1990 Suzuki DR 800 rear shock
 

Hi guys,

I've been building a list of things to do on the DR, as you may have guessed from my recent posts.

If it can be done safely, I'm thinking about rebuilding the rear shock. Shouldn't be two hard. I've received some prices for a new custom shock and the start at about $800.00 and I don't want to do that. Besides, just like most of you, I like to try as much as I can, even if I don't get it right first (or second) time.

So I just want to check with you all. I'ld like to lower the rear of the bike just a little more, but I want better traction as well.

So is what I need is a shorter spring with a higher rating?

If I get a spring that is shorter by 1 cm, what would be the theorotical decrease in height unweighted?

Any recommendations on brand/height/spring rate? I weigh 100 kilograms and use the bike over a range of terrains. Ride daily.

What is the best fluid to use? I've heard that fork oil is fine and some have also said that Dextron III Automatic Transmission Fluid works well to. Open to all aideas and advice.

Thanks again everybody.

Look at www.procycle.us
they have heaps of stuff for DR 650's.
Some parts may be transferable between the 650 & 800.
Search their website they also have a "how to" section.
You could also try Jesse at Kientech engineering. He's a DR650 guru & possibly knows enough about the 800 to help you out.

Sent from my GT-S5690 using Tapatalk 2

Hi Shane,


Can you give us the reasons why you want the back end lower ?

Can you back off the preload any more (but not too much) to achieve this within the scope of the stock suspension. Id personally avoid lowering the bike if possible, it will change the geometry and reduce your ground clearance, normally if you lower the rear, you should lower the front end to keep the bike handling the same.

I am not familiar with the DR800 shock, It is quite different to the DR650 unit, but Im guessing that it doesn't have adjustable compression or rebound?

Having both of these will really help to set up the shock to get better traction, especially not having too much compression damping on rough tracks, so trying to re-work the stock shock might not be worth it.

There's lots of shock options out there, but id definitely go with one that has separate compression/rebound adjustments - not a self balanced shock (cheaper Hagon models have a self balanced system)

Id also email Jeff at Procycle, between him and Jesse at Keintech they know a lot about all things DR. Also another suspension Guru to ask might be Rick at Cogent Dynamics, what he doesn't know about shocks isn't worth knowing, however he is a super busy guy.


Good Luck!

Thanks for all the replies guys.

I am hoping to lower the bike as well as get better traction on and off road.

What I have done so far is:

1. Drop the front forks 15 mm in the front triple clamps.

2. Backed off the rear preload. When I first got the bike, it was on full preload and would throw me forward at times.

3. Had the seat sculptured. That gave me maybe 3 cm drop in seta height but more importantly I could actually sit on it for a few hours.

In the long term, I would like to do the following:

1. Progressive rate spring in the front.

2. Perhaps raise the front forks at least 5 mm. The steering is a bit too sharp at times, but its not too bad. I've done plenty of distance with the 15 mm drop to date.

3. I would guess that the rear shock needs rebuilding anyhow. The bike is 24 years old and my guess is it is the original shock, so its a fair guess that any oil would be in poor condition.

4. Lower the bike another 2 cms. This may include improving the rear end by either replacing the shock or rebuilding. I'm told that Wilburs is the best way to go or I could get a custom shock, which starts at AUS$800.00 and goes up from there.

The thing is, I'm not afraid of doing things myself. Just rebuilt the rear caliper, including wipers/dust seals and fluid seals. I'm also keen to save a few dollars whenever I can. The final thing is that I like learning all this stuff.

Anyhow, I'll email Procycle and a few others. We are going to USA over Christmas and so can pick up parts whilst there; they are much cheaper that way.

If you want the bike 2cm lower and you are going to do the custom shock anyway, you can get one made up with a shorter shaft, Wilbers are pretty good. As I mentioned the only problem with lowering it is ground clearance, when you start to push the heavy DR harder on rough tracks you will probably start to bottom it out, so make sure you have a good bash plate.

Im not a big fan of progressive rate springs, I find it better to have a more linear consistent travel without the 'feel' changing at the last part of the compression, but give them a try, some people love them. You can probably find a valve system to drop into your fork (Race Tech Gold Valve Emulator) which will help a lot on rough tracks combined with a stiffer spring and lighter oil, you can then tune the forks to a certain degree with adjustments to the valve spring, oil level and preload.