The stator provides AC power via the 2 white wires to the regulator/rectifier for running accys and charging the battery.

The Red and Brown wire is AC power that powers the CDI, CDI of course rectifies it for its own use and does not use the battery or accy power at all. The White/red, White/green and green wire is from the trigger coils. One trigger is at 12 degrees and the other is at 36 degrees. The CDI uses a combination of these for starting and or running as well as figuring out the advance curve for the RPM the engine is operating at. The Stock CDI and aftermarket CDI's except the Zeeltronics unit uses an analog circuit to control the advance. The Zeeltronics uses a microprocessor and precisely set the advance per your programming.

You can check the stator output with an AC volt meter set for 20 to 50 volts or so, when you kick the engine over you can see the AC voltage on the stator wires. Best if you have a schematic but the wires should be disconnected from external circuits for the measurement.

Both white wires should be connected to the AC voltmeter and should provide an upswing in voltage as you kick it. (remove spark plug to make it easier), the red and brown wire would be connected to measure CDI power and the White/red to green is connected to check 1/2 of the trigger coil and the white/green to green is to check the other 1/2.

If you get upswing of voltage on all of these the stator is probably OK.

In my case I did have voltage on all of these stator connections on both of my xt's but no spark. A new CDI fixed the problem. See my info on the Zeeltronics if you decide to replace the CDI. From early seat of the pants dyno, my 86 bike runs stronger with the Zeeltronics, I will be swapping the Hyperpak CDI back in to verify this is correct and not just wishful thinking on my part.

In looking at your question again, the CDI takes the AC voltage, steps it up higher to maybe a 100 or 200 volts DC and charges a capacitor, then when the trigger is detected and when the CDI determines when it is the correct time to fire depending on RPM it sends a fairly high voltage pulse to the coil via the orange wire by discharging the capacitor. The coil of course steps up this even higher to make the spark. CDI = Capacitor Discharge Ignition...

Are you seeing any pulse on the orange wire? Use the AC setting of about 50 volts or so. If you don't see anything, set the meter to a lower range. Keep in mind, if working properly the CDI will output a pretty hefty pulse. You would feel it as a shock if touching it. Not like the ignition coil output though.... The Zeeltronics actually steps up output to a 270 volt pulse, which will in turn provide an even higher coil output voltage than stock.

www.zeeltronic.com for further info. Best to send email to info@zeeltronic.com or borut@Zeeltronic.com He will answer and advise.

I think you are giving the wrong adress Steve? This is correct: ZEELTRONIC - HOME zeeltronic@gmail.com info@zeeltronic.com

That was my findings also. ^ The website given by xtrock has the correct info, I will find out for sure this week, need to chat with them on my new project.

Address's corrected
 

Thank you for pointing out my error in the addresses, added a "S" to the ending.

Steve

update:
switched wire harness and have spark. went back to previous harness compared tested. Problem was with the kick stand wires. Cut out connection and have spark.

THANK YOU GUYS. understanding the system convinced me to look harder at the wires.

Now I still have a no start but I feel i'm getting closer.
Plug looks to have a nice spark once grounded to head.
After killing my foot trying to kick over I had 2 small back fires from carb.
I'm still reading kick start procedure trying to get somewhere positive. Seems like too much compression.
I've tried starter fluid in intake, a little gas/oil mix in cylinder. pushing down a very steep hill:ban: just an occasional burp.
Plug is new. Tried 2 of them. Plug smells like gas but not wet.
I would expect something from the fuel added directly.
I'll pull carb again and check mixture screw and check float height.
Depressed I haven't had moment of relief.
Greg

Is your compression cable connected and working? If it is working, then make sure you set the free play to .5mm. If too much free play you won't get the full benefit of the compression release.

If your cable is broken, replace it or you will blow out your knee.

Starting procedure is:
gas on, key off, throttle closed. Kick over 3 or 4 times. If warm weather, no choke necessary. Key on, kick down until you hear the click, release kicker to come to the top of stroke then Kick hard all the way down. No throttle until it fires, then feed a little to make sure it keeps running. Cold weather you will have to experiment on how much choke you need. Rarely do you need a full choke. In my experience with mine, if it fires and dies immediately, try again. If it does this again, add a little choke.

I am sure others can chime in with suggestions.

If you know you've flooded it, OPEN throttle wide open and kick a few times with key off. You may have to let sit as well.

Hope this helps.

