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How many possible routes through Brazil north to south ?
Hey everyone,
The title of my post sums it all up :-) How many possible routes are there ( cycling, if that matters ) from any coastal point north in the South American continent ( Guyana/Suriname/French Guiana and northern Brazil ) down to Bolivia or Paraguay ? Not counting Venezuela, although I know it is an option, too. And weather-wise what would be the best season to cross the Amazonian forest ? L. |
Taking into account permutations and combinations, there are hundreds, if not thousands. If you can narrow down the question you may get some answers.
Best time for the Amazon basin - June to November. |
Alright then !
Where can I cross into Brazil ( heading south, by road ) from either French Guiana, Suriname or Guyana ? And from there what are my options for riding south to Bolivia, taking in the Amazon basin ? L. |
The answer to your first question is pretty obvious on any map: there is one route south from French Guiana, and another south from Guyana. That's it. Both were partially paved, partially dirt, and occasionally quite tiresome and muddy last I was there more than 10 years ago. I hung with some bicyclists for a bit, and they told me they were having a rough time of it--and I later heard that one of them had contracted dengue in the Guianas. But truckdrivers told me both roads used to be much, much worse, so maybe by now they're much, much better.
"Taking in the Amazon Basin" is really best done by boat, not road. If you head for Belem, you'll spend at least a day on a boat no matter what route you choose. I'll leave it to others more knowledgeable than I to give you some specifics. You might still find it useful to narrow the field some more. It's unlikely anyone will write you a Brazil to Bolivia guidebook, and there are quite a few options. Hope that's helpful. Mark |
Hey Mark,
That is helpful. A friend of mine rode Ushuaia to Caracas some years ( 15 ? ) ago. He crossed into Brazil from Bolivia and then headed north to Porto Velho where he took the boat to Manaus. He resumed riding from there. At the time that PV-Manaus stretch was considered very difficult, even for hardcore cyclists. Or maybe he was there at the wrong time of year, I don't recall. But anyways he decided to hop on the boat. The road through Guyana also looks quite challenging. L. |
Hi levelo,
It sounds like you want to ride from the Guyanas to Bolivia, through Brazil. The road from Georgetown to Lethem, Guyana, isn't bad if traveled during the dry season. I rode north from Lethem in early November 2012 and encountered only a few puddles that spanned the width of the road. Visit my lame blog post here: https://www.petersride.com/2012/11/goin-to-guyana.html For planning purposes, I recommend checking annual rainfall for Guyana on various websites. Here is an example for Lethem, Guyana Once reaching Lethem cross the frontier into Brazil and head for Boa Vista, then continue south to Manaus. From there take BR-319 to Humaitá. The 300-400 mile stretch of road has minimal services. I don't believe there are any hotels or gas stations. That doesn't mean you can't find a bed but will need to ask around. Some riders shared stories of sleeping on the loading docks of cell phone towers. Gas may be purchased in roadside restaurants, typically out of a barrel or from farmers. Keep in mind, BR-319 is largely packed clay until you reach Humaitá. By reviewing Google Maps, it looks like the road south of Humaitá to Porto Velho is paved. I understand the best (driest) time of year to ride BR-319 is July/August. If you try to take on BR-319 during periods of significant rain, you'll be telling a mud story that is hundreds of miles long. As documented in his series, Tough Rides, Ryan Pyle seeks the hard way. He rode BR-319 during the rainy season. I think the timing makes his adventure dramatic and worthy of the series title, so he intentionally picked the worst time of year. It is doubtful you want to do the same, I don't! =) I heard there is a ferry on the Madeira River, which runs parallel to BR-319, but where the services start on the north end is not known to me. I won't take a boat when a road is available. :scooter: There are several options for entering northern or northeastern Bolivia from Brazil, but I have no experience or advice. Someone else here on the HUBB might be able to give a recommendation. I am planning to ride BR-319 in early August 2023. If I see you headed south, I'll be sure to stop and chat with you. What are your overall plans? |
And are you bicycling, or motorcycling? I assumed the former based on your first post, but failing to be clear about that will affect the applicability of any answers you get.
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Hey Peter & Markharf,
Yes, cycling. Thanks for your detailed answer, Peter. I am on the road right now ( Iceland ) with limited time to answer you. I will when I get back to the continent. First hand information on that road from Guyana south into Brazil is exactly what I was asking for :-) Cheers, L. |
Hi Levelo,
I did cross from Bolivia to Brazil at the Gayaramerin border to go spend time in the Amazons. Easy border crossing. You just need to take a small boat to cross to into Brasil. I was there more than 15 years ago. May be things have changed but I would cross the Bolivian north section in the dry season. New friends were waiting by the side of the dirt road when I was riding: this area is a swamp and crocodiles were hanging by the side of the road. I can only imagine that their playground would be bigger in the rainy season. It does not mean that they will eat you. I had to spend a night alone by a river in the Amazons and the crocodiles left me alone. I guess they don't like the taste of canadian food. Patrick |
Hi Levelo,
I was curious about how the route from Gayaramerin to Rurrenabaque might have changed. The route is now paved from Gayaranerin to south of Riberalta. The rest of the route looks very dry to Rurrenabaque. If you travel between May and August you will be definitly fine. I rode there in 2005 in the fall season and there were many water pools. As mentioned, i ran into crocodiles. One did not get lucky and got run over by a truck. This was all 18 years ago. My comments are not worth much today. I would not hesitate to take that route now in the dry season on a bicycle. Patrick |
tough roads
Colombia to the Orinoco then Venezuela to many river cities you follow the river turn south to Brazil probably takes the cake
via Villavelencio to puerto Careńos 800km only done 1 December - January end this is the dry season but shit happens El-Ñino has suprises |
Hello everyone,
I am almost done with the European leg of my ride. Time to get a bit more serious with the planning of the second leg through South America :innocent: @ Peter : Did you ride BR 319 as planned ? @PatOn Trip : Thanks for the good advice and for taking the time to research the Bolivian/Brazil part of it. Most likely I will fly from France to Cayenne, French Guiana, at the very beginning of November. I have contacted a bunch of friends who over the years have ridden ( cycled ) through that part of the world. Starting in Cayenne the going shouldn't be too difficult as far as Georgetown, Guyana ( mostly if not all paved roads ). The road south to Lethem into Brazil down to Boa Vista will be done in the dry ( late November/early December ). If I decide to go south from there ( Manaus, then down to Porto Velho ) then I will hit the beginning/heart of the rainy season in the Amazon basin, all the way down to Bolivia ( December & January ). The paved sections should be alright, but probably not the dirt ones ( Manaus to Humaita, plus across the border in Bolivia ). I could probably hop on the Manaus-Porto Velho boat on the Madeira River though, if such boat still exists, but I know from experience ( Central Africa ) that you don't want to be riding when the rains are full on :nono: The second option I am considering is entering Venezuela from Boa Vista, and travel west from there into Colombia via La Gran Sabana, Ciudad Guayana, Puerto Carreno, San Fernando de Apure and San Cristobal. A friend of mine followed that route more than 15 years ago. I wonder if that would be safe enough though considering the distance and the hardships the country is going through. Feel free to comment, contradict or advise me ?c? Levelo. |
I rode a bit of what your describing last year 2022 -2023 on motorcycle;
Cusco>Inapari>Porto Vehlo>Manaus (BR319)>Lethem>Georgetown>Paramaribo>Cayenne>Macap a ferry to Belem. Timeframe November-January BR319 caught it at end of dry season. Only small rains at the time. No tough mud, lots of potholes/ruts, do-able on bicycle. All commercial vehicles take the ferries Manaus>Porto Vehlo and other way around. Lots of scheduled ferries. DM for more info if you like. Good luck. |
Hello Budgetrider,
Thank you for the input. BR 319 looks like hell in the wet. Do you remember precisely when you tackled it ? Early/late December ? I plan to start in Cayenne in the first week of November, going the other way around, on a pushbike so much, much slower than you. I will probably be in Manaus in mid-December at the earliest. L. |
Hello everyone,
