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Steppe to the left, steppe to the right; a trip through Mongolia
Two years after our Iceland trip, Daniel (aka Modman) and I have just returned from three weeks riding from Irkutsk to Bishkek.
https://wildmania.smugmug.com/Motorc...05.05.01-L.png For those of you who don't know me, I'm Paul (aka Wildman). The Wildman moniker comes from my mothers side of the family and is just a name that I use. In fact, if any of you Canucks knew Cariboo Motorcycles in Port Moody, BC a few years back, you may know my uncle Dave Wildman or my cousins, John and Ashley. https://wildmania.smugmug.com/Motorc...P1020992-L.jpg This is Daniel sorting out his bike when we dropped them in Warsaw at the end of May to be shipped to Irkutsk. https://wildmania.smugmug.com/Motorc...IMG_0939-L.jpg https://wildmania.smugmug.com/Motorc...518470_n-L.jpg https://wildmania.smugmug.com/Motorc...163945_n-L.jpg Here's our story. |
Irkutsk
We arrived in Irkutsk early on Saturday morning. Not the best planning ever done since Russian Customs don't work at the weekend but it meant the chance to acclimatise and prepare.
Dancing in Irkutsk: https://wildmania.smugmug.com/Motorc.../L/image-L.jpg |
Russian Customs (Day One)
Check in 11:40 with our "fixer", Pavel. Go to another office to have passports and V5s photocopied. Return to first office. Sent to third office where we must make a written request to have our bikes inspected. Wait for inspector.
Inspector comes and we walk to the wharehouse. Unpack everything from Daniel's bike. Everything is photographed twice. Oddometer, VIN and regustration plate photographed. Repack Daniel's bike and start on mine. Return to first office. It's now 14:45. First guy then proceeds to marry up every photograph to each item on our inventory. Finally gets it done by 16:25. Told to come back tomorrow at 09:00. |
My bike:
http://wildmania.smugmug.com/Motorcy.../L/image-L.jpg Daniel's: http://wildmania.smugmug.com/Motorcy.../L/image-L.jpg The inspection: http://wildmania.smugmug.com/Motorcy.../L/image-L.jpg The warehouse: http://wildmania.smugmug.com/Motorcy.../L/image-L.jpg The office: http://wildmania.smugmug.com/Motorcy.../L/image-L.jpg |
Russian Customs (Day Two)
Day two started at 09:10 with the news that the boss man wasn't happy with the inventories and we'd have to return and rephotograph everything! Not only that, they now had a list of what they thought we should have rather than what we actually had: tent, sleeping bag, mat, pillow, camp stove, 12 items of clothing, boots, one can of oil, stool, puncture repair kit and tools.
Problem was that my clothes weren't on the bike so we ended up with taking photographs of the fixer's shirt and pullover. I'd worn my boots so those came off and were photographed too. Return to office; 11:35. Lunch! Some positivity as we started on the "Carnet TIR"; the customs document, after lunch. Problem was that it required everything to be listed by hand showing material and a nominal weight. My bike and kit ended up weighing 904.5Kgs! Yeah, right. Next problem? Two hand written copies! Then the issue that everything about us was listed as being from the "UK" and everything on e bike from "GB". Finally, at 16:50, we got the customs form stamped and headed out to set up the bikes. We left at 18:00. Two full days; our fixer, Pavel, has the patience of a Saint. |
283 miles from Irkutsk to Ulan Ude
Lake Baikal is impressive but there are not many views from the road.
https://wildmania.smugmug.com/Motorc...P1020997-L.jpg After negotiating a few sporty sections of roadworks, we arrived in Ulan Ude to an impromptu Horizons Unlimited gathering. https://wildmania.smugmug.com/Motorc...P1030009-L.jpg https://wildmania.smugmug.com/Motorc...IMG_1030-L.jpg Ken and Carol from Australia, Sam I Am and a couple from New Zealand. Brigid (Mrs Roynie), who we'd dined with in Irkutsk, also arrived. Great to meet up with everyone. |
328 miles from Ulan Ude to Erdenet
Long day. The border crossing was relatively painless but we found nowhere obvious to pitch camp after Darkhan so decided to press on to Erdenet and checked in to a hotel. We arrived too late for dinner as we hadn't realised that the clocks changed at the border.
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I can't remember what we had for dinner that night, it wasn't Kimchi was it?
