Dinged on insurance in Peru
 

Today I was riding from Huaras to Huanuco via the dusty back roads, reaching 4700 meters max elevation. Eight hours into the ride, I'm passing through some small mountain town - there's a Policia Carretera vehicle parked on the road. Cop waves me to stop. I've been stopped 1/2 dozen or more times, no big deal.

Cop wants to see my papers. I hand him my drivers license and vehicle registration - both copies. He wants more papers. I hand him my passport. Then he starts in about insurance.

My spanish ain't all that great, but the gist of the conversation was that since I couldn't provide Peru vehicle insurance, he had to impound my bike. He showed my the relevant passage in his book of vehicle regulations. Fine was $/170 soles if paid in less than 15 days, otherwise double the amount. But the catch was, according to him, I would have to return to Huaras to pay the fine. Of course, I couldn't take my bike, since there wasn't insurance on it and technically it was now impounded. I'd have to figure out other transportation.

After a bit of back and forth, I finally was able to reacquire my passport, along with the other paper. I tried to explain that he should write me the ticket and I'd pay it, along with obtaining insurance the next morning in Huanuco. That wouldn't work for him. I'd have to go back to Huaras, sans bike.

Finally, with dark only 1-1/2 hours away and according to the policia Huanuco is 3 hours away yet, I needed to get moving pronto. So, in English I say "So what can we do to fix this" and his reply was, "Gas money". His partner repeated "gas money". No habla ingles, eh!?

Ok, out came a $/100 sole note - "Gas money" I say, and I was outa there.

I got to Huanuco in a little over 2 hours more, about 1/2 hour after sunset and light about $32 USD.

So, do I buy the insurance?

Sounds like the same copper that extracted some cash out of me at Baranca, only I was `speeding`but he couldn`t exactly prove it to me and we couldn`t sort it out at the police station either. He was very friendly to start with, asking questions about the trip and how much my bike cost etc and then demanded my licence.

I never had insurance for Peru and was never asked for it either.

Update
 

As I suspected, I was simply mugged by the cops.

Several days ago I ran into a Canadian biker who's been working in Peru for several months; he's tried to obtain vehicle insurance (accident/liability) for his motorcycle but hasn't been successful at it. Currently no vehicle insurance, but he shows them his Canadian insurance certificate when asked. Locals have no idea what it means.

Last Sunday I was at a gathering of Peruvian bikers outside Lima. I told them the story, they all laughed about my experience to a common Peruvian situation. They suggested I always make sure to carry small bills. Often a 20 Sole (less than $7) note does it (to resolve the matter with the police), occasionally 40 is required. Just my dumb fault for only having a 100 Sole note in my wallet.

In no way do I endorse paying mordida. In previous situations I've been able to call their bluff and get away relatively quickly. Not this time. I should have done a better job of figuring out the length of ride that day, and not have been caught out that late in the day so far from my destination.

Best thing to do is to get some sort of official looking piece of paper that you can claim is universal coverage from your home country, to flash in such situations. Can't hurt.