestay with a wonderful man named Akim who had been a professor in Russia. He lived there in a traditional Pamiri home with his wife, daughter and grandson. It reminded me of my grandparents home while wandering around Akims vast fruit and vegetable garden, apricots drying on the roof, overlooking the fertile Wakhan Valley with Afghanistan in sight. https://scontent.ffru2-1.fna.fbcdn.n...32&oe=5DF3D9F5 https://scontent.ffru2-1.fna.fbcdn.n...e4&oe=5E0826CD https://scontent.ffru2-1.fna.fbcdn.n...78&oe=5DEFA1B3 Akim with his wonderful garden (this is only a small part of it!) https://scontent.ffru2-1.fna.fbcdn.n...76&oe=5DFD4F8A Akims wife at a tandoor (traditional oven) https://scontent.ffru2-1.fna.fbcdn.n...94&oe=5DF9C25A https://scontent.ffru2-1.fna.fbcdn.n...f0&oe=5E374DCB I was able to have some great conversations with Akim in my broken Russian while we sat in his family room watching the evening news (Afghani); there had been bombings in Kabul https://scontent.ffru2-1.fna.fbcdn.n...63&oe=5DF81FDF https://scontent.ffru2-1.fna.fbcdn.n...14&oe=5E34E1C7 https://scontent.ffru2-1.fna.fbcdn.n...f6&oe=5DFD4061 A place to sleep in the Pamirs https://scontent.ffru2-1.fna.fbcdn.n...7d&oe=5DF205B4 It was so surreal to think that this country we always hear about in trouble was literally across the road seeming as peaceful as can be. In conversation it came up that I worked in IT and Akim asked if I could fix their computer which was having some issues. Not really knowing what to say, I agreed, only to be brought out a printer. Turns out their computer problem was actually a copier that wasn’t working (required to copy passports of guests staying with them as per government regulations) At first I was a little perplexed and didn’t want to sound too stupid but then I was sure…there was no toner cartridge at all! https://scontent.ffru2-1.fna.fbcdn.n...f7&oe=5E05A5B7 A great days ride, a colourful festival, good weather and a lovely family. Today was my favourite day. |
The ride back down from Yamchun was so steep (and rocky) that I thought I was going to go over my handlebars.
https://scontent.ffru2-1.fna.fbcdn.n...d1&oe=5DFB6D42 Another short 50km to Ishkashim today and the road surface was improving so I was determined to do some sightseeing! https://scontent.ffru2-1.fna.fbcdn.n...a8&oe=5E3BE0D1 But first, I had a chance to make up for another lost opportunity. Going up a small pass there was a deep sandy section. I started slowly making my way through it as usual but then realised the bike was stuck. I had missed out (made a smart decision not to) on taking a photo of the bike standing upright in gravel day before yesterday and it had been bugging me! I stood up off the bike; it was still standing Ok, here we go, lets get off and get this photo… noooooo…..and over the bike goes on top of me https://scontent.ffru2-1.fna.fbcdn.n...33&oe=5E323992 https://scontent.ffru2-1.fna.fbcdn.n...98&oe=5E39EA75 https://scontent.ffru2-1.fna.fbcdn.n...51&oe=5E01BF9A Luckily it was a very soft landing into the sand with no harm done but I should probably give up on the idea of this photo Bikers from Slovakia Check out the Rossi plates on the Ducati https://scontent.ffru2-1.fna.fbcdn.n...26&oe=5E3BDFC6 https://scontent.ffru2-1.fna.fbcdn.n...aa&oe=5DF18918 https://scontent.ffru2-1.fna.fbcdn.n...21&oe=5DEFBA59 I stopped off at a small museum run by a talented musician who gave me a history lesson in Russian of the Pamir and Wakhan; his family lineage could be traced back to the area over a thousand years! https://scontent.ffru2-1.fna.fbcdn.n...df&oe=5E376B14 Inside a traditional Pamiri home The number of rooms, pillars and everything has a certain significance https://scontent.ffru2-1.fna.fbcdn.n...06&oe=5E345AEC https://scontent.ffru2-1.fna.fbcdn.n...41&oe=5E3C50A5 Right opposite the museum was another fort too; Khaka Ata Fort. This region was very sought after due to how fertile it is so the people defended it well. It was also a major thoroughfare along the original Silk Road The front garden of the museum with Khaka Ata Fort walls visible on the opposite cliff https://scontent.ffru2-1.fna.fbcdn.n...42&oe=5DF10752 https://scontent.ffru2-1.fna.fbcdn.n...02&oe=5DF93232 Inside the fort https://scontent.ffru2-1.fna.fbcdn.n...b7&oe=5DF808D4 https://scontent.ffru2-1.fna.fbcdn.n...3a&oe=5DF5B9C3 At the front of the fort. Not much seems visible besides the outer walls https://scontent.ffru2-1.fna.fbcdn.n...76&oe=5E0899E2 An easy day with interesting people and experiences. The early difficulties of getting into the Wakhan are definitely paying off. https://scontent.ffru2-1.fna.fbcdn.n...20&oe=5DF663C0 |
