Horizons Unlimited - The HUBB

Horizons Unlimited - The HUBB (https://www.horizonsunlimited.com/hubb/)
-   Ride Tales (https://www.horizonsunlimited.com/hubb/ride-tales/)
-   -   Sauerkraut&Tofuwurst:Chapter II - a dog and a vegan dude on a sidecar across South Am (https://www.horizonsunlimited.com/hubb/ride-tales/sauerkraut-tofuwurst-chapter-ii-dog-86154)

SauerkrautandTofuwurst 20 Feb 2016 01:54

Sauerkraut&Tofuwurst:ChapterII+ a dog and a vegan dude on a sidecar around the world
 
I decided to post also in HU about my South America adventure. If you want to see how it all started please visit my webpage Sauerkraut & Tofuwurst

The story line...
A long time ago in May2013 a Finnish/German couple started together with their three dogs to ride around the world on their motorbikes. They rode together about 70000km through 38 countries across 4 continents. Tragedy happened when Hertta died late 2014 in the US. A major turning point was Costa Rica where Skippy decided to release Lyra and Ulpu from their anxiety of traveling in the sidecar. Instead we would get a car for the girls in Colombia and they could go on their own. Consequently Skippy sold her Suzi in Costa Rica. Wolfi did not want to go alone and so Peto joined as a travel companion for him. The journey continued for a little while with all being packed and loaded onto the sidecar. In Colombia we found a car for Skippy and Lyra & Ulpu. However a short while later we admitted that Lyra's travel days seemed to be over. Skippy sold the car and went back to Europe.
Wolfi & Peto continue with the sidecar through South America. On this blog and channel you will be able to follow Wolfi & Peto on their adventure, the up's and down's and how they manage now on their own without their cook, without Skippy, Lyra and Ulpu as travel companions.

Stay tuned for the stuff :scooter:

SauerkrautandTofuwurst 20 Feb 2016 01:56

Skippy's nightmare of leaving Colombia with dogs
 
It was time for Skippy and the girls to leave Colombia. We have traveled a lot but never ever had such trouble. Skippy was devastated and I am still missing words to explain what happened. See for yourself...



If you want to leave Colombia with your pet by plane then you must obtain an export permission from ICA for your pet. This also applies in case you owned your pet before you enter Colombia.

ICA office is in Bogota (I am not sure where else). This was the case with Avianca, maybe other airlines are less strict.

SauerkrautandTofuwurst 20 Feb 2016 11:13

Bordercrossing Colombia Ecuador
 
That was one of the easiest, smoothest, cheapest and fastest border crossing for a long long time. No fees, no trouble with the dog, no "helpers" and the customs officer at the Ecuador side even spoke some English. Despite other travel reports, there was no need for any vehicle insurance. Welcome to Ecuador!


SauerkrautandTofuwurst 20 Feb 2016 11:14

One down in the bucket list, many more to go - in Ecuador
 
Finally I crossed the equator with my bike. One down in my bucket list and many more to go...


SauerkrautandTofuwurst 20 Feb 2016 11:15

Wolfi's new master plan
 
Hanging in Riobamba and making new plans for the future.


SauerkrautandTofuwurst 20 Feb 2016 11:18

Oh shit - what to do now?
 
There I was - somewhat stuck in Ecuador. The big question is what I will do next after I realized that my great plan was rubbish.


SauerkrautandTofuwurst 24 Feb 2016 00:00

Market day and bike repair in Cuenca, Ecuador
 
Andres, the owner of the hostel, gave us a tour to the local market. Besides waiting for my parts to come, I repaired the leaking oil filter... hopefully.


SauerkrautandTofuwurst 24 Feb 2016 00:01

1000days on the road
 
It is difficult for me to comprehend that I have been on the road for 1000days now. This lifestyle with all its ups and downs has become the normal thing to do and I sometimes forget that I am on the journey of my life - seeing all those places, experiencing new cultures and all that on my motorbike! So much has happened during those 1000days... and when looking at the maps of South America so much is still ahead. And then there is still Asia and Australia :D

https://sauerkraut-and-tofuwurst.smu...259-003-X2.jpg

72000km 39 countries 4 continents :)

SauerkrautandTofuwurst 24 Feb 2016 00:02

Vegan pancakes, walking through Cuenca and the bike repair continues
 
I walked through Cuenca and started to work on my next project - getting the required papers for Peto to come to Europe. Meanwhile Andres made vegan pancakes in the morning and I continued to repair my broken rear shock.




Company who did the rear shock work:


Leon Motors

Taller especializado: motor, suspencion, frenos

Christian Leon (he speaks English and his wife speaks German)

Parque Industrial Modulo202

Cornelio Vintimilla y Carlos Tosi

Cuenca, Ecuador

0992832161

crisleonmx@hotmail.com

-2.876990, -78.977967

SauerkrautandTofuwurst 24 Feb 2016 00:05

Finnish sauna and vegan Falafel and maybe my last video - greetings from Vilcabamba
 
Vilcabamba - a village where local people are supposed to get very old. I enjoyed a great Finnish sauna and had excellent tasting vegan dishes there. Is this my last video?


SauerkrautandTofuwurst 24 Feb 2016 00:07

Vilcabamba, via Zumba, La Balsa (Ecuador) to San Ignacio (Peru)
 
I had really mixed feelings about riding this road. Butterflies were roaring in my stomach. The border crossing was one of the fastest ever!



