The bent rim thing I hear a lot about but have never seen, so not much idea on the level of damage. The shape of the damage IMHO must be a huge factor, a V shaped dent will be beyond the beads ability to conform long before a wave shape.

TL fittings on motorcycles vary hugely. I would bet most Guzzi's could be run at 50 mph, zero PSI until the tyre melted because the bead is so tight they only come off with the angle grinder. Getting these things to seat the new tyre is equally painful, workshop compressor run until cut-out at 8 bar, then open the tap, take cover and hope the pop is not followed by Italian shrapnel. New Hondas need the bead breaker because they don't lube anything but once correctly fitted can be changed with a side stand or G-clamp. Getting a popped bead back on with a travel compressor is just about possible. On a bent rim I'd start by holding the inflated tube to the outside to stem the leak while it seated.

Lube is critical. Don't start learning about your tyre fit a week into the trip. You need to fix what lazy manufacturers dump on you as part of the prep.

Andy

Lube? What lube? :rofl:

I've usually ended up slapping some washing up liquid, or a 50:50 washing up liquid / water mix on out of desperation as getting some proper lube always seems to be something I'm going to do 'tomorrow'. I know 'they' say it rusts the rims but that's a problem for the future and I'm stuck at the side of the road now. Any recommendations for what I should be using - either by buying or making?

Bar soap. At home run 19p stuff from Wilco's/Walmart over a cheese grater and add warm water to make a gloop, out in the world fish the Imperial leather out of your wash bag.

TBH I doubt washing up liquid does that much harm in the scheme of things, certainly not compared to the salt the Kremlin buy using my taxes in order to rot my bike and make me buy ACF-50 etc.

Andy

What about the tube material itself and eventually chemical reactions?

I really don`t know but shouldn`t the chemical difference between a butyl rubber (e.g. Avon) and a natural rubber tube (e.g. Motoz) be respected when using a sealant?

Talcum is best to keep the tube smooth. Take a bit of talcum (not much needed) in a plastic bag along. After repairing a puncture place the tube in the bag, give it a good shake so it is covered with talcum powder before fitting it in the tyre.


A friend who took part in the Paris Dakar in the 80-ties gave me this tip.

Maybe I have to ask another way.

When you seal a tube by a patch:
Glue and patch have to match chemcial with butyl or with natural rubber to enable sealing through a covalent binding.

When use a sealant inside a tube:
Sealant and tube material have as well to match chemcial for a covalent binding.

So what to use on heavy duty tubes with different materials if you have to repair immediaetly?



(The talcum trick was shown to me by my father when I got my first lesson in puncture repair of my bicycle as a kid. I still use it at for joints and gaskets on my car or the windows/doors of my house too)

Quality patches, such as my favourite, Rema Tip-Top, work with any type of inner tube. It's all about proper prep and procedure.

Talcum powder - absolutely, works great, definitely recommended, although technically it should be "tire/tyre talc" which is better according to the tire manufacturers (who sell it)- but you can easily run out on a big trip. I think that unless you're running silly fast, it's definitely not critical. No talc WILL increase heat, but only marginally. I never bother when on a trip, and have never seen any sign of any problem, and I always inspect tire and tube when I pull them off. Remember a new tube is well talced, and if you don't wash the tube, it will still be there to some extent.

Dish soap vs bar soap - either works, though I find dish soap much slipperier, so I carry a film can of it. Can be refilled anywhere for free - kitchen folk find it very amusing when you come in and ask them to fill the can! :)

I have been using dish soap for over 50 years, and NEVER seen any sign of damage to the rim, whether steel or alloy. I DO make a point of giving the rim a good clean when the tire is off. I suspect if you used a LOT, and had it slopping everywhere, and then left the wheel for years, you would see some corrosion, as yes there is salt in it. But, is that going to be an issue for me on a trip? Hardly.

Spokes and tubeless
 

Suzuki DL 650 XT gives you both.


Spoked wheels
Tubeless tires

Since the spokes do not go inside the rim/tire

With sealant inside.
And repair kit in the luggage.
The risk for problem is much lower

Dish washing fluid, bar soap, shampoo, cooking oil, butter, WD-40 - anything slippery will aid. Most of the time I have either not bothered or not had it available - never ever absoluteley had to use it, though must admit it makes it easier. Then again, my experience is with tubed rims - not tubeless.

