Hmm, melted contacts ?? On the actual bulb ?

Sounds like its sucking in way too many volts but you have checked this .. HMMM !!

All the other electrics on the battery fine ?? Battery holding charge, starts ok ?? I think either the wiring just aint built for that amperage or you have another problem..

Electrics was never my strongest point ! :rolleyes2:

Pigford, did you measure the voltage with the engine running at maybe 3000 – 4000 RPM’s? I haven’t been messing with the electric stuff in the TT, but 12 volts sounds a little low, 13.5-14 volts is more like it. At 12 volts the battery won’t even charge.

Although - If the wires towards the headlight are a little thin, that might explain the dropped voltage.

They can be 12v at the bulbs.. After voltage drop, regulation etc but yes, he should definately do what you suggested !

Read this....

Melted headlight connector - ADVrider

ok i'm just back from the pub but if the bulb contact is melted the current draw is too much for the surface area of the contact point or the load is not dissapated correct ie: earth connection:nono:

hot bulbs are fine as long as the area they are heating (lens) is either big enough or getting cooled by air movement over it :rolleyes2:

voltage should be measured across the battery as it's the most stable reference point and should be done at mid revs to give a realistic figure.

i'd recomend sticking a spot light on the front for high beam use and only resort to the standard bulb for highway use :thumbup1:

Thanks for all the input guys.............

I'll try & check it with a more accurate meter, my one is a 12yr old cheapy!

Had no probs today with the 35/35w - apart from the fact, on the way home IN THE DARK, I couldn't see f**k all.