Details on the border crossing

I crossed the border on Sunday 31.Jan2016 around 16o'clock. Customs and immigration on the Ecuador side took about 10min. Then I went to take copies of passport and bike papers for the Peru side. Besides that I changed a few dollars in one of the shops so I had some cash if needed. Nobody cared about Peto and a few locals sponsored my journey. Thank you very much!


I crossed the bridge, drove under the barrier and parked on the right side. I got the feeling of being in the wrong movie. Chickens with their little ones running all over the place. But no I was at the right place. However there was an electric cut and thus immigration guys did not want to do anything.


Then I went to customs because that anyway takes longer. So I filled the papers by hand instead of the guy typing everything into the system and then printing the cards. Now it came REALLY handy that I took some copies on the Ecuador side where they had electricity.


Some time later customs were done, still no electricity and then also immigration people could be moved to give me my stamp manually. This process took less than 30minutes which makes this border crossing one of the fastest - no most likely THE fastest - one I ever had. Only 40 minutes in total! Of course I was honest and said "yes" on the customs form about bringing animals into the country. Meaningless as this question was, nobody cared Peto. Good that I did not invest in any vet's certificate ;)

Peru here I come!


My track through Ecuador:

https://sauerkraut-and-tofuwurst.smu.../O/Ecuador.jpg
About 1000km



Ecuador track and waypoints as GPX and GDB files.


Ecuador accommodations

Ibarra - Camping at Finca Sommerwind

Type: camping

Costs: 5USD/person

Dogs: free

Bike parking: besides tent

Contact: Finca-Sommerwind - Ecuador

GPS: N0.38049° W78.08908°

Comment: Clean toilets and hot shower, kitchenette, restaurant, great Wifi, they seem to have also cabins.
Quito - Residence Latitude 0

Type: Room for 6+people (all for me)

Costs: 10USD/person

Dogs: free

Bike parking: free in the one and only garage

Contact: booking.com

GPS: S0.21142° W78.48541°

Comment: Clean, shared warm shower, shared toilet, TV, good Wifi, kitchen
Riobamba - Hotel Royalty

Type: Room with one queen size bed

Costs: 13.50USD/person

Dogs: free

Bike parking: secured in inner yard

Contact:

GPS: S1.65549° W78.66520°

Comment: Clean, warm shower, TV, good Wifi, free breakfast, opposite of shopping mall
Cuenca - Mallki Hostel

Type: Room with one queen size bed

Costs: 25USD

Dogs: free

Bike parking: secured in inner yard

Contact: Mallki Hostel and booking.com

GPS: S2.90413° W79.00713°

Comment: Shower head, common TV, Wifi (from congested and no throughput to superfast), free breakfast, kitchen, first two nights in dorm room (10USD/night).
Vilcabamba - Hosteria Paraiso

Type: Room with multiple beds

Costs: 20USD/room (special price, normally 25USD/room)

Dogs: free

Bike parking: in inner yard

Contact: +593 (0) 72640266, 072640029, 0988448057, www.hosteriaparaiso.com, hosteriaparaiso@hotmail.com

GPS: S4.25516° W79.22341°

Comment: Clean, hot shower, TV, good Wifi at reception, free breakfast, swimming pool, steam sauna, Finnish sauna at weekends

SauerkrautandTofuwurst 24 Feb 2016 00:08

My sidecar and me took a very long mud bath - riding from San Ignacio via Jaen to Cut
 
Sit back, watch the video and me struggling ;)


SauerkrautandTofuwurst 24 Feb 2016 00:09

Carnival, vegan food and coffee at Starbucks - Cutervo - Cajamarca (Peru)
 
More of Andes and the PE3N. This road is full of of surprises.


SauerkrautandTofuwurst 24 Feb 2016 00:10

War games in Santiago de Chuco (Peru)
 
Carnival everywhere. See how some people in Peru celebrate it and of course plenty of more nice nature between the villages.


SauerkrautandTofuwurst 24 Feb 2016 00:11

Steep, steeper, Peru - another adventure ride through the beautiful Andes in Peru
 
The title says it all. From Santiago de Chuco to Tauca via PE3N. Total ascent 4011m. Total descent 3811m.


SauerkrautandTofuwurst 24 Feb 2016 00:12

Curves Curves Curves and a 3km descent - riding PE3N in Peru
 
Life in a tiny mountain village and another stretch of great riding which ended with a surprise.


SauerkrautandTofuwurst 24 Feb 2016 00:14

Canon del Pato Chuquicara to Caraz (Peru)
 
Another day of adventure riding. PE3N - a road with some devilish features.


SauerkrautandTofuwurst 24 Feb 2016 00:15

Reaching for the sky - A breath taking ride in Huascaran National Park
 
One of the best rides in Latin America. Sit back, relax and enjoy the views together with me.


SauerkrautandTofuwurst 24 Feb 2016 00:16

First trillions of potholes and then somebody stole my helmet, Huallanca - Huanuco (P
 
Another challenging ride for me and the bike which ended with the fact that somebody stole my helmet. But life and the journey went on :)


SauerkrautandTofuwurst 24 Feb 2016 00:17

My lessons learned from drinking Inca Kola and via Ticlio Pass to Lima
 
I rode the busy Ticlio pass (4818m) to Lima and finally found a vet to get the required papers for entering the EU. Wow, did I get sick this time.


