Caucasus - June 2016
 

After the Around the World in 83 days (October to December 2013) and the serious accident in the Canadian Rockies (head-on collision on a motorcycle against two deer at 150 km / h), this year I began again to travel "seriously."
In June I will be in the Caucasus.
I programmed a maximum of 29 days, but probably will be less.
He will start as usual from my house (Lecce-Italy), through the Balkans, Turkey and I will arrive in Georgia.
I will cross, in order:
1) Georgia
2) Abkhazia
Georgia
3) South Ossetia
Georgia
4) Armenia
5) Nagorno Karabakh
Armenia
Georgia
6) Azerbaijan
7) Russia
After Russia, to return to Italy, I will pass Ukraine (have already passed several times from Belarus and I want to travel a new road), then Hungary, Slovenia., Italy.
Total about 12,000 km, 15 States., 20 boundaries.
Draft of the path in the Caucasus.
http://www.gold-wing.it/moto/2016-06...unione1024.jpg

The Caucasus is a "hot" area and are aware of the risks. I have different information (other travelers, consulates, internet ...), but the situation is constantly changing and it is best to check again.
The critical components are especially some borders and visas (remember that I am an Italian citizen), in particular, this should be the situation:
1) Georgia-Abkhazia. It is only allowed through Zugdidi (entry and exit).
2) Georgia-South Ossetia. Is only allowed through Gori (entry and exit).
3) Armenia-Azerbaijan. Closed.
4) Nagorno Karabakh - Azerbaijan. Closed and Azerbaijan does not see signs of the passage in Nagorno Karabakh.
5) Azerbaijan-Russia. Open, but there are no offices for insurance and for currency exchange.
6) Russia-Ukraine. Closed in the south for the war in the Ukrainian separatist regions of Donetsk and Lugansk, I plan to cross the Russia-Ukraine border in the north, near Sumy and Hlukhiv (so north of Kharkiv), on the main route to Kiev.

"Hot" is also the Russian Caucasus, particularly Dagestan (there will come from Azerbaijan) and Chechnya (which will cross quickly).

So you will need a visa to:
1) Abkhazia (consulate United Kingdom, Germany, Greece)
2) Armenia (to be done at the border or in Italy), multiple inputs
3) Nagorno Karabakh (Ministry of Foreign Affairs of the Nagorno-K.)
4) Azerbaijan (in Italy)
5) Russia (in Italy)

The problem, I think, are especially seen for Nagarono Karabakh and Abkhazia.
- The visa for Nagorno Karabakh me procure alone in Nagorno Karabakh (at their Ministry of Foreign Affairs). The visa for Nagorno Karabakh will give me on a separate piece of paper, because, if the Azeris see it in the passport does not let me in. After visiting the Nagorno Karabakh (avoiding the bombs), I shall return to Armenia. I think I'll be as if I'd never come out from Armenia, officially, so do not put me a second stamp in the passport, or when I go out from Armenia to the Nagorno Karabakh conflict, or when returning to Armenia from Nagorno Karabakh (could cause problems when within Azerbaijan).
- The other problem, according to me more complicated to solve, is the visa for Abkhazia. I understand that the issue of diplomatic representations abroad, but can not find a consulate / embassy in Italy (because it is not recognized by any state, except Russia); There are representatives of Abkhazia in the United Kingdom, Germany, Greece (and a few other states). I understand that the consulate in the United Kingdom also accepts email request. How to do?

I also have some doubts about the practicability of the roads in some regions.
1) The mountain area of Svaneti, Georgia: dirt road maybe not entirely feasible, even for Snow in June (I drove my Gold Wing also on dirt roads and dilapidated, but it's still a half a ton of motorcycle road ).
2) The Georgian Military Highway, from Gori to the Russian border, often subject to landslides or snow.
3) In the north of Nagorno Karabakh: if the military will allow me and if the road will be passable.
4) The mountain villages in Quba (Azerbaijan): if the road towards Xinaliq will be viable.

