XT 600e mods for trans-American crossing
 

http://i119.photobucket.com/albums/o...k/DSC01098.jpg

- Hepco and Becker luggage racks(modified) and engine guards
- Modified bash plate
- 23L Acebis fuel tank
- Renthal race handlebars
- Aluminium hand guards
- Stainless steel brake lines
- Stainless steel headers
- Marving Exhaust
- 50 gauge idle jet for exhaust setup
- K&N air filter
- Custom subframe bracing
- Custom rack for motar case
- Enduro Metal numberplate
- Sheepskin seat cover
- 12V socket in dash
- Oil temp gauge
- Extra tap off fuel line to fill petrol stove
- Lubeman chain oiler
- Hagon Progressive fork springs and fresh oil
- Hagon heavy duty rear shock
- All bearings new
- Linkages greased
- Bigger foot welded onto kickstand

All you need now is a proper sump guard and a windscreen !! :innocent:

http://i119.photobucket.com/albums/o...k/DSC01097.jpg

http://i119.photobucket.com/albums/o...k/DSC01096.jpg

Another view. Apon interrogation of the Hubb, there was mention of a army mortar case that some have used for tools. I found one and put it on with its own bracket. Looks the business.

The original sump guard seems strong enough and it butts up against the engine guards, making it very sturdy indeed. Time will tell if its up to the job. Has anyone had one of these fail, and be bashed right in?
I gave my missus the windscreen, because it interferes with my chest camera view.:thumbdown:, and besides, we dont go that fast anyway:scooter:

Will probably be ok. Its only plastic though. It doesn't protect the cases at all but I guess your crash guards will help a lot there.

You don't need to go that fast before the noise from the wind will make you deaf on a long trip. Even with ear plugs !

I broke my screen and had ringing in my ears after a few weeks of riding. I never ride more than 90kmh.

Did you say the bash plate is plastic? Never seen one of those. This one is ally, of a Tenere.

My bad...... I assumed it was the standard off the XT600E and because it wasnt tubular I got confused with my DRZ plastic one piece !

Should be good !! :smartass:

Looks nice. Tell more about the custum things you have fittee and/or modified.

Just so we all agree, the xt600e sump guard is metal, and very sturdy, eventho it doesnt protect as good as a real bashplate.

This is the bash guard I had on my xt600e... hence my confusion ! :innocent:



http://www.motorcyclespecs.co.za/Gal...099%20%203.jpg

Are you doing the Trans-Am trail?

Me and the missus have identical XT's and we're fixing to ride across America, by a route we've pull out our a**es, flying into Montreal, entering America on land, going from Conneticut(relatives visit), down in the shape of a V to the deep south and up through the desert through Vegas to LA, then down to San Diego and back across to hit mainlane Mexico (Copper Canyon side) and then following the road to Ushuaia, returning up the east coast to Buenos Aires, and hopefully on a ship to South Africa. Holy Sheep Sh*t boyo, how it rolls off the tongue.

These mods I have shown are pretty much all. I've got a 'analogue satnav', an idea I got from reading Bob Goddard's book 'Beyond Bucharest' (Thanks Bob) which is basically a white board attached to the handlebars. It works very well for navigation and never requires charging. Other than that, we're set to go. It seems like packing up our lives is harder than the trip planning!

Hey, I know that this isnt the right section for this type of thing, should really be in trip planning or something, but the Yammy tech section is the one I read all the time, and ideas and help have mostly come from here, so I thought it only fitting to show/tell all you Yamaha Tech readers/writers what has come from this little corner of the Hubb!

Sounds like a brilliant time is in store for you both - best of luck. I'd definitely think about a screen though.

Mind if I ask a couple of questions as I'm prepping an XT as well.

What stainless headers did you go for and where did you get your Hagon bits from? Were they expensive?

Thanks

I went for the Motad headers because they are most like the original. The Marving exhaust is the most like the original can as well. Because my wife has the same bike(lower milage and completely original) I had the opportunity to compare performance. I used to have a DEP silencer and dyna-jet kit + K&N filter setup(ie "race"). This was great with no luggage and giving it the beans around the place. We went on a trip to Norway and we loaded the bikes up as in the pics. My wife could coast in 5th gear at 50mph( this is the speed I would say would be ideal for back roads with good scenery), no problem, but I was dipping below the powerband and would have to periodically change down to forth. This was highly irratating, and on top of that, my bike ate more fuel. My mechanic said that "race" setups only move the powerband higher so when you going faster or are accelerating hard (ie when you racing) the bike will have more puff. This is exactly what you never do when touring with luggage on! Original, or close to is the best for traveling, in my opinion. I've kept the K&N filter in for cleaning purposes on the road, and the bike did benefit from an increase in size of the pilot jet, from standard 48(I think) to a 50.

The Hagon stuff is direct from Hagon. I cant give you exact prices, but the rear shock is just below £300 and the progressive springs are about £100( not too sure on that one). Hagon are good and they are helpfull. Give em a call.

http://i119.photobucket.com/albums/o...k/DSC01081.jpg

Pic of the dash with oil temp gauge and 12v socket

I've read on may a forum post about 'T'ing the carb breathers so if you go into deeper water the engine wont stop. I Also read somewhere that you can cut em shorter, as long as they not above the airbox. I've cut mine shorter, nowhwere near the airbox. They hang down and just about touch the top of the main engine casings, about level with the spot where the head attaches to the lower engine. I've ridden it through water since, without any problems. Have I done the right thing? Or have I endangered the engine to water ingress?

I think you want the breather as high as possible, so water wont block it.

Stock it goes from the right carb, up and backwards towards the front of the airbox. That is... as I recall it. Mine goes that way.

When T-ing, you have one going down, and one going uo, so if you rid ein water, the top one can still flow air. Again, as I recall it.

I love watercrossings, and have never had my bike die in one. Its gotten stuck, and a lot of other things, but has never "drowned"

So whats the advantage of t ing it ove cutting shorter? If the top pipe off the t is above the airbox, water could still go in there. Anyone got any pics of this done?:confused1:

If water goes over the airbox, water will enter the carbs through the airbox anyway. I have never herd about cutting the breather shorter.

The lower the breather is, the lower water you can cross before the hose is under water.

Hope we talk about the same thing, because the above is the only logical thing in my mind.

I'm sure we are talking about the same thing. Before I cut the breathers, they hung right down past the point where the swingarm attaches to the main frame. In fact they were routed throught a gap beteen the metal to hang even lower. This is how it comes from the factory, as my wifes bike was exactly the same. Now they are about half as low. In my mind, its just got to be better. However, if there is an advantage to 'T'ing them, I'm keen to know about it, as I'd consider changing what I've done if its not up to common knowledge.

Are you talking about the gas overflow hose, and the drainhose from the buttom of the carb? Just leave them, cant see a gain there.

Im talking about the bike hose from the right carb, hvich goes up under the seat, and have a build-in filter in the end.

A picture says more than a thousand words, and im not good explaining myself in english. :D

The drain hoses. The hose with the filter in the end is still in place. Is this the one that gets 'T'-ed?