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Disk Brakes vs. Drum Brakes
[Sigh]
The girl I'm travelling with (who researches things to death ALSO), have come to the conclusion that the bikes we bought (XT600 1VJs) have the wrong rear brakes, being drums, rather than disks. [this is, btw, in ADDITION to several other things she's found not to be perfect] All the research I've done (and her too), indicates that (sadly) she is right, in that disk brakes are considered more effective than drum brakes, easier to change etc. etc. etc. What I'd really like to hear, is: "That's not true, love. You'll be fine. Drum brakes are perfectly suitable" However - please let me know what ACTUALLY is your opinion and experience. |
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..use the engine to slow you down and don't ride the brakes! You will be just fine, I promise! Don't Worry!!! |
Impasto, do not worry many riders prefer a rear drum brake as do I , I have a drum on my R80gs and when I brought a new crf230 I had the option, and I chose a drum, I have had a few rear disc bikes and found that the pads wear very quickly. BTW I have a R100/7 BMW that as 100k on the clock(90k of them my miles) and it is still on it's original rear shoes.
If you are concerned, replace front pads and rear shoes before you leave and just take a set of front pads as spare.:thumbup1: |
Drums are Fine
Mardi, Drums are Fine! :thumbup1:
DO NOT WORRY so Much....... :eek3: Martyn |
Till just
20 years ago, the world was stopped by drum brakes. Most trucks still have only drum brakes. Etc. I believe even the space shuttle has drum brakes.
My wife's 55W tenere made it all the way through Africa with a drum brake. In the mud it was the disc brake pads in front that wore fast. The drum brake in the rear still has the same brake shoes in as when we bought it. Oh yes, the drum brake also brakes .... Indeed, start with new brake shoes in the back, new pads in front and bring a spare set of pads for the front. Clean front brake after muddy sections. Check the rest of the 1VJ issues, they are far more important! - Cilinder head bolts - Air intake setup - Carb setting GL Auke |
That's not true, love. You'll be fine. Drum brakes are perfectly suitable.
No I mean it. Drum rear brake will be fine. drum and disc, each has it's pros and cons, but neither has a huge advantage over the other. Disc pads are easier to change, but being out in the open calliper pistons can and do seize. Drum brakes need to be adjusted as they wear but that’s not big deal. Adjusting the chain can alter the adjustment depending weather the drum you have is operated by cable or rod. All the rear drum brake bikes I have ridden have had good "feel". They don't suffer in the rain or mud and oil splashed from the chain. Check them over, stay with OEM shoes if they need it, learn how the take the wheel off and on, and adjust the brake correctly. What else has she found that’s not perfect? Steve |
You tell your girls: its perfect for you sweathart, it working allways so much km. :clap:
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Never had any problem with the drum other than that I snapped 2 brake arms (but I guess that has more to do with my rideing than the setup:cool4:
The bike is a 1986 1vj Tenere and as far as I know it was the first time the shoes got changed when I bought the bike 2 years ago and they were still not worn down,but a pice had lifted and broken off one of them.Probably because of the age.I put in the BRC-groved bits that Kedo sell. So far they have worked just fine. No worries,it will do just fine:thumbup1: |
Hi , Just on a slightly different angle to your other responses, it's my view that from a riding point of view, on tarmac, the front brake gives you virtually all of your stopping power. When you brake the weight of the bike/luggage/you/pillion is moved more onto the front wheel giving the front tyre much better traction therefore stopping power. Last year I worked at a local bike training school and for CBT and tests an emergency stop has to be satisfactorily performed, EVERYONE starts by using the back brake too much and locking the back wheel with a subsequent loss of control. In the dry 70% front and 30% back is about right - in the wet it's different very gently 50/50, and for slow control just the back. Your rear drum will be fine - overall you're better off spotting hazards early than relying on brakes wherever possible. Offroad braking techniques are different again - more onus on the back.
Cheers PS If your friend wants some reassurance of the above try doing some emergency stops (in a car park away from hazards) - your front brake is your best allie! Mike |
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We're very nice. :gunsmilie: And thanks everyone, for the advice. Ofcourse, I will print all your answers off and submit it for scrutiny. Then, I deal with the NEXT question she has. One day, we may even get to go somewhere on the bikes. |
Thanks Mike...
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[on a serious note - guys, thanks for your advice and information, its reassuring] |
Better read up a bit on brakes. In some situations scuffing your shoes is rather preferable to scuffing everything starting from your helmet and ending with your bike.
For the rear drums are perfectly OK. |
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And didn't you know..emotionally insensitive men use emoticons sparingly! Farkle explained here... On the serious side... On Road: your front disc brakes are the most important as they provide 75% of your stopping power. Off Road: you will rarely use your front as it will create unnecessary drama. Therefore, your rear disc/drum is very important and free of leaking shock oil. Something I struggled with last year. |
Your website
Impasto,
I'm not much of one for reading endless websites, but that statement you have about "charity" says it all for me and succinctly at that. :offtopic: but who cares: put your website over there on the charity websites and tell them a few home truths!! |
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