I ask you if you have recent news that confirm or modify those that I have about the "hot" areas of my trip, in particular Abkhazia, South Ossetia, Nagorno Karabakh, Dagestan, Chechnya, Russia-Ukraine border. And for the practicability of the roads indicated before
And confirmations regarding visas, in particular how to achieve what for Abkhazia.

Thank you

Good luck, is it your challenge to look after the most difficult border passages, or just you're interested in those areas. I am myself, but I'm also a bit withholding: I want to travel and no problems.
You can find an interesting american TV-reportage about those countries somewhere on the Hubb. Both sides opinions!

I do not trouble me I go to look for them, but the reasons are these:
1) I was with my Gold Wing motorcycle in 82 States http://www.gold-wing.it/moto/stati.htm I've been all over Europe and then the Caucasus is the only place near where I was not. In America I will go there next year.
2) If there is a ban, I want to overcome it. I can not stand the access prohibitions; I think all travelers should be free to go anywhere, with reasonable permits. So if a site is forbidden without reasonable cause, and I want to go there, I will find a way to go. Likewise I was all over the Middle East (in 2010), although Syria forbade those who had been in Israel to enter Syria.
3) With proper planning, the situation study and travel experience, the danger level is acceptable; but no more than to cross the Pakistan alone, as I did in 2013.
4) The Caucasus is interesting to visit, like nature, history and people.

Not sure where you have been getting this information from, but a couple of points:

You cannot enter South Ossetia from Georgia.You can only enter from Russia. I did this in 2010 in my car and it's a very nice trip.

Abkhazian embassies in the UK, Germany, Greece?? Where did you get this idea? None of those countries recognise Abkhazia as a country, so of course there are no embassies there. In 2010 I got an entry permit over the internet from the Abkhazian Foreign Affairs Ministry and then got a visa in Sukhum (Abkhazia). You can only enter Abkhazia from Zugdidi, or from Russia.

There is a new asphalt road to Mestia (Svaneti). Beyond is dirt tracks which I doubt are really suitable for such a heavy bike.

Nagorno Karabakh is great to explore with your own vehicle. Many areas are officially off-limits, but I found that nobody checked and I drove all around the area without problems. Many of the roads are in quite poor condition, but nothing too bad. The road along the Iranian border is a very interesting (shocking) drive.

Ingushetia, Chechnya, Dagestan are some of the most interesting parts of the Caucasus, I highly recommend visiting.

The road from Quba to Xinaliq is asphalt and fine for a bike.

Perhaps you are interested in a write-up of some of my trips in the Caucausus here:

Azerbaijan, Georgia, Abkhazia:

Stage 19 – Azerbaijan, Georgia & Abkhazia: The South Caucasus | EurasiaOverland

Adygeya, Karachayevo Cherkessia, South Ossetia:

Stage 20 – Russia & South Ossetia: The North Caucasus [1/2] | EurasiaOverland

North Ossetia, Ingushetia, Chechnya, Dagestan:

Stage 20 – Russia & South Ossetia: The North Caucasus [2/2] | EurasiaOverland

Good luck.

From 2015 it is possible entry in South Ossetia from Georgia. It is wrote on internet site of italian embassy in Georgia. I wrote to italian consulate and they answered: ok, no problem.
Other things, tomorrow.

Hi. According to the recent information you cannot enter Abkhazia from Georgia using personal transport because the crossing bridge over Inguri river is closed for auto/moto traffic.

And it is possible enter in Abkhazia from Russia using personal transport (motorcycle)?