SauerkrautandTofuwurst 24 Feb 2016 00:19

And a few still impressions from the past days...

https://sauerkraut-and-tofuwurst.smu...919-001-X2.jpg
More of the beauty (somewhere south of Huaraz)

https://sauerkraut-and-tofuwurst.smu...956-002-X2.jpg
What a nice idea for a bus stop waiting area.

https://sauerkraut-and-tofuwurst.smu...056-004-X2.jpg
Ticlio Pass 4818m

https://sauerkraut-and-tofuwurst.smu...923-003-X2.jpg
Mining lorries

https://sauerkraut-and-tofuwurst.smu...601-001-X2.jpg
And a extra special one for my Finnish friends and readers :D

SauerkrautandTofuwurst 24 Feb 2016 00:27

New shoes and riding the PE1S
 
Fixing this and that at the bike and getting out of Lima as quickly as I could...


SauerkrautandTofuwurst 24 Feb 2016 23:15

Audit of my new "Peru-helmet"
 
Wolfi - the certified quality lead auditor - reviews his latest purchase. Will it pass the test?


SauerkrautandTofuwurst 25 Feb 2016 21:13

Nasca Lines, broken bearing and back into the mountains
 
Paranoid? I do not know but I did not want to play it the Latin American way. Amazing difference between coastal and mountain roads.


SauerkrautandTofuwurst 27 Feb 2016 11:33

Puquio to Ollantaytambo - preparing for Machu Picchu (Peru)
 
Up and down and up and down. Riding through the Andes on my way to Machu Picchu.


SauerkrautandTofuwurst 28 Feb 2016 18:05

Ollantaytambo & how to visit Machu Picchu with a dog and vegan food
 
Pets are not allowed on the trains to Machu Picchu neither in Machu Picchu itself. I found two ways to visit Machu Picchu while traveling with a dog. Ollantaytambo had several veg-friendly restaurants and I could have a nice hike with Peto.


SauerkrautandTofuwurst 1 Mar 2016 13:18

I am 116 years and walked Machu Picchu
 
Inspired by the magic of Machu Picchu I did manage to have a great time besides the fact that I am 116 years young ;)


SauerkrautandTofuwurst 2 Mar 2016 23:51

Fantastic vegan food in Cusco
 
The only reason I went to Cusco was the fact that there are three vegan restaurants and the food was fantastic.


SauerkrautandTofuwurst 4 Mar 2016 18:49

Wolfi reveals his mental state from Puno at Lake Titicaca
 
How am I doing? Being miserable? Party party party? Here come the secrets...


SauerkrautandTofuwurst 6 Mar 2016 22:37

Bordercrossing Peru Bolivia with a dog and a motorbike
 
There is no entry fee for EU-citizens into Bolivia, but what about the bike and the corrupt officers? And what about Peto?


SauerkrautandTofuwurst 8 Mar 2016 01:11

Peru - Accommodations, tracks and waypoints
 
The track
https://sauerkraut-and-tofuwurst.smu...ru%20track.jpg
About 3500km, Total Ascent 47161m, Total Descent 44155m

The tracks and waypoints can be found here in gdb and in gpx format.

Accommodations (for one person, 100sol≈27EUR):

San Ignacio - Hotel Zumbilla
Type: Room with single bed
Costs: 20sol
Dogs: free
Bike parking: secured in garage besides the hotel
Contact:
GPS: S5.14505° W79.00707°
Comment: hot shower, TV, no Wifi, no shower curtain, not sure about the name

Jaen - Hotel Imperial Palace
Type: Room with one bed
Costs: 40sol
Dogs: free
Bike parking: secured in garage
Contact: Av. Pakamuros 828, 076-431169, 947895195
GPS: S5.70820° W78.80307°
Comment: hot shower, TV, very slow Wifi, fan, other rooms with more space and/or A/C cost more.


Cutervo - Hotel Megadi
Type: Room with one bed
Costs: 30sol
Dogs: free
Bike parking: secured in garage
Contact:
GPS: S6.38299° W78.81633°
Comment: hot shower, TV, fast Wifi in hallway,

Cajamarca - Hotel Cuenca
Type: Room with one bed
Costs: 35sol (50sol for double)
Dogs: free
Bike parking: secured in garage
Contact: 076-313002, 976885856, 993482604, El Inca #511, hostalcuenca@hotmail.com
GPS: S7.15861° W78.50937°
Comment: dungeon, hot shower, TV, Wifi,

Huamachuco - Hotel Dubai
Type: Room with one bed
Costs: 35sol (50sol for double)
Dogs: free
Bike parking: secured in garage
Contact: Av. 10 de Julio #222, 991122268, RPM#959653697
GPS: S7.81766° W78.04337°
Comment: dungeon, electric shower head, TV, slow Wifi,

Santiago de Chuco - Hotel Restaurant Yordy
Type: Room with one big bed
Costs: 30sol
Dogs: free
Bike parking: secured but a few blocks away (5sol /night) (S8.14341° W78.17183°),
Contact: Miguel Grau No 1421 - Tomas Ganoza No 706
GPS: S8.14573° W78.17305°
Comment: window, hot shower, TV, no Wifi

Tauca - Hospedaja Santo Domingo
Type: Room with one big bed
Costs: 20sol
Dogs: free
Bike parking: Across the central plaza at the church. It was free and locked during the night.
Contact:
GPS: S8.46980° W78.03833°
Comment: dirty, raw walls, window, electric shower head, TV, no Wifi

