Stator problems/replacement.
 

Hi !
A few days ago I whant to go fore a ride with my 87 mod Tenere (1VJ) but would not start because the battery was emty, has been sitting fore a while, charged the battery over night and next day it started and I start riding. It has been something wrong fore a short time, lights are following the rews. Before I got home the ligts was very bad, when I got home I checked the charging and it was jumping from 5 v to 10 v depend on rews. Then I changed the RR and it was the same, then checking for contact between the 3 white cables from stator and there is 0 readings when engine is running and there is contact between all 3. I asume that the stator is broken and need a replacement, have been checking on internet (CMSNL, Wemoto did not have)) for a new one and the prices are very high, 665 euro. Is there any chance there is any interchange between models or do someone on the Hubb know where I can get a new one cheaper ?

hi you can have your stator rewound like here
Westcountry Windings - Services
you can search in your country or a nearby country for rewinding services ,steve

Carmo electronics in the Netherlands quoted me €217,20 (including 21% VAT / excluding shipping charges) but you have to send them your stator for rewinding as they have none in stock to swap. They said it would take three to four days. I didn't actually use them in the end as my problems don't seem to be to do with the stator.

Wemoto in the UK offer one by Electrex for 90£ (http://www.wemoto.com/bikes/yamaha/x...-_by_electrex/) but I've not used them so don't know if their stuff is any good.

I have a stator for sale, I can send it to you. I can check tomorrow if it fits your bike.

70€ + shipping, should be about 20€...

ssbon, cinnal : Thanks for tip about rewinding :-)
Islabe : Is it a used one or a new ?
Please check if it fitts, I have a 87 mod 1VJ XT 600 Tenere with kick and eletric starter.

I've bought a number of electrical bits direct from Electrex (they're only a few miles from me) and it's all been good but at a quick glance I don't see a specific listing for an 87 Tenere stator.

I've had a couple of stators rewound by West Country Windings (I went through a phase of bikes with dodgy electrics) and they were also pretty good. They seemed v professional when I called in (workshop was just over the road from where my parents used to live) and as neither of their rewinds burnt out again what more can you ask.

It may be a bit of a pain to have to send the old one from Norway but at least you'll know it'll fit when it comes back. Cost wise it was about the same as an Electrex replacement but postage might bump that up a bit.

There should be plenty of places who offers to rewind the stator.

Rex's Speed Shop - Sales 01580 880768
Ricky Stator - Manufacturer of ATV and Dirt Bike Stators, Electrical Components, Lighting Systems and Suspension Products

For a new one, have a look at the "G45" on the link below, looks like a straight swap, and its only 87£

"New replacement Alternator Stator to fit :- (Stator Size 115/54/17mm). XT600 (84-90) ":

BB Bikeshop Ltd Yamaha Alternators

Hi, what do you mean by 0 readings? My 1VJ stator had a couple of broken solder joints where the white wire join the enamelled stator windings causing poor charging. Perhaps yours is also broken. A tickle with a good soldering iron sorted it out.
Regards, Dave

A stator from '91-'07 KLR650 will fit as well for a lot more options.


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Thanks for all the tips.
It`s on hold fore a while due to building a carport before I whent to work.
When I`m back home again later this year I will do some more checking around the problem. Will at the same time change the bearing for eletric starter that is broken when I`m first in there.
Thanks again and I will keep posting when I know some more.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/391943883077
Stator: 35bucks with free shipping from China

That one is for the later bikes with TCI systems. The diameter is smaller and they lack the windings for the CDI. Also there is just one timing pickup, the cdi types have two.
I fitted one of these to my bike (1VJ) when I re-engined it with a 3TB motor, and other than having to open out some holes because they were in the wrong place, it works fine and is so much cheaper than genuine.

A small update on my stator/charging problem.
Took me some time to take of cover and have a closer look inside, it do look good so I took the stator to a generatorshop to do some checking and they found nothing wrong so far. Start thinking it can be the regulator that make the problem or the battry, will buy new both.
When I`m in there it is time to change the starter bearing that have been not working for a long time, I have a new one waiting. Got the nut off the flywheel and now waiting for a flywheel puller to arrive, hopefully it will be there when I get home from work in few weeks.
Some pictures from my garage and the bike.

Hi again !
Got my puller a week ago and got to work, now it have been sitting there with pressure on and the flywheel still stuck, have tryed to warm up with a small torch, hitting it with my big hammer but no f..... way it will come loose.
Any god ideas that can be used to get it of ?
How hot can it be before there will be a problem with magneto ?

-------------------- Heat
It is the difference in temperature between the shaft and the collar that is important .. not the total temperature.

So you want a lot of quick heat not slow heat. You do want it where your heating it, but something more powerful than what your using.

Temperature wise ... any seal on the shaft will melt if too hot. Oil will start to boil. And the magnets loose strength. I'd limit it to the boiling point of water.

------------------- Impact
Hitting it with a hammer .. where? The hit should be no top of the single long bolt you are tightening ... with the biggest hammer you have. After each hit check the bolt is still tight.

Good luck.

From personal experience I'd be very careful with the heat - I managed to melt the glue that holds the magnets in place and it still didn't move. The hammer did nothing for me either. What did work was to put a metre long bar on the spanner and crank it with that. It might fly off though so put some restraining wire on it just in case. Good luck - it's a tough job.