Ishkashim was the first place in Tajikistan that felt like a town of sorts with paved roads and even traffic lights
So it made sense that the road was improving allowing me to cover 100km to the next city of Khorog; the furthest point I’d be going west on the Pamir I had originally planned to go to Uzbekistan but dialled that back to Dushanbe in the interest of not rushing through the Pamir where it would be once in a lifetime that I’d be there on a bike After hearing horror stories about the road and traffic conditions from Khorog to Dushanbe, I decided to simply turn around at Khorog and take the main M41 Pamir Highway back to Murghab then Osh (should be better road than Wakhan) to rest and wait for my China crossing The road along the river was still a bit rough but as asphalt started appearing just outside Khorog I couldn’t resist opening the throttle up a little and hitting sixth gear for the first time in ages A Russian biker we met along the way taking a video of the Gixxer https://scontent.ffru2-1.fna.fbcdn.n...c2&oe=5E3C7CAB And who’s that in the back? UniMog! https://scontent.ffru2-1.fna.fbcdn.n...42&oe=5E010F3F https://scontent.ffru2-1.fna.fbcdn.n...d0&oe=5E355FB9 https://scontent.ffru2-1.fna.fbcdn.n...4b&oe=5E046249 Afghanistan was so close I could hear the children in the school https://scontent.ffru2-1.fna.fbcdn.n...0a&oe=5E374C88 Freshly made samsa for lunch https://scontent.ffru2-1.fna.fbcdn.n...f5&oe=5E328D5B https://scontent.ffru2-1.fna.fbcdn.n...09&oe=5E05F359 https://scontent.ffru2-1.fna.fbcdn.n...1b&oe=5DF3DAAF https://scontent.ffru2-1.fna.fbcdn.n...2b&oe=5E32D929 https://scontent.ffru2-1.fna.fbcdn.n...c6&oe=5DF797B6 At a checkpoint along the Wakhan with girls selling fresh apples There are a few of these checkpoints where you need to show your visa with a special GBAO permit for the region and they record your passport details https://scontent.ffru2-1.fna.fbcdn.n...fc&oe=5DF5FDC7 A sandy soccer field for Tajik v. Afghan games? https://scontent.ffru2-1.fna.fbcdn.n...d7&oe=5E085F4D A brightly lit mansion on the Afghan side https://scontent.ffru2-1.fna.fbcdn.n...09&oe=5DFBF9C6 https://scontent.ffru2-1.fna.fbcdn.n...b8&oe=5DF2C1C5 https://scontent.ffru2-1.fna.fbcdn.n...6d&oe=5E3A05F2 https://scontent.ffru2-1.fna.fbcdn.n...5d&oe=5E034E2B https://scontent.ffru2-1.fna.fbcdn.n...d7&oe=5E085F4D Khorog was a nice place to recharge with a change of food at an Indian restaurant https://scontent.ffru2-1.fna.fbcdn.n...67&oe=5DF3626E I may have gotten a bit too adventurous and ate at a blatant Maccas rip off; Mac Doland which was worse than going hungry and had left me feeling a bit ill https://scontent.ffru2-1.fna.fbcdn.n...5f&oe=5E3B1015 https://scontent.ffru2-1.fna.fbcdn.n...04&oe=5DFBE0B1 There was also a KFC (Khorog Fried Chicken) that I had planned to try but best to give that a miss I think Khorog Bazaar https://scontent.ffru2-1.fna.fbcdn.n...61&oe=5DFB29C7 https://scontent.ffru2-1.fna.fbcdn.n...1c&oe=5E392635 https://scontent.ffru2-1.fna.fbcdn.n...00&oe=5E030FE6 https://scontent.ffru2-1.fna.fbcdn.n...83&oe=5DF46C56 https://scontent.ffru2-1.fna.fbcdn.n...1f&oe=5E34C687 https://scontent.ffru2-1.fna.fbcdn.n...48&oe=5DFE1DE7 https://scontent.ffru2-1.fna.fbcdn.n...69&oe=5DEF1B7D |
I had been nervous before riding through Mongolia
A little hesitant before riding through the Wakhan Valley But I was truly scared when a 3km descent down Kyzyl Art Pass lay ahead of me in no-mans land between the Kyrgyz and Tajik borders A couple of days ago I was hesitating to carry on due to my health, this time, it was snow. As I’ve mentioned a couple of times before, the Kyzyl Art Pass which lies in no-mans land between the Kyrgyz and Tajik borders is especially steep on the Kyrgyz side and composed of a red dirt that turns to mud at even the slightest hint of moisture. I thought my weather checks had been going well and our crossing would be 2 days after snowfall on the pass. It wasn’t until a cyclist who had come from that direction mentioned that he had ridden through snow that I managed to check the forecast again (over barely any internet) for the day of the crossing; it had been snowing 2 days prior consistently! The rest of the week showed clear but weather in the mountains is constantly changing; what f it kept snowing? The risk with snow is not the snow itself but when it starts to melt and turns into water. I