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Thats what I thought!
As for OP, change you oil and go for a decent ride on the thing. Ride it for an hour, that should sort it out. |
Bevels too.
Don't forget also that with a shaft drive bike the bevel gears' lubrication in the final drive needs to warm up as well as engine/gearbox oil. Leaving a shaftie ticking over to warm up the engine oil will leave the rider driving off with a cold final drive box. I understand also, that engines wear more if left ticking over than if under a load. I don't know exactly why but accept the advice of an experienced mechanic. Lindsay.
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I've read claims from various experts (whomever they are) that the best way to warm up an engine is under a modest load, and that lengthy idling is not good for small engines. :confused1:
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It's the law, don't you know??
It's an interesting discussion and all the folklore I have listened to has also said to ride/drive off more or less immediately after starting the engine but under low loading, all in sympathy with the engine = low revs on the throttle for a mile or 3.
Apart from that, I understand that in Germany it has been illegal for some years now to warm up an engine while stationary because of "Green" legislation. My guess is this will still be the case, but have such rules spread to any other EU countries, or further afield? |
No law on that in the UK - yet - but give 'em time ...
As with most responses above, I have always believed that the best procedure with a bike or a car is to let it idle until it will idle smoothly (and with a well-tuned engine that will be almost immediately) and then ride/drive off gently. Use modest revs and throttle loadings until the engine is fully warm, and then cane the t*ts off it. :) On my usual journeys, I wait until I have covered about 1.5 - 2 miles befiore I use the throttle in anger. |
A simple rule of thumb:
If the cylinder walls are warm to the touch then the oil definitely is. On a water cooled bike, warm is when the water temp guage starts to move or register if it's digital. Id always give an engine 1-2 mins before I ride off on it. Just to let the oil get warm and moving through the pump, jets and over the cams before any serious load is put on the engine. It's an old and tired subject, but the bottom line is that an engine isn't designed to be loaded or worked hard when stone cold. |
And that's exactly where the argument starts Ted, people debate over whether to 'let it tick over to warm up', without actually defining what people mean by that. 1-2 minutes (i.e helmet and gloves on), or 15 minutes (i.e. significantly above normal operating temperature). Coating the engine with oil from cold to prevent premature wear is one thing (remember the days of Slick 50?), running for extended lengths at time at low oil pressure and high temperature is quite another
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Mezo. |
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I would warm the bike up good & proper then run the ***** over. Man i hate this PC bullshit. Mezo. |
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like i said the CORSE replacements fix the problems. Mezo. |
So the issue is with the bolts, and how you warm up the bike is just Ducati's excuse?
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Of course, this has had a much bigger impact to date in the design of gazoline powered engines - catalytic converters, advanced electronics etc etc. While still off topic of the oil condensation, I don't think there are "green police" just yet, but peer group pressure has a way of bringing these things into place; for instance, German society is very law abiding and it has a culture of obeying rules and regulations that would be alien to Anglo-Saxons. Probably best if a German national, or two, comes in at this point. Not picking on you guys!! It's just that your national government took a lead within the EU in this type of legislation quite a few years ago. Probably better still if I stop going :offtopic: |
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