:rofl: |
250 miles from Erdenet to Morun
The next morning was wet.
https://wildmania.smugmug.com/Motorc...P1000023-L.jpg It had rained for five of the previous six days so perhaps not a surprise. We filled up with supplies. https://wildmania.smugmug.com/Motorc...P1030032-L.jpg And fuelled up alongside these guys. https://wildmania.smugmug.com/Motorc...P1030033-L.jpg The road from Erdenet to Morun is freshly paved but we had agreed to deliver some photographs to a Mongolian family 109kms south of the road and soon turned off. https://wildmania.smugmug.com/Motorc...P1030044-L.jpg Twenty seconds on to our route and I dropped the bike. The rain had left a thin layer of slimy mud sitting on top of hard-packed dirt leaving it treacherous. After 2kms, both Daniel and decided that another 107kms would be too challenging and, after a photo opportunity, we returned to the Morun road. https://wildmania.smugmug.com/Motorc...P1000034-L.jpg https://wildmania.smugmug.com/Motorc...P1030042-L.jpg https://wildmania.smugmug.com/Motorc...P1000031-L.jpg Eventually arrived at the 50'100' Hotel in Morun and a dinner of fried beef. |
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95 miles from Morun towards Tsetserleg
The paved road finishes at Morun.
https://wildmania.smugmug.com/Motorc...P1030059-L.jpg I led out a little too confidently and only twenty minutes into the day found myself taking a left hand bend in fifth gear, drifted to the outside and tried to use the sand berm to ease round the turn. Nope. https://wildmania.smugmug.com/Motorc...P1030064-L.jpg My second fall in two days! I was fortunate that I was standing and despite the speed, managed to avoid serious injury. A passing Mongolian helped Daniel and I to get the bike upright. https://wildmania.smugmug.com/Motorc...P1030065-L.jpg |
These guys wanted to race me. A 150cc bike, two-up versus a 798cc, one-up. They won!
https://wildmania.smugmug.com/Motorc...P1000047-L.jpg We made an offering. https://wildmania.smugmug.com/Motorc...P1030166-L.jpg https://wildmania.smugmug.com/Motorc...P1030168-L.jpg https://wildmania.smugmug.com/Motorc...P1030169-L.jpg And met some yak. https://wildmania.smugmug.com/Motorc...P1000054-L.jpg https://wildmania.smugmug.com/Motorc...P1030180-L.jpg |
We eventually decided to set up camp and, taking the advice of others, got well off the road and concealed ourselves, high up in the hills.
https://wildmania.smugmug.com/Motorc...P1000061-L.jpg https://wildmania.smugmug.com/Motorc...P1000057-L.jpg |
91 miles from Tsetserleg towards Bayantes
Some good riding the next morning.
https://wildmania.smugmug.com/Motorc...P1030203-L.jpg https://wildmania.smugmug.com/Motorc...P1030206-L.jpg https://wildmania.smugmug.com/Motorc...P1030212-L.jpg https://wildmania.smugmug.com/Motorc...P1030216-L.jpg Then, inexplicably, drop #3! Just a slow-speed turn to line up for a water crossing. https://wildmania.smugmug.com/Motorc...P1030223-L.jpg https://wildmania.smugmug.com/Motorc...P1030222-L.jpg https://wildmania.smugmug.com/Motorc...P1030228-L.jpg Came across these guys just before another water crossing. https://wildmania.smugmug.com/Motorc...P1030233-L.jpg |
https://wildmania.smugmug.com/Motorc...P1000062-L.jpg
https://wildmania.smugmug.com/Motorc...P1000063-L.jpg https://wildmania.smugmug.com/Motorc...P1000064-L.jpg https://wildmania.smugmug.com/Motorc...P1000065-L.jpg https://wildmania.smugmug.com/Motorc...P1000066-L.jpg https://wildmania.smugmug.com/Motorc...P1000067-L.jpg |
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The good riding continues.
https://wildmania.smugmug.com/Motorc...P1030280-L.jpg https://wildmania.smugmug.com/Motorc...P1030284-L.jpg https://wildmania.smugmug.com/Motorc...P1030287-L.jpg https://wildmania.smugmug.com/Motorc...P1030294-L.jpg https://wildmania.smugmug.com/Motorc...P1030288-L.jpg https://wildmania.smugmug.com/Motorc...P1030306-L.jpg https://wildmania.smugmug.com/Motorc...P1030308-L.jpg https://wildmania.smugmug.com/Motorc...P1030319-L.jpg |
Suddenly, sand!