I am in Manaus, time for me to give you a little update on my travels. Everything has been going well so far. From Cayenne, French Guiana, where I landed, I rode northwest, crossed into Suriname and then into Guyana. I stayed on the main coastal road which was nice ( and easy ) throughout. Then I headed south to Lethem as planned ( first week of December ). The dirt track can be rough on a bicycle with patches of soft sand and a lot, just an awful lot of corrugation. It was still very dry when I passed ( the rainy season was late ) which made it impossibly dusty. A Brazilian company is currently working on it in bits ( building sturdier concrete bridges, widening and compacting it ) which will eventually lead to its paving. But it is going to take time ! There are tiny settlements ( and very expensive isolated lodges ) in the Big Forest but one should carry a few days worth of food. I found the experience to be pretty amazing and I saw a lot of wildlife, including a bunch of boas crossing the track when it was at its quietest :innocent: Lethem is a nice little town. Guyana is very much under pressure these days, with the nutcase next door threatening to invade. Crossing into Brazil is a breeze. The road down to Boa Vista is a proper ( but quiet ) highway. Further south I'd recommend to use BR 432 as far as Novo Paraiso. It is a 220 km scenic stretch, paved almost all the way. You'll skirt from up close the last of the low mountains/inselbergs of the Guiana Shield. Further south you'll cross the beautiful and wild Waimiri-Atroari Indian Reserve. I wasn't sure they'd let me go on the bicycle ( it is 130 km long, and you can't stay overnight ) but they did. I got to the other side in the afternoon and stayed at the Petrobras gas station. Then the terrain gets very hilly as far as Manaus, with still large forested patches, which make the route very pleasant. I spent a few days around Presidente Figueiredo, at a small benab/campsite run by a nice family. The area has lots of ( small ) waterfalls deep in the jungle. Manaus is interesting in its own right and it feels good to relax here. It started raining here a couple of weeks ago. I am wondering what to do next. BR 319 or slow boat down to Porto Velho ? In the dry season I wouldn't have thought twice and would have gone for the road. But now I have doubts. I should be talking shortly with Brazilians who have just driven it. Everyone seems to be willing to talk about it without knowing it and I need first hand recent information to make a decision. Merry Christmas to all. Levelo. |
South from Manaus
Hi levelo,
It's been two weeks since your last post, so you are either taking a long break in Manaus or you have moved forward. Sorry for the long stretch without a reply. I was traveling in South America for 5 months; the wheels started rolling in central Peru on July 23rd and I finished the ride in late December. I didn't check this forum the whole time. Grant Johnson, forgive me :( Yes, I rode BR 319 in mid-August. That is the statistically driest period of the dry season in that part of the Amazon according to the annual weather websites I reviewed. I traveled from south to north and encountered an hour or two of rain the first day and there was rain ahead of us the second day. Not too light, not too heavy. By the afternoon of the first day, I was near Tapaua, about halfway from Porto Velho to Manaus where I met a Brazilian who had ridden BR 319 five times. We met where trucks lined up together waiting for a road crew to grade the road and make getting through a section of mud easier. At this point, the red clay mud stuck to my front tire, got jammed under the fender and the wheel would not turn until the fender was removed. With mud flying everywhere I rode on with a smile on my face. We waited for some time for the road crew and decided to take on the next muddy stretch. I'll never know if the road was graded or not. There were about a dozen times when the rear tire of my motorcycle started to slide out from under me. I managed to recover each time. =) Motorcycle tires are considerably wider than a bicycle and it was tough going in what is supposed to be the height of dry season. Changes in annual weather patterns may be caused by global warming. Dunno. Bottom line: Some sections of BR 319 are paved, but the vast majority of BR 319 is gravel or dirt...with lots of mud when it rains, even a little bit. Unless it means something special to you to ride BR 319, I recommend taking the ferry from Manaus to Porto Velho, if you are on a bicycle or a motorcycle. If you have the right tires and mud skills, then riding a motorcycle is an option...but it's not a walk in the park. BOLIVIA In 2013 I rode 2.5 hours north of La Paz on Route 3 to roll down the famous North Yungas Road (a.k.a. The Death Road of Bolivia.) There is a modern highway at least that far. I have no idea if the road falls apart further north. Know that the Google Maps car has only gone a few miles north of Coroico and hasn't captured any of the roads south of the Brazil/Bolivia frontier. Hmm, that might tell you the roads are bad or Google decided there isn't enough traffic to warrant sending a Google Maps car into northern Bolivia. PS: I was wondering if you would have issues getting permission to ride through Waimiri-Atroari. I knew a guy who rode from Boa Vista to Manaus in 2012 and he mentioned later the restrictions. Glad it worked out for you. |
Hi Peter, Hi everyone.