didn’t take this lightly as I had seen first hand how steep the pass was and also the remnants of deep, muddy ruts from vehicles that hadn’t been as fortunate with the weather. More than just a fear of mud though, maybe it was compounded because I had come up the pass weeks prior and knew exactly what it was like or perhaps even the fear that I was so close to finishing this part of the trip and didn't want to stuff it up! After much deliberation, I set off. The strategy was to try and head off early in the morning (not so early that it was super cold but early enough that temperatures would still be below zero so the snow wouldn’t have melted yet) Heading off from Homestay Sadat in Karakul for the 2nd and final time https://scontent.ffru2-1.fna.fbcdn.n...fe&oe=5E322DDA It was cold! Super cold. I was thankful for my heated grips but for some reason was only wearing half the layers I was carrying. I felt bad for Yosuke though as he only had one heated grip working As we made our way up the Tajik side of the pass over the corrugated road, I also felt sorry for the cyclists; those silly, silly cyclists, what the hell were they thinking doing this crazy stuff?! https://scontent.ffru2-1.fna.fbcdn.n...9b&oe=5DFAB3E8 As we rode on, I was consciously watching every small river we passed being frozen solid; a good sign! But I could also see a clear blue sky above and slowly the water was starting to flow. The Tajik side of the border was very easy and then it came, the dreaded red stuff. Exiting the Tajik border post https://scontent.ffru2-1.fna.fbcdn.n...4a&oe=5DF9F7CC https://scontent.ffru2-1.fna.fbcdn.n...8e&oe=5E061B28 My riding buddy for the past two months; Yosuke on his Honda Monkey https://scontent.ffru2-1.fna.fbcdn.n...9c&oe=5DF5AC43 The snow had already started melting and there were some streams flowing across the path but they were light. https://scontent.ffru2-1.fna.fbcdn.n...af&oe=5DFC1832 My hands were in pain from the cold but I couldn’t wrap them around the heated grips as they were poised on the clutch and front brake slowly crawling my way down the steep hill trying to make sure I kept the front wheel straight through any mud https://scontent.ffru2-1.fna.fbcdn.n...0c&oe=5DEF205B And we made it! It was a slow crawl but we made it. For sure if we had come any later the snow melts would have made much more of a mess. https://scontent.ffru2-1.fna.fbcdn.n...a0&oe=5E011C82 https://scontent.ffru2-1.fna.fbcdn.n...15&oe=5DFC1ADF Red mud flung over the bike as a little caution of what could have been https://scontent.ffru2-1.fna.fbcdn.n...db&oe=5DFAB2D1 No more red mud! https://scontent.ffru2-1.fna.fbcdn.n...5c&oe=5DF52C96 But the road does fall away sometimes https://scontent.ffru2-1.fna.fbcdn.n...e7&oe=5DF5B7B3 A lot more snow than when we came by here a couple of weeks ago https://scontent.ffru2-1.fna.fbcdn.n...fb&oe=5E052E26 Crossed back into Kyrgyzstan! https://scontent.ffru2-1.fna.fbcdn.n...38&oe=5DF0F90A Back on tarmac just outside Sary Tash A hero shot of the hero bike https://scontent.ffru2-1.fna.fbcdn.n...fd&oe=5DF9AB64 We did it!!! https://scontent.ffru2-1.fna.fbcdn.n...e9&oe=5E330EC3 https://scontent.ffru2-1.fna.fbcdn.n...b9&oe=5E38FE79 From there on, it was easy sailing onwards to Sary Tash and then a paved 200km to Osh. The winding road back to Osh (my 2nd time doing it and I'll do it once more to return to Sary Tash for my China crossing) https://scontent.ffru2-1.fna.fbcdn.n...0e&oe=5DF85112 There's a little truck somewhere behind all that hay https://scontent.ffru2-1.fna.fbcdn.n...f7&oe=5E044D6C https://scontent.ffru2-1.fna.fbcdn.n...7d&oe=5DFD36AD https://scontent.ffru2-1.fna.fbcdn.n...ee&oe=5DEF6997 Our last biscuit lunch together on the road https://scontent.ffru2-1.fna.fbcdn.n...f1&oe=5DF27F3E A celebratory pizza party back in Osh https://scontent.ffru2-1.fna.fbcdn.n...08&oe=5E04BC05 Washing the Pamir off the bike https://scontent.ffru2-1.fna.fbcdn.n...12&oe=5DFA34C9 Farewell dinner for Yosuke who has returned to Japan and will come back to his bike in Osh in February https://scontent.ffru2-1.fna.fbcdn.n...27&oe=5E311F38 And in Osh, nothing! I was getting into Osh with about 9 days till I had to head back to Sary Tash for my China crossing but it was just what I need to unwind and regroup; sort out any small issues on the bike, eat good food and watch things on Netflix I’ve seen a million times before! |
Sorry for the lack of updates, I was behind the great firewall of China while crossing from Kyrgyzstan to Pakistan!