Chuquicara - "Rooms"
Type: Room with one big bed
Costs: 20sol (first they wanted 30sol)
Dogs: free
Bike parking: in front of room
Contact:
GPS: S8.65494° W78.23670°
Comment: dirty, window, cold shower (well it was hot), sandflies, water extremely dirty (from river), no toilet paper and no towel (lady got bitchy and said it is not included in 20sol),

Caraz - Hotel Luchita
Type: Room with a single bed
Costs: 30sol
Dogs: free
Bike parking: half a block away in somebody's home
Contact: 043-391569, Jr. Pumacahua 2do. piso
GPS: S9.04520° W77.81049°
Comment: cleanish, decent, windows, hot shower, good Wifi, TV, (felt like luxury hotel compared to the last shithole

Huaraz - Hostal Quilla Star
Type: Room (martimonial bed, single occupancy)
Costs: 35sol
Dogs: free, but had some trouble to get Peto in.
Bike parking: 3 blocks away and it costs 5sol/night
Contact: Av. Centenario No 571 - Independencia, 043-422320
GPS: S9.51920° W77.52996°
Comment: cleanish, bathroom window, hot shower, slow Wifi, TV. Basically three hotels denied to host pets. This last one only allowed after some discussion. The other hotel which was quickly saying ok was the Real Hotel Huascaran but the prices were 90sol for a single and 120sol for a matrimonial.

Huallanco - Hotel Nancy
Type: Room (martimonial bed, single occupancy)
Costs: 25sol
Dogs: free
Bike parking: free in backyard
Contact:
GPS: S9.89923° W76.94227°
Comment: cleanish, window, hot shower, no Wifi, TV.

Huanuco - Hotel Tito's
Type: Room (martimonial bed, single occupancy), shared bathroom
Costs: 35sol
Dogs: free after some discussion and the fact that Peto is a small dog.
Bike parking: free in garage
Contact: Av. Universitaria No 1348, Cayhuayana Alta Huanuco, Huanuco, 515123
GPS: S9.95643° W76.24843°
Comment: window, electric shower head, no Wifi, TV, balcony, they seem to have another hotel in the centro. There are about 10 hostal nearby this one.

La Oroya - Hostal Nuevo Pablo
Type: Room (martimonial bed, single occupancy), private bathroom
Costs: 30sol
Dogs: free
Bike parking: secured garage nearby (5sol)
Contact:
GPS: S11.52048° W75.90153°
Comment: window, hot shower, good Wifi, TV,

Lima - Affirmate Camera
Type: Room (martimonial bed, single occupancy), private bathroom
Costs: 20USD
Dogs: free
Bike parking: garage in the house
Contact: booking.com
GPS: S11.94857° W77.08665°
Comment: window, hot shower, Wifi, no reception! (looks like a private house)

Review booking.com
+
I stayed there for three nights/days to get some stuff organized in Lima. Pets are for free and private parking where the garage was in the house. The owner was very friendly and helped me fixing a puncture in my tire. The internet was good speed especially in the hallway. I could use the fridge. The room was very hot and later during the first day the owner brought a fan. The room was big and the bed was huge - very comfortable. The place felt more like a private place than a hotel since there was no reception and I got the keys to get in and out by myself which was good. Besides the issue with the water (I noted it was fixed when I left), it was a nice stay. The neighborhood looks average to me, plenty of kids playing in the streets in the evening. There is a Tottu's supermercado a few blocks down the road.

-
The room (the one with the Jacuzzi) was pretty hot. Other rooms do not even have a window towards the outside. On the first day I wanted to test the Jacuzzi but there came no hot water as the hot water seems to come only around 6PM. The next day there came no water at all, after complaining there came only warm/hot water and no cold water. Anyway the flow was so little that the Jacuzzi would have taken hours to fill up (normal fill time is 60min). In the end I could not use the Jacuzzi.

Ica - Hotel Villa Carino
Type: Room (matrimonial bed, single occupancy), private bathroom
Costs: 40sol
Dogs: free
Bike parking: garage in the house
Contact: Av. Los Maestros urb. divino Maestro B-40, Ica, 227495, 956991334, hvillacarino@hotmail.com
GPS: S14.07830° W75.73761°
Comment: window, hot shower, good Wifi, TV,

Nasca - Hospedaje Huerto de mi Amada
Type: Room (single bed), private bathroom
Costs: 30sol
Dogs: free
Bike parking: garage in the backyard
Contact:
GPS: S14.82783° W74.94622°
Comment: electric shower head, Wifi, TV

Puquio - Hostal Los Andes
Type: Room (single bed), private bathroom
Costs: 40sol
Dogs: free
Bike parking: garage in the house
Contact: Jr. 9 de Diciembre 286, Puquio, Ayacucho, 066-452323
GPS: S14.69528° W74.12404°
Comment: window, hot shower, no Wifi, TV,

Abancay - Hotel El Peregrino Apart Hotel
Type: Room (matrimonial bed, single occupancy), private bathroom
Costs: 90sol
Dogs: free, Peto was ok after the receptionist called the manager
Bike parking: secured in backyard
Contact: Andres Avelino Caceres 390, 083-502610
GPS: S13.63418° W72.87558°
Comment: Luxury hotel!, bedroom with separated kitchen/living room, window, hot shower, good Wifi, TV, kitchenette with micro, fridge, breakfast, helpful staff

Ollantaytambo - Hostal Las Portadas
Type: Room (matrimonial bed, single occupancy), private bathroom
Costs: 25sol
Dogs: free
Bike parking: secured in backyard
Contact: Calle Principal S/N, Cel 984620989, 064-204008
GPS: S13.25906° W72.26200°
Comment: window, hot shower, Wifi (was switched off during night), TV, helpful staff

