Montreal to Buenos Aires
 

Hello,

My friend and i will be leaving Montreal in October. We're bothn experienced travellers, but as of late the dangers in central america have started to get to us. Was wondering if anyone has been through the region recently and if in fact it is a scary situation. It's supposed to be beautiful and I really don't want to rush through. Also if you could recommed what path to somewhat follow or certain places to avoid.

We would also be keen to meet up with local riders along the way, always nice to see places through a local perspective. So please shoot me a note if you'd like to meet up at some point.

Countries we're most concerned with...
Nicaragua
Honduras
Guatemala

Thanks!

Mexico
 

Interesting that Mexico is not on your list of countries to worry about. If you come through Mexico (you don't have much choice) you are welcome to stay with us in Mex City.

That's a bit puzzling. The negative press that we get here deals pretty much with Mexico and not Central America.

Not entirely current but just over a year ago I did a solo return trip through Mexico and every Central American country. I encountered exactly zero problems and met pretty much nothing but friendly, genuine, helpful and interesting people. Guatemala was astounding (yes, I took mostly the little side roads that everyone warned me not to take). I absolutely loved Nicaragua and Honduras was almost too "American" at times. Southern Mexico was my fave for that country and all the others were special in their own way. I never once felt threatened or in any danger. When asking for directions, four times the locals decided to simply lead me out of the city on their little bikes as a courtesy to a foreigner. This happened to me twice in Mexico, once in Leon, Nicaragua and once in Tegucigalpa, Honduras.

Just go, use some common sense, don't get involved with shady characters, and don't believe most of what you hear.

Recommendations:

Mexico:
Pacific Coast
Sir Edward James' art near Xilitla (totally trippy, man!)
San Miguel De Allende (kinda trendy but absolutely beautiful ..and expensive)
Taxco
Real De Catorce (partly abandoned former silver mining town at 9500' elevation)
Barrancas Del Cobre (Copper Canyon)
Ruta Federal 40, Espinazo Del Diablo (between Durango and Mazatlan. Drive 240km's to cover about 120km's)
Colima (clean colonial city with a smoking 14,000' volcano standing guard. Set up for local tourists. Lots of clean green spaces filled with university students making use of the free wifi stations and plug ins.
Oaxaca (Authentic state capital)
San Cristobal De Las Casas (I was there during Easter weekend and almost everyone was local ...had a blast)
Art District, San Jose Del Cabo
Estuary at San Jose Del Cabo for bird watching
Cabo Del Este, outside of San Jose Del Cabo
El Triunfo between Los Barriles and Todos Santos

Guatemala
Fuentes Georgina near Xela (Quetzaltenango)
Thursday or Sunday market in Chichicastenango (go into the big central tent for the authentic market)
Antigua (touristy but very beautiful)
Back roads from Antigua south
Lago Izabal (north side, quiet and very non touristy ...aside from local tourists)
Hot springs waterfall above Finca El Paraiso, Lago Izabal north side
Tikal, camp on site to get into the ruins before the tour buses arrive
Yaxha. Smaller ruins on the road towards Belize. Great little site with no large tour buses. Watch the monkeys play in the jungle from the top of a pyramid.

Belize
Caracol (go in before the optional military escort leaves so you can have the place to yourself for several hours while ambling amongst the ruins and listening to the jungle sounds.
Rio On Pools, on the way to Caracol. Great place to cool down on a hot Belize afternoon.
Placencia. A bit too developed for my taste but it's a neat little expat artist community.

El Salvador
Ruta De las Flores

Honduras
Lago Yojoa
D&D Brewpub, near Lago Yojoa
Copan Ruinas
The highlands just outside of Tegucigalpa (Valle De Angeles area)

Nicaragua
Selva Negra (Black Forest)
Las Penitas (wild surfer beach outside of Leon)
Leon (more "real" than Granada)
Volcan Masaya (drive right to the crater's edge and go for an easy hike to escape the sulfur fumes)
Laguna de Appoyo (great swimming lake with lots of accommodation. Watch the lightning storms over the lake during the rainy season)
Isla Ometepe ...I loved Finca Magdalena, an organic coffee cooperative run mostly by women

