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With a good clean and re-lube (then a bit of riding and a repeated clean and lube) some of them have been useable for a good while after, the most recent lasted about 5000km after being in a condition many would describe as completely f'd. |
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Another thing that always seem to occure with chains on my bikes is that the chain can dead tight on the upper level and super sloppy on under level. And if I roll the bike 50-100 centimeter forward or backwards it can be fine or even opposite… another reason I usually keep my chains at the more sloppier end of the scale. Is there a logic explanation to this and maybe something to do about this? |
The more worrying thing about having a chain too tight is that it can mess up the bearing or seal for the output shaft (or in a worst-case scenario, the shaft itself), which is a problem in the middle of nowhere, and can be expensive.
Chains don't stretch uniformly, thats why the chain appears "tight" on one "side" compared to another - hence Touring Ted's point "B" on his list ;) |
^^^
Add excessive wear to rollers/sprockets and I had seen chain snap, wrap around front sprocket and punch a hole in crankcase.. I would rather err on loose side. |
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When you set the tension of a chain on the side stand it's meant to replicate the tension of the chain when you're sitting on it. Or close enough. Depending on suspension settings. If you hold a bike up-right (unloaded) the chain will be tighter than it would be on the side stand. If you sit on your bike (feet on pegs) and ask someone to hold you level (or lean against a wall), you want your chain should be taught with just slight free-play. If you can slightly move the chain with your finger then it's not going to hurt your bearings or seals. If it's 'Drum tight' then you need to slacken it off a touch. Running your chain to loose is the of course the safest option if you're unsure about tensions and worried about running it too tight. But it will wear out quickly as it's always being yanked tight when you accelerate and it's also flapping about, which causes premature wear too. |
All good points, the only other thing I can add is if you have a high mileage bike then a loose chain can also cause shifting problems where the bike doesn't want to change gear or finds extra false neutrals, basically being weird.
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We switched the Tango from the original chinese unsealed chain to a DID VX "X-ring" chain, that bike has a whopping 9hp and there hasn't been any noticeable drop in performance ... however the bike feels much much smoother to ride!
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See my detailed article here on How to adjust your Chain I wrote for Cycle Canada magazine in the '80's.
You can pretty much ignore the alignment part, modern bikes are assembled much more accurately than in the "good" old days. Also ignore the chain lube discussion - it's for PRE-O-ring chains! It should answer all your questions. |
If you ride a small engine bike it is a must to keep your chain well lubricated
as a dry chain will reduce your engine power ........... just try it with some old engine oil and you will feel how much better it runs ! ( dont oil your chain in sandy conditions ) I allways take 2 small bottles with me ( best is hotel shampoo bottles ). never replaced a chain in my life ! :scooter: |
Hello all,
have read this week Regina chains have just brought out a maintenance free chain,you will still need correct adjustment but no lube, sounds to good to be true, i live in hope! |
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That's been out for a while, and has it's pro's and con's. See this thread for a major discussion on it when it came out. We live in hope, right? |
thanks for that will have a look.
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It's gimmick |
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