How to torque 14mm cylinder nuts??
 

Hi
Im finally assembling my Tenere again and Ive run into an old familiar problem: on the RHS of the cylinder are 2 size 14 nuts that have to be torqued down but you can only access them with a spanner from the side (ie you cant get a socket onto them) so how does one measure the torque? In the past I gave up and did them by hand, but there must be trick to this?

An easy (hit & miss) way is torque the ones you can reach. Then feel how tight they are with the spanner, then apply a similar force on the awkward ones!

limited access torqueing?
 

hi i believe you have to use crows foot wrench do a google search hope this helps steve

If you add a crows foot of modified spanner to a torque wrench don't forget to work out the new torque figure as the leverage will be longer from where it's calibrated.
I'd do it by feel.

WELD a nut on the end of the stud and take it out!

don't take too long! put some water only on the stud! do it while while the aluminum is hot and it should come off easy.


Aluminum expands a bit more with heat than iron. so cooling the stud will make it "shrink" back to normal fast thus the aluminum will still be expanded.

Here is the trick:
Just use a short crown spanner and fit the torque wrench on the other end in a 90 degrees angle with an Allen socket.

Extracted from the net:
“---Adapters can be used at the drive end of a torque wrench. That is, should one need to torque a tubing fitting or a fastener that cannot be accessed directly on line with its axis. A crows-foot on a torque wrench is an example. Adapters can be fabricated from old tools or any of the cheap tools.
Adapters can extend along the wrench’s centerline or extend out at 90 degrees from the drive end. Any angle between 0 and 90 degrees is possible. At angles other than 90 degrees, dimensions of the critical parts on the wrench as well as some simple math are required. Adapters extending at 90 degrees from the drive end induce no error in the scale reading—“

sorry... by torque down do you mean taking them off?
the example I mentioned was to take them out....
:oops2:


Vando

Thanks for the input everyone- seems like a fairly complicated solution involving a bit of maths... hmmmm I think Ill do it by hand again and hope for the best. Id imagine the equation necessary would include the angle and exact distance between nut and axis of wrench... ye sod it- Ill do it by feel!

Heres the actual maths
 

Heres the actual math for those who may one day feel motivated to do it right: Torque Wrench Adapter Extended Calculation - Engineers Edge

Jim:
Maybe I wasn’t clear, At 90º degrees angles, NO MATHEMATICS ARE REQUIRED.
It’s very easy, I do it in that way all time.
Saludos.

I really would not worry about this. Using a torque wrench to accurately measure torque has very little to do with the tightening force which is what you really want to measure. Most torque settings are given for clean dry threads. I usually assemble with graphite or molybdenum disulphide grease so the amount of torque required to get the right amount of tightness is considerably reduced. IF you have all good threads then the testing of another for feel and applying a similar pull as previously suggested is good.

Think of this, we have all had to undo something that has fought all the way, such as a nut on some rusty thread or a spark plug that has been left to set. If you were to accurately torque these things then they would not be done up at all. Clean threads have some resistance under load, well lubricated much less. Torque settings are often near to being irrelevant.

Hmmm - if only the angle matters then, for the sake of argument, at 90deg using a 40mm extention vs a 2000mm one there would be no difference in force applied?