https://wildmania.smugmug.com/Motorc...P1030338-L.jpg I hate sand. I crashed in Morocco a number of years back and this time, I lost the front wheel, trapping my left foot as I went down. Daniel insisted on a reconstruction. :cool4: https://wildmania.smugmug.com/Motorc...P1030340-L.jpg https://wildmania.smugmug.com/Motorc...P1030341-L.jpg |
We stop for a chat.
https://wildmania.smugmug.com/Motorc...P1030344-L.jpg https://wildmania.smugmug.com/Motorc...P1030345-L.jpg https://wildmania.smugmug.com/Motorc...P1030350-L.jpg https://wildmania.smugmug.com/Motorc...P1030353-L.jpg https://wildmania.smugmug.com/Motorc...P1030356-L.jpg https://wildmania.smugmug.com/Motorc...P1030358-L.jpg As we're stopped, three riders come along heading in the opposite direction, allowing us to swap notes. https://wildmania.smugmug.com/Motorc...P1030364-L.jpg https://wildmania.smugmug.com/Motorc...P1030360-L.jpg Pretty soon, it's a party! https://wildmania.smugmug.com/Motorc...P1030352-L.jpg |
Before long, it's time to set up camp although I find the time to drop the bike for a fifth time!
https://wildmania.smugmug.com/Motorc...P1030367-L.jpg Time to eat some camp food too. https://wildmania.smugmug.com/Motorc...P1030372-L.jpg Fix my GPS which has broken it's mount. https://wildmania.smugmug.com/Motorc...P1030384-L.jpg Plan for the next day. https://wildmania.smugmug.com/Motorc...P1030394-L.jpg Watch the sunset. https://wildmania.smugmug.com/Motorc...P1030398-L.jpg https://wildmania.smugmug.com/Motorc...P1030399-L.jpg And play around with the camera. https://wildmania.smugmug.com/Motorc...P1030407-L.jpg |
67 miles from Bayantes beyond Tes
Found some shade to take a refreshing drink in Bayantes.
https://wildmania.smugmug.com/Motorc...P1030426-L.jpg Dropped the bike for the sixth time, leaving the town. https://wildmania.smugmug.com/Motorc...P1030431-L.jpg https://wildmania.smugmug.com/Motorc...P1030432-L.jpg https://wildmania.smugmug.com/Motorc...P1030433-L.jpg https://wildmania.smugmug.com/Motorc...P1030434-L.jpg |
Some spectacular riding.
https://wildmania.smugmug.com/Motorc...P1030438-L.jpg https://wildmania.smugmug.com/Motorc...P1030435-L.jpg https://wildmania.smugmug.com/Motorc...P1030441-L.jpg https://wildmania.smugmug.com/Motorc...P1030445-L.jpg https://wildmania.smugmug.com/Motorc...P1030447-L.jpg https://wildmania.smugmug.com/Motorc...P1030470-L.jpg |
Great photos Paul, and yes I remember Dave well, we road raced at Westwood at the same time!
I trust you're coming to the CanWest Travellers Meeting? We'd love to have you do a presentation on your trip! see link on right... |
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80% of the photos are Daniel's, used here with his kind permission. As for Dave, I came across this the other day: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tTJO8mEaV9Q I'm in the UK so won't make CanWest but I do need to get out to BC sometime. Maybe next year. |
But for me, too much of this:
https://wildmania.smugmug.com/Motorc...P1030473-L.jpg and this: https://wildmania.smugmug.com/Motorc...P1030477-L.jpg means my confidence is shot. Low miles today as a consequence. I'm picking my way |
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Lunch in Tes.
https://wildmania.smugmug.com/Motorc...P1030491-L.jpg https://wildmania.smugmug.com/Motorc...P1030493-L.jpg https://wildmania.smugmug.com/Motorc...P1030494-L.jpg https://wildmania.smugmug.com/Motorc...P1030497-L.jpg The local shop has an interesting stock item! https://wildmania.smugmug.com/Motorc...P1030502-L.jpg |
The washboard claims it's first victim; Daniel's clutch.
https://wildmania.smugmug.com/Motorc...P1030510-L.jpg https://wildmania.smugmug.com/Motorc...P1030511-L.jpg |
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Another, late afternoon rendezvous with riders coming in the opposite direction informs us of problems on the Ulaangom to Tsaanaguur section; fifteen river crossings, all high due to the recent rain. They advise heading south to Khovd an Ulgii.