I would like to be chronological and write about my China crossing however the first full day of riding in Pakistan was just too good not to share! (I will get the China crossing stuff up as soon as possible) After spending the night in border town of Sost the first item on the agenda was some maintenance on the bike. Liaqat from Asia Star guest house who helped me work on the bike and get the luggage strap fixed A dirt cheap room at 1000PKR especially when the first government run motel wanted 4000 Also helpful that he used to be a chef as he made me an amazing chicken karahi for dinner https://scontent.fkhi11-1.fna.fbcdn....49&oe=5E33FFC7 On my first day in China I realised that my low beam headlight was blown! This normally wouldn’t be a problem as I never ride at night however this also happened to be the first time I HAD to ride in the night till 2am due to numerous and prolonged police checks. Ok, not a problem, going forward I don’t usually ride in the night anyway right? Not quite, in the 80km stretch from the Khunjerab Pass border till Sost there was a small tunnel which made me realise that riding in pitch darkness with only highbeams was not ideal AND that there was a 10km tunnel coming up on the next stretch! At least I had a spare bulb which I’d had the foresight to carry. Unfortunately, carrying it in soft luggage all this way left it looking a little worse for wear https://scontent.fkhi11-1.fna.fbcdn....7f&oe=5E35D124 I was scared to try and bend it back lest it break so mounted it as is, but of course, then it doesn’t light up the road quite right. So I took it out and tried to bend it back and to my relief it was just unseated, not actually bent! Unfortunately I touched the glass which I know you’re not supposed to do so hopefully that doesn’t cause any issues I’d also been a bit lazy about changing the headlight sooner as while its normally quite an easy job to remove one bolt to the dash and replace, it was more complicated now due to an additional metal brace I’d added from the main frame to the front fairing stay which utilised the same mounting. Next up, whilst getting my tools out of the tail I realised that one of my Kriega straps had frayed so badly it was hanging on by a thread. I didn’t have a spare of these but I was in Asia where a fix meant walking down the street and getting it patched up with some leather free of charge! From there, it was time to get onto the road for my first full day on the Karakorum Highway (KKH) and man was it beautiful. My first time seeing the colorful Pakistani trucks https://scontent.fkhi11-1.fna.fbcdn....45&oe=5E3B1B8A I’d been thinking what’s the big deal, I’ve been seeing mountains in various countries but the sheer size of what surrounded me was mind blowing. First view of the famous Passu Cones https://scontent.fkhi11-1.fna.fbcdn....31&oe=5E349C28 https://scontent.fkhi11-1.fna.fbcdn....b6&oe=5E37C4BD https://scontent.fkhi11-1.fna.fbcdn....b3&oe=5DFEDEBF https://scontent.fkhi11-1.fna.fbcdn....b0&oe=5E2B4488 And the view ahead was just as impressive https://scontent.fkhi11-1.fna.fbcdn....60&oe=5E357710 It was nice to just take my time on the road without any worry of police checks like in China or even time as I was only covering about 50km The hotel owner had suggested I stay in Hussaini near the suspension bridge and do some long walks however after even the 10 min walk to the bridge from where I parked the bike I realised my fitness is absolute rubbish and continued on into the Hunza Valley to stay in the capital of Karimabad. Walking down to the Hussaini Hanging Bridge https://scontent.fkhi11-1.fna.fbcdn....43&oe=5E2F73CE This is as close as I got It’s not a big deal to ride 15000km to get here but I’m still scared of heights *♂️ https://scontent.fkhi11-1.fna.fbcdn....97&oe=5DFF40EF On the way back I stopped for a drink in the yard of a local villager selling produce from their garden This is chumoos, a traditional apricot juice The gardens reminded me of my time in the Wakhan which kind of makes sense as geographically I’m quite close to the Wakhan in Tajikistan and Afghanistan; just on the other side of the Pamirs https://scontent.fkhi11-1.fna.fbcdn....99&oe=5E2DC788 Attabad Lake Formed in 2010 by a huge landslide that destroyed a section of the KKH Till two years ago the only way to cross it was by boat The Chinese have now built a long tunnel which has essentially realigned the KKH This is why I needed a headlight https://scontent.fkhi11-1.fna.fbcdn....b9&oe=5E27A3DD