HELP: 3UX XT600e overheating and gearbox issue
 

Hello,


My (beloved and long missed) ’95 3UX XT600 is suffering some overheating and a geabox issues.doh I have been looking around, but could not find an answer, so I’d be really grateful for your advice/knowledge.

a) Riding alone, not loaded and not revving at all, at an average 60-70km/h in low traffic, just a few red lights and open road, and in Swiss summer (not hot), it is a matter of time (10-15kms?) to reach ca. 110ºC (I stopped right before). Should as cars run at 90ºC, 110ºC is very hot and 120ºC is STOP right now?

b) In addition, when I engage 5th gear it starts to sound as “brushing/rubbing” (rozar in Spanish, frotter in French, I do not know in English, sorry). It only happens when accelerating, no matter the speed. If I go downhill and release the gas, no sound, just touch the gas, it starts. So, I’ve just riding on 4th gear. And, ironically (I think, as oil will be more liquid?), when I ride for a while and it warms up, gears are much harder to engage.

Last year I changed oil and filters and added an oil thermometer and an oil plug with a magnet to control temperature and to prevent possible iron fillings to move around in the oil. I just rode it short distances and very gently, but did not try to get it fix just to park it right after for 1 year.

Again, I can feel how it gets hotter in my tights and just have to look at the thermometer to confirm it. The bike doesn’t “want” to be accelerated anyway, just low rev and does not run well as it used to (when it was a pleasure to feel the single tok, tok, tok…). Now it vibrates awkwardly.

I just guess something like “valves adjustment” needed and 5th gear to be replaced, but I lack the knowledge to diagnose at all.:confused1:

Any idea of what all this may be? Thanks a lot in advance.


Esteban

PS: I was just dreaming of getting it back running, so I am just really f**ked now, sorry for the expression, since I just lack the money to fix anything expensive now... :frown:

Hi, I live in Denmark, so we should have about the same temperatures. Yours sound a bit warm, but nothing too serious. I've hit 120c on the interstate running only 100km/h in the summer. Nothing bad will happen. A fellow of mine once had a small-ish car with a oilthermometer (came like that from the factory). It "redlined" at 140c...

I know next to nothing about youre 5th gear, but it certantly sounds like you need to replace it. So on to the heat....

How long since you replaced motoroil, and which do you run? Have you checked that you have the right amount of oil? Running low should make the temperatures climb. I use 10w50 fullsynthetic from www.louis.de i use theire housebrand "Procycle" and change it at 3500-4000km, but looking at the oil I would guess I could go way beyond that, but oil is cheap, a motor is not. Better safe than sorry as they say.

How about valves, how long since last checked? I would check them just to rule them out.

Do you have stock gearing? Smaller front sprocket or bigger rear will make the bike rev more, creating more heat. Even a big rear tire can alter the gearing some. My big ass 17" knobby is actually as big as a 18" stret-tire.

Lastly, how about jetting, is the bike stock and/or have someone fiddled with the carb? Th xt's tend to run rich to cool the bike, but they're not that rich in the idle curcuit, so perhaps an adjustement of youre mixturescrew could help a tad.

You could also have an airleak around the carbs, leaning out the mixture a lot, creating more combustionheat.

It may sound like much, but most of it is quick to test and/or fix.

Good luck.

Hi Jens,

Thanks for your quick reply. I thought that since engine and gearbox share the same oil, a problem in the gearbox could lead to higher oil temperature, but the 5th gear should not be turning at all, so shouldn’t be the cause.

I have had some old cars running very hot (R4 and R5), so I got used to drive them gently to keep them cool, so I do the same with the bike (already last year). Otherwise, I would go much hotter. Anyway, thanks for telling me “take it easy, Esteban, no worries”.:innocent:

As for the sprockets, I just have no idea. I should count them (it is parked in the office now). I got it 2nd hand with lots of modifications; the previous owner rode it to India 14 years ago. But it run just great when I got it (Touring Club tested it and told me: it is in excellent condition! Swiss German guy took good care of it). Just my last year’s fault: I almost run out of oil in the Pyrenees (I had just ruined a chain in Perpignan, stupid me!).

Carb jets, no idea either.

Oil: just changed by Yamaha dealer (damn expensive) this week. I brought it to prepare it for MOT, but I cannot pay those HUGE bills. First and last time. I will have to wait for the other mechanic to come back from holidays… I hope I won’t get mad in the meantime! I actually want to work on it, but I do not have a place (I’d really love to make it into small pieces and look inside and assemble it!)

First off.... Semi-synthetic ONLY or you will have the clutch slipping, gears slipping-jumping around!


And that oil temperature seems just about right!

Your no-acceleration problem could simply be either your carb jetting or it just being dirty!

Also, remove and check the color of your sparkplug.
Replace it with a new one!


Vando beer

New sparkplug, just changed by Yamaha dealer... I took it for a full service for MOT (but had to stop it $$$$$!!! just oil, oil filter and sparkplug).

I will get it, ride normally (no preventive) and see how high it gets (when is it time to stop?). It is not I saw temperature rising and I worried, but the other way around: something going wrong, feeling it hotter and then buying the thermometer.

Muito brigado pelo conselho, Vando...

I call huge BS, sorry to say so...But I do. If you have personal experience, please tell us, would love to hear it.


Fullsynthetic is not more "slippery" its just not degrading as fast as semi. It "keeps" its specs for longer time than semi.

I use only fullsynthetic, have tried 4-5 brands over time, and many more different types of oil (viscocity) none have given me trouble.

I have 93k on mine now, on stock everything motorwise, should count for atleast a little.

Not trying to be an ass, just trying to proove my point.

I used to have 10w30 or 10w40 fully synthetic and I had exactly what I mentioned above.
After changing to semi-synthetic not one single problem after that.

So yes, that's my POV...oh, and I believe the same as the workshop manual? :P

Mine started to run poorer when I changed the oil for a Polo Motorrad. I will check if it was olive oil or rapeseed oil... ;-)

Bacardi, does that mean that ALL fullsyntetic oils are bad for our bikes, or that this one oil you tried, didnt work for youre bike specificly? :D Didnt you order some new clutch stuff some time ago? Maybe youre clutch was just on the egde of being toast anyway :(

Worn clutchplates and many other things can affect the functionality of the clutch itself.

Manuels arent always right, theyre made so that peaople wont sue too much =) As an examble, the manual tells you to run too little chainslack (the chain will be fully stretched before youre suspension is), and also teels you to completely remove the "bleed screw" on top of the oilfilterhousing, to check that oil comes out when you've replaced engine oil (this will make oil PISS out) Instead you just loosen it half a turn, and close it when you see its weeping from the screw.

My manual states: "recommended engine oil classification API service SE, SF, SG type or higher" and then theres a graph to show which viscosity for which temperatures. My 10w50 handles from -10 to 50 degrees celcious in outdor temp = just about whole year. ( I still change to 5w40 in the winter, for peace of mind. the 10w looks realy thick when its freezing)

It also says to not use oils with anti friction modifiers (energy conserving), mine doesnt do that either, and no "bikeoil" will.

A fullsyntetic 10w50 will last longer/lube better over time, than a semisynthetic 10w50, so thats what I use. I also change it before my manual states, again for peace of mind. 50 bucks more in the wallet saved on oil (an extra change a year-ish), does next to nothing if im out in the middle of nowhere with a dead engine. Im closing in on 94.000km so something must be right. :thumbup1:

Oil is a personal choice just like so many other things. So when we disguess it, we should make sure not to misguide each other. Y'all have a nice day now :D

In our bikes is important to use bike oil because of the clutch. I´ve used car oil and soon it became to be hard to change speed.

I use mineral Yamalube 10-40, 32€ 4 liters drum at the Yamaha Dealer.

Xt books/repair manuals?
 

I rode it on a much cooler day and the bike remained in 102º-104º C. Then went to an alpine road (Saleve, in France) and it was certainly cold :freezing:and went down to 98ºC. Not great, but felt it in better condition after some riding (what I found is that brakes definitely need pads/liquid replacement!)

5th gear sounds the same, but rode on 5th for a while on open road. :helpsmilie:

So, I've been looking for XT 600 repair manuals (also in HUBB) and could only find this one in German (Bucheli Reparaturanleitungen für Yamaha XT 600 from 1990) (too hard for me).

Do you know of any other? Haynes or similar? I have the Yamaha manual (in German, 4PT, not 3UX, why?) and downloaded and printed in English (also 4PT). Found this (Clymer Yamaha XT 600 & TT600, 1983-89), so previous to 1995. Is it worth getting it? (Recommendations about any good motorcycle mechanics welcome!)

I´ve a manual in Brasilian Portuguese, it´s original printed in 1999,January but exceds the forum limits for atachments, if you find it usefull I can send it via e-mail.

O brasileiro it´s easy for spanish ;)

Theres just about every manual worth having here: Manual Downloads | Moto Andalucia :D

*EDIT*

As for engine heat, my bike came with an extension on the back part of the front fender, to block water/dirt better.


I've taken the extension of and actually cut about 2cm of the stock fender, both front and back, to make it flow more air onto the cylinder. You wont se a 10 degrees drop in oiltemp becuase of that, but everything counts, and its a cheap easy fix.

Heres a pic from when the bike was stock, with the extension on the fender:

http://peecee.dk/uploads/082011/xtcenterstand.JPG

hy all
 

where i can buy thi s extension?

Not sure, mine ('03) came that way.

Otherwise you can use a rubberflap (dont know the english word for it) from a moped. I've used one simular to this on my dt175 in the winther, this is from a yamaha 4gear moped:

http://media.thg.dk/DAT/pic/m/511181400.JPG

Of course I would like to have it, Pera! Thanks so much, I PM you right now!

Thanks Jens, I actually got the English manual from that site (did I say I come from Andalucia, as Pera?) :D
I've got the vey same fender extension and riding all year round (aka freezing for 6 months with inadequate gear! :mchappy:), I thought it'd be good against (more) salt getting to the engine. I may do it, as you say (very good idea, indeed), but I would prefer to start with solving (if possible) the issue/origin of the overheating.

So, coming back to the books, any other idea. I know a (very little) bit about car engines, but not about motorbikes'. Do you recommend any general book about motorcycle mechanics, good for an XT?

Item number: 280722589724

or google, Clymer workshop manual for Yamaha XT600 and TT600

You might find this of interest, it may not be for you model/year but you will find little difference between the models. Alternatively, keep a look out for a more specific one, as they do come up on a fairly regular basis.

Socks

I rode 80km yesterday, around 15 degrees outside, running with 15/47 sprockets at around 80km/h @ 3500rpm. My oil got up to around 95 degrees.

That doesnt seem far away from yours, I really dont think theres anything wrong with yours.

Have you tried to check the things I mentioned in my first post?

I just ordered it, alongside with the one in German (it should help to refresh my very rusty German). Thx, Socks

Jens,, I have missed the Workshop Manual, it is great. I am going to print it all (my old PC cannot handle it well!). So, it won't be because of lack of guidance. (I think I have the valves' wrench somewhere).

And sorry, I just forgot to check the bike to answer your questions. So, here I come a little late... :innocent:

Rear sprocket (looks like 45 teeth)

http://i.imgur.com/TiMYo.jpg
Front sprocket (?). Cannot see any mark with number of teeth, but it should be the same as stock. I ruined the chain in Southern France and got a chain kit with reference 1051434/5 (according to the bill). Seems to be D.I.D. make (?).

