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I don't know about carbide lamps, but I do like carburetors (and hate the "grab" of my fuel injected bike), happily used truck-rated tube tires on split rims for many years, and often miss the simplicity of patching a punctured tube on my mountain bike (as opposed to messing with little gummy worms which don't stick to my current tubeless tires once they're loaded with liquid sealant). I even miss taking photos with my massive, all-metal, film Nikons...but I long since gave away all my old film, and I'd do the same with those cameras if I found anyone who wanted them.
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Well, this thread developed some legs. Basically, treat the tubeless the same as tubed in terms of tyre pressures. Thanks for all the replies.
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You aren't allowed to do 106 mph, so I'd say the tubed tyres will be more than fine at 70. Those journalists in 1975 mostly survived. The ratings obviously involve a tolerance in addition, you won't find all four go bang the second you hit 106.1. Ever seen a Hayabusa tyre that's done 200 or even race tyres on after the race? Serviceable if you need to pop out for pizza but never going to pass an MOT.
Your risk is legal assuming the car will do 107, which is a PITA. My CL350 insurers don't really seem to care that much about this stuff though, certainly not like the modern bike insurers who'll count E5 98 octane as a performance mod. I was using one of my film cameras (Zorki, the 35mm equivalent of a Ural) on Saturday. Carbs I'm fine with on a Sunday afternoon. Rush hour on a Tuesday I'll take FI. Carbide lamps are probably better that Mr. Honda's LED's :thumbdown: Andy |
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The tubes make tire somewhat stiffer so if you run exactly the same tire to get the same feeling you need +2-3psi. Beware that MotoZ tubed and tubeless tires are different; not only that tubeless have stiffer sidewalls but in 21" front they're designed for wider rims. IIRC 21" tubed requires 1.85" and tubeless 2.15" wide rim good luck. |
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