Then it's tuck ourselves away up in the hills for the night. https://wildmania.smugmug.com/Motorc...P1000097-L.jpg https://wildmania.smugmug.com/Motorc...P1000096-L.jpg |
Rivets, washboard, whatever they're called, are awful and probably the nastiest surface I have ever encountered. Sure, for a few miles they're bearable but for tens of miles they're extremely frustrating and hard on the bike.
At 1mph it's like riding a horse as you go over each individual one. At 10mph your bike is rattling to pieces (Poor Paul with his metal panniers felt it more than me, but still) At 20mph it gets a bit better depending on the distance between the washboard but still not nice At 40 or 50mph it's not too bad, you get a floating sensation as the wheels are hardly ever in contact with the ground, but it's only for those braver than me, 40mph feels like 100mph! Standing up helps sometimes, sitting down is better at other times but overall it's nasty stuff. I won't miss it, that's for sure. |
Is your partner dropping his bike too, or do you just take up all the slack? :mchappy:
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Thankfully though, as you can see, it was just the adjuster that had fallen out and popping a bolt through the lever fixed it. I didn't have a nut though and so tie wraps held it on until the end of the journey :scooter: |
118 miles from beyond Tes towards Ulaangom
The going became very sandy the closer we got to Uvs Nuur.
https://wildmania.smugmug.com/Motorc...P1030538-L.jpg First stop was in Baruuntaruun. https://wildmania.smugmug.com/Motorc...P1030544-L.jpg Unfortunately, despite being before 11:00 in the morning, the local town drunk decided that I should provide him with the means for his next fix. Mongolians, in our experience, are a warm and friendly people but steer well clear of a drunk Mongolian; he was highly persistent and, when it became clear that I was in no mood to subsidise his habit, he became aggressive, kicking the motorcycle and me. I fended off the first kick but I regret to admit, I placed a well aimed motorcycle boot as I rode off. https://wildmania.smugmug.com/Motorc...P1030542-L.jpg We also encountered a little territorial stand-off with a herd of horses (I just had to look up the collective noun for wild horses). They stood their ground in the cool water, the grey being the obvious leader, only a rev of the engine finally affording us clear passage. https://wildmania.smugmug.com/Motorc...P1030548-L.jpg https://wildmania.smugmug.com/Motorc...P1030550-L.jpg https://wildmania.smugmug.com/Motorc...P1030552-L.jpg https://wildmania.smugmug.com/Motorc...P1030556-L.jpg https://wildmania.smugmug.com/Motorc...P1030559-L.jpg |
By now, my confidence in sand was in tatters and I was picking my way.
https://wildmania.smugmug.com/Motorc...P1030578-L.jpg We eventually arrived in Zuunguv. It was tempting to hitch our motorcycles whilst we quenched our thirst. https://wildmania.smugmug.com/Motorc...P1030585-L.jpg https://wildmania.smugmug.com/Motorc...P1030587-L.jpg Ever the perfect hosts, I was provided with a stool to sit on. https://wildmania.smugmug.com/Motorc...P1030588-L.jpg Daniel had brought with him a Polaroid camera that prints photographs which proved to be a massive hit with local children. https://wildmania.smugmug.com/Motorc...P1030596-L.jpg https://wildmania.smugmug.com/Motorc...P1030601-L.jpg Whilst we were there, a Land Cruiser arrived and a rather portly gentleman wandered over and in broken English, enquired about us and our journey. Let me introduce you to Dam who, unbeknown to us at the time, would become a great friend. https://wildmania.smugmug.com/Motorc...P1030589-L.jpg |
As if I needed any more indication that the terrain had become sandy.
https://wildmania.smugmug.com/Motorc...P1030610-L.jpg https://wildmania.smugmug.com/Motorc...P1030612-L.jpg https://wildmania.smugmug.com/Motorc...P1030615-L.jpg |
Towards the end of the day, a few kms after this sign.