Thanks for posting. Up-to-date information on BR 319 is pretty sketchy, and it's always nice to read a firsthand account of someone who's actually ridden it. Well done ! I did take a very long break in and around Manaus. I was beat after riding 2,300 kms since Cayenne, with just a few days off the bicycle here and there, plus I really enjoyed the town :thumbup1: I took the boat up the Rio Madeira as far as Humaita, then I rode to Porto Velho ( that's where I am ). It would have meant something special to ride that damn track for sure, but I also knew that the probability of not being able to ride all the way was very, very high, even though I have the right gear and I think the necessary experience for this kind of challenge. It's been ridden on pushbikes, but as fas as I know always in the dry season. Cycling it means a minimum of 10 days if everything goes well, considerably longer if it doesn't. I enjoyed the boat ride a lot, as it gives you a sense of the magnitude of the Big Forest. Plus the pace is as slow as when I'm riding :innocent: I still don't know which route I am going to pick to make it down to the Pantanal region. I have to decide here. The easiest and shortest option is to stay in Brazil all the way. A good paved highway, big towns on the way ( Vilhena, Cuiaba, Campo Grande ), but I fear this might be a little boring, with no natural areas and plenty of soy and cattle farms, plus a fair amount of truck traffic. The Bolivian option ( crossing at Guayaramerin, then Rurrenabaque, Trinidad, Santa Cruz ) is longer but it looks more promising with more forest and less people/development. Only the first 500 kms are not paved, and it has me thinking twice about going for it. Levelo. |
Quote:
If the road turns out to be reasonable enough to ride, get off the bus. :cool4: |
Hey Levelo,
Keen to follow your trip and hear about the route you choose. You mentioned the Pantanal as one of your long-range destinations. If you travel through Bolivia then I believe you will have no choice but to travel along the southern edge of the wetlands. I visited the southwest wetlands and stayed at the Pantanal Jungle Lodge in Passo do Lontra. If seeing a jaguar is a big goal for you, I have been told you stand a better chance of seeing one in the northern section of the Pantanal. My guide said he worked in the north for a few years but didn't that the guides put out food for the jaguars and make the tourists happy. North, south, or east, you are bound to see tons of wildlife in the Pantanal. I don't know if there are any self-guided tour options. I booked through an agency and got a good price for a dorm room, meals, truck tour, and river tours, plus other activities like floating in the river and piranha fishing (yes, in the same river.) I skipped the horseback riding option... Looking forward to your update. |
The Pantanal is not a budget destination no matter how you do it. I rode the northern and southern roads and had no trouble finding places to stay, although it was obvious people working the lodges weren't set up for walk-ins and didn't really know what to do with me.
Again, this was not cheap, and I probably could have saved money and seen a lot more had I organized via tour guides. A friend who went with kids (and a guided tour) saw multiple jaguars, along with other stuff that I missed out on. As far as I remember, you can access either north or south ends of the road crossing the border from Bolivia. I have seen maps which show the roads connecting within the park, but barring major miracle that will probably never happen (and it's a long way around). I was there during dry season, but it was obvious that those roads would turn treacherous with even a little bit of rainfall. |
Thanks for your input Peter & Markharf.
I'm in Guajara-Mirim, on the Rio Mamoré. Bolivia is across the muddy river :cool4: A good friend of mine who's good with satellite stuff assured me that most of the Guayaramerin-Rurrenabaque road has just been paved, so I decided to give it a go. It hasn't been raining an awful lot, but when it does it's no joke. Well, at least it washes the sweat away :thumbup1: Saw lots of dead, flattened snakes on the road from Porto Velho, including an anaconda and a baby anteater... Brazilians are on holidays and there are quite a few motorbikers on the road. In a few weeks I hope I can cross back into Brazil at Corumba, and organize my stay in the Southern Pantanal from there, most likely through an agency. If you have more leads & tips send them my way. Levelo. |
The Pantanal is not a budget destination? That depends on your budget. =)
I had a great experience for roughly $115 per day. The booking was made at the last minute. Not sure if the price was discounted to sell. 03 overnights at Pantanal Jungle Lodge in shared dorm; 03 breakfast, 03 lunch, 03 dinner; horseback ride, night motor boat tour, motor boat tour, paddle canoe tour, piranha fishing, safari on the park road with nature walking, air-tube / swimming tour; English Speaking guide in Pantanal Eco Adventures Travel BUZINHANI E BUZINHANI LTDA - ME - CNPJ: 07.533.294/0001-66 Rua Apiacas, 313 - Vila Rica Campo Grande - MS - CEP: 79022-250 Telefone: (67) 3356-4138 Website: www.ecoadventures.com.br - E-mail: contato@ecoadventures.com.br Without a guide and a boat, you'll see some wildlife on the road or if you can find the places to walk/hike. The tours I was on delivered a lot of wildlife and info about what we were seeing. |
Yes, as I said: "...this was not cheap, and I probably could have saved money and seen a lot more had I organized via tour guides."