I always kick mine with a good set of motocross boots or at minimum high work boots tightend up good for ankle support. It makes a person more willing to kick harder. I mean kick HARD !!
On mine I always have to use full choke on a cold motor regardless of temp, but have to turn off right after it fires. Even though it runs rich.
When you loosen the drain screw on carb does the gas come out at a good rate and continue for the entire time? Just to check for sufficient fuel flow in carb bowl.
Try a bit more gas/oil than what you have. about 2 teaspoons full(maybe 1 to 2 cc in a syringe).

gas + air + spark = fire , as long as compression and ignition timing is right anyways, which brings up another suggestion, is the timing right?

It could be not kicking fast enough. Any way of bribing someone to give you a really good push down hill (third or fourth gear)?
And PLEASE, NO MORE starting fluid !! I hate that stuff for gas engine, even don't care for it on diesels unless really cold.

The decompress cable looks to be in good condition. Can I see what the cable is doing? Is it an obvious movement it makes when it releases. I'll stare at it in the light.
I feel its not working or working correct. I can hear that last click but don't feel the pressure ease up. But about %30 of time it kicks well. So seems something is working?

Have not checked the timing.

Pulled carb again, will check float height and check pilot. (have thoroughly gone through all ready but ....)

Carb has gas. when i drain the bowl their is plenty of gas
will take advice and try again later today
thanks

Just remember, it is a 30 year old bike, they have little querks and special ways of doing things. The starting procedure becomes natural once you figure out just what your particular motor is happy with, then starting becomes easy(er ?). Till then, you do start to question your own sanity doh.
This is why I'm converting mine to E-start, plus to be able to re-start a hot motor at will not whether the bike "feels" like starting. Sat on the curb for 10-15min waiting for the thing to cool just to get the thing started again too many times:funmeterno:. My '83 Honda XL does that as well, 80's tech, gotta love it. But I sure do get a lot of compliments on the great 'ol bikes.

The decompress arm in the head pushes one exhaust valve open a little bit to allow some of the compression out, the bike won't start when the valve is doing this, thus why we say to get it just past the "click" and then a full hard kick.
The decompress cable should be adjusted by slowly kicking the motor over till it "clicks" then release the kick lever and go look at the arm on the head that the cable is attached to. You should be able to push that arm toward the rear of the bike .5 mm (.02") fairly easy(it does have spring pressure). That means it is allowing the valve to close completely, if there is no free play the engine won't start very good due to loss of compression, but it still may "feel" like it has enough. If it has a bunch more free play, the decompress won't really do much and the kick lever will "hit a wall" and be extremely hard to push past.

Ok first thank you all very much for advice and wisdom!!!
I got it started tonight!!! finally
Went through carb again and took some guitar wire and cleaned out the pilot. Looked like it had a block on the top. I feel this had a lot to do with it as it seemed it wasn't getting fuel.
put all back together and when i tried to start it gave indication of a maybe. But the decompress cable still seemed not right. Took advice on that and played with it. Opened up valve adjustment points and everything look correct. Wind up tightening it up and what a difference!!! Stumbled a bunch then sprayed a spit of starter in and it turned over. probably would of been a good idea at this point to turn the petcock to on!!!! Then bam it came to life.
Shut bike down when i saw a leak from the secondary main jet. Well its busted and I have another carb and that one is busted too :(. Any advice on where to track one down?
Looks like I might be able to seal it up for the time being with some tubing.

In conclusion
Great board, was very helpful to have help. Once I knew the wiring was not the issue it was much easier to keep focus. I could of wasted a lot of time on the ignition/charging system with out the replies.

Now to get the main jets and actually drive it and see what other issues pop up.:eek3:
Best
Greg

You say the secondary main jet is broken? or is it just the supply hose. Those hoses can rot and leak.

the jet. looks like it was over torqued. Treaded stem is in carb body.

That's the drain on the bottom of the carb, not really a jet. You can get away for now with just clamping a short hose on it and plugging the other end of the hose. Obviously don't leave it like that for long. They do tend to get crammed too tight, which makes them leak more down the road.

On the bottom of the right carb body (sitting on bike), there is a jet that screws up in. its attached to hose connecting other carb body.
yamaha has it as a #130 jet 5y1-14343-65-00.
It looks like it might be obsolete?

Yes, the screw in hose bib is a jet as well. If you watch eBay, you will run across one once in a while. I found a 125 and plan to try it in Colorado. Previously I found that while in the Colorado High country I was too rich and as a field expedient I put a piece of .020 safety wire thru that secondary main jet to make it leaner. I ran it that way many times over the years.