Cusco - Inkita Boutique Guesthouse
Type: Room (matrimonial bed, single occupancy), shared bathroom
Costs: 13USD
Dogs: free
Bike parking: secured in backyard
Contact: booking.com (no reception, private house)
GPS: S13.52500° W71.90044°
Comment: beautiful view, outside Cusco, peaceful, secure, hot shower, Wifi, TV, helpful staff

Booking review
+
The place is almost idyllic and 8km away from Cusco center (taxi takes 15min and costs about 12sol) thus ideal for folks like me who loves to walk with the dog. Plenty of green around and its a delight to have a walk in the neighborhood. Dogs are for free even though the owner might not allow your dog inside the room (at least she hesitated to allow my dog into the room or it was a language misunderstanding). Parking on the lawn inside the yard. very nice garden to sit, relax and enjoy the great view over Cusco. The big rooms are absolute fantastic and are really worth the money. The tiny one (which I had in the 2nd night) is about average. Wifi was fast. There was drinking water available in the kitchen. I had a small medical issue and the owner was so kind to find out an English speaking doctor who was on duty on Saturday.

-
The upper security gate was closed in the evening and the taxi had to take the lower one (if you come with your own vehicle or the taxi does not know it you have to walk). I did not get a key to the property door so I had to knock on the main door and wait for the mercy of the owner to open. I had booked a twin room (25m2) but it was still occupied. So I got in the first night a big room (25m2) with private bathroom (which was nice) but in the 2nd night a very small, hot room (12m2) without proper air circulation. I have slept in smaller rooms but this room was far below my expectations compared to what I had booked! Shared toilet was not cleaned, had no toilet paper and there came no water in the shower. On the second evening I tried to get out to have an evening walk but the door was locked and bolted thus I could not get out by myself.

Puno - Hostal Inka Tours
Type: Room (matrimonial bed, single occupancy), private bathroom
Costs: 45sol
Dogs: free (after some discussion and I told them that I will stay two nights)
Bike parking: in garage
Contact:
GPS: S15.84469° W70.01783°
Comment: near Lake Titicaca, hot shower, Wifi, TV, no drinking water

SauerkrautandTofuwurst 8 Mar 2016 12:28

From Copacabana to La Paz (Bolivia)
 
A smooth ride from Copacabana to another traffic nightmare big city - La Paz.


More info on the bike insurance:
I got the contact data from http://www.smboilerworks.com/
Name: Seguros Illimani
GPS: S16.49903, W068.13338
Address: Loayza No 233 Edif Mcal de Ayacucho (this is the name of the building) Floor 10
You need copy of: passport, vehicle title, Bolivia import paper.
I paid 100USD for 3 months and it covers: Bolivia, Chile, Argentine, Brazi and Paraguay (the others paid 160USD for 5 months). It could also cover Peru if wanted.

SauerkrautandTofuwurst 9 Mar 2016 10:27

Riding a sidecar on THE Road of Death (Yungas Road), Bolivia
 
Here I was - in La Paz - getting ready to ride the world's most dangerous road. How did I manage with my sidecar?


SauerkrautandTofuwurst 12 Mar 2016 21:54

Riding from La Paz to Potosi and enjoying vegan food in the "magic apple"(Bolivia)
 
The difference between cities is amazing but watch for yourself. I also found a vegetarian restaurant in Potosi in walking distance from my hostel. Watch for yourself...


SauerkrautandTofuwurst 15 Mar 2016 12:19

My sidecar is falling apart and I am stranded in Uyuni, Bolivia
 
Enjoy the ride from Potosi to the Salt lakes of Uyuni. These roads are hard on my old bike and I am beginning to wonder if I will make my journey to the end?


SauerkrautandTofuwurst 22 Mar 2016 17:30

Phuck you SAG, Senasag - drama at the border Bolivia to Chile
 
The beautiful landscape and plenty of shit I had to take while trying to get from Bolivia into Chile with my dog...


SauerkrautandTofuwurst 23 Mar 2016 20:34

Which way to go from Bolivia to Chile and then this happened again...
 
If you thought my misery was over, watch this episode...


SauerkrautandTofuwurst 30 Mar 2016 16:54

Lagunas, Flamingos and another way to enter from Bolivia into Chile with a dog and a
 
Lagunas, Flamingos and another way to enter from Bolivia into Chile with a dog and a sidecar

Beautiful scenery, catastrophic track especially with a broken front fork but nonetheless I found an innovative way to enter Chile ;)



Some more info on crossing the border from Bolivia to Chile with a dog.

Your pet needs to be vaccinated against internal and external parasites (my dog got medicine designed for swines but I only figured that out later)!

Based on my (horrible) experiences here is what I recommend:
1. Your pet needs a health certificate from a vet stating the rabies information (date, vet who gave the shot) and the vaccination for the parasites (date and vet who gave it). Most likely your vet is incompetent so you need to make sure everything is ok, even the tiniest details! This paper is supposed to be valid for 30 days but I would not go beyond 10 days!

2. Besides that you need an export permit for your pet from the Bolivian Senasag. This paper must state the rabies info (date and vet), the parasite info (date and vet) and better put ALL info you have about your dog into THIS paper (like all vaccines with date and name of vet, and whatever else you can imagine). This paper is supposed to be valid for 30 days but I would not go beyond 10 days!

Note that there is only one vet in Potosi who can make this export permit and this vet might be out on an inspection (or coffee). Better reserve time for this! Most likely this vet is incompetent (or lazy) so you need to make sure everything is ok, even the tiniest details!

Senasag Potosi: S19.55927° W65.76094°
(check their webpage SENASAG - Inicio for other locations, there is no Senasag in Uyuni!)

The actual border crossing:
Bolivian side does not care at all about pets going in or out.

The Chile SAG has all the power to let you in or not. They can be very very naughty - a level of naughtiness which I would call arbitrariness as well as abuse of the SAG position (Other traveler's stories confirm that in regards to bringing animal products/souvenirs into Chile). Based on my experience there is no proven recipe for dealing with this. If they do not like you, they do not let you in, so be prepare to get access denied with your pet even though you believe you have all papers correct.

Potentially if you have a SAG paper from Argentina you might be able to compare and get a similar paper from Bolivia (just to be sure).

SauerkrautandTofuwurst 2 Apr 2016 13:19

Waiting for spare parts - great opportunity for gearbox repair on a BMW R1150GSA - I
 
It became obvious that I would be here for some time to get my spare part for the front fork. What a great opportunity to figure out whether my gearbox had some issues as well.


SauerkrautandTofuwurst 4 Apr 2016 18:59

One tiny mistake and 2 days more work - gearbox repair on a BMW R1150GSA - part II
 
Puppy love and sorrow. Murphy's law hit me hard this time but see for yourself...



SauerkrautandTofuwurst 6 Apr 2016 11:40

Bolivia - pet and bike friendly accommodations, tracks and waypoints
 
https://sauerkraut-and-tofuwurst.smu.../O/Bolivia.jpg
Track 2600km


Track and waypoints in GDB and GPX format.

List of bike & pet friendly accommodation (100BOB ≈ 13.5 EUR ≈ 15USD)


Copacabana - Luz Yhobimar

Type: Room (twin, single occupancy), private bathroom

Costs: 70BOB

Dogs: free

Bike parking: secured parking lot one block away (included)

Contact:

GPS: S16.16630° W69.08779°

Comment: hot shower, Wifi, TV, no drinking water




La Paz - Apartamento en La Paz

Type: Room (twin, single occupancy), shared bathroom

Costs: 12USD

Dogs: 6USD

Bike parking: Garage in house (4USD)

Contact: booking.com,

GPS: S16.50648° W68.14240°

Comment: electric shower head, Wifi, TV, drinking water, common kitchen, fridge, terrace with a view, easy to find. silent and big room. kitchen. Garage in-house. cheap. Hosts speaks English. Clean shower/toilet. had to wait for a while before I got hold of the owner but some other house guests helped. Parking costed 4USD, my dog 6USD per night which made the room a bit expensive for Bolivia but maybe not for La Paz. My room door had glass tiles and I could see when the light went on in the corridor.

Slow to unusable internet. On the last night there was no toilet paper (even though toilets were cleaned) and I could not find the owner.


Oruro - Hotel City Virginia

Type: Room (single occupancy), private bathroom

Costs: 130BOB

Dogs: free

Bike parking: Garage in house besides hotel (mostly for the night not during day)

Contact: 72313391, Av. 6 de Agosto entre Aroma y Villarroel

GPS: S17.96093° W67.10574°

Comment: hot shower, slow Wifi, TV, drinking water,
Potosi - Casa de huespedes La Vicuna

Type: Room (king size bed, single occupancy), shared bathroom

Costs: 120BOB

Dogs: free

Bike parking: in inner yard

Contact: Calle Ingavi No. 184, esq Quijarro

GPS: S19.58640° W65.75365°

Comment: hot shower (after I complained that there was no hot shower), Wifi, TV, room was a closet without window, breakfast included
Uyuni - Hotel Inti

Type: Room (queen size bed, single occupancy), shared bathroom

Costs: 85BOB

Dogs: free

Bike parking: garage 15Bob

Contact:

GPS: S20.46126° W66.82089°

Comment: hot shower, Wifi, no towel, no toilet paper
Alto - Hospedaje Fatima

Type: Room (single bed in three bed room, single occupancy), shared bathroom

Costs: 30BOB

Dogs: free

Bike parking: in inner yard

Contact:

GPS: S21.40105° W67.59720°

Comment: very basic, hot shower (10BOB), no Wifi, no towel, no toilet paper
San Christobal - Hotel

Type: Room (twin room, single occupancy), private bathroom

Costs: 140BOB

Dogs: free

Bike parking: in inner yard

Contact:

GPS: S21.15403° W67.16700°

Comment: hot shower, no Wifi, comfortable, carpet, heating, breakfast included
Kulpina K - Hostal Maluqui

Type: Room (twin room, single occupancy), private bathroom

Costs: 50BOB

Dogs: free (after some clarification)

Bike parking: backyard

Contact:

GPS: S21.25848° W67.22283°

Comment: hot shower, no Wifi, carpet
Pena Barroza - Hostal

Type: Room (twin room, single occupancy), private bathroom

Costs: 100BOB

Dogs: free

Bike parking: in inner yard

Contact:

GPS: S22.19119° W67.33943°

Comment: hot shower, no Wifi

SauerkrautandTofuwurst 11 Apr 2016 00:57

Wildlife at the campground and the bike repair continues...
 
Dogs, cats, birds, lizards and mice and news on the ball joint bearing, oil filter and more...


SauerkrautandTofuwurst 12 Apr 2016 14:18

Happy Birthday to me and I got a present guess from whom...
 