https://scontent.fkhi11-1.fna.fbcdn....37&oe=5E30F58E I got into Karimabad in the late afternoon and after a wrong turn ended up at a great place called Haider Inn where I’m paying $9 for a single room with an amazing hot shower beaten only by the view over the valley and the Rakaposhi mountain. The view from my room in Karimabad https://scontent.fkhi11-1.fna.fbcdn....91&oe=5E369EF7 https://scontent.fkhi11-1.fna.fbcdn....d0&oe=5E29A4AC Sunset over the Hunza Valley with Rakaposhi in the back https://scontent.fkhi11-1.fna.fbcdn....92&oe=5E3A39B2 https://scontent.fkhi11-1.fna.fbcdn....fb&oe=5E2D55EF Looking back up towards Karimabad https://scontent.fkhi11-1.fna.fbcdn....f0&oe=5DFAE5E9 I’ll stay here another night at least to go visit a UNESCO listed fort tomorrow and the local bazaar. I’ll also need to give some thought to the next week though as it looks like there is a few days of sustained rain and snow that I’d ideally like to avoid. |
The day off in Karimabad was well spent mainly between visiting the old Baltit Fort sitting atop the city and also just relaxing with beautiful valley views
The steep alleys in Karimabad up to Baltit Fort https://scontent.fisb5-1.fna.fbcdn.n...8a&oe=5E290526 View from the top of Baltit Fort https://scontent.fisb5-1.fna.fbcdn.n...ca&oe=5E270074 https://scontent.fisb5-1.fna.fbcdn.n...f6&oe=5DEEF331 https://scontent.fisb5-1.fna.fbcdn.n...7c&oe=5DFA104E https://scontent.fisb5-1.fna.fbcdn.n...90&oe=5DF82380 https://scontent.fisb5-1.fna.fbcdn.n...b6&oe=5DF497BF https://scontent.fisb5-1.fna.fbcdn.n...ff&oe=5E3D65C8 I set off early (by my standards) from Karimabad as it was a 200km trip down the KKH to the next accommodation; a place by the highway just next to a petrol station. https://scontent.fisb5-1.fna.fbcdn.n...51&oe=5E38D20F There was a town nearby called Chilas but I was advised to take Babusar Pass for which the turnoff was just before Chilas. So why go further to the town if I didn’t need to The ride itself was quite nice with a few points of interest well signposted that made for some nice sightseeing. The sacred Hunza Rocks that I had accidentally ridden past the previous day that I came back to see They contain graffiti from the days of the Old Silk Road https://scontent.fisb5-1.fna.fbcdn.n...25&oe=5DF1C0A6 https://scontent.fisb5-1.fna.fbcdn.n...e6&oe=5DF9DCAC https://scontent.fisb5-1.fna.fbcdn.n...25&oe=5E348CF5 https://scontent.fisb5-1.fna.fbcdn.n...3b&oe=5E2C446A https://scontent.fisb5-1.fna.fbcdn.n...00&oe=5DF5DE73 I travel the new Silk Road with the Old Silk Road carved high in the hillside above me (can you spot it?) How tough it must have been https://scontent.fisb5-1.fna.fbcdn.n...ce&oe=5E3B9634 https://scontent.fisb5-1.fna.fbcdn.n...73&oe=5DFAC599 I was starting to get a little hungry too but passing through small towns couldn’t quite decide on a café that looked good enough to not blow my stomach to bits. As I was passing through one small town, I saw many small trucks selling bananas. I stopped to ask how much for one and the guy was a little lost for words after I clarified I just wanted one banana, not one dozen. So, he gave me two free bananas; free lunch! https://scontent.fisb5-1.fna.fbcdn.n...36&oe=5DFA01C4 Ok I'll look to my right https://scontent.fisb5-1.fna.fbcdn.n...77&oe=5E24566A https://scontent.fisb5-1.fna.fbcdn.n...2e&oe=5E3B0852 But then suddenly the road completely disappeared! I had been told that the road gets a little worse before Chilas but the KKH went from being a buttery smooth road to the usual rocks and sand that I’ve gotten used to slowly crawling over https://scontent.fisb5-1.fna.fbcdn.n...07&oe=5DF1F7CD https://scontent.fisb5-1.fna.fbcdn.n...7d&oe=5E27F0DE As I got to the petrol station that I needed to fill up before he turn off to Babusar Pass, the hotels that I had thought would be there, weren’t; it was literally a bunch of small shops along the main road and nothing else Onwards to Chilas it is I guess https://scontent.fisb5-1.fna.fbcdn.n...1e&oe=5E332533 When I got to the turn off, there was a large police checkpoint who wanted to know why I was going to Chilas. I told them I just needed a place to sleep for the night and asked if there was any other alternatives around. There wasn’t. They told me to check back in with them on my way out the next morning. As I got into Chilas, it seemed like a quiet little town and I turned into the first guesthouse on the left and got a decent enough room down from 2500PKR to 2000PKR. It had air conditioning but sadly