Remove Rocker shaft?
 

Anyone done this on the 3TB? If iam correct you attach a bolt into the end and use slidehammer pulling the shaft out, is there anything inside that have to be removed before doing this job, except for the bolts holding the shaft? The bolt to fit in the end is a 5mm.

Here's a picture of the underside(I haven't seen mine yet), scroll down and there is an underside photo. It does look exactly like my XL and it is just take the pin out of the side and pull out, simple as that. I can take a pic of my spare to show how it is if needed. But I would just pull that puppy out .

I know what it looks like, have taken off the cover several times as i explained in the other thread. The qustion is do i have to remove any washer? For me it looks like remove the bolt holding the rocker shaft and pull the shaft a little out to replace O-ring?

no washer, just pull it out.

interesting, the link was removed from earlier post.

1993 Yamaha XT600EE Valve | Yamaha Sports Plaza

Nr 20 is washer on the rocker shaft, i quess they are not removeable before shaft is pulled off?

Those washers are slid over the shaft on each side of the rocker to keep it centered, they are a curved or wave design to put side pressure on the rocker. They just slide on the shaft and don't come out till the shaft is out. Now I see why your questioning this, your probably wanting to do this without removing the cover, I would try it, but take the inspection plug off right in front of it and maybe have someone reach in with fingers and hold the rocker toward the washer to keep it pinched(my Hondas wouldn't come out unless the rockers were pryed out). If you only pull the shaft out enough to replace the O-ring , I would be willing to bet it'll stay right where it is and you'll have no problems.
If it falls out, the rocker will move side to side and you'll be able to check for that, if it can't be seen.
I can take some pics of how that setup is in pieces(the Honda version but identical) to show what I'm saying.

Maybe the long rear shaft can be done with cover on, but mine is leaking in front and as you see bolt 17 has to be removed first.

Ah , that one has that lock bolt inside. Yep.
Make a cap with an O-ring and bolt it to the end of the leaking shaft to seal up the outside. Have to seal the bolt going through the cap also. Then you don't need to change the other o-ring or take the cover apart till needed for something else. It would be easy at least for me as a machinist, and stainless !

Yes i dont understand why they didnt make a cap outside in the beginning, would be so easy getting this seal changed. Iam taking off the cover doing this correct, waiting for all seals to come.

I have changed the O ring seal and still i get oil coming out from that FU.... hole, 4 times i have done this job now.. Its only on the right side the problem is, its not much but after an hour riding you can see oil outside on the engine. This time the seal was on for 3 days before use.

Your going to have to plug up that pesky oil feed line going up to the head and run her dry.?c?
Oil is over rated anyways.:smartass:

Did the new o-ring fit tight or get shaved off a bit when reinserting the shaft? Maybe need to find a bit bigger(diameter) o-ring to squash it more. The shaft doesn't turn so it's just a matter of cramming it in there to begin with. Or maybe run 2 of them.

Nothing wrong with theO ring i removed, there is no room for more than one of these in the gap. Maybe i could fill the gap with the sealer before i fit O ring. There is something strange about that right side, all other seals are ok. I think i have to live with the oil problem, its no fun anymore taking apart all the parts to do this sealing...

I was thinking about the pressure, maybe i have to much pressure in the top causing this problem with oil. Its limited amount of oil in the top cover, and there shouldnt be to much pressure making the oil come out. The hoses coming from engine seem fine.

There should be plenty of other places to leak if it's a pressure thing other than that o-ring. It's kind of away from any flinging oil, plus the shaft doesn't even move, so the oil shouldn't be able to work its way past. Just a strange symptom.

Seem to have got it sealed now, used Loctice 5910 and new O ring. I dont recomend the Loctite 5926, and be reeally carefull when install new O ring.

Happy to hear you got it sealed. I have been fighting oil leaks on my 86 XT600. Luckily the rocker shafts did not leak, everything else did though. After resealing the rocker box and replacing all o-rings (not rocker shafts) the top end was dry, bottom end needed all seals, neutral switch and copper washer, both clutch cover and stator cover needed sealant to dry them up. I had a persistent leak from the stator cover. Finally saw the potted grommet for the stator wires had oil getting around the outside of it then draining down the neutral switch wire. Once I sealed the grommet and small rubber on the neutral switch wire in a channel of the stator cover, then replacing the stator cover gasket a second time and sealing with Yamabond #4 the bottom end is dry. Now I get to do it all over again after rebuilding my 84 top end for low compression. Should be easier second time around....

Good to hear that iam not the only one with oil leaks.. Some people dont care, but i hate oil leaks on engine even if its only a little! Yes everything is always easier when done it before, but still its alot of work doing this job and a little error is enogh and new leak is coming.. Hope you get it fixed now, good luck! And the Yamaha dealer had never heard of Yamabond here..