My budget (14 years ago) was less than $100/day including fuel, food, lodging, even beer. I spent more than this in the Pantanal (as I did on my Antarctic tour and a couple of other places). Your mileage, on the other hand, may vary. |
I'm a shoestring traveler, my budget is about $25/day.
That means a lot of free/wild camping and cheap hotels whenever I have to or feel the need :helpsmilie: But I understand the fact that to be able to go deep in the jungle one needs guidance and has to pay for it, so I splurge once in a while. Just like I did when I was crossing Africa and I wanted to see game in some of the National Parks. In Manaus I booked myself on a 4 day tour : 2 nights at a lodge and 1 at a camp in the forest, all meals included and guides at our disposal. A lot of time was spent on the river on a motorboat. I paid $320, which I think is really fair, considering the overall good quality of the service. This morning I loaded the bicycle on a small passenger boat and entered Bolivia. I have no idea how one would do it with a heavy motorbike. Guayaramerin is a busy town. Immigration was easy at both ends ( French passport ). I was given 90 days. They need 2 photocopies of your passport, which you can do at a small shop across their tiny office. Money changers have officially set up shop right at the landing and their rates are very good ( BOB 7.30 for USD 1 ). I asked the cab drivers about the road to Riberalta/Rurrenabaque. It's not completely paved but it should be OK. L. |
Hello,
Riberalta to Rurrenabaque is paved all the way ( minus the last 5 kms out of Rib. and into Rurr. ). The tarmac is brand new, courtesy of the Chinese company that's been busy pouring it. It is still a very, very quiet road though, sometimes less than a truck/car per hour :) People are waiting for a bridge to be built on the Mamore River so that visitors/freight from Brazil can come into the country seamlessly. I slept in small comunidades every night, no problem at all. Saw caimans, jabirus and tons of capybaras the last couple of days. Lots of young gringos descending from the Andes in Rurrenabaque but the vibes are good. Levelo. |
Thanks for the update on road improvements through north-western Bolivia. Many riders travel to La Paz and noddle around central Bolivia, then travel south to the Salar de Uyuni. Perhaps even more travelers will visit the Madidi National Park knowing the roads are less challenging.