no hot shower. https://scontent.fisb5-1.fna.fbcdn.n...17&oe=5E3C6439 Normally I never watch TV but for some reason I turned the TV on and across all channels was the breaking news of the Pakistani Prime Ministers return from a speech at the UN General Assembly about the changes India had recently made in the disputed territory of Kashmir. Although I’m an Australian citizen, my background is Indian and through all my years of travelling to the corners of the world, for the first time, I felt uneasy about where I was. It doesn’t take long for people to figure out my Indian heritage, a question I’d already been asked many times since entering the country (and slightly made more confusing by having an Islamic first name despite not being so) I ordered some daal and rice from the kitchen in the hotel and the guy was kind enough to make it for me and bring it to my room. As I ate, I was craving a can of Sprite but I just felt uneasy going out into the town at night. The guy from the kitchen sent out for one but couldn’t find one. https://scontent.fisb5-1.fna.fbcdn.n...38&oe=5DF4C132 I shrugged it off and went to sleep. The following morning, I had a quick breakfast and hit the road. Just outside the town there was a sign for some ancient rock carvings. I pulled over to look at them and as I was walking around trying to find them a Pakistani guide who was leading a Japanese woman explained to me that a lot of the carvings had been destroyed or painted over as the people of the village still lived by Taliban ideologies. Suddenly it all started to fall into place. iOverlander only mentioned two hotels in town (which I saw after Id already checked into the guesthouse) and both had comments that these were the only ones deemed safe by the army. Since I’d arrived last night all the men Id seen had been dressed in a very conservative manner unlike the more relaxed culture further north. Women were nowhere to be seen and in general the town had a vibe to it that I didn’t feel safe going out even for a can of Sprite. And there it as in front of me now, ancient rock carvings painted over with an ubiquitous black flag. It was time to get the hell out of here. https://scontent.fisb5-1.fna.fbcdn.n...20&oe=5E2A069A https://scontent.fisb5-1.fna.fbcdn.n...97&oe=5E2E92A5 It was only when I met another rider, Marko (with whom I’d had contact on social media and knew he was coming the other way), that I started learning more like the fact that Chilas was one of the last places the Taliban had “officially” been pushed out of. And then when I next got Internet and met a Malaysian rider, I found out that there had been multiple murders of tourists and less conservative Muslims in the town and the hills surrounding it. The Malaysian rider coming the other way had also been advised by police to stay away from Chilas. Of all the nights I could pick to stay in a Taliban town it had to be the night where Pakistani patriotism was running high against its mortal enemy; my place of birth… Pakistan is a beautiful country and I’ve experienced great hospitality from the people I’ve met but I just need to keep moving through which saddens me |
From being worried and apprehensive to a great day!
As I mentioned in my last update, it was only on my way out of Chilas that I started finding out more about the rough situation in the area, so it was good to get back on the road even if feeling a bit anxious. The road itself was still fairly scenic through the valleys although there were still some broken sections. A truck that doubles as public transport https://scontent.fisb1-1.fna.fbcdn.n...43&oe=5E3923AE https://scontent.fisb1-1.fna.fbcdn.n...98&oe=5E2238B4 Colourful houses in the valley behind Babusar Pass https://scontent.fisb1-1.fna.fbcdn.n...a3&oe=5E2F8E7A The steep and winding switchbacks leading up Babusar Pass https://scontent.fisb1-1.fna.fbcdn.n...bd&oe=5E272D2B The other side of Babusar Pass https://scontent.fisb1-1.fna.fbcdn.n...36&oe=5E1DAA64 https://scontent.fisb1-1.fna.fbcdn.n...70&oe=5E2EA4B1 https://scontent.fisb1-1.fna.fbcdn.n...fb&oe=5E33B593 I had been told about a bus crash a few days before and here were the remains 26 dead :( https://scontent.fisb1-1.fna.fbcdn.n...0b&oe=5E2F0690 On my way so far, I had seen plenty of small bikes mostly belonging to the local villagers however there were a couple of local bikes I had seen with simple camping gear on the back and given a wave to what I expect were Pakistani guys exploring beautiful parts of their own country