Costa Rica
Pacific coast (quite Americanized but also quite beautiful)
Laguna Arenal (spectacular lake in the much cooler highlands, looks a bit like Switzerland at times)
Southern highlands (San Vito, Rio Sereno area)
Pan American going south from San Jose (high altitude with lots of twists and turns)

Panama
Northern highlands
Pacific beaches
Panama Canal
Panama city (just for the hell of it)
The end of the road at Yaviza (about 275km's south of Panama City)


...Michelle
www.scrabblebiker.com

Don't get me wrong, Mexico is a concern as well, but as you mentioned it gets most the press, so much easier to figure out what the hot spots are. Also most the violence in Mexico doesn't seem to be targeted at tourists, where as places like Honduras it's a little more random.

Regardless, for every scary story that gets coverage, there are hundreds of great stories that never see the light of day.

Thank you Garry for the offer, I'll certainly be in touch. And thank you Michelle for taking so much time to write, really appreciate it!!

This past winter spent about 3 months doing trips down to Yaviza,Panama and all over Mexico , good times all over
Ditto to all of Michelle's suggested places,
... just to add a few more In Panama do not miss the area around Volcan Baru , either do one side or both , i.e. the country around Volcan and around Boquete will be a total surprise and a treat to visit very populated and temperate ,explore all the small roads to their ends. El Valle)In Guatemala Coban area is neat, coolish moutain climate , coffee growing

In Mexico the list is enormous but to pick a few additional areas try to do some exploring in the Sierra Gorda when you are near Xilitla, try to get to Cuetzalan de Progreso,PUE the paved road to there from Zacatlan and Xalapa is very nice in all respects Xalapa city and surrounding upslope country both very scenic and a Mexican surprise
As for security . not a worry anywhere if you stay alert to any signals of potential problems ,mind your manners and stay off the streets late after store closing hours , avoid booze joints and druggies .
Central America per se is no more dangerous than Mexico . The hazards are more related to urban areas where the slackers and ne'er do wells cluster and try to get their daily money needs ( usually for booze and drugs) by resorting to muggings or rip and run tactics- just as in USA and Canada. For this reason stay especially vigilant if walking in some of the bigger cities or taking a break at uncrowded city vista points where these cretins often wait their chance and then dash off into their known slums or trails.

I want to do the same trip thanks for all the great info !!! Would be nice you posted some picture as well :)

Great information, thx. We're crossing into Mexico this week and this is very useful information.

My wife and I left Vancouver last August and rode all the way down to Argentina and as far as Kenya from South Africa and just returned 2 weeks ago. Don't listen to what the media or arm-chair travelers have to say about safety and security. Mexico is still one of our favorite places. The locals are extremely friendly and helpful. Use common sense and you will be safe. It's a blast and savor every moment of it.
Daryll

Hi

When you get to Quito Ecuador - stop by for some advice and some routes at our shop in the Mariscal section of town. FreedomBikeRental.com

We also have a bedroom with a hot tub available for riders coming this way.

Hope to see you in the middle of the world!

-Court

Hey Michelle!

Will you be in Nakusp next week? If so I'll buy you and lets have a chat.

Last year Tracey and I sat with you for dinner one night. We are leaving Sept 17 for Argentina.

Hey Jordan, Great to hear you guys are getting into Mexico. Hopefully we will join up somewhere.

Cheers
Miles

Thanks for the great information, what are the maps (map company) you used and trust for Mexico, Central America, and South America. I am actually setting up a RTW trip to be leaving from CO in November. Thanks Fletch

A few more Nicaragua tips
 

My father and I are working on plans for central america trip this winter. Thanks Scrabblebiker for the great info- those are going into our route planning!

I have spent some time in Nicaragua and never had any issues- everyone we met was great. I would also recommend Ometepe Island. On the south west side of the island there is a cool water fall up in the forest. Ask around for details, but it's a nice hike up to it and good way to get off the bike for a bit with a beautiful waterfall reward at the end.

A lot of people will steer you toward San Juan Del Sur. It's OK. Very touristy but if you're looking for a break in a beach town it could be a good stop.

You can't go wrong with these.
Maps for travel, City Maps, Road Maps, Guides, Globes, Topographic Maps
Daryll

Thanks will pick up a few of these..
Fletch