https://wildmania.smugmug.com/Motorc...P1000098-L.jpg Again! https://wildmania.smugmug.com/Motorc...P1030618-L.jpg https://wildmania.smugmug.com/Motorc...P1030617-L.jpg This one hurt. In a carbon copy of my crash in Morocco, three years earlier, I dabbed my right foot, my toes caught in the sand, the pannier followed through and caught my heel and within a second I was lying on the ground facing forwards with my foot facing backwards. I felt the MCL on the inside of my right knee 'go' as I went down; very painful. Picking bike up, I continued for another mile or so but it was obvious, I couldn't go on that day. We decided to camp by the side of the road and review our options in the morning. https://wildmania.smugmug.com/Motorc...P1030634-L.jpg We weren't on the main route into Ulaangom but on a track that the locals use. |
I've been asked why we hide ourselves when camping each night. The reason is that Mongolians are so friendly and inquisitive that they will stop if they see you, as they did that evening.
https://wildmania.smugmug.com/Motorc...P1030626-L.jpg https://wildmania.smugmug.com/Motorc...P1030625-L.jpg |
As we were packing away and reviewing our options the next morning, around 07:00, a vehicle came along the track, stopped and out stepped .... Dam, the gentleman we'd met in Zuunguv. After a little conversation he says, "You need ambulance and truck". I told him that an ambulance probably wasn't necessary but he simply said, "Two hours", jumped back in his Land Cruiser and waived at his driver.
We packed away and waited. https://wildmania.smugmug.com/Motorc...P1030653-L.jpg And waited. https://wildmania.smugmug.com/Motorc...P1030654-L.jpg My right knee was swollen and tender but could bear weight and I was hopeful that the damage wasn't as bad as three years ago. |
As we watched the morning traffic heading for Ulaangom, it became clear that every vehicle was getting stuck in the sand where I'd come off the previous evening. They'd have to unload all of the animals, get the truck out of the sand then load up again. You can see the vehicle in the background here.
https://wildmania.smugmug.com/Motorc...P1030688-L.jpg https://wildmania.smugmug.com/Motorc...P1030667-L.jpg https://wildmania.smugmug.com/Motorc...P1030673-L.jpg |
Just as we were beginning to lose a little faith, five and a quarter hours after he left, Dam reappears, accompanied by the Ulaangom ambulance, a doctor and some 'muscle'. He declares that a truck is also on the way.
https://wildmania.smugmug.com/Motorc...P1030703-L.jpg A quick examination by the doctor and he declares that I need x-rays so I'm bundled into the ambulance leaving Daniel in charge of my motorcycle. https://wildmania.smugmug.com/Motorc...P1030705-L.jpg https://wildmania.smugmug.com/Motorc...P1030708-L.jpg It's a good job that I hadn't broken anything since the ambulance ride was little short of terrifying. My rear-end literally left the seat twice on the 70km drive to Ulaangom. |
Dam and Daniel supervise my motorcycle being loaded onto the truck.
https://wildmania.smugmug.com/Motorc...P1030713-L.jpg |
It wasn't all plain-sailing from there since Dam's car had a flat.
https://wildmania.smugmug.com/Motorc...P1030709-L.jpg And as Daniel rode into Ulaangom alone, he discovered that the truck had got stuck in the sand. https://wildmania.smugmug.com/Motorc...P1030715-L.jpg https://wildmania.smugmug.com/Motorc...P1030719-L.jpg |
X-rays at the local hospital show, as suspected, nothing was broken and I'm prescribed an interesting cocktail of supplements and painkillers.
https://wildmania.smugmug.com/Motorc...IMG_1034-L.jpg Whilst I'm at the hospital, Dam's brother, Baathar appears with two large gentlemen and escort me to the dispensary and then to a hotel. It's the State Festival in Ulaangom and no hotel rooms had been available but they have found us a room in a guest house. One room, two beds, shared toilet, no shower. https://wildmania.smugmug.com/Motorc...P1030724-L.jpg https://wildmania.smugmug.com/Motorc...P1000103-L.jpg |
Dam tells us that he'll return at 10:00 the next morning. We enquire at midday and he messages that he has a busy day and can't come. The challenge that we have is that we don't know where my motorcycle is. Baathar texts at 14:15 that a driver will be with us within the hour. The driver never arrives. We chase at 18:00, resigned to spending another night in Ulaangom. No response.
We go for dinner but, due to the Festival, no restaurants are open. We discover that the bike is at Autoservice Badaa but there's no addresses or street names in Ulaangom and no one, not even the police, know where it is. We buy Kimchi and eat at 21:00. A frustrating day but these people wouldn't let me pay for anything yesterday; their hospitality knows no bounds. |
166 miles from Ulaangom towards Burgaasatyn Ortoo (only 23 miles from each other)
At 00:47, there's a knock on our hotel room door. It's Dam. He says, "We get motorcycle now". And we did. Autoservice Badaa was less than a mile away.