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Hi everyone,
Here are further updates on the roads in Eastern Bolivia. - Rurrenabaque to Trinidad all paved save for a 10 km stretch around Puerto Ganadero where one takes the barge across Rio Mamoré. Note that I ferried during a very heavy downpour and that the bank on the Trinidad side of the river is steep, muddy and slippery : the heavy truck that was on the barge with me couldn't make it up, hence preventing all other vehicles from either embarking or disembarking :) - Trinidad to San Ramon ( 180 kms short of Santa Cruz ) also all paved. - The Chiquitania route through San Xavier, Concepcion, San Ignacio to San Rafael is also paved. A great hilly route with nice villages and very, very little traffic. - San Rafael to San José de Chiquitos is 130 kms, only the first 40 are paved, the rest is dirt but several contractors are busy improving/paving it so it's only a matter of time before it's done. In the meantime it is an impossibly dusty stretch. - San José to Corumba all paved. Chochis is a great place to unwind for a few days ( it's about 100 kms south of San José ) with a great location at the foot of a tall cliff, great short hikes, waterfalls and a beautiful sanctuary. Aguas Calientes, another 70 kms further southeast, is also a nice place with a hot lagoon and a great campsite. Immigration is straightforward on both sides but the line of people waiting was already long when I showed up before 8 a.m on the Bolivian side. From Corumba I took the 120 km dirt track across the southern Pantanal called Estrada do Parque. The heat was massive ( late February ) and the mosquitoes made my life miserable. I checked a couple of fazendas/lodges along the way, including the Jungle Lodge in Passo do Lontra, but the prices have gone up and I ended up being priced out ( it is around $150/day all inclusive with guided tours ). No big deal, I found a couple of cheaper hotels local fishermen use and I was able to see a lot of wildlife from the track :) I was also singled out and grilled by the Brazilian Drug Border Patrol while on that road and these guys were pretty unfriendly ( I suppose it's their job ). As if an overloaded sweaty cyclist would dare to carry the white stuff across these bug infested marshes :) Happy trails. L. |
Hi Levelo,
Welcome to Brazil! Sorry to hear the anti-narcotic patrol was hard on you. The area around borders are different than once you get into a country. Traffic to and from Bolivia can be tricky. Some non-Peruvian riders with Peruvian-plated motorcycles have been turned back when trying to enter Bolivia. Why? A lot of stolen motorcycles get spirited into Bolivia. I saw a police compound filled with motorcycles in Cobija, Bolivia (across the river from Brasileia, Brazil.) No doubt the bikes had been stolen... It is not clear to me why the prices you were quoted for the Jungle Lodge were higher. I used a booking agent and paid ~$107 (USD) per night for three nights, with meals and daily tours. Perhaps I was there in the low season? Mid-October. Glad you got to see wildlife all the same. The bugs get bad anywhere near wetlands. I was riding into dusk when headed to the Pantanal and thought it was starting to rain because I was hearing pops and snaps on my helmet. It turns out the insects come out in mass as the sun gets near the horizon. I had to stop after a while to clear my face shield because I could see through the bug splatter combined with the headlights of oncoming cars. Are you headed south? If yes, enjoy a visit to a cave in Bonito. Consider taking a swimming float down one of the super clear streams. It's like being in an aquarium. If you head east, you'll pass through lots of farmlands. I saw huge industrial plants that I assume are turning grain into ethanol. You already traveled in the northwest of Brazil. The good times will continue. The people are arguably the friendliest and most laid-back in South America. You will find lots of buffet-style dining in Brazil. Usually, you pay by the weight of the food selected. In Brazil, I stayed in my share of budget places and a few mid-priced hotels. Breakfast is almost always included and where the rate is higher, the breakfast can be off the charts. Brazilians like to eat cake for breakfast, so they put out several kinds. If you don't see eggs set out, then ask. It's common to see free coffee in gas stations. Have fun! |
Hi Peter,
When ( what year ) were you in the Pantanal ? I have just left Bonito. I spent a few days there. Nice, relaxing little town, and some of the rivers are amazing indeed ! I also enjoyed the relatively mountainous terrain, something I haven't had much of since I started from French Guiana 4 months ago. I am heading south to Asuncion, Paraguay, then east to Iguazu and back to the very south of Brazil ( Parana, Santa Catarina and Rio Grande do Sul ). It is still very hot and humid, with thunderstorms most days. On a regular day I drink 6 to 8 liters of water, and sometimes even more ! When I stay in hotels that provide breakfasts ( it is rare for me ) I usually miss them since I hit the road before dawn. I do enjoy the free coffee in the main gas stations, though :D There are lots of folks on motorbikes in Brazil, especially on the weekends when groups from the big cities get together and ride. People traveling by bicycle, on the other hand, are a rarity. L. |
