Two questions.. for now...
 

Hi
As Im trying to take apart my engine xt600z (3ds) i have two questinos to ask you who have done this before...

1 - Are the rotor and "starterwheel/sprocket" one piece? Extremely hard to pull it off, no success yet. I see 3 hex bolts in there, do I take them out and separate it?

2 - Will the clutch come off in one piece with all plates in it, or do I have to take it down piece by piece?

Ill probably bomb you guys with questions for a while. Its my first time tearing down this thing, Ive searched the forum ,found many answers but not all, so please bear with me :innocent:

Thanks
Osmund

I don't remember about the flywheel but the clutch will come off without having to take the plates off!

I do remember that my flywheel was a pain to come off! It's really tight! it has to be....

All you gotta do is remove the clutch springs and remove the big nut in the middle of the clutch!


Vando :cool4:

Miss,Miss....I know this..

Right ..I,ve just done this and caused a lot of damage....


First the rotor...you get your three high tensile steel bolts and a round disc/puller and load up the puller really really tight then hit the end of the puller shaft with a hammer...seriously....and it will pop off with some force. Mine jumped off about a foot and landed on the floor.....it was horizontal at the time.

The next side is the clutch.....the way to do it is with a rattle gun....air operated.....I tried with a strap wrench and broke the outer leg of the clutch basket ....then I tried to hold the three legs on the inside and broke one of them off. I just bought a second hand clutch from e bay at 200 bucks.!!

Took the whole engine into work tonight and I sh..t you not I gunned the rattle gun twice and the nut came off( not forgetting too bend over the tab washer)

Its on the back seat of the car as I,ve just got home from work....you can check my earlier posts about the clutch breaking.

I,m pulling mine apart for the fifth gear problem so if I come across any problems I ll post it ....good luck with the engine strip....you can also you tube it ...just put in yamaha srx600 engine...and there is a dutch guy stripping the engine which is the same as the xt just about but not using any pullers or really straining to get bolts undone so I think he had it already stripped before....good luck and take care....:scooter:

Sorry ...the answer to your first question about the clutch is to take the five bolts out and remove the cover then remove all the disc,s and stack them up one on top of each other and underneath is the large nut with a tab washer on it...unbend the tab washer and use a pnuematic rattle gun to remove the large nut......you will only damage the rotating assemblies by trying to hold them.........:thumbup1:

Thank you guys for very good info. Ill go get a rattlegun first thing when the shops open again... AFTER EASTER!! :-( getting impatient now, hehe.
Better get a proper puller too, only reason I didnt get it was that it cost $100..but seems like I cant do it without it...
Found the workshop manual for the xt600e, and thats pretty helpful
Thanks again, and enjoy easter holydays :-)

$100 sound a lot - there are loads of universal puller about for a fraction of that (eBay) that should do the job?

NB: Clutch plates - I think there is a thicker one in amongst that lot somewhere????? SO check as you remove them to keep them in order.

There are only 2 discs (they are the same) but are different from all the rest plus, don't forget to put in the disc-shim that works as a small spring!


Vando :cool4:

Alright!!! The crankshaft is off!!!!:clap:

The Rotor took me a couple of days to get off, but it came off tonight with my homemade puller. Would have saved me a lot of trouble if the stores were open and I could have bought a decent one...

Clutch was easy, just looked a bit scary before I started with all the springs and plates.. actually had a makita battery rattlegun that took the nut on the clutch so I didnt have to hold it and maby damage it.. Excellent!!:thumbup1:

Otherwise its going great, thanks to you guys, for good help and mailed manuals..

I use a lot of papercups and plates to keep a system on parts and screws, and it seems to work fine.

Biggest mistake so far is that I didnt clean the engine properly before I started... Didnt even cross my mind, so THATS a lesson learned.. Much harder to do it piece by piece as I go...

Now Im going to restore the crankshaft. Actually I found a shop 40km away that has been doing that since the 80`s, so Ill try them this time.

Do you guys always use new gaskets when reassembling, or just the silicone-gasket?

Osmund

I bought a complete gasket set from e bay and already used the valve seals but I need some liquid gasket for the crankcase halves....use sparingly....

Just talked to the guys doing the crankshaft; it will be NKR 3000 (£300) to fix it. Only £40 for labour, the rest in parts. A conrod-kit + the left side bearing.. A bit more than I was hoping for, but then at least it will be as new

Crank pin...
 

Attachment 3222

Just picked up my restored crankshaft today, and got the old parts too..
No wonder the engine didnt sound right.. conrod was worn at the small end, and check out the crank pin...a groove going halfway around..

And just to ask, why are the exkaust-valves white, while the intake valves are black? Does that mean anything?

Attachment 3223
Osmund

No idea as when mine came off everything was black.....hope some one will come along with an answer ..

White does often mean lean, and lean means hot.

The tip on the sparkplug seems white to, is it?

looks like you're running a wee bit lean i'd raise the needle a clip as its probably when running at 3/4 throtle on that worn engine thats done it.

the reason the exhaust valves are white and the inlets still black is due to the exhaust valves always run hotter as there is nothing to cool them you have cold air and fuel mixture cooling the top side of the inlet valves but there is just hot exhaust gas on the top side of the exhaust valves.