Speedy, if you hit the puller centre bolt, which you likely will have to, you will most likely damage the crankshaft end with that setup you have.
You need to use a spacer so the force is not put on the threaded portion of the crankshaft.

See post #5 which shows the spacer coloured blue

http://www.horizonsunlimited.com/hub...r-clutch-53329

Bob

Then I need to get something that heat up quicker and se how it goes, and I`m hitting on the top of the bolt.

I`m hitting the centerbolt yes and there ia a spacer between crankshaft end. Will se if I can find something I can use as a spacer.

This is a good tip, need to check if I have something similar in my hardware store.

Tighten the puller, give it a whack with a big hammer.
After that you should be able to tigthen the puller a bit again, and give it another whack. Doing this a couple of times should make it fly right of.

Common sence has to be used, but they can be on there pretty tight.

https://www.milwaukeetool.com/Produc...-Tools/2767-20

Get hold of a machine like this or other high torque impact wrench, some stores have for rent.

Yes, that's a good point.
I've been using just another nut (not bike's one) from my diy kit, placing it at the end of the crankshaft.
http://vardzelashvili.com/imghost/im...48P1010240.jpg

Kedo sleeve might protect thread better, meanwhile nut prevents flywheel flying across the garage : )

On my very first attempt of flywheel removal I've left tightened puller overnight, than hammer worked.

I still think that slide hammer might be best and safest way, so probably will modify my "puller" with this option.

I used an old socket to protect the shaft. I tried using a normal off the shelf nut to block off the tool end of the socket but the centre bolt just ate straight through it. So I cut a little cube from the 12mm plate I was using to make the puller and that held. There are some serious forces going on there. Another tip someone on this forum gave me was to lubricate the thread on the pulling bolt.

It`s still fighting and will not come of but here is still tips comming, I just work on in between other things I do and hopefully it will be ready when snow is gone away.

Finally the flywheel gave up ang came loose using a old socket and longer bolts for the puller:clap::clap: The starter clutch was also fighting a little bit but using a puller it came loose to.
Cleaned up everything and put all back together again, when try to start the battery was shot so I got a new one but the starter would not turn around the engine, used the kick and it fired up after a few kicks, running good and charge as it should, 14 v, due to the charging problem it started with half a year ago. I think the starter is the problem, it turns but slowly, maybe it is stuck because it have not been used in 3 years. Have a spare starter i will try tomorrow and see if it works then.

Thanks for all the tips I get here in this forum.

A few more pictures.
On the last picture there is a small hose I wounder where it should be because I cant see where it goes.
Is it a vacum hose for something ?

You shouldn't have to press the starter gear off the bearings , they should slip on with just a slight drag but not more .

I put all new cables on my estart , from the battery to the starter relay, then relay to starter, using 4ga (IIRC), roughly 2 ga heavier than stock. Used heavier copper ends soldered on myself , all for best possible juice flow .Much easier to get all the available oomh at the starter. Before doing this I couldn't get my starter to get past the first compression stroke on the hi comp motor , after the heavy wires no problem. When new the stock wires are probably ok(not great though), but after years they slowly flow less.



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I agree with jjrider, heavier cables are a must! It only cost a few €, and you can easily do this at your garage, even kitchen, if you dont have a garage ;)

I would also recomend doing all new ground cables, they ussualy cause most problems...

Next time, instead of beating the sh*te out of the shaft with a hammer, just use a sliding hammer!

Yes slidehammer is really handy, i would never had the rear wheel bearing out without this for my car. The knock impact makes the difference for these problems!

Thanks for more advice according to the starter problem, will put thicker cable on later. After using the bike it will start on the eletric starter when it is warm, when cold I need to kick it.
The reason I had to use a puller on the starterclutch was that it was stuck, after I got it of it was working normaly but I had a new one that I put in to be sure there will be no more problems.
And a sliding hammer is better then sledge that is for sure, maybe I will get one of these to later on.

guys i'm having an issue with my one way bearing and i took all my engine apart using your advises from these posts. does anybody knows the code for the one way bearing ? i know the part number is 3TB1559001
thinking of buying this one https://www.stelpet.gr/Proion/23784/...0-94-3TB15590/

has anyone used this aftermarket product?

nick, open your own thread, so people know it is not an old topic...


if the problem is in the gear wheel, then i have one hanging from a wire in my workshop as decoration :)


just paypal me the shipping cost and it's yours for free.



i might have a bearing too, but right now i dont see it anywhere and my workshop is in a mess,

it's removed from an engine i prepared for my supermono racer but that was two years ago...

it would take time to find it which i dont have right now.


i you can wait, maybe i can find the bearing too

After all these years in being here i feel like we are a part of one big family.

Thank you very much but i ordered one 1 hour ago.

But what i really would love is a chance to ride with you guys!

Thank you again it's the gesture and the thought that counts! i'm overwhelmed !

The bearing from a Honda XR650L works as well and is 1/3 cost of the Yamaha one . The gear should always be replaced at the same time even if it "looks" ok , the bearing surface gets worn down, even .001", and the bearing will slip much easier/sooner .



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