Now there is a bit of Chile in FFWD mode and I got one year older but did I get any wiser?


SauerkrautandTofuwurst 17 Apr 2016 21:07

Limache to Osorno (Chile) and then came the starter motor problem
 
Yep - another problem and this time with the starter motor. It had made trouble for a while and I thought it would be a good idea to open, check and fix it now (quickly!) so I won't have any more trouble down the road (hopefully)...


SauerkrautandTofuwurst 22 Apr 2016 13:14

Osorno- Peto got new toys - Wolfi got new toys - Shattered dreams
 
The fixing the starter motor on the R1150GSA continued. Peto got new toys and likes them very much. Shattered dreams and life continues. Look what the campground caretaker did to us...


SauerkrautandTofuwurst 24 Apr 2016 14:08

border crossing from Chile to Argentina with a motorcycle/sidecar and a dog (C. Samor
 


We crossed the border on Wednesday 20April2016 at Cardenal Samore). The crossing was really easy. At the entry check point I got a piece of paper stating my license plate and how many persons. Then to immigration and customs which both stamped this paper. At the exit check point I gave the stamped paper. Since there were no cues it took about 10minutes including all the photo shootings of the officials and by standers. Nobody cared about Peto.

After some 22km there is the international border and after some additional 18km there was the Argentina checkpoint.

The same procedure. At the entry check point I got a piece of paper stating my license plate and how many persons. Then to immigration and customs which both stamped this paper. The border official (who took some pics of Peto and the sidecar) then told me to go to Senasa office. I gave the SAG papers from Chile, had to pay 65ARS (she accepted also payment in CLP - 3000CLP) as a one-time entrance fee for Peto into Argentina and I was done. They kept the white copy of the SAG paper (BTW: The official SAG paper only stated the rabies vaccination details not the parasites. A clear indication that at the Bolivia/Chile border it was pure harassment because with the same paper I can return to Chile). At the exit check point I gave the paper with all three stamps. Since there were no cues it took about 20minutes including all the photo shootings of the officials and by standers.

No copies needed, no other payments required. Nobody asked for vehicle insurance.

The SAG paper from Chile is valid for 10days to leave Chile and enter Argentina. The re-entry from Argentina to Chile is possible with the same paper within 21days (so no need to go to Senasa in Argentina if you move within this time window).

A multiple entry/re-entry is also possible according to the SAG officer. However it might be that you need more official copies. If you plan to do this then ask for more copies or clarify this upfront with the official (The SAG officer in Osorno did not say anything about more copies even though I told her about my intentions).

Based on other travelers info, the time window is more relaxed in the south and is 30days for in both directions also with the note that you might need an official for each entry to the other country (so get several). However, I could not verify this in person.

SAG office in Osorno: S40.57420° W73.13925, Mackenna 674, Osorno, (64) 2232415, Oficina Osorno | SAG

There was at least one person who spoke fluent German.

ALWAYS triple check ALL data on the paper (they screwed up my passport number and then Peto's vaccination date!)

SauerkrautandTofuwurst 30 Apr 2016 00:04

The stunning part of Ruta 40 - a dream shattered and reborn
 
Enjoy these beautiful landscapes with me. A good time of the year to ride across and the coldness is almost forgotten. I tell also what happened to my starter motor.


SauerkrautandTofuwurst 1 May 2016 23:56

Ushuaia yes or no...
 
After consulting a few details with Pedro, I made my decision whether we go to Ushuaia or not! Winter was coming and cold, it would be!


SauerkrautandTofuwurst 3 May 2016 22:25

3 Years on the road - with a sidecar and a dog around the world
 
What a fantastic adventure this was so far and it is not yet over...



SauerkrautandTofuwurst 5 May 2016 14:20

My last 1400km to Ushuaia, Tierra del Fuego
 
Riding in freezing weather, long days across numbing landscape - my last 1400km to Ushuaia, Tierra del Fuego.


SauerkrautandTofuwurst 12 May 2016 22:34

Heading north - from Ushuaia to Rada Tilly
 
After a short stay in Ushuaia it was time to go back north. It went almost without trouble...


SauerkrautandTofuwurst 16 May 2016 14:31

Border crossing Chile/Argentina with a dog via Paso Integracion Austral and San Sebas
 
A short report about how Peto - my dog - and me crossed the Chile/Argentina borders to and from Ushuaia (Paso Integracion Austral and San Sebastian)



Vet and Senasa in Comodoro Rivadavia
Veterania Huesos
M-F 1000-1230 and 1600-2030, S 10-1230
Tehuelches 172
S45.83435° W67.47831°

Senasa
M-F 0830 - 1330 (or so)
S45.86322° W67.47430°

SauerkrautandTofuwurst 23 May 2016 23:51

Ruta 3 - the most boring road I ever rode (from Rada Tilly to Buenos Aires)
 
It was driving, sleeping, driving, sleeping and almost sleeping while driving - watch what all happened on my way up north towards Buenos Aires (12.-22.5.2016).


SauerkrautandTofuwurst 31 May 2016 22:23

Going back "home" (from Argentina to Germany)
 
It was a busy time organizing all things around the bike shipment as well as Peto's export papers. Besides that I had a bit of a time to explore Buenos Aires. Did I make it to Frankfurt as planned or did I have similar issues as Skippy had...


SauerkrautandTofuwurst 5 Jun 2016 17:07

Back to Skippy and my plans for this summer and beyond
 
After being 5 months separated from Skippy we finally are together again. The big question what will I do next...