Rear tyre/rim (pls perceive how the current "lube obsession" reaches the tyre following the (Southern) French connection! bad joke about old mafia films... :thumbdown:)

http://i.imgur.com/3IUhD.jpg

http://i.imgur.com/VVQhx.jpg

Front tyre/rim

http://i.imgur.com/CBOOA.jpg

http://i.imgur.com/pUCEH.jpg

Carburetor. Does it look stock?

http://i.imgur.com/507lo.jpg

Jets. No idea, I haven't asked the previous owner "jet" (lives in Zurich). Sorry for soooo bad jokes, I ate a poisoned salad and little blood is reaching my brain b/c lack of fluids (aka creating strong ties of allegiance with toilet).

Thus, the thing is that the bike was running great and now runs poorly. So, after the shock with the dealer, I am getting ready to get hands on it myself. So, I think the first tasks should be:

- Valves adjustment (most probable cause)
- Carburetor cleaning
- Ignition timing

Is that right? I crossfingers not to mess it all!!!!:Dbier:D

Thats a stock carb yes.

You cant adjust the ignition, so thats sorted for ya right there.

The timing can be off, if the camchain skipped a tooth, but thats very very rare. That would be the last thing to check, cause when it seldom happens, valves and such is often destroyed, and the engine would sound very bad, if it even could run.

Have you cheked oillevel yet? You need to check it when its warm.

Hi estebanc,
I don't realy wish to sound critical BUT, be careful on those left hand bends. Why, coz the amount of oil (any) on that rear tyre is just not correct.
I can see that you lean more when taking a right hand bend,and your left lean is not as great, maybe because of the slippage you get when doing so (left).
Of course it could be that you always do a round trip,clockwise.:oops2:

Take care out there

Socks

I joined Swiss Touring Club again. But I could only get an appointment for a “technical control” for next 9th September, so no diagnose by now!doh

Jens, oil was just changed by the Yamaha dealer ($$$:(), so level has to be OK now. As you say, no camshaft slipping, it is not that bad. By the way, I found that a “stromboscopic lamp” (timing lamp) in Louis.de costs 40 € (I wouldn't expect be available that “cheap”). Several years ago I took a course on car mechanics and after reassembling the engine we had to fine tune it again with it. Your ear/feeling works, but that thing is just amazingly far better!

Well, I’m going to order a dynamometric socket wrench (b/c I want to have 1) and feeler gauges and I will check if there are gaskets/rings to replace when I try the valves adjustment. Anything else? I'm convinced that's the reason.

SOCKS, are you meaning I am a BATH or bad rider??? Just because I mentioned the toilet? That’s pretty unfair, man… NOOOO, I’m kidding: I am here to learn, so please feel totally free to point out anything (not that I pick my nose, pls), I won’t feel it as you criticise me, but help me. Thanks for your comments. bier Of course I am not Valentino! I did put all that much lube before parking the bike for a year. Actually, when I said “brakes definitely need replacement” was after a left corner a little too fast (limited skills, you know) touching slightly the rear brake and it felt like nothing but slipping! I thought brake pads were just worn (as Yamaha dealer warned me; new discs for MOT as well, damn expensive!) and probably tyres over inflated (30 y/o borrowed pump and I feel I pushed too much air inside the tubes!). As leaning may more imply good revving, I just don't do it now.

Well, what can I say, you are totally right, I didn’t notice the lube was getting that high, not only the profile. I’ll have to clean the rear tyre. It is not that every time I see oil or wet leafs on a corner I lean as much as I can over them… I enjoy motorcycling, not bobsleigh!!! :mchappy:

No idea about why the 5th gear sounds like brushing when I accelerate, but no noise at all when I release the gas?:helpsmilie:

Don´t you know the clasical book Arias Paz for cars? There is an Arias Paz for bikes. I send it to your e-mail.

PS: I´m going tu upload it to anywebsite, it´s about 160 Mb and I can´t send it via e-mail nor attach to a mesage

Of course I know the one about cars, it is the main classical in Spanish! Sure, please, send me the link! Thank you, Pera!

Valve Adjustment Tool Wanabee???
 

Hi,

I found (among all the unidentifiable array of bolts/nuts/tools/spacers I got alongside with the bike) this tool, which certainly resembles to the valve adjusting tool in the Workshop manual (to my optimistic eyes at least).

http://i.imgur.com/KX66F.jpg

http://i.imgur.com/bOP6C.jpg


Does anyone know it? Is it "same same but different" or does it (would it) work? Any other possible usage (bottle opener already found it by myself)?

Thanks (again)

Esteban

I just use some pliers of some sort to hold the little adjustertap while locking down the nut.

I think that wrench is to tighten the spokes????!!!

As far as the new front and rear disc brake rotors, I've made a thread about this a few months ago.

Jens has bought a front and back rear discs for his XT600E although we went for the ones from S3performance.

I bought my front disc brake rotor for 45USD shipped to my door...
It arrived in less than two weeks.


As far as the rest of the things you posted I just am not in the condition to help out right now.. beer


Vando :innocent:

Thanks, Vando.

May I tell you who much I was asked for the original Yamaha front disc? Put on your helmet on and hold tight the arms of your chair, man: 327 CHF (=290€). dohdohdoh Wow, WTF, that's twisty road! Add the bolts (why, they were not good any more??? I am ignorant, please illustrate me): 32.40 CHF (28.5€). Damn it, they were made with the same titanium used for the latest NASA spaceship! And also rear, bolts and all brake pads, plus labor! I did not dare to ask about valves adjustment, I would have to sell my flesh in the red light district every night!!!

I cannot pay that, I'd rather walk! (as mein Führer on a BMW). It is not just money, it's against my principles!

I call the MOT here: how thick does the disc brake rotor have to be? "We look at the side, if there is nothing written, we call the Yamaha dealer..." Damn it, I found nothing written, should I then call the dealer who told me I had to changed them to pass the MOT?????? In France (where there is no MOT for motorbikes) I eas told they were totally right for local standards, as I also find myself!

Guys, thank you, you and Jens make a great XT experts team! But I won't go for those Aussie discs in here, MOT is really demanding (I know it because of an old Renault 4!). I'll go for something more conventional.

It'd be great to make a list of good suppliers of spares for XTs, don't you think?

Ebay is great for thoose things. You can get a regular EBC disc for less than 100euro. I live in Denmark, so i often shop on the german ebay (.de) Just type in xt 600 bremsscheibe or se if something simular is availible on .co.uk og .com (or what you prefer)

I will do so. The S3Performance were 79 AUD anyway (strong AUD now).


Rode 60 kms yesterday at 65 km/h, outside temperature ca. 28-30ºC and the oil got to 118ºC (it was cooling down when I took the picture). The bike felt very bad.:frown:

http://i.imgur.com/kaCbS.jpg

Good news is that I got a "box" (parking place with door) to work on the bike lent at no cost.:D I wrote today to HUBB Geneva community to see if anyone wants to join to help/teach/learn/get dirty hands... Have to start to shop!

Have you thought to check the temperature reading with a different thermometer? Don't trust the gauge! Find yourself a digital cooking thermometer with a probe for sticking in meat and put it in the oil tank with the engine running once it is good and hot. I wouldn't be at all surprised if it was reading 10-15 degrees over and your engine was just fine.

Alternatively, stick your thermometer in a pan of boiling water and check that it reads 100 degrees. If it is reading more than 2 or 3 degrees over, then you have identified your problem.

You can waste endless hours chasing down problems that don't really exist due to faulty meters.

Regards - Alastair.

Are you running 65km/h in 5th gear? You might be lugging it a bit, try 75km/h instead.

110+ is a bit hot, but youre outsidetemp is also way up there.

Im still not sure if you have checked that theres enough oil, checked carb settings, and modified things for more airflow: Cut front fender, have clean engine and such)

Again, 120ish aint bad, people have drivin all over the world on theese, you might not even have a problem. Fullsynthetic oil can handle 120c easely, and so will youre engine.

If youre still unsure about the whole thing, make an oilchange yourself, change the filter, and the oil straner (stanless filter) on the front of the frame, just where you drain the frameoil. Put a hose over the bleedhole on the oilfiltercover to check oilpressure....

Theres plenty of things to check and/or modify if youre really that worried :) Have fun, and good luck.

Thermometer test: passed with honors.
 

Thanks very much for the idea, Alister.

Compared it with two clinical/pharmacy thermometers (which stop at 43ºC or so and they all marked basically the same.

http://i.imgur.com/cScJ1.jpg

Technically, I do not know, but for me boiling is not only bubbles at the bottom (started at 80ºC, kept on at 90ºC and on), but many coming out to the surface, which happened at 98ºC. Ergo, it seems to working very well. (Looked at Wikipedia and it says: While below the boiling point a liquid evaporates from its surface, at the boiling point vapor bubbles come from the bulk of the liquid).

http://i.imgur.com/tA2W9.jpg

http://i.imgur.com/2gKbr.jpg

http://i.imgur.com/fRAk8.jpg

Thanks again, Jens. Noooo, I ride at 65km/h in 4th gear: 5th gear sounds too bad, as brushing, so I avoid it when possible. Actually, I was riding with fellow HUBB member Bobduro and his wife, who are back of a RTW on two XT660R, and they could tell you I was at the front "riding Miss Daisy", veeeeery quietly as to reach 118ºC.

If I am able to follow all your advice, I'm 100% sure it will run cooler than my fridge, thanks again! :D The thing is not just temperature, it is that is just runs too poorly, bad, no power, vibrations, not my former/loved XT, etc. Temperature is just a symptom.

I got two manuals yesterday and plan to start working soon, when I get the garage available, starting with valves clearance adjustment.

Jens, no plans to come to Central Europe? I have a very comfy sofa bed!!!:welcome:

I just might, next year =)

Cant wait for youre progress, it feels so good to be able to fix youre own machine :)

Well, I am not very disciplined. My girlfriend and I rented two 125cc bikes (she has and Swiss 125cc licence, so she can try both, she is considering big ones and needs a refresh) and we plan to head south tomorrow, maybe Vercors, which is just amazing. So no studying/on-line-shopping/wrenching this weekend! Sorry, bad pupil... but cannot wait to move a little bit.

The XT will take a rest this time.

Glad you checked it out, nice touch with the photos.

Enjoy your weekend!

Alastair

I think you can find it in Switzerland, there is compulsory to wear it.

Front Fender Extension
 

Sorry, elcamino, I missed this. I recently talked about it with Pera (missed also his reply). :blushing:

It is OEM part nr. 3TB-21521-01. You can buy it on line as well: flap front fender yamaha It was in the XTs in Sweden and Norway.

http://i.imgur.com/nWH9o.jpg%3C/a%3E


PS: I've been following your hard panniers, amazing!

Finally working on the XT!
 

Soooo, after a huge delay in getting the spares, I finally started to work on the bike this evening. Here is a pic of the first stage stripping the bike.

Tomorrow I plan the valves adjustment, remounting, testing and so on with other tasks (compression test, etc).

We'll see how many parts I get to break, I'll keep you posted! I've had lots of fun till now, even if nothing broke (fortunately, I cross fingers).bier

Thanks to all of you for all the wise advises.

Esteban

http://i.imgur.com/FIRqf.jpg

Struggling to find TDC and T mark
 

Turned counterclockwise the rotor and seem to find 3 marks (instead of 2?), but no T (as indicated in Clymer and workshop manual)

http://i.imgur.com/NIu6A.jpg

1st mark, which is actually linked to the 2nd markl. They look kind of a large H (or a horizontal T touching the 1st mark!).

http://i.imgur.com/cUakA.jpg

http://i.imgur.com/CnmKL.jpg

3rd mark, with no T to be seen around either.

http://i.imgur.com/A6mci.jpg

So, which mark should be the right one indicating the TDC? (Could not find any free play either!) Your help :helpsmilie: and knowledge, as always, really appreciated being a novice myself (more questions, but checking manuals and online first…:smartass:).