Hi Levelo,
I visited the Pantanal in October 2023. In truth, my total wetlands experience was riding through swarms of bugs as sunset approached and a few days at the Jungle Lodge. Leaving in the late morning, I arrived in Bonito before sunset. Probably a lot faster than bicycle travel. I crossed Paraguay only stopping to try to buy tires at China Shopping (they don't sell tires) and to sleep one night halfway to Asunción. The visit to Paraguay was sadly a checkbox event. It was the only country in South America that I hadn’t ridden or stepped foot into. Entering from Brazil, I crossed* Paraguay in two days and stayed two nights in Asunción. I love to go to contemporary art museums, which are in short supply in Asunción. The historic sites and museums didn't draw me in, as well as the available cathedrals. Saw the Cerro Lambaré monument, took pictures of the wild and crazy World Trade Building, and had dinner at an eat-meat until-you-burst restaurant.*In fact, I didn't stuff myself.* Sounds like you won't be riding the Paraguayan Chaco. It is said to be extremely hot and thinly populated. I met a French rider in Clorinda, Argentina, just south of Asunción, who had been riding the Chaco and turned back because it was unbearably hot. Iguazú Falls is amazing. If you can only visit one side, I recommend the Argentine. |
Hi Peter & everyone,
Thanks for your tips. I'm in Asuncion. It's been a very warm and hilly ride since Juan Pedro. The capital city is currently baking in 41°C heat. I camped a few times along the way but it's difficult to fall asleep with temperatures hardly dropping at night :( Rural hotels/hospedajes have been a blessing. They're cheap, ubiquitous and always have AC. To get to the Falls I'll try to use the backroads where available. I'm planning to visit both sides. Any nice route you'd recommend through southern Brazil ( Parana, Santa Catarina, and Rio Grande do Sul as far as the Uruguayan border ) ? Looks like I can either hug the coast down or ride inland through the Serra do Mar. Levelo. |
Levelo,
41°C -- WOW! You could cook an egg on the tarmac. :clap: I was on a schedule to meet my wife in Buenos Aires for Christmas, so my ride through southern Brazil in 2012 was a blur. Nothing special to report after hanging out with a motorcycle club in Florianópolis. bier Given you are going to Iguazú and are headed south from there, I have a strong recommendation. Go to Saltos del Moconá! Moconá (Yucumã on the Brazilian side) is the world's longest vertical waterfall. Between 2-3 km wide. https://maps.app.goo.gl/svNSjCerdfdwpY737 On the Argentine side, there is a tour service that will take you down the river on a Zodiac (inflatable boat.) From studying Google Maps and researching the area, approaching the falls from the Brazilian side appears to mean hiking through a park. We decided to get there would be easier on the Argentine side and rented a car in Puerto Iguazú, AR (a 4-5 hour drive.) I don't know if there is a boat tour available on the Brazilian side or if there are any services. https://es.wikipedia.org/wiki/Saltos_del_Mocon%C3%A1 The rainfall needs to be considered. If you are in the rainy season, the water below the falls rises and there is very little or no waterfall. =( By late April there could be a lot of rain or only some. I suggest checking with the Argentina tourist office or perhaps a hotel near Moconá to learn the height of the waterfall. Brazilian friends of mine rode there in October 2023 and there from Curitiba, Brazil, and there were zero waterfalls. I remember the day they left for the trip, it was raining hard. We went to Moconá Falls in December 2018 after visiting Iguazú. There were falls at that time of year... https://weatherspark.com/y/29626/Ave...20Chapec%C3%B3 (Sorry for the slow reply.) |
Ola Peter & everyone,
I'm on the coast in Imbituba, 100 kms south of Florianopolis. I've been lent a summer house for as long as I want, and it feels good to be relaxing here :thumbup1: The Falls were great. To make it to the coast I first went through the beautiful National Park on the Argentinian side of the river. There is a 50 km dirt track that cuts through the jungle. I crossed back into Brazil at the Comandante Andresitos/Capanema small border post, then pedaled through what I imagined would be the backroads of southern Parana. It turned out be a hellish hilly ride, with lots of traffic and no shoulder most of the time. Southern Brazil has plenty of aggressive drivers, and lots of them thought I was a nuisance in their way. This part of the country is one of the most stressful places I have ever ridden through. Santa Catarina was a bit better, with less soy fields, more forest and cooler air up in the mountains. I'm still undecided as to which route to pick from here to the Uruguayan border. It's either the road along the coast, which I've been told is quiet south of Porto Alegre, or back inland through the more challenging southern part of the Serra Geral in Rio Grande do Sul ( Canion de Itaimbezinho, Canela, Gramado, Nova Petropolis... ). Levelo. |
Hi Levelo, I would recommend the coastal route, go to the BR 101 south of Osorno towards Sao José do Norte. Very quiet. Then take the ferry to Rio Grande and on towards Chui/Chuy the border with Uruguay. By far the most quiet route.