SauerkrautandTofuwurst 8 Jun 2016 21:50

Peto immigrates to Germany and plenty of other stuff
 
Plenty of stuff to be organized in Frankfurt (30May - 6June), enjoying delicious vegan food and Bryan Adams live. It was my first concert since ??2013??


SauerkrautandTofuwurst 11 Jun 2016 11:02

My experience of importing a dog from Latin America to Europe
 
My experience of importing a dog from Latin America to Europe
A short description of the 6 months long process to bring a pet into Europe.



Official webpage to find details on importing a pet into Europe.
Movement of pets - European Commission
BMEL - Internetauftritt des Bundesministeriums für Ernährung und Landwirtschaft

SauerkrautandTofuwurst 16 Jun 2016 12:27

I got some culture shocks in Germany and did Skippy dump me via youtube?
 
I got a few culture shocks in Germany now that I was back in Saarland but they were also positive ones. Isn't it nice to hear from Skippy via youtube that she might consider dumping me? At least Peto made me happy as he goes all ball-crazy :D


SauerkrautandTofuwurst 17 Jun 2016 17:00

Heading north through BENELUX countries and back to Germany
 
Getting first parts of the bike fixed while other stuff got broken as well as me. Besides that plenty of riding and another disappointment at Subways ...
(12-15June2016)



SauerkrautandTofuwurst 26 Jun 2016 08:13

I got me a bicycle and check out my crazy plans
 
Some more of our on/off relationship. I got me a bicycle and enjoying some goodies in Lübeck. I also give you some idea of my crazy plans for the future.


SauerkrautandTofuwurst 30 Jun 2016 08:05

Leaving my wife for the third time and going back home to Finland
 
Our ON/OFF relationship continued and I was on my way to Finland...


SauerkrautandTofuwurst 1 Jul 2016 19:33

The aftermath of riding across South America with a dog on a side car
 
A short summary of what I experienced in South America (1H2016).




Some additional notes:
- As an European I did not need any Visa in any of the countries I have been.
- I did not need at any point a Carnet de Passage.
- It is possible to get a vehicle insurance which covers: Brazil, Uruguay, Argentina, Chile, Bolivia and Peru. Insurance for Colombia is mandatory and was obtained at Suramericana www.sura.com. Ecuador, no insurance required.

SauerkrautandTofuwurst 1 Jul 2016 21:40

Who converted my nice home into a shithole and the yard into a jungle
 
I was in total shock when I came to my old home, saw this jungle and shitty house. I was almost crying...


SauerkrautandTofuwurst 2 Jul 2016 02:28

Finally, my wife comes to her senses and returns back home
 
:welcome:


SauerkrautandTofuwurst 20 Jul 2016 08:43

My 3 weeks labor camp and I never had my beemer dismantled that much - my crazy bike
 
Getting some stuff and back to the labor camp. Finally I started my bike repair and found more surprises... (3.-18.7.2016)


SauerkrautandTofuwurst 25 Jul 2016 13:43

Our sex life sucks and my crazy bike repair continues
 
The bike repair continued with a few hick-ups and innovative solutions ;)


SauerkrautandTofuwurst 4 Aug 2016 07:42

The most difficult thing back in Europe after being in Latin America for 18 months
 
A little bit of this and that: 2 girls and 5 dogs, some info about bike repair, labor camp and Finnish countryside.


SauerkrautandTofuwurst 23 Aug 2016 08:54

Finland Roadtrip Aug2016 - Episode one: sidecar meeting, Punkaharju, Kerimäki and Kol
 
It was time for a road trip in Finland - my first proper journey with this sidecar in Finland! At first I visited the stunning sidecar meeting, rode around the beautiful Punkaharju followed by visiting the worlds biggest wooden church in Kerimäki. Ukko-Koli was all in clouds this time.


SauerkrautandTofuwurst 25 Aug 2016 09:58

Finland Roadtrip 2016 Episode two: WWII memories, couch surfing, Lapland and polarcir
 
A short visit to some old WWII fighting areas, my first couch surfing experience in Kuusamo and a quick stop-over at the polar-circle and Lapland.


SauerkrautandTofuwurst 26 Aug 2016 23:20

Finland Roadtrip 2016 Episode three: Biker meeting in Yyteri and visit to Tuulispää
 
The end of my Finland roadtrip included a biker weekend at Yyteri, Pori and a visit to the animal rescue farm Tuulispää in Somero.


SauerkrautandTofuwurst 28 Aug 2016 20:41

Sidecar and trike day in Lahti and why a beer is better than a woman
 
Perfect riding weather to visit the sidecar and trike day in Lahti, learned a few new things about beer and search for the famous vegan shelf in a Lahti citymarket.



SauerkrautandTofuwurst 14 Sep 2016 07:25

Motosügis2016
 
I saw a few Hell Angels on the ferry. Are they coming to Motosügis? Will there be "everything"?



SauerkrautandTofuwurst 5 Oct 2016 11:18

Coming back to Finland appears difficult :-o
 
What else have I been doing during September 2016.


Skippy's youtube channel: RAWFINN

Follow me on
Instagram: https://www.instagram.com/veganervagabund/

SauerkrautandTofuwurst 1 Nov 2016 15:23

Etelän pystymettä 2016, Iisalmi, Finland
 
A visit to the southern Pystymettä (translate into "Southern standing-up forest") - a weekend in the middle of the woods (28.-30.Oct.). It was great as always!



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