Thanks to all,

Esteban

Theres 2 marks. one is "I-I" and is for the timing, the next is "I" and is the TDC mark.

Remember that theres 2 TDC's for a complete 4-stroke cycle, and you need to set it at the right TDC, otherwise you'll adjust the valves wrong. You need to use TDC right after the intake valves closes. Its the compressionstroke.

hope that makes sence, otherwise take all valvecovers off,a nd spin the engine slowly, you should be able to see whats going on :) Otherwise, youtube is always helpfull.

Jens to the rescue!!!!
 

:wave:

I was thinking: if the engine (may actually?) turn anticlockwise and ignition should take a little before TDC, it should be the 3rd mark... So, why 2 other marks? Maybe when you want to change the ignition time depending on fuel octanage??? Should I already get a chopstick through the spark plug hole?

So... bierTHANKS SO MUCH, Jens! bier(starting to feel the satisfaction of repairing it myself you mentioned; nothing broken (by myself) yet, so feeling good!)

So, intake valves are closed when they get at its highest point; and after that, the next one is the TDC. Right! (info to add to the 1st pic up from Clymer manual).

Rocker arm seemed to have no free play at all. I will re-check it. (I could not find space to insert the gauge).

PS: Sure, youtube! I found this video very useful, from a XR 650. Apparently their "T" mark is horizontal.

Spark plug reading?
 

Spark plug changed less than 500-600 kms ago, is it possible to read anything on it so early? (I did not follow the steps previous to the reading -full throtle, etc-, but will do it next time).:smartass:

http://i.imgur.com/Dh6iW.jpg


http://i.imgur.com/zcThV.jpg

People says that the right colour is "café con leche" (coffe with milk), and your likes more milk than coffe.

I´ve talk my brother that you have no space for the "galga" (sorry I don´t know the English word) adjusting the valves and he said: wow, that bike must run as a Vespino (50cc. bike) and for sure overheats.

http://img145.imageshack.us/img145/8...jias2jifb3.jpg

Hi, the carb has several "circuits" which overlaps each other. Think about the circuits as waterhoses with different diameters, operating at different times.

I've red youre sparkplug, but you dont know which circuit you have been testing. A bike can run lean at idle, or at low rpm (idle circuit) and run rich at full throttle (mainjet) orthe other way around. It could also be spot on in lower and higher rpm's, and be lean/rich at cruice.

So you need to know what you're testing, to diagnose the problem.

You can test the idle curcuit (idle jet) by cruicing around int he first 3-ish gears at low rpm, for a couple of minutes.


You can test the needlesetting at regular cruicespeed, and the mainjet ith WOT.

Before you test, make sure thet bike is fully warmed up, so you get the best possible combustion.

You're plug aint that bad. I've tried to read plugs and compare them to the results of my lambda-guage. Every plugreading was lighter in color than i though they would and shoud be. They were more gray-ish than brown.

So unless you feel it surging, I would leave it alone. My 2003 xt600e came slightly rich in all circuits, mainjets were actually a couple sizes to big for max hp. I think they do that to help it cool better.

To sum it up, dont worry about it. I wouldnt bother doing all the stufff I've done over time, if I could turn back time. Just make sure there are no airleaks and stuff like that, and adjust youre Co screw for strongest idle.

Hi Jens..........I,ve got a 2002 600e and have removed the snorkel and plan on putting a drz 450 muffler on,do you think I need to do anything to the carb?.......or shall I just do some plug checks?

Valve clearance done, but essay pending!
 