Russia recognized Abkhazia as an independent state, so it makes things a little easier. Yes, it's possible to enter AB from Russia using private transport. However it's better to double-check the issue because all official information concerns Russian-registered vehicles (Russian registration plates, Russian driving license)

I have no other way to control. For this I ask information here.
I ask you for help to know if, as a "foreign" (Italian) I can get into Abkhazia from Russia with my bike (Italian), with international driver's license (Italian).
You're sure I can not come from Georgia? Have you heard how recent?
Obviously, if I have to get into Abkhazia from Russia, I'll make a Russian multiple-entry visa, because I'll have to enter Russia 2 times.
I have no trouble making 1000 kilometers more to get into Abkhazia, but I have to be reasonably safe.
Thank you

On the website of the Italian Consulate in Georgia (Disposizioni georgiane sulle restrizioni all’ingresso e alle attività imprenditoriali di cittadini stranieri nelle regioni separatiste dell’Abkhazia e dell’Ossezia del Sud ) and the site of the Italian Foreign Ministry (Dettaglio - Viaggiare Sicuri) is clearly written that (I translate from Italian): "the entry of foreign nationals in Abkhazia and South Ossetia (including the airspace, territorial waters and the exclusive economic zone in accordance with the United Nations Convention on the Law of the Sea) it is only allowed through Zugdidi (for Abkhazia) and Gori (for ' South Ossetia)."
Maybe your information is out of date (they are of 2010, the year of your trip?). I would be grateful if you had other updated information. Thank you.

I'm skeptical that the 'border' between Georgia and South Ossetia has opened. I don't trust information from embassies. Try, but be prepared to go via Russia. In 2014 I was at the Georgia - South Osstia 'border' and spoke to a border guard, who assured me itwas not possible to enter. If you really have a chance to enter, you will also need permission from the South Ossetian authorities (Ministry of Foreign Affairs) to enter. The drive from Russia crosses the Transcaucasian highway and is a very beautiful journey, worth it if you have a multi-entry Russian visa.

For Abkhazia, it is fine to enter from Russia, but you cannot go further into Georgia proper, so you need to return to Russia.

There are no official embassies, but there are diplomatic representatives: Министерство Иностранных дел Республики Абхазия I know that Abkhazia is not officially is not officially recognized almost anyone, but I do not care the formality, but the substance. ;)

I have no problem to get a multiple-entry visa russia, but the permission of the authorities of South Ossetia, to those who ask? In Italy, in Ossetia, located where the office? I may ask from Italy before I leave?

How bad is the road? Worse than these roads or better?
My travels in Kazakhstan
http://www.gold-wing.it/moto/2009-06...s/IMG_1275.jpg

and Nepal, always with my Honda Gold Wing 1500.
http://www.gold-wing.it/moto/2013-10...s/IMG_2764.jpg

Bongiorno again.
Regarding border between ABH/Georgia and AB/Russia. From Georgian side you can enter ABH only as pedestrian. Period.
They allow transport traffic only for local ABH cars with permits.
From Russian side you can enter ABH using own transport. Border crossing name is PSOU. You will need bike registration papers, driving license, travel passport. If bike registered on somebody else you would need notarized power attorney letter stating that you can ride the bike and can take it out of Italy.
When you cross the border they will charge you some money for crossing and medical insurance (numbers always changing, amounts are small).

Important: you have to enter and leave ABH from the same crossing point. Otherwise you might have some serious hassle on the border, including Russian part.

Thank you.
What means "period"?
No problem. I'll enter from Russia in Abkhazia. It's only 500 km more. I have "bike registration papers, driving license, travel passport". It's my bike.

And I am checking on South Ossetia as well. Might be complicated. "Period" means no other choices, only this solution. American English.

While riding ABH and other places in Caucasus region (expect Georgia, maybe) be extra cautious about traffic rules and especially speeding. Local road police is world famous for its desire to get side kickbacks. All traffic violations in ABH mean that police takes away your license until an official fine is paid in full. To do so is quite tricky. Almost all incidents end up right on the spot where you pay your way out of the trouble.
Speeding is checked from unmarked cars. If it says 40, and you ride 45, you most definitely will be pulled over.