Dam had been racing that day as part of the Festival and Daniel and I fully understand. He'd come back to his home town from Moscow, where he works, to participate in the festivities. He was beautifully dressed in white silk with a broad-rimmed hat and leather riding boots. After we collect the bike, he takes some photographs and we hug and kiss (a local custom). I'm very grateful that this gentleman became a part of our life. The next day we find pristine tarmac. Pretty soon I realise that my steering is not right. I'd noticed and commented to Daniel on a "clunkiness" over previous days but under heavy braking on a paved road, the bars wobble uncontrollably. Daniel takes a ride and it's clear that my steering head bolt is loose. I'd had new steering head bearings fitted immediately before leaving on the trip. Had the bolt shaken loose or was it not properly tightened in the first place? We'll never know. https://wildmania.smugmug.com/Motorc...P1030739-L.jpg https://wildmania.smugmug.com/Motorc...P1030740-L.jpg |
We got carried away with the paved road, in the hope that it was heading where we wanted to go which was south. It wasn't showing on any map or GPS being so new. Unfortunately, the road slowly turned east. We headed back and stopped at a great little cafe and met lovely people.
https://wildmania.smugmug.com/Motorc...P1030743-L.jpg https://wildmania.smugmug.com/Motorc...PICT0069-L.jpg https://wildmania.smugmug.com/Motorc...P1030745-L.jpg They showed us a shortcut to our destination. Just follow the telegraph poles was the clear message. https://wildmania.smugmug.com/Motorc...P1030746-L.jpg https://wildmania.smugmug.com/Motorc...P1030755-L.jpg It soon became clear that whilst this was a great shortcut for lightweight bikes, ours were struggling as the terrain became more and more ... you've guessed it ... sandy! Daniel rode on to see if it improved. He returned to say that it got worse so we turned back after 5kms. As we headed back towards town. https://wildmania.smugmug.com/Motorc...P1030766-L.jpg Daniel's first drop of the trip although, in his defence, he was now carrying my heavy bag and I, his lighter one. That's what good riding buddies do! |
After another brief stop at the cafe, we headed back and found the right road.
https://wildmania.smugmug.com/Motorc...P1030783-L.jpg https://wildmania.smugmug.com/Motorc...P1030808-L.jpg https://wildmania.smugmug.com/Motorc...P1030812-L.jpg https://wildmania.smugmug.com/Motorc...P1030822-L.jpg https://wildmania.smugmug.com/Motorc...P1030844-L.jpg I was exhausted and Daniel was bored. We stopped for the night, aiming for an early start in the morning. https://wildmania.smugmug.com/Motorc...P1000106-L.jpg |
116 miles from Burgaasatayn Ortoo to Khovd
Some fantastic riding the next morning.
https://wildmania.smugmug.com/Motorc...P1030881-L.jpg https://wildmania.smugmug.com/Motorc...P1030882-L.jpg https://wildmania.smugmug.com/Motorc...P1030886-L.jpg https://wildmania.smugmug.com/Motorc...P1030898-L.jpg https://wildmania.smugmug.com/Motorc...P1030911-L.jpg https://wildmania.smugmug.com/Motorc...P1030924-L.jpg Whilst the afternoon provides more technical riding, we eventually come across graded gravel. https://wildmania.smugmug.com/Motorc...P1030932-L.jpg https://wildmania.smugmug.com/Motorc...P1030933-L.jpg https://wildmania.smugmug.com/Motorc...P1030938-L.jpg Which gives way to paved surface and a beautiful green valley, just before Khovd. https://wildmania.smugmug.com/Motorc...P1030941-L.jpg https://wildmania.smugmug.com/Motorc...P1030939-L.jpg We are in need of a hotel and shower and find just what we're looking for. https://wildmania.smugmug.com/Motorc...P1030952-L.jpg |
135 miles from Khovd to Ulgii
As we head out from Khovd on our last full day in Mongolia, there's more of my least favourite surface.
https://wildmania.smugmug.com/Motorc...P1030955-L.jpg https://wildmania.smugmug.com/Motorc...P1030954-L.jpg https://wildmania.smugmug.com/Motorc...P1030957-L.jpg https://wildmania.smugmug.com/Motorc...P1030956-L.jpg But it soon gives way to some stunning tracks. https://wildmania.smugmug.com/Motorc...P1030958-L.jpg https://wildmania.smugmug.com/Motorc...P1030960-L.jpg https://wildmania.smugmug.com/Motorc...P1030959-L.jpg https://wildmania.smugmug.com/Motorc...P1030962-L.jpg We meet a Hungarian guy coming in the other direction. https://wildmania.smugmug.com/Motorc...P1030977-L.jpg |
We get our only, "Over the boots" water crossing.
