Suspect Stator
 

Hello I think I am having a problem with my stator as I have a weak spark, oops bike is an XT600Z 88, 3AJ.

Heres what I have replaced so far: Spark plug, cap, ignition coil/ HT lead.
(I know is overkill but am happy to carry as spares for our trip)

I have tested the resistance of the pickup coil using the brown and red wires and received a resistance of 159ohms

I then went to test the Pickup coil and found a three plug socket with 1white/red, 1white/green, 1green on the CDI side and 1green/white, 1black/yellow, 1blue/yellow on the generator side. When I tested resistance between the wires coresponding to the 1white/red, 1white/green I received 247ohms

Am I testing the correct spot? and I have read that this resistance is out of bounds but is it still usable?

Thanks any help appreciated
Chris


[This message has been edited by chris Aus (edited 27 May 2005).]

Resistance figure is OK.
Your spark looks weak, but is the bike running badly? What is the problem with the bike?

Auke

Hello Auke


My bike won't start! I originally thought was a fuel problem but it appears I am getting fuel. So I then checked the spark and found it very weak. This is where I am now. Any Ideas or what to check?

Thanks
Chris

Not familiar with Yamahas but sounds like the bike has a CDI ignition fitted.

Take the CDI box to a Yamaha dealer that has a test rig.

You could send the stator & pick-up to Electrex in Stoke Row, the Oxford side of Henley on Thames. They rewound my DR600 stator plate & replaced the pick-up for about £50 many years ago. Their number is:

01491 - 682369.

Ai, that's bad. Before exchanging parts and the like, first check the obvious items: wire harness OK, bad wiring / sockets, coil correct resistances, stop button OK, ignition lock OK, sidestand switch OK, clutch switch Ok, etc etc.
If you have the diagram you will see that the ignition system is actually pretty simple so not too difficult to test.
From the original 'YAMAHA CDI fault finding guide' I learned that you have to check everything else. If no fault turns up you should exchange CDI with a certified OK specimen.

Good luck!
Auke

Thanks Steve I have a CDI on order.........................am hoping it is that!
If it is my Stator though I would be chasing someone to rewire it so thanks for the contact.

Cheers
Chris

No Auke its not bad. As we are off on a rather long trip very shortly with 3 Teneres I am happy to have these as spares. I have been through all the wire harness and connectors relating to ignition. I have not read any where how to test switches etc as I am under the belief they either work or not. Is there a specific resistance I can expect across all these circuits / switches or is continuity adequate? Will a faulty switch create a weak spark?

Thanks again the hunt continues...................................... rather frustratingly

Hi all, surprised to read this....i have the same problem with my 1vj 86 model !!
Originaly started only to die as I was pulling away, then would not start atall.
Only got so far as checking the coil, which is in limits, new lead and plug cap etc.
Would be nice to borrow a CDI before i shell out for one....
Why not borrow one of your mates? (CDI) Just so you can rule that part out..
Keep posting anyway, its all good infomation to share..

Hello Blackjack

Will be trying one of there CDI's as soon as they are back in the city. I also have an after market one on order. So will let you know how it all goes...............

Cheers
Chris

Ok, to be honest, I did use once the official approach to these problems; the approach not leading to a running engine we exchanged the alternator which did work out fine. So, your approach to exchage parts from the other tenere's is a good one.
But, don't rule out the possibility of bad wiring.
As for switches, no real resistance should be measured there, but on the other hand a few Ohms won't hurt either.
An important thing is to check earthing. There is a black wire from the CDI to the battery bracket, this should be very continuous with the engine, for instance the starter motor bolt that the earth lead from the battery is connected to.
A last-ditch trick would be to bypass all protection circuits, which involves a bit of tinkering, eliminating ignition lock, stop button, sidestand switch etc. Look at the diagram and you'll see what I mean.

Succes and a good trip!
Auke