I think I found the solution for Abkhazia: I will ask for a visa on my own, with internet. Tonight I sent the email to the Foreign Ministry of Abkhazia.
I spoke (by telephone) with Abkhazia consul in San Marino: was very kind, although not within its competence (I do not have the console numbers in Italy). Moreover, as I spoke, I discovered that it is also South Ossetia console, so I had also information for South Ossetia! :thumbup1:
The console has confirmed to me that for Abkhazia and South Ossetia is best to get from Russia, because the bike would not make me come from Georgia in Abkhazia and maybe even walk in Ossetia.
So now I recalculate the route, expecting to get from Russia. The days change a little bit (about 4 days ahead of the entry in Armenia and Azerbaijan and Russia, which then employ more days in Russia).
In summary, then, shall I do with the agency in Italy:
1) Armenia (if I decide not to do it directly at the border)
2) Azerbaijan
3) Russia. The visa to Russia will serve me plural, because I'll have 3 entries in Russia: from Azerbaijan, South Ossetia, Abkhazia. Not the Russian multiple-entry visa is a problem: as usual, just ... pay.
To get into Ossetia do not need visas or, if needed, they do at the border: the important thing is to get in there, from Russia, with Russian visa plural, because then you have to return to Russia.

Now it remains to see where I can cross without problems the border between Russia and Ukraine. :mchappy:

The road beyond Mestia to Ushguli is pretty much like the Nepalese road. If you want a challenge, try the road to Tushetia (Omalo). It destroys 2WD cars :D

No entry to Abkhazia from Georgia with a vehicle? This must be a new rule. In 2010 I drove from Georgia into Abkhazia, and then on into Russia.

Have to say I'm surprised that there are plenipotentiaries for Abkhazia in Europe. I doubt they can get you a visa though.

Try Googling for the South Ossetian MFA. They used to have quite a nice website; this is how I got permission to enter. To see the best of the mountains in South Ossetia you need a good 4x4; the road is BAD! But to drive the Trans-Caucasiuan Highway, any vehicle is fine, as the Russians have made nice asphalt along the whole way :)

For Schengen-area passport holders, a Russian 1 year visa should not be expensive any longer.

Why would you want to buy a visa in advance for Armenia? EU nationals get a 90 day entry stamp, no visa is needed any longer.

1) I'm not crazy enough to go with a Gold Wing to Omalo. :laugh:
2) For the ban to enter into Abkhazia with its own motorcycle (or car), I asked for confirmation to an other Abkhazia's consul in Italy and the Italian Consulate in Georgia (I await response).
3) The consuls of Abkhazia in Europe do not give a visa, but I think just about to get it.
I ask for a visa to the Ministry of Foreign Affairs of Abkhazia, by email. The consul in Italy I only asked for information.
4) I did not find an internet website of South Ossetia in English. In Russian language to me it is unreadable.
Thank you for your help.

If you enter Nagorno Karabakh you stand a chance of being black listed from Azerbaijan for life if they found out so bear that in mind for your trip planning

I know.
But I'm not so stupid to do stamp my passport in Nagorno K.
I will do as when I went with the motorcycle in Israel and Syria: stamp on a sheet separate from passport. :innocent:

Yes just some people have there website links of there trip on stickers on there bikes and photos on the cameras

Its a great route but i think it would be alot better for planning if you did it the other way round going clock wise round not anti clock wise like starting the North West Russian Caucasus

Like start as you plan to finish by heading to Ukraine via Belarus, Hungary, Slovenia & Italy ect ect first

That way you start your Caucasus trip and will enter all the "problem areas" via country's that are fine with you doing it rather than country's that are not fine with it which you return to so you are sure there will be no problems

Even if you are pushed for time when you get to Batumi in Georgia which if you went Clock wise round would be near the end of your trip there is ferry's that goes to Odessa in Ukraine

