Fulani photodocumentary project across West Africa
 

Hello Friends,

I'm new to the forum and eager to get involved and exchange via this valuable resource!

I'm currently planning a photodocumentary project that will have me travelling across West Africa by motorcycle. A friend and I will be traversing West Africa to share the stories of nomadic Fulani herders. This unique population of herders faces a diminishing frontier for survival, as development and desrtification infringe on their pasture lands. We'll be staying in Fulani camps (my buddy is Fulani himself) and sharing their stories via photo/video/ambient sound. Although this is basically a photography project on motorcycles, rather than a motorcycle trip with photographs, I'm eager to get involved with the HU community and share this adventure.

Please see our website to find out more:

PULAKU | the fulani photo project

We were selected as finalists by the National Geographic Expeditions Council, but in the end, we weren't chosen for funding. However, we've opted to go ahead with the project and fund it by selling printed images. That said, please visit our site spread the word about our little endeavor.

Now, my questions for the Forum:

I have a motorcycle permit from the US (Virginia) and an international driving license, but my friend Guida does not have a driving license because nothing is required to drive a motorcycle here in Benin. Will he encounter problems in other countries?

We'll be travelling in: Benin, Nigeria, Cameroon, Niger, Mali, Togo, Ghana, Ivory Coast, Guinea, Gambia, and Senegal.

Do we need a carnet, or can we just get "laissez-passer" at the borders? We'll most likely be travelling on small bikes: 125cc Yamahas or Bajaj (Indian, assembled in Nigeria and surprisingly tough).

Are there advantages/dissadvantages to buying the bikes and registerring them in Benin/Togo/Ghana/Nigeria?

If we buy insurance in one of these countries, is it valid in all of West Africa?

We both currently live in Benin, so we'll be organizing logistics from this end before we depart.

I'm looking forward to interacting with the HU as we move forward, and thanks in advance for your insights on these issues!

Christoph Herby
Pulaku - the fulani photo project
PULAKU | the fulani photo project

Sounds like a very cool project- good going!!

I had a similar problem re: the drivers license, so I got a fake international one online (looks more realistic than a real one and there are tonnes of companies that do them). I've used it through Canada, US, Europe, Middle East, and Africa and haven't had a problem at all. I get asked for it all the time, so not having one would cause problems I think- at the very least you'd have to budget more $ for bribes.

You'll also want to get insurance since that's also asked for (so I hear- I'm still in Angola going North). You can get one that covers all the ECOWAS countries (Brown card insurance). for Non-Ecowas countries you are supposed to be able to get it at the border or close to it. Check the 'Trip Paperwork' forum on here for more info.

I'd skip the carnet since they are not cheap and from what others have posted/said you can just pay a temp import fee in the countries you are heading to for a lot less than a carnet would cost.

I'll be keeping an eye on your site to hear how things go!

Thanks for the advice, DRad,

Any suggestions where to order the international permit? I see dozens of companies offering them online, but some look like scams and it would be great to get the same one that worked for you.

I need this for my partner in the project, who's a Benin citizen, but I might get one for myself too. As you said, the real International Permit, which I already have, is just a flimsy piece of paper!

Thanks!

Christoph

Howdy!

I got mine from International Drivers License, International Driving Licence. Don't get me wrong- it is a scam(ish). They'll give whatever you need and make it look all proper and everything (holograms over the pics, etc). Everyone who has seen mine says it looks more authentic than the real ones they have. Since an international license is really just a translation in multiple languages of the real license, they aren't really doing anything too bad... But they did translate my Bermudian 150CC scooter license into an unlimited CC motorcycle and car license...

So I certainly can't recommend you do anything like that. I just happen to be a terrible person that in 15 months and 85,000km of travel has only ever used it and it never caused a problem...

Thanks for the info! I googled the international drivers license, but the stuff I found was sketchier than this site. It's at least good to know you've used it and they delivered something professional-looking.

Thanks, and cheers from Benin!

Christoph

Nice portraits you're taking

I have travelled with my buddy from Nouakchott Abou, who is pular so cousin to fulani as I understand it (but he didn't relate much to fula herdsmen and women we met).
My papers were in good order, but his wasn't, so on the odd occasion when a policeman was looking for a cadeau they would harass Abou and I would have to pay.
There was also some confusion as to which WA countries he could visit without a visa. All, he said, but not so.
So be prepared! But have a lovely journey :)

Yeah exactly..... it's my worry that Guida will have more issues travelling around the region than I will. Hopefully a spiffy international license will help.

Thanks for the advice!

Christoph

Hi,
If your companion is a Benin citizen, he will need his passport or ECOWAS card to travel across West Africa, no visa required.

He needs an international driving license but in some countries (Ghana for example) he may be asked to produce his local (Benin) license in addition to the international license, he should be able to get a license in Benin before you guys set out.

Each bike requires a brown card (ECOWAS wide insurance) and a vehicle license.

Carnet? Just get a aissez-passer at each border, again, Ghana has the most paperwork and they check things through, like matching the engine and chassis number on your paper work to what is on the bike, well mostly at the main border points.

On small bikes, you may actually get away at some borders by just riding though after processing your passports, just be prepared for being turned back though.