![]() |
Help needed for xt 600e
Hey guys,
I have been lurking in the background for some time now and finally decided to get myself a login and become part of the forum. I am after a bit of help with my 91 xt 600e. I put it onto the mechanics for a service and when in for a service they told me cam chain had a rattle, so they replaced it. Since having the cam chain done it now has a hiccup/stutter at about 80-100kms and more so under load ie going up hills. I told the bike shop about this and they took it back in and cleaned Carby out and reset it all and told me it was better. It's not changed a thing. After numerous chats with them they can t tell me what is wrong, which is extremely annoying. Some information in what the problem feels like. It feels like it's running out of fuel but there is plenty of fuel in there. It dosent do it when riding round town only when I build up speed. I have replaced fuel lines, looked at the intake boots for any cracks etc thinking it may have been air related and none of them show signs of wear. New spark plug has been put in. In tank fuel filters have been checked. I am wondering if there is anyone on here who may be able to point me in a direction to possibly solving this problem. Be very much appreciated with any comments anyone has. Thanks Delz |
Ask them if they removed and cleaned the filter inside the carb.
http://www.horizonsunlimited.com/hub...-blocked-78917 |
Like XTROCK says..
That small 'hidden' filter in the carb causes this EXACT problem. You have to remove the float valve needle. It's hidden under it. Remove it..... The bike doesn't need it. It's a headache. |
Quote:
|
Yes. Always have an in-line fuel filter.
Even if you have one in your tank. My XT600E had the exact same problem in Brasil with their fuel (30% ethanol), rotting my pipes and blocking this filter.. |
Quote:
Mezo. |
kind of odd nobody is paying much attention to the fact that the malfunction started right after the cam chain replacement..... ;)
not saying it CANT be the filter, but wouldnt be surprised if these guys missed a tooth in the cam wheel. You could check this using the screw on cap on top, but you have to know what you'r looking at.... |
Hey guys I asked the mechanic if when they cleaned the Carbys out that they checked the filter and he actually couldn't tell me if the mechanic did. So it's making me think that it could be a possibility.
I also asked them could it be a tooth out from when they done the cam chain and he told me that it couldn't be the timing as it would run shit all the time rather than just at speed. I also unscrewed the fuel cap thinking that the breather wasn't working properly leaving the tank to act as a vacuum. This didn't do anything to help. I am not real confident at taking the Carbys apart and checking the filter myself. And as for checking the timing I am not certain on what I would be looking at either. Thanks for all the info very much appreciated. We will get to the end of it all soon with a bit of luck. |
the story about running shit everywhere is not exactly like they say....
if they advanced the cam, engine could start and run ok at low rpm but then run out of puff at higher rpm problem is that on second thought, the top plug might not help you to see if timing is right. With TDC marking showing at the crank peek hole, I am not quite sure there is a distinctive mark that will help you understand if cam is timed ok. maybe other can chime in and say if there's any mark on the cam that can help you with this. the top hole is meant for rocker shaft passage. If i get around to checking what i see in my bike will let you know but don't hold your breath the times i mounted my top end i ensured timing was right with rocker cover off... |
You'll have to take the rocker cover off to check the cam timing.
And yes, one tooth out could cause high rpm running problems. |
Having rebuilt a 43f and a couple of 600e's (a 3tb and 4pt) I would suspect cam timing is out a tooth. When I replace can chains I have , from bitter experience on the 43f , also changed the cam drive 'wheel' as they wear as well especially if a worn chain has been clattering around in there. Also I have found the timing marks on the later bikes can be challenging to see. The only real way to check is as was suggested earlier, to st the engine up at the timing Mark and then pull the cam cover off and see if the 2 dots on the camshaft wheel are perfectly parallel with the top of the head. It just seems like a bit of a coincidence that they changed the cam chain and now you have carb issues. Not saying it can't happen but check that timing set up. Good luck !
Mark 43f kicker Bmw r80 Bonneville |
I thought that would be the case with checking the cam chain. As the bike has only done a couple 100kms since the cam chain was done, i have told the mechanic that it's in their hands and their problem as I never had this problem before cam chain was done. I have done the simple things and had no joy, so I am more edging towards the cam chain being a tooth or so out. It's back into the mechanic on Monday 14th. Let's see what comes back from this visit.
Thanks guys Delz |
Well, if its as you say and the problem definitely only started after they did the work then you should definitely give it back to them. And you should not expect to pay a single penny extra if that is the problem.
For them to say it was the carb is cheeky unless they were so certain that the timing is correct. It's tricky as a mechanic when customers come back to you after a job as there are sooooooo many people who try to rip workshops off with the "it was fine before you touched it routine" When I was working for BMW we had one guy who would bring his bike in to have very minor work done (tyres checked, valet, handlebars adjusted). Very cheap jobs. He'd then come in saying his ABS didn't work anymore and we'd have to work our lunchtime to diagnose it etc. His ABS pump (£1000) was shot and he blamed us for it. Kicking and screaming. Only when I printed him the fault reports of the recorded dates of error codes (before he came to us) did he know his game was over and stormed out.. Loads of similar stories... Anyway, back to the point.. Be 100% sure the bike didn't have the problem first. Sometimes when you do a job on an older bike, you can upset things when you disassemble it. The cam chain might be fine but they've knocked or broken something else. If thats the case then its very difficult to place blame. They should have mentioned it (if they realised).. And on the other hand, a workshop/mechanic shouldn't be at fault when they break a heavily corroded bolt or a previous bodge etc. First though... Have that filter checked. When they removed the tank a lot of muck might have been displaced and now is partially blocking the filter. Your symptoms are very very similar to a blocked carb filter. Enough fuel gets through for low speed running but not enough for higher rpms so the bike stutters. |
Hi Delz. Had the same problem.
What is the color of your spark plug? Go until it hiccup/stutter, pull clutch and kill the engine. Remove spark plug. White: not enough petrol. Black: too much. CHeers |
Hey guys, so the bike has been at the mechanics since Monday and today my husband was in the shop and got speaking to the service manager. It seems to be a problem with the CDI.....I won't be replacing it due to the cost of a new one. Anyone know of anyone breaking a 91 3tb?
|
All times are GMT +1. The time now is 10:34. |