I thank you for these your suggestions, because, in preparing for a trip like this is not easy, I might forget something, but ...
1) I also have a website (see signature), but in my site will not put some references to my planned shift in Nagorno Karabakh. Later yes (on my return to Italy), but certainly not before (on my return to Italy). Indeed, I will do as my trip to the Middle East: put a map with a FALSE path, which turns from Nagorno Karabakh and I will show this to the Azerbaijani police, then taking them around like I did for the Syrians, which showed a map where I had falsified my path in Israel. Who puts prohibitions so stupid deserves to be made fun of.
2) On my website I have a direct link to my Spot3, indicating, every 5 minutes, my position. Before leaving I'll modify this link to make it unreadable. It will be accessible only to my friends, which I will reveal the correct link. If the Azeris will ask me what is the Spot on my bike, I will say this is only for the SOS.
3) I will use 2 microsd different: one for photos in Nagorno Karabakh, the other for the rest of the trip: even an Azerbaijani officer finds a microSD into a Gold Wing.
4) I understand that you suggest to make the journey in reverse, ie Ukraine-Russia-South Caucasus. It does not seem appropriate, because, entering Abkhazia and Ossetia from Russia (as suggested by other previous post and as it seems to be advisable by the news that I reported), then, if they realize the Georgians, is trouble for me. Also I do not think that the North Caucasus is "simpler Southern" (Dagestan, Chechnya ...).
5) With regard to your suggestion of a ferry boat to Odessa, I do not take a ferry even if they pay me (except where necessary, b.p. to get to the islands as in Japan): It is not my way of traveling ... on a motorcycle. And then, between Odessa and Italy, which path should I do? It would not be a convenient and secure location; and Odessa is not in a quiet area in Ukraine.
6) As regards Ukraine, I repeat the request I made in the first post: I need information on what the border crossings secure between Russia and Ukraine (in the north of Ukraine, on the main route to Kiev).

I did not find an internet website of South Ossetia in English. In Russian language to me it is unreadable. Can you help me with that?

Today I contacted the Italian consul (in Italy) of South Ossetia, to obtain a visa (he says he has to ask two months before, otherwise at the border could refuse me).

The console (in Italy) of South Ossetia told me.
It should work like this: I send an email to the Foreign Ministry of South Ossetia; the consul gave me the email address (MFA-RSO@MAIL.RU), but said there is not a website, he wrote saying that knows me, and Minister gives me permission. There is nothing to pay.
The problem is that I have to state the precise dates and this is difficult because, as usual, in a motorcycle trip I can not know exactly when I will be in one place, especially since the passage in Ossetia will be in the second part of the journey; In any case, I do not like to be tied down.
But I have to adapt to their rules (especially seems to be important to be precise about the date of arrival in South Ossetia), so now I download OSM updated maps and precise route calculation and times: in fact, I have to change the path, because originally the passage in Abkhazia and south Ossetia was planned before Russia (coming from Georgia), but now it will take place after visiting the south Caucasus, then coming from the north, from Russia.
Meanwhile, last night I asked (by email) visa Abkhazia. The abcazi should respond in a week (it is written on their site; even the consul said that they are faster); Instead Ossetia should have more time (now the consul told me about a month).
The Russian visa (multiple) and Azerbaijani do them here in Italy; Armenian will do it at the border, so you do not have to make too many date calculations.
-------------------
It remains to find evidence on which the border is open between Russia and Ukraine: there is no one who has recent news?

New route, after deciding (as explained in the above post) to enter South Ossetia and Abkhazia by Russia and not by Georgia (I will alert you when they come to me visas):
3934 km from Lecce to Georgia (purple). 6 States (Italy, Slovenia, Croatia, Serbia, Bulgaria, Turkey), 6 borders. 5 days, from 1 to 5 June. 787 km per day.
2940 km south Caucasus (red). 4 States (Georgia, Armenia, Nagorno Karabakh, Azerbaijan), 6 borders. 12 days, from 6 to 17. 245 km per day.
1630 km north Caucasus (green). 3 States (Russia, South Ossetia, Abkhazia), 3 boundaries. 5 days from 18 to 22. Km per day 326.
1656 km from Abkhazia Ukraine, 2 States (Abkhazia, Russia), 2 borders. 2 days, from 23 to 24. Km per day 828.
3165 km Ukraine in Lecce, 4 States (Ukraine, Hungary, Slovenia, Italy), 3 boundaries. 4 days, from 25 to 28. Km per day 791.
Total 13,325 km. 15 States, 20 border. 28 days, from 1 to 28 June. Km per day 476.