However when I saw a group of about 10 bikes parked up together I felt compelled to stop and I’m glad I did. As I started talking to them, one guy looked familiar so I asked him his name; Moin. Yep, I knew him, Moin Khan! Many years ago I remember reading his ride report on ADVRider as he had ridden his CBR (another sportbike) from America to Pakistan and on the way had gotten into a fairly big accident in Romania! He was leading a group of tourists up north and was kind enough to give me some information on road conditions and some water too (helpful since I was actually low on water and one of my two energy drink cans had managed to remain intact but puncture somewhere and leak all 250ml into the tank bag) https://scontent.fisb1-1.fna.fbcdn.n...e4&oe=5E3A0818 https://scontent.fisb1-1.fna.fbcdn.n...2c&oe=5DF2A9A1 I was very excited to meet and talk to a fellow sportbike tourer but of course we both had to keep moving in our respective directions. Unfortunately I also found out from him that my Saudi friend, Omar, with the GS310 that had battery issues in China had now had an engine failure and had been loaded up on a truck to Islamabad. https://scontent.fisb1-1.fna.fbcdn.n...ab&oe=5DEFE1C9 https://scontent.fisb1-1.fna.fbcdn.n...81&oe=5E28FE72 https://scontent.fisb1-1.fna.fbcdn.n...db&oe=5E373649 https://scontent.fisb1-1.fna.fbcdn.n...91&oe=5E1C473C https://scontent.fisb1-1.fna.fbcdn.n...95&oe=5E3717D8 Farmers working their stepped fields https://scontent.fisb1-1.fna.fbcdn.n...13&oe=5E3875C9 With Marko headed from NZ to Croatia https://scontent.fisb1-1.fna.fbcdn.n...7e&oe=5E3BBDE1 https://scontent.fisb1-1.fna.fbcdn.n...ea&oe=5E2CD894 https://scontent.fisb1-1.fna.fbcdn.n...7a&oe=5E1BF5FE https://scontent.fisb1-1.fna.fbcdn.n...84&oe=5E2FA768 For the day I had planned to stay in Naran, a hill station that seemed popular with locals and an abundance of hotels. Since I had no SIM card, I had noted down a few hotels with good reviews and amenities such as having a generator running due to unreliable electricity. The first place I pulled into was Manila Huts where I managed to get a great room for 2000PKR where their usual peak season rate was 14000PKR! https://scontent.fisb1-1.fna.fbcdn.n...f6&oe=5DF26F6D But besides it being a great room with safe parking, the people were the kindest I had met so far and not only eased my mind of the concerns of the past day but filled by heart with joy from their kindness I was told to get freshened up and then join the staff in the garden for a homemade lunch of daal and roti after which they used the chairs to set up a makeshift boundary in the garden for a game of cricket. https://scontent.fisb1-1.fna.fbcdn.n...d8&oe=5E3B8486 https://scontent.fisb1-1.fna.fbcdn.n...4f&oe=5E1B5E84 https://scontent.fisb1-1.fna.fbcdn.n...cf&oe=5E22FDC7 https://scontent.fisb1-1.fna.fbcdn.n...e7&oe=5E22D33A Later that night as I was about to walk down for dinner a big BMW was pulling into the hotel in the rain; a Malaysian rider headed up towards China https://scontent.fisb1-1.fna.fbcdn.n...72&oe=5E1C7F6F https://scontent.fisb1-1.fna.fbcdn.n...6b&oe=5DF20CD4 We went down to a restaurant where my excitement for Pakistani led to some over indulgement despite being very aware of the hot chilli laced throughout. Unfortunately this floored me for the next day and even though I was half packed and ready to leave the following morning, my stomach just hurt too much. 3 nights in Naran was unplanned but it was a beautiful place with beautiful people. https://scontent.fisb1-1.fna.fbcdn.n...b2&oe=5DEF6357 https://scontent.fisb1-1.fna.fbcdn.n...0f&oe=5E3D9D37 Islamabad is only 250km away but I think it would be a very big day so the plan is to break it up in Abbottabad. Its been a good break lazing with Netflix (and another dinner with the staff where I had some delicious chapli kebab despite it being a touch spicy again) but time to get moving again. |
Stay safe my friend. Keep posting please - great write up of a great journey
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Same keep up posts really enjoying, bringing back memories of my own previous trips Mongolia and more recently Pakistan recognised some of your place pics. Safe travels.
Thanks Joe |
P.S. You are not alone riding is OK but I was also not keen on the Hussaini bridge!
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When it came time to leave Naran for Islamabad, I felt like I’d shot myself in the foot for having taken an extra day on account of my stomach.
