best way to change front wheel in field?
 

Hi,
what is your way to do this when fixing the front tube on the road without any stand or lift? I just was struggling with front wheel change cause I couldn't find any rock or something to ride onto to lift the front up.

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thanks, nice idea. Got to have one.

Several ways to deal with this. Almost anything can be improvised to hold front wheel off the ground for removal. Big Rock, log, 2x4, metal bar et al. I used to carry an Alu Tri pod leg, no longer as I can always find something that will work.

https://photos.smugmug.com/photos/i-...-fCNBbLQ-L.jpg

BTW, the rear is MUCH harder to deal with.
Are you able to break the bead on your tires? ... and remount after a tube change or repair?

The front tire is usually very easy to break bead and remove tire from rim. The rear can be next to impossible without very good tools and quite a bit of experience doing it.

See Motion Pro bead breaker tools for a good one. I carry a BIG C clamp and even then it's VERY TOUGH to break the bead on my 17" rear tire.

In Mexico or Latin America I typically RIDE the tire FLAT until I find a Llantero
(tire repair shop). For under $5 USD, it's worth it to let the amigos do the job. This way can often DESTROY the tube, but I carry spares and replenish as I use them up. (not always possible, depends where you are)

I NEVER patch a tube on the road. I pull punctured tube out and replace with new, spare tube. If punctured tube is in good condition and repairable, I save it until I find a good Llantero shop and let them do a Vulcanized patch on the tube. They ALWAYS hold. Stick On patches never seem to hold long. (for me)

Some tires are so soft they won't tolerate running flat for too long and may come off the rim. Sometimes using BIG Zip Ties (Attach 4 or 5 of them) to help hold tire onto rim whilst running flat. Go slow, it works! Might be enough to get you to a repair shop.

A front tire flat usually easy to change roadside. Just swap in a NEW tube, save old tube to repair later. Keep moving, make your day's destination in daylight.
bier

Well, as tyre mounting discussion started in the thread, the TireIron BeadBrakR kit from BestRestProducts got us out of trouble a few times with tubed tyre bikes over the years...

TireIron BeadBrakR®
https://bestrestproducts.com/product...beadbrakr-tcm/
https://bestrestproducts.com/shop/be...n-beadbrakr-2/

https://photos.smugmug.com/photos/i-...hS93hHw-XL.jpg

As I am full on back into tubed tyre bikes (KTM-EXC) got another helpful tool for tyre mounting from KauritMoto = Tire Mounting Tool (TMT) http://tiremountingtool.com/tmt/

https://photos.smugmug.com/photos/i-.../i-nvZgJ6H.jpg

***Apparently some cheaper copies around of the Tire Mounting Tool but always great to support the original inventor and manufacturer in my opinion***

That TMT is pretty cool, might have to get me one of those!

As for a stand for getting the wheel off I've always found planet earth does a good job and is conveniently located! I just lay the bike down gently on its side, it's easy and once it's down there is nowhere for it to fall - unlike various other precariously balanced options.

well, I don't usually have problem with breaking the bead on tubed tyres,
relatively easy, even rear. Just did a couple with bare hands. Didn't even had to jump on it :) Tubeless are different story all together but we seldom have to change them in the field. As I posted, quite often have problem with front wheel because forks are sometime not aligned properly when lifted and it's hard to put axle in.

Laying the bike over onto the ground certainly can work, and works OK for getting the wheel OFF the bike. The tricky part comes when you go to remount the wheel onto bike.

Sometimes it can be tough getting wheel spacers in place whilst lining up brake rotor into caliper and then getting axle through. With 2 people it's easier but solo it's pretty hard for me. I imagine with practice one could make it work,
I prefer having the bike propped up. YES ... you have to be careful not to knock bike off stand (I've done it!), but with care, not usually an issue.

Also, if you lay bike over on it's side be sure to make sure your fuel is not Pissing out onto the ground! doh It can drain out through Carb or through fuel cap. You can lose A LOT of fuel in a hurry ... so keep eye out on this!
bier

Are you talking about bicycles or motorcycles here? I guess if you ride a 50cc scooter or maybe a 125cc bike, then the above could be the case ... but I can GUARANTEE you will not be breaking the bead on any 400cc bike and above by hand ... and even with tools it's a challenge.

This especially true with some street biased dual sport rear tires. Very stiff and most have a safety bead like tubeless tires have.

My DR650 and other 650's have safety bead wheels. This means you will see a knurled edge along the bead which tends to hold tight onto bead, making breaking it down hard to do.

Front tires are much easier in my experience and normal tire spoons usually work fine. DO NOT puncture your new tube!
(easy to do if in a hurry! doh )

There is a LOT of technique involved to break a bead, experience counts. I've used 2 or 3 different bead breaking kits. ONLY the Motion Pro one seems to work fairly well ... if you know how! (it ain't that easy!)

On pure dirt bikes running NON DOT knobby type tires, these tire beads tend to break down much easier than street based tires.

My 17" tires are equally difficult as ANY tubeless tire. NO DIFFERENCE. Whether using a 50/50 dual sport tire like a Heidenau, Kenda, Shinko, Mitas or Mefo or a Avon Distanzia, Michelin Anakee or Shinko E705. Tough!

SAFETY BEADS ARE THE REASON ... but the safety beads also allow you to ride
that tire when FLAT ... and it won't come off the rim if you go slow. I've gone over 50 miles riding flat rear.

Getting the forks lined up to accept the axle is not too hard. The forks can MOVE to allow everything to line up. Use a bungee strap to hold handle bar to one side. pick up wheel and put it in position, first inserting brake rotor into caliper. Adjust fork tube and start axle, now slip spacer into place whilst holding
wheel in place. Continue pushing in axle, wiggling a bit. Now install other spacer on opposite side. Gently tap axle to push it through, make sure forks are moved to allow axle to pass through wheel.

With practice this is not too hard. What is hard is breaking the bead on a
rear tire.

bier

well, so you again know better what I can do or not don't you? bier

I just told you I DON"T HAVE PROBLEM with breaking bead on tubed tyres
unless they're really hard one like mitas stoneking etc. Just changed Michelin SG12 XC 140/80-18 and before that tkc80 130/80-17 all by bare hands, didn't use the spoons. Front tyres don't count, piece of cake. But, I have to admit I am rather big and strong guy :cool4: