Yeah, probably, or at least in the way it was originally presented which was fit and forget.

Chains have moved on though. Even rubbish ones are better than they used to be. Back in Aug / Sept we rode a couple of circa 1970 vintage Yamahas down to Morocco and back. Back in 1970 we did the same route on the same model bike. The OE chain back then was virtually dragging on the ground when we got back. This time with two ordinary chains (so no O rings) they were only about half worn at the end, even though we had a couple of days of rain which we didn't first time round.

On modern sealed chains O-rings are the primary point of failure and what Regina did by reinforcing non-sealed friction parts while doing nothing to sealed pivots didn't change the outcome. Perhaps result would have been different if they also used diamond coating in sealed pivots and/or better longer lasting O-rings.

It did make me wonder how much of this is down to price, and whether the chains we get are as good as the price point will allow. Not a lot of good producing an everlasting chain if it costs £1000 a time. Maybe it’ll work ok on conveyer belts and the like. Not too many of those sprayed with grit and salt water as they work.

I fail to see how any metal surface can survive without lubrication ........
My last bike Africa twin did over 33.000 miles in two years and the chain had only been adjusted twice ! and still in very good condition . My current bike has 16 ,000 and the same applies ..................... secret ,,,,,,,OIL YOUR CHAIN !:oops2:

I'm not a fan of chain maintenance. I do the chain maintenance when I think about it...not very often!

But my '18 VStrom 1000 has 47000km and so does the chain and sprockets. OEM quality !
90% tarmac, 10% offroad.

EK chain? or DID?

I use DIY oiler and the main advantage is saving me the hassle of lubing the chain after a day of riding. Additionally, I can use engine oil, which I normally carry to top off oil that burnt, so I don't have to carry another lubricant.


I usually turn off auto lubrication before going on a dirt road.

I tried Tuturo chain oiler on a couple of bikes. Motion actuated and adjustable flow are good ideas but I found the nozzle got knocked off in the dirt.

Now I use a small bottle of Muc-Off C3 dry lube every other day or on the road.
Pre-clean dirt with a toothbrush.
Dab onto the brush and apply around the chain.
C3 seems to attract less grit, though it is for pushbikes.
I used to use engine oil, better than nothing, but for a ride of a few weeks a bottle of proper lube will last.

https://adventure-motorcycling.com/w...3/lineo-1.jpeg

I'm surprised it was that much, though bear in mind the lost power to o-ring friction will be fairly constant irrespective of engine power/size. On a bigger bike it won't be noticeable, and in any case more recent X-ring chains supposedly reduce friction even further. To me the case for longevity of a sealed chain is a no-brainer, and in this case external lube doesn't do much beyond stopping it rusting and making sure the seals have some form of lubricant on both sides.

I use EP80/90 Gear oil.
Lift the rear wheel off the ground, engage first gear and with the engine running use the clutch so the wheel turns slowly. Crouching down next to the chain, using my left hand to control the clutch and my right hand holding the oil bottle, I drizzle gear oil onto the inside links whilst the chain is slowly rotating.

Continue to let the engine run so the oil spreads onto and under the rollers.
Ideally leave for a few hours, or after a short ride, raise the rear wheel off the ground again and rag off any excess oil from the side plates and top of the chain. If riding off road or in dusty/sandy conditions I rag off all traces of oil from the rollers. By now a small amount of oil will have penetrated behind the sealing rings inside the bushes and most of the oil on the outside and rollers will have been removed so stopping dust sticking.

I also believe it's a good idea to oil immediately after a ride when the chain has some heat in it. This will enable the oil to thin out and penetrate better.

Motion Pro make an excellent and cheap chain alignment tool. Use it once then with any chain adjustments make equal turns on both adjusters keeping perfect alignment.

If I store a bike for any time, especially in the damp UK winter, I lube as above and rag on a coating of ACF50 then spray the whole chain, especially the side plates with chain wax.

It sounds time consuming but I probably spend no more than ten minutes a week lubing.
The only time I clean a chain is after a trail/enduro ride where it's caked in mud/dust and then I will only use a hose and water. Then dry off and spray wd40/gt85 onto a rag and wipe. Leave overnight to dry then lube.

Obviously all the above is in ideal conditions, i.e. at home. When travelling I carry a small bottle of gear oil and my trusty trail stand. :D

No automatic chain Oiler button to press
Always with a chain driven bike.

Colour me stupid but I don't understand what you're trying to say here?

Hi Chris,
How do you like your rally ?
I have done about 12,000 miles on my rally and its great !
Cars let you out at junctions !
OIL ........... I never wash or clean any chain .but use loads of old engine oil
on them .I carry 2 small shampoo plastic bottles you get in hotels and my chain get a good squirt whenever i stop !

I've only been riding again for the past 5-6 years. I took a 30+ year break during which things reall changed, like a single shock in the rear?? How can that work? So when I came back I had to try everything, the latest and greatest that's how I roll. I learned a lot from all that spray this and that stuff.

Last year I rode around 25k miles and my chain regime was simple. When I got to camp and done for the day I would do a quick walk around the bike just checking things out. At that time I apply a light drizzle of gear oil I carry in an old squeeze Motol chain oil bottle. Done! 25k and never had to adjust the chain.

And when I need more, stop at a sevice station and they'll be glad to give you 8-10 oz of the stuff.