starter relay
 

Hi all !

Been working my way through all the electrical connections, cleaning off the crud, checking for chaffing etc. Basically looking for any potential problems in the future. Anyway came to the starter relay and upon checking the fuse/spare fuse noticed that it was rated at 30 amp (with the spare @ 15 amp ?) According to the manual this fuse should be rated at 20 amp. Anybody any idea why this fuse would have been upped ? Ive got spares in both sizes so I can swap it back to the recommended one. Just curious as to why it was altered thats all.

Bill

I,d guess the old one burnt out so he replaced it with a higher amperage one to stop it happening again.....well thats my theory anyway,,....

Id say he one of them packs with five different sizes, and he`d used the 20a & 25a so he went up to the 30a rather than going & buying the correct fuse.

Going up to a higher fuse could cause problems (meltdown) in a fault condition always go at the recommended rating or down a size at least.

If it does start popping a 20a find the fault, don't copy what the last ***** did. :nono:

Mezo.

I think as Mezo. Better find the fault.

Ive pulled all the connectors apart on my TTR600RE and cleaned the ones showing corrosion last year after numerous un Japanese and un Yamaha niggley electrical faults but I also packed them with petroleum jelly and touch wood Ive had no problems since and have more confidence in the bike.

I'd also bought a new starter relay when after being professionally diagnosed turned out to be a bad connection behind the headlight.

Thanks for the replies !


Update-----



Whilst going over everything, I noticed a bit of "different" black insulation tape covering part of the loom near the battery. I just HAD to have a look and see why. Underneath the tape were several sections of burnt/melted (3 x white wire) and a couple of other colours I cant remember now. A three inch section of two of the white wires had been cut out and had a different coloured wire TWISTED in each end completing the length. (Im guessing too badly burnt to save) These twisted joints were covered with sticky tape !

I believe these white wires go to the rectifier/regulater ?

Wondering if thats why the bigger fuse was put in instead of the correct one ? judging by a PO`s lack of attention to wire joining maybe thinking any old fuse will do.

Spent several hours replacing sections with correct size wire and soldering em in, covering exposed sections with heat shrink and nicely taped up.

Bill

3 white cables next to the battery are from the stator. I suggest you Test the stator and see if it's in tolerances!


Vando

Hi Vando !

Bike is/was running okay, being a bit of a fusspot checking over and cleaning stuff really. Didnt like the idea of twisted together wires covered with brittle sticky tape though. How would you go about checking the stator ? Can you do it without taking off the casing ? Theres obviously been a fault at sometime in the bikes life for it to have burnt wiring.

Bill

I know what you mean!
Sometimes burnt wires comming from the stator means that one of the phases from the stator is bad and instead of the power being split three ways it goes only two ways which overheats the wires and sometimes even melts the connector block.

check here: 3-phase Alternator Stator Charging System testing with a DVOM meter on a motorcycle Road King - YouTube

1- you have to check the continuity between all three stator cables. All have to have continuity between each other.

2- you have to check continuity to earth on each stator cable to a good frame earth-ground. There can't be any continuity to ground.


Also, check your regulator/rectifier and ensure that it is good!
link: Motorcycle Repair: How to Check a 3 Phase Bridge Rectifier on a 2009 Kawasaki KLR 650 - YouTube


Vando