I've stopped using talc because it was one more thing to carry and keep my mind on. It can also make a mess of everything in your luggage. I can't say no longer using it has made a differnece that I've noticed.

As for getting the bead to set. Have any of you tried the ratchet strap method? I've never tried it, but from the youtube vids i have seen - it looks like it really does the job. After putting the tyre on the rim and having inflated it, take a rathet strap arround the tyres centerline. Strap it down hard until the bead pops. You may have to bounce the wheel to help it along, or tap the tire with a hammer, or inflate more air into it. Another option I have seen is using a regular strap and using a spanner (or tire iron or screwdriver) and twist the strap tight like using a vice.

I've also seen people using larger C-clamps - but these seem to be cumbersome to bring on a trip.

I've also seen people use lighter fluid, starter gas, etc, inside the wheel and light it. This will quickly expand the air inside long enough for the bead to set (before the gas actually conpresses as carbon monixide takes up less volume than air).

Heating up the tires before attempting to get the bead to set should help a lot. So, if you are in the freezin cold - find a way to cook that tire without destroying it (swosing hot water inside and then laying a hot wet towel on the tire walls comes to mind - though never tried any of it - just thinking on my feet here). I've also heard of people having to ride on wobbly cold tires where the bead has not set, at very high pressure - out of necessity to get themselves out - and then experience the bead popping in place as the rubber heated up from the riding.

I refuse to believe that getting the bead to set on the trail is impossible or even all that difficult - with the right teqhnique and plenty of practice - even with simple tools. I would never ride such a set up except for places where I can call AAA.

As for rims cracking, denting, warping or bending. Rims come in all different qualities, I've done it to cars and bikes alike - and it didn't take much. Even rust and grime have made my rims leak. Another aspect which is not mentioned here. The spokes on opposing sides acts as reverse springs agianst shocks - absorbing trauma to the rim and making for a more comfortable ride. I would not feel comfortable riding without a spare tube, or anything but spoked rims.

As for heavy duty tubes or ultra heavy tubes - you can for the same weight and space bring several regular tubes, at a lower cost. If your main objective is to prevent a blow out with all your air rushing out in an instance - then doing a tubeless conversion even if you only intend to ride with tubes makes sense to me.

My comments:
Wheelie has some great comments and ideas, but - Tubeless is another order of difficulty - in some ways.
Setting the bead trail-side can be impossible at times. DAMHIK. And yes, straps CAN work - but not on a 21, it's too narrow and you can't generate enough force. BTDT.

Lubing the beads on both sides FIRST is a VERY good idea. Lighter fluid etc - who carries enough? Sure not me. Gasoline doesn't work well, tried it.

The ONLY reliable way I know of is with enough air pressure, fast enough. Aha you say - CO2 cartridges - yes, but... you may not have any, or you've used them all up, or you're not using them right (VALVE CORE OUT - the core blocks the FAST flow of CO2 required) or it's just nasty difficult, it's snowing, the tire is cold, etc etc. Get it all lined up and warm and lubed, THEN hit it with a big CO2 cartridge with the core out. It should work. You CAN get LARGE CO2 cartridges, 45 gm instead of 16, and they are much better. Get them from Aquarium stores.

The other option of course is service station air.

Failing all that - put a tube in it. Make sure you have the right kind of tube for your valve placement FIRST, as tubeless valve holes can be off to the side, and then you need a special tube. You can fake it with anything but it won't last long, and don't go fast.

You can always pump a tube up, even with a small bicycle hand pump, just fine. You can also carry a small compressor - but don't even think that they can pop the bead, just not enough power, and not enough volume fast enough.

Re: spare tube - to save volume (and weight) I only take a 19" tube along on my travels. This should fit 21", 19" and 17" tyres. Just to get to the next Gommista :cool4:

Well well well, not seen this pic before. I'd say we saw you as the super hero that day I can tell you. Perfect timing, you stopped for us ten mins after we stopped, produced a tube out of your hat, we were back on the road in less than 40 mins, job done..!! Tube in a tube less rim....

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