Wheel bearings - not getting the drift
 

While wrestling with my spokes (see previous post) I stuck a frustrated finger in the front wheel bearings and gave them a turn - uh oh. They are very lumpy and need replacing.

I looked in my Clymer XT600 manual, which gives a diagram and sayes to move the spacer out of the way and use a sharp-looking drift to knock them out. That's fine, but the spacer (in the front wheel) only moves 1mm at best, and I can't see how the hell I'm supposed to get anything onto the bearing itself.

Please, please share your experiences/thoughts on the best way to remove front and rear bearings (as I may as well do those too, sigh)?

Also where the hell does one go to buy such a drift?! (in the UK)

Thanks

Greasy Pokey Fingers


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Barry
3AJ Tenere

Hi,

I use an old largish screwdriver which I have ground the tip at a slight diagonal. This allows the pointed by to engage on the inner bearing shell. Keep moving the drift around the bearing as you knock it out (don't be afraid to use a good bit of force). When you put in new bearings remember to drift them in using only the outer bearing shell, I use a large socket for this job.

Regards

Barry

Drop a bolt through the bearing, spot weld it to the inside of the bearing and knock it out, saves fingers.

I normally cut & shape a short length of 3mm thick steel that fits inside the bearing from side to side & weld it in place with a Mig welder.

The heat from the welding heats the hub & a quick tap from the opposite side using a steel bar/ols socket extension etc removes the bearing. Remove the spacer & knock the other bearing out.

If you're quick & prepared in advance, there's sometimes enough heat in the hub to install the new bearings immediately. If not, a small gas tarch will do the job. Fit one bearing, insert spacer & fit remaining bearing.

Preparation:

Blocks of wood to support wheel rims. I have a nailed together triangle of 3"x3" timber that I use for tyre changing. Helps protect the rims & prevents disc damage.

You'll need a drift or similar to knock the new bearings in with. Something with a diameter 1mm less than the outside diameter of the bearings is ideal - sort this out in advance. A large socket can sometimes be ideal, short lengths of aluminium bar are ideal also.

Steve

Last time I did this we manufactured a spliced bit of metal tubing - a bit smaller than the inner diameter of the bearing, then cut down its length for about 5cm in 3 places across one end - forming 6 pieces - them splayed them out - pulled it through - and pushed it back to engage on the bearing lip - then start hammering....

Ahhhh, bugger.

Arc welded a bolt onto the inner race three times last night. Hit it with a hammer (not too hard to start with) and the bolt flew across my garage all three times. The bearing material doesn't like arc welding and just cracked off.

Going to try the 'split pipe' technique (above) tonight, if no success will try it with a mate's MIG.

Cheers for the tips, guys.


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Barry
3AJ Tenere

I use a car jack handle bar with the end sawn off. To keep it sharp I always saw another few mm's off. And don't forget to put the new bearings in the freezer.

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Fred, XTZ660, Holland.

Ahhh, a bolt MIG welded onto the inner race, a few bashes with the hammer and off it came.

Cheers for ideas!



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Barry
3AJ Tenere