The forecast now showed thunderstorms throughout the afternoon along my route. However staying in Naran further was out of the question as the following days were snowfall! Obligatory photo of hotel staff with the bike https://scontent.flhe7-1.fna.fbcdn.n...b5&oe=5E63E611 Luck was on my side as always and I managed to miss the rain except for the last hour coming into Abbottabad. Incidentally, this was also my first taste of traffic in cities, something which I’m getting pretty worried about as I get closer to India https://scontent.flhe7-1.fna.fbcdn.n...6c&oe=5E2FC42E https://scontent.flhe7-1.fna.fbcdn.n...00&oe=5E2E3B29 https://scontent.flhe7-1.fna.fbcdn.n...00&oe=5E2E3B29 https://scontent.flhe7-1.fna.fbcdn.n...10&oe=5E32CB33 https://scontent.flhe7-1.fna.fbcdn.n...06&oe=5E1CEDAF https://scontent.flhe7-1.fna.fbcdn.n...52&oe=5E63E18E https://scontent.flhe7-1.fna.fbcdn.n...9b&oe=5E1C6948 https://scontent.flhe7-1.fna.fbcdn.n...3a&oe=5E21A5B0 https://scontent.flhe7-1.fna.fbcdn.n...10&oe=5E31A77B Looking down onto Abbotabad https://scontent.flhe7-1.fna.fbcdn.n...11&oe=5E24617A Although there was not a whole lot to do in Abbottabad, I decided to stay here an extra day as there was rain forecast the following day also, a day where I intended to take a scenic mountain route to Islamabad instead of the main road through many small towns. Unfortunately it seems that my chain is once again playing up with tight spots after having replaced it in Barnaul, Russia due to the same problem. After speaking with some people it could be that my sprockets are in poor condition since the first chain and this has caused the new one to go bad too. I’d been procrastinating checking my front sprocket (thought it was hard to get the cover off but took 5 minutes), but when I got it off, I pulled out a ton of build up from mud, road grime and chain lube. Before https://scontent.flhe7-1.fna.fbcdn.n...74&oe=5E627FE4 During https://scontent.flhe7-1.fna.fbcdn.n...4d&oe=5E2F828F After https://scontent.flhe7-1.fna.fbcdn.n...f2&oe=5E5FFBDC https://scontent.flhe7-1.fna.fbcdn.n...32&oe=5E3326F3 https://scontent.flhe7-1.fna.fbcdn.n...25&oe=5E1BA8BF https://scontent.flhe7-1.fna.fbcdn.n...47&oe=5E24ED72 Although my ride will end in India, I figured I may as well replace chain and sprockets as I found some in New Delhi. Better than causing any further damage or a possible failure. The road to Islamabad was quite good with winding roads through the mountains before a final descent down into the capital. The decision to wait a day paid off as it would’ve been annoying in a thunderstorm and my stomach still wasn’t letting me thoroughly enjoy my ride. https://scontent.flhe7-1.fna.fbcdn.n...49&oe=5E27A60D https://scontent.flhe7-1.fna.fbcdn.n...11&oe=5E1F7F81 https://scontent.flhe7-1.fna.fbcdn.n...8a&oe=5E2B29C6 Hopefully a few days in Islamabad will get my health back on track and get stuck into some Pakistani food |
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I’m in Lahore now but I’ve been having too much fun the past week or so and gotten lazy with updates!
I ended up staying 5 nights in Islamabad (4 planned, 1 unplanned but more on that later) mainly because it was the first place I had friends to meet! I had met Hamza in Sydney at the gym and even though the carpark was completely empty, I’d always park my WRX next to his Skyline (Car guy things) Hamza has 2 heavily modified Evos in Islamabad and through him I met a group of other great guys and got to take part in one of my favourite activities; eating with friends! We wouldn’t head out till around 11pm and then stay out till 2am or 3am taking in some of Pakistans best food! As difficult as it can be many days, I’m going to miss life on the road. However more importantly, I’m going to miss the great people I’ve met and the amazing hospitality I’ve been shown My first dinner of kebabs in Islamabad https://scontent.fisb6-1.fna.fbcdn.n...7b&oe=5E21DC25 Out for a late night drive in the Evo 6 after dinner; just like home https://scontent.fisb6-1.fna.fbcdn.n...69&oe=5E5CC36D https://scontent.fisb6-1.fna.fbcdn.n...2e&oe=5E1CC0D4 https://scontent.fisb6-1.fna.fbcdn.n...c3&oe=5E5CF9B5 Hamzas other Evo, a 9 https://scontent.fisb6-1.fna.fbcdn.n...b9&oe=5E19F6CA https://scontent.fisb6-1.fna.fbcdn.n...bb&oe=5E2D8DEA Fahads AE92 with a 3SGE swap and lots of very rare JDM bits like a digital dash as well as bits from the Holden Nova! https://scontent.fisb6-1.fna.fbcdn.n...bc&oe=5E2EB840 Heading to a drift meet https://scontent.fisb6-1.fna.fbcdn.n...18&oe=5E2B34A2 https://scontent.fisb6-1.fna.fbcdn.n...59&oe=5E62E35D https://scontent.fisb6-1.fna.fbcdn.n...62&oe=5E1BF2FD https://scontent.fisb6-1.fna.fbcdn.n...e7&oe=5E31C4A9 https://scontent.fisb6-1.fna.fbcdn.n...7f&oe=5E5BD2B7 Dinner at 3am https://scontent.fisb6-1.fna.fbcdn.n...2f&oe=5E24DC25 Faisal Mosque https://scontent.fisb6-1.fna.fbcdn.n...81&oe=5E6254E4 |
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