https://wildmania.smugmug.com/Motorc...P1030985-L.jpg |
And some fast, open tracks. Great riding.
https://wildmania.smugmug.com/Motorc...P1000119-L.jpg https://wildmania.smugmug.com/Motorc...P1000121-L.jpg https://wildmania.smugmug.com/Motorc...P1000123-L.jpg https://wildmania.smugmug.com/Motorc...P1000124-L.jpg https://wildmania.smugmug.com/Motorc...P1000125-L.jpg https://wildmania.smugmug.com/Motorc...P1000126-L.jpg https://wildmania.smugmug.com/Motorc...P1000128-L.jpg https://wildmania.smugmug.com/Motorc...P1000127-L.jpg https://wildmania.smugmug.com/Motorc...P1040016-L.jpg |
Ahem.
https://wildmania.smugmug.com/Motorc...P1040018-L.jpg Believe it or not, the wind blew me over. Honest. The last 60kms into Ulgii are paved. https://wildmania.smugmug.com/Motorc...P1040046-L.jpg https://wildmania.smugmug.com/Motorc...P1040049-L.jpg |
2 days, 715 miles from Ulgii to Rubtsovsk
After a Turkish meal in Ulgii (the Turks are doing a lot of business in Mongolia), it was an early night and an early departure to the border.
https://wildmania.smugmug.com/Motorc...P1040053-L.jpg https://wildmania.smugmug.com/Motorc...P1000132-L.jpg https://wildmania.smugmug.com/Motorc...P1000133-L.jpg https://wildmania.smugmug.com/Motorc...P1040054-L.jpg Two days through the Altai. https://wildmania.smugmug.com/Motorc...P1040064-L.jpg https://wildmania.smugmug.com/Motorc...P1040059-L.jpg |
Our first nights stop in the Altai was at a great little guest house by the river.
https://wildmania.smugmug.com/Motorc...P1040086-L.jpg https://wildmania.smugmug.com/Motorc...P1040089-L.jpg Our host. https://wildmania.smugmug.com/Motorc...P1040091-L.jpg For the second night, we were given what seemed to be the bridal suite, mirrors on the ceiling and deluxe bathroom. https://wildmania.smugmug.com/Motorc...IMG_1038-L.jpg https://wildmania.smugmug.com/Motorc...IMG_1037-L.jpg |
3 days, 948 miles through Kazakhstan to Bishkek in Kyrgyzstan
We put in some big miles so as not be rushed at the end. Three days of dodging potholes, thunderstorms and the notorious Kazakh police.
We made it. https://wildmania.smugmug.com/Motorc...P1040120-L.jpg |
Dropping off the bikes in Bishkek.
https://wildmania.smugmug.com/Motorc...P1040123-L.jpg A group of Italian riders had just arrived to start their trip from Bishkek. https://wildmania.smugmug.com/Motorc...IMG_1062-L.jpg One of them was 80 years old. Inspirational. |
I forgot to mention in my rush to get the ride report done before settling back into a work routine, that I had originally planned to travel to Mongolia some years ago with Belle and a couple of others. Unfortunately, work got in the way and I bailed. We had been due to meet up with this guy for the Mongolia leg of his round the World trip:
http://wildmania.smugmug.com/Other/A...85_KuASf-M.jpg Like me, he never made it. Unlike me, it wasn't work that got in the way but a truck in Brazil that ended his life. I told his father at the time that I'd light a candle in my heart and take it with me to Mongolia. I thought of Adrian a more than once in Mongolia. Ride on brother. |
Thanks for the RR. Glad you were able to finish. I hate sand and deep gravel. Great pics.
Sent from my HTC One_M8 using Tapatalk |
Great adventure
Great write up and photos well done.
Safe riding Paul |
Thanks guys.
Klaus posted this video of he and Jan's trip in the Northern Asia forum. He hasn't posted up a ride report so I hope he wont mind me posting it here. They did a very similar route to us across Mongolia except in reverse. We met them on route as you'll see at 13:40 in the video: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gkC_tUuY77M |
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