Job done. :DThere was some free play in the intake valves, but almost NONE in the exhaust ones, no space at all for the feeler gauge (galga). So, I was rushing to test the bike (I had to pick up my father-in-law in 20 min in the airport!) and... fuel hose went out from the right petcock! No kidding! Hose was very, clamp was gone and I had no wire/tie around, I got freaking mad! So, patience, I cross fingers to try it tomorrow after we go sightseeing. I pray it'll run better!

So, Thanks a lot for the much better colour pics, pera! :thumbup1: Sure, it was running poorly!

Very good explanation, I had only read about wide open throtle, but no low rev for idle. Happy to know about the different circuits, great info (so much to learn, thanks!). I won't touch anything by now, I "may" only lower idle, it runs at ca. 1500 rpm, which IMO looks too quick.

And if valves adjustment went well, I'll try a compression test (I got a gauge at 15€), mainly curiousity! I plug it to the sparkplug hole and try to e-start and read the result, am I right? (Clymer speaks only about kicking for old models, I assume it'll be same to e-start it).

beer:DjeigerHave a nice weekend you all!jeiger:Dbeer

Kenymact: I wouldnt think so no, if it pops a lot in decel, or feels like its surging in the midragen, you probably got work to do. Otherwise I would leave it alone.

Estebangc:

As I recall, you need to give it "full throttle" when youre doing a compressiontest, to get right results. I dont even know what the results should be, so very interested to hear from you.

The, now, loosened exhasutvalves could also help to lower the temps in youre engine.

Good work :)

Engine running cooler... but readjustment to be done soon!
 

Tested bike yesterday! Some slight tapping/knocking, but running certainly better and I’d say some 10-15 ºC cooler. Yuppie!!!! bier And what a pleasure to ride it again! :DBetween 3000 and 3500 rpm was feeling at its best, but after 4000 rpm much more vibration Mainly rode in 4th gear at 75 km/h and also some 5th in the highway at 105 km/h. (5th gear noise is still another issue, but as Pera pointed me out, quite a common problem I should think of at a later stage).

Today got it in the city and tapping was much more obvious and engine got hotter (I rushed a little with a colder engine?). Sure, my (noisy) Airoh helmet really helps to listen to any noise… Similar to this thread, coming from the same area. I was wandering: maybe I should have tightened more the locking nuts?

Anyway, happy at this stage, since I had already planned to re-do the valves adjustment again till I feel it is just perfect (to my clumsy standards!), so I can proceed later to compression test, looking forward to use the gauge (louis.de 15€)! I will keep you posted, sure, all the details in the pipeline, Jens.

http://i.imgur.com/YDFbN.jpg

Ah, I definitely have to work on the brakes, or I’ll kill myself. I really lost confidence in a corner with some gravel when back break said “sorry, abstent”!!! (at least that is how I ride, I could be even worse). So, I plan start with rear and if it works OK, I will keep on with front. Ah, I ordered in a shop nearby this rear brake rotor which to my limited knowledge looks like s**it compared to the OEM Yamaha.

http://i.imgur.com/VI9an.jpg

Esteban

PS: Angled feeler gauges and KEDO valve adjusting tool would make my life much easier, what a pain to adjust the valves in such a tiny space!!!!
PS2: Just getting mad adding photos and hyperlinks!:smartass:

http://i.imgur.com/LgCdu.jpg

White smoke coming out!
 

Is it normal that WHITE FUMES/SMOKE come out of the front of the bike AFTER VALVES CLEARANCE ADJUSTMENT?????:helpsmilie:

First time I adjusted (tried to) got some smoke out, but thought it was because of petrol spilled over the pipes. It lasted quite short. And later rode it quite long with no problem

But this second time much more white smoke came out from the front, like the pipes (but cannot tell) with quite pungent smelling. Started several times and kept on, so stopped it just in case.

Is it normal??? Any thought about what it can be??? (Edit) Solved: WD40 BURNING! :-)

PS: btw, had a hard time adjusting thiner gauge (0,05mm) to go through but not thicker one (0,10mm); same for 0,15 and 0,20. I was happy since I thought I had it perfect for the compression test... :(