I could spend 2 more days: 1 to cross Ukraine (low speed), 1 in Russia (border crossing with Ukraine). I not will overcome 30 days.
I could spend two days less: 1 to arrive in Georgia, 1 in the Caucasus. I do not think spend less than 26 days.

http://www.gold-wing.it/moto/2016-06-01-caucaso/01b.jpg

http://www.gold-wing.it/moto/2016-06-01-caucaso/02b.jpg

Hi, have you done this trip in 2016?

I'm specially interested by crossing border AZ/RUSSIA then driving across Daghestan to Astrakhan.

Thanks for by our reply.

RR.

Yes, I done my trip in Caucasus in June 2016.
No problem in the border from Azerb. to Russia; no problem in Daghestan, no problem in Cecenia (for me).

We went from Georgia to Astrakhan in July 2016. No problems at all. In fact North Ossetia, Ingushetia, Chechnya and Dagestan were all quite pleasant. People were friendly and helpful everywhere we went.
There were a lot of police checkpoints along the way, but they seemed to only stop local trucks and busses. They never bothered us.

Thanks a lot for these quick reply.

I'm happy to know you have crossed Az/RUSSIA, then Daghestan without any problem.
I'm planning to do that trip with my own car spring 2017, I suppose you've done it with your bikes.
Have you made bivouacs or sleep in hôtels.

RR.

With my motorbike, Honda Gold Wing 1500.
I always slept in the hotel.

Thanks again,

RR.

We wild camped.
So you have options :thumbup1:

Hi DuibceK,

Thanks for your reply, happy to know that.
Can you tell me when you do wild camping? And where in Daghestan (not the GPS point, but near which road?).
What is your opinion about general safety for tourist in Daghestan?

RR.

Another expereriences about Daghestan?
RR.

Dagestan is absolutely wonderful, friendly, fascinating and beautiful. I've visited three times and I highly recommend it, especially the mountains. There were some security issues in coastal regions in the past, but it has greatly improved in the last few years following security operations in the North Caucasus around the Sochi Olympics, and a general exodus of jihadists towards Syria.

Have a look here:

https://eurasiaoverland.com/2010/06/03/20ii/

EO

Thanks a lot for this reply, hoping that terrorist don't come back from Syria soon!
Have you crossed AZ/RUSSIA and Az/Iran borders and when?
And with which vehicle?
My plan is to do that route next spring.
RR.

Sorry, I didn't check your site before my reply.....

In Dagestan we camped a bit north of Kizljar, on a grass field near a dirt road off the E119.

I'm with Eurasiaoverland on this. People were super friendly, seemed happy to see western tourists and a few came to talk to us whenever we stopped somewhere. The usual questions: where are you from? how much is your bike? Why on earth did you come to this shit-hole? :rofl:

The lady running the shop where we got our provisions for that night didn't want to take our money at first. At least not until we grabbed even more food and then told her she couldn't possibly let us go with all that stuff without paying for it. She clearly appreciated the gesture.

Hi RR

In 2015 I drove from Azerbaijan into Russia at the Samur / Yarag-Kazmalyar border crossing (on the M29). Totally normal border crossing. I have not yet written this up on my website.

I have crossed Azerbaijan - Iran in 2010 at Astara / Astara, and in 2014 at Julfa / Jolfa. You can also cross at Bilehsuvar, though I have not personally done this.

Good luck,

EO

Thanks EO and Duibhcek for your reports, sounds good:thumbup1:

RR.

So did you make it into South Ossetia from Georgia? Or get a visa from the plenipotentiaries of Abkhazia in the EU?