Whats the Good Oil?
 

Probably I am re-hashing an old thread here (Iapologise for that) but I didn't want to go back through the records of past 13 years to see if it has happened before. I'm just being pedantic here I suppose.....BUT whats the best oil to use in your Suzie? What do you use use; mineral based or synthetic? The handbook for my DR doesn't say anything about the use of synthetic oils nor does it say the engine is best suited for mineral oils. Every dealer ship I've walked into to get oil has synthetic. Why do we believe it is the best because someone says so?

(NOT RELEVANT to a motorcycle but, I found in my 4X4's diesel's over the years that some synthetic oils burn. I change oils in those engines about every 7500 k's but if oil left in, say, to 10K k's, it began to burn but MINIERAL OIL DIDN'T burn at all).

The minimum rating to use according to Suzuki handbook is one that has an API rating of SG or higher (SAE of 10w-40). The API website shows SG as obsolete - meaning its for engines 2001 or older, hence the word 'higher' I suppose. It shows a range of various viscosity types but all those are available in mineral or synthetic. IT DOES say not to use Resource or Energy Conserving oils which I thought may be synthetics (& so how come bike shops are full of synthetics) but it doesnt say that on the API site either - but they are oils related to turbo and/or injected engines. Fair enough.

So what is the best oil to use synthetic or mineral? Does the bloke that you buy oil from know what's the best? I guess it's best not to assume someone knows all about oil 'cause he sells it. I had a chap sell me a NULON brand of mineral oil because it was best suited for my Mitsubishi Challenger. "See it says on the website to use Mineral for it" or words similar, he used. The dealer even said synthetic oil is listed best for the vehicle. WELL IT isn't written in the h/book and it gave grades available in either mineral or synthetic but NOT one word saying specifically best with synthetic. ANYWAY the Nulon container did state on the back ITWAS NOT recommended for turbo diesel engines. When confronted with this and the returned container the back peddling was all the reasons and excuses you could imagine including Nulon website must be wrong (!)

SO what do you think is best for the Suzie - mineral or synthetic. Personally I like the natural element of it all - "oil out of the ground lubricating metals out of the ground", despite they have synthetic additives in the metals to improve tolerances...
Yeah I know...'follow the book & do what the dealer says and you can't go wrong'.

Cheers

Im not going to open a can of worms by telling you what brand of oil to use, I know what works for me, most of the good quality bike oils are perfectly OK, but for breaking in a new engine it is generally acknowledged to use mineral oil to allow the components to bed in with some wear, after thrashing the motor and a couple of oil changes then switch to synthetic to reduce long term wear.

I use synthetic race oil on the DR and change it every 5000 kms or less.

Resource or energy saving oils have friction modifiers in them to improve economy - but these are not suitable for a wet clutch found in most motorcycles as they make your clutch plates slip - once ingrained into the clutch lining its difficult to clean them, often resulting in having to buy a new clutch or do multiple flushes of the oil.

cars and SUV's these days come new from the factory with synthetic oil and long service intervals, my wife has a 2012 Mini Cooper S and I still do interim oil changes every 7-8,000 kms, good as synthetic oil is I still like to change it as often as I can afford, I might be wasting my money, but for me an oil change is cheaper than doing major repairs, YMMV

Hi

I would say a synthetic is the best option as synthetics are designed for the purpose, rather than a mineral oil which starts of as one thing as then is modified to be as close as possible to the requirements. A synthetic should last longer and protect better than a mineral oil, but a mineral oil will often be cheaper, so really it's down to what you want.

Cheers

Tim

Thanks for the replies.....can of worms is right......there is a bucket load of differing opinions about it though :confused1:

oil
 

London to Magadan this year, DR650, I used Motul Synthetic, readily available, and fund it as good as Amsoil. Ran it 8,000 miles.

Hey Greg,
Oil threads can turn into cans of worms but everyone here so far is pretty much on the same page: Synthetic. Once your DR650 is well broken in, at least 7K kms, then I would go to full synthetic.

The good news? I'm on my 3rd DR650 and run with a group where we have 6 DR650 riders in all. All sorts of oils are run by these guys and ALL are doing just fine, both mineral and synthetic. The fact is ... the DR650 is not a super picky motor. Run the correct weight and change it every 3 to 4000 miles and you're good to go.

All that said, all the science now tells us that good synthetic oils DO protect better, especially an Air/Oil cooled motor. My first DR got only mineral oil, it did great but the NSU bolt fell out ... ruined everything. Not the fault of the oil, that much is certain. 32K miles.

2nd DR got mostly Motul Semi-Synthetic and did great. NO oil used.
Sold it in a fit of stupidity. 10,000 miles.

3rd DR has had nothing but Mobil One "high mileage" full synthetic. "high mileage" is for cars with lots of use, but is still a full synthetic. This high mileage version DOES NOT have the deadly "friction modifiers" so is fine on Motorbikes with Wet clutches. NO SLIPPING. Also, any synthetic specifically for motorbikes is fine too ... but is more expensive.

The Mobil One car oil I use is C H E A P (like me!), around $24 for 5 liter jug.

My 2006 DR650 is now up over 56,000 miles (90K kms),uses NO oil, runs strong & smooth. I've also used the Mobil One in my previous V-Strom (90K miles done) and in my current Tiger 1050 (20K miles) and WR250F dirt bike. All good.

If you go with Synthetic car oil, make sure it does NOT use friction modifiers,
make sure it's not listed as "Best fuel economy" or "most Green" or "Most efficient" oil. All that means it's got friction modifiers. Not good.

Many companies make full synthetic oil without the friction modifiers. Traveling out of the country you may not find it ... if so, use Semi synthetic or motorcycle specific synthetic ... like the Motul listed above. (excellent brand but expensive). In some places you have few choices, but do know the DR won't mind. Fresh, clean oil of the right weight is all it really needs!
:Dbier beer

ah the Black Gold....these threads are usually like train wrecks really soon..... :rofl:

so here's my 0.02: synthetic oil does not automatically lubricate better than mineral. SAE and API (and/or JASO) are the important specs. Fully synthetic can, however, keep its good quantities for longer than mineral oil would. This is not an issue, when changing at recommended intervals.

For long winter storage periods, fully synth is not recommended, because it leaves a thinner 'film' of oil on engine internal components, and this could make them corrode easier. Otherwise it won't matter much, if its fully synthetic or not. The other is probably more expensive, though..

If you are doing a long term ride are you going to wait for the RIGHT oil,
man oils have the japanese motorcycle approval rating ,the shell (diesel)oils for
example.?

FWIW I run Shell Rotella T6 Full Synthetic - which is JASO/MA Certified - no issues as yet - I get 5l of ol for the price of 2l o f synthetic motorcycle oil.


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