Verstuurd vanaf mijn SM-F415F met Tapatalk |
Hola Marker,
I did just that. This wasn't my prefered route but the massive flooding in Rio Grande do Sul ruled all the other options out. I got trapped in the torrential rains a couple of times, Sao José do Norte and Rio Grande were partly under water but the ferry was still operating the day I crossed ( the level of the laguna rose sharply when I was there ). The coastal route was quiet indeed but still wet and very windy. I crossed into Uruguay at Chuy, then made my way to Montevideo and Colonia where I took the ferry to Buenos Aires. I thoroughly enjoyed riding there. Better roads, less traffic and more considerate drivers. And the cheese rocks ! L. |
Motoviajeros and exchange tips
levlo!
Welcome to Argentina! Food and Drink I found the quality of meat raised considerably over the beef in Brazil. If you are a meat eater, enjoy. If you haven't already discovered it, Argentines love a good Milanesa sandwich, and wine and cheese of course. I bought wine in stores and directly from vineyards. Traveling alone, the problem was finishing a whole bottle by myself... https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Milanesa Money, money, money... If you have crisp USD bills (possibly EUROS) you should be able to get as much as 30% more by trading privately or informally (Blue Dollar, Dólar Blue, Informal Dollar, Unofficial Dollar, Parallel Dollar) over the official bank rate. The rates change daily and have fluctuated greatly in the past few months. To trade privately, ask around, at hotels and stores, if anyone is buying. In tourist areas of some cities, you may encounter cambo guys on the street. In October 2023, I heard cambo guys were chased out of Buenos Aires, but ran into them in Bariloche. Go figure. If you have a credit card issued outside of Argentina you should get somewhere between the bank rate and the informal or private rate. The credit card advantage over the bank rate is supported by an Argentine government "Foreign Tourist Dollar" (also Tourist Dollar, Foreign Tourist Dollar, Dólar Turista.) You can find the daily rates for the above and more here: https://bluedollar.net/ https://bluedollar.net/tourist-dollar-rate/ Lodging Resource Sadly, I learned about this list/map of pousadas after my trip was over. I discovered two by way of recommendations given by friends. I believe some of the pousadas are motorcycle clubhouses. There may be a room with a bed or a space to camp. Amenities such as shower, wifi, and kitchen, surely vary by pousadas. Chances are you will be warmly welcomed by one person or the whole club. Refugios Motoviajeros AR - https://www.google.com/maps/d/viewer...98&usp=sharing I stayed at these pousadas (and wish I had this map above when I was traveling!) La Posta Del Viajero En MotoWhat is your plan now? Will you brave the cold and power through the distance to Tierra del Fuego? |
Hi Peter, Hi everyone,
I flew back " home " from Argentina one month ago. I was just beat and the cost of having my winter gear sent to me was more than the airfare :nono: I will spend the summer here in Europe ( relaxing & making a few bucks ) while the bicycle is stored at a carpenter's workshop in Buenos Aires during my absence. I plan to resume my ride south to and through Patagonia in mid-September or so. Cambio guys were very conspicuous on Florida St. in BA when I was there ! Thanks for your lodging advice and the list/map of posadas. Do you think the hosts would mind a cyclist :innocent: ? Levelo. |
Hola Levelo!
Many adventurers take a break and then return later to continue their journey. Grant & Susan Johnson, the owners of Horizons Unlimited rode around the world, in segments. They would travel for as long as the money lasted, return home to make money, and then pick up where they left off. Riding south in Argentina at this time of year is cold, mixed with snow, and more cold. Wait a few months until the weather becomes hospitable and you have built up cash reserves. I don't enjoy extended travel on a shoestring; to each their own. I was in Buenos Aires in 2023, three weeks before the elections and was told by a friend who works for the Argentine government, that the cambio guys were chased away. It is interesting to note the cambio guys have returned to the streets and goes to show that laws and policies change all the time in South America. Cheers, |
Hola Peter & everyone in the Hubb,
I concur, I also always break my long journeys in various segments of between 12 and 18 months tops. This time I decided to fly home to see my folks, rest and make some cash ( plus I underwent 2 minor but necessary surgeries ). I'm due back in Buenos Aires on September 14th. Will keep you posted. Happy trails, L. |
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