![]() |
Fork oil level?
Hi everyone.
Ive spent many hours reading this forum since I bought my XT last Sunday. I have to do the forks on it. It is an 87-mod, but with 89? 3aj-engine, and 95-? XT-E forks. Seems like someone have rebuilt it, using parts from 3 bikes. I got my Clymer-manual, but it doesnt help me with the forks. They dont have drain-screws or air-nozzles? on top, so they have to be newer than 95 I think.. Now they are leaking from the bottom-screw, so I have to do something. Does anyone know the amount of oil to fill? Any other tips? All help will be greatly appreciated Osmund |
If the seals are fine, all you really need is some Loc-tite on the bottom screw, and maybe the little brass washer that acts as a seal (if it's missing).
If your seals are leaking and you have to replace them, just put some Loc-tite on those bottom screws when you put them back together. I'm not sure about the oil level in your forks, however, sorry I can't be more help with that. |
Quote:
|
Thank you very much guys, very good info.
Only thing is I dont have the drain screw. I looked up the different year-models of forks in a online-store that had "exploded drawings", started with 86-mod. First one to match was 95-mod. But that bottom screw, it doesn`t hold someting? I tried tightening it, but it just goes around. And it sounded like something turned with it all the way up. Is it totally messed up maby? Ill go out and look it up one more time now, see if I can get it out. Thanks again:thumbup1: Osmund |
Ive looked at it again.
Seems like I need a special tool with 27mm pipe to put down the fork to loosen/tighten the bolt under it. Do you know if I need the special tool, or do a regular socket with extensions fit down there? |
special tool
if you search in old posts (or if you go through my previos posts) you will find this info, anyway it's easy: 60 cm threaded bar for 27 nuts, four nuts, joined at two sides two by two. You have the special tool. Or you can try with a pneumatic gun, but it's really easy to make it..
|
Looked through your posts, Cyberzar, but I still dont fully "see" your tool.
Might figure it out when I start disassembling them. But I follow the advice and ordered new seals n stuff. Just $113, from Florida, delivered in Norway.. Both cheaper and faster than ordering with the local dealer. Terrible... hehe |
When I built my fork tool, I found a 3/4" Nylock nut that had outer dimensions of approximately 27mm, which is just over 1". I welded that nut on a piece of 1/2" square rod that I had laying around, and welded a short (8" or so) T-handle on the other end. It worked perfectly.
FWIW, the part of the fork that you're using this tool for is essentially a 12-point 27mm socket, inside the fork. So the tool is basically a long rod with a 27mm hex head, to mate up to the 12-point "socket" inside the fork. Or you could think of it as a 27mm, 12-point Allen screw, and you need a 27mm Allen wrench. Hope that helps. |
Excellent!! Got it now. Just a bit slow sometimes.. hehe. Ill make that tool in no-time.. Thanks.
Just have to wait for my parts. Dont know how long it takes from Florida to me. Maby a week or so.. |
While Im at it; do you think it would be a good idea to make some drainholes in my forks?
Just small, threaded holes near the bottom, so I can change the oil a little easier next time? Then put a screw with o-ring in it.. Or is there a reason that theres no drain? ?c? |
Those holes you mention would be a good idea but what about the pressure which builds up when you make a hard brake with the front wheel? will it hold?:confused1:
|
Hmm.. you make a point... maby the tube-walls are too thin to make decent threads. The real drain-screws DO stick out 1cm or so, probably to get more threads, make it stronger..
Think Ill leave it. If I get it right, I probably dont have to do this job again in a couple of years... |
fork
Quote:
did u got the tool (special tool for forks)? THey sell it at jeco, oslo for around NOK 400. |
All times are GMT +1. The time now is 14:42. |