XT600 carbs or battery?
 

Hey tehere!

I have a 1992 xt600E, And the damn thing wont start, well kind of... The first thing, it strats when cold and seems to run fine, ok there are occassional backfires, but when I turn on any of the lights (low beam, blinker, horn) it sometimes stops runing if I dont give more gas. The battery isnt brand new, but still, I thought it should run even without battery once running :confused1::confused1:

Is this have anything todo with R/R or maybe just bad ground?

And even when running it only runs with choke on, once I turn it off, it stalls or if I give gas starts running very rough and I hear a sort of slight knocking sound from the carb :confused1:

First find out if you have charging, measure! Next take out carb and clean it, there is a small filter inside too.

Not sure how cleaning a fish would help, but I'm game to try anything ;)

:smartass:

It is charging, it shows about 13,4 volts on a running bike. I already cleaned the carbs, but will take them apart again. The only thing I couldnt get to was the diaphragm because the bolt holding it in place was damaged. I guess Ill just bore it out and replace it.

I did NOT. Thanks, will also check that :thumbup1:

Yes this is the small filter i was writing about, had about same problem as you when filter in tank was defect and rust came down to this filter.

As a GUESS ... I think your Pilot Jet is clogged. I recommend buying a NEW jet ... do not clean old jet. Just replace with new one. To do this, Carb must come off the bike. Take it apart and clean everything really well. Clean or Replace filter and Pilot jet.

Take your time, work slowly and carefully. Remove all jets, clean all orifices once jets are removed. Use Carb cleaner (eye protection) and high pressure air. Carefully remove float bowl cover and clean gently. Keep track of all parts. Take pictures or video if you are easily confused.

If battery will not crank over bike ... you could try to charge it up ... or ... if that battery is over 3 or 4 years old and is not maintained on a "smart" charger, then to be sure ... I would replace the battery with a NEW sealed, Maintenance free battery. (Yuasa are good)

Don't worry about the "knocking" sounds now ... all bikes run terrible with a clogged jet. Most likely, once Carb and Jets are CLEAN .. it will run OK.

Good luck! bier

Thank you all for quick and usefull tips :thumbup1:

I will get to the carb later today and report back. Thanks again.

On this subject what carb cleaners/ high power air solutions do you folk recommended in the UK. I've got a GS550 that needs its carbs doing and I've read various online demos but they're all from the US talking about US products that I'm not sure I can easily buy here. Never done carbs before so any advice welcomed

I used high pressure air on can and petrol, never had problem after the clean. Its importan to check the filter inside tank if you dont have one xtra on the hose, my filter was floating inside tank.

Carb Cleaner/technique
 

I only use petrol for cleaning if stuck on side of the road or if NO OTHER chemical is available. Never use petrol indoors. Great way to burn down your house. :oops2: ... and (obviously) handle chemicals with extreme care.

I'm guessing the Suzuki GS550 uses a typical CV type carbs? Either Mikuni or Keihin? So fairly simple, straightforward Carb. Get the work shop manual if you can. (online?)

I'd go on a UK forum, specific to mechanical subjects, get some tips. Maybe there is a GS550 forum? :confused1:

Carb rebuilding
Take your time, go slow, take both Carbs off. Keep all parts organized. Try to find out what jets it should have. Probably just a Pilot Jet, Main Jet and needle valve (little rubber tipped thingy shown above) along with some air passages, maybe a leak jet of some kind? Should also have a Pilot fuel screw adjustment and Idle adjustment. Remove all you can ... flush then blow it all out. (eye protection!)

Try to get a professional Carb cleaner ... remove all rubber bits from carb and soak in the solution for several hours. If you can, buy NEW Carb kits for your Carbs. This should include various O rings and other parts for your Carbs. Old dried out O rings can cause problems on old bikes, especially in float bowl.

No idea what is available in UK regards Carb cleaners, most in USA are now very weak and non toxic ... thus rather ineffective. Get the best you can. Find out what Pros are using.

Very good advice from XTrock about cleaning In-Tank Petcock Filters. These are often ignored and can really get a lot of grunge build up on older bikes. Remove petcock, flush tank out, make sure it's clean and not rusted inside.

Clean petcock filter(s) attached to intake pipes on petcock. You may have two pipes ... (for RUN and RESERVE)

Always try to do this type of work outside or in VERY well ventilated area ... Fan? Wear gloves when working with Petrol or Carb Cleaner.

bier

Thanks guys I'm gonna have a read and think about what you've said and then look around and see what I can buy. I assume, if you have to soak the carb bits, that the carb cleaner isn't a spray, as I guess you get through a lot of it?

Most Carb cleaners here ARE spray type ... and not all that effective. Soaking is best if you have a lot of built up Varnish in the internal passages. But you could just keep applying spray on cleaner ... as it evaporates, spray on more. To soak you need to buy a whole big tin of the stuff. So, you decide.

Probably be adequate with the spray if not too bad.

Best ! :scooter:

Another thing you might consider that is very cheap is white vinegar!

Bear with me on this one. We used to use it to clean and service breathing regulators when I worked in the diving industry, when sonic baths weren't available (like when you're living on a pontoon 25km offshore!)

BUT! Also bear in mind that it is a very mild acid and any carb parts that you soak must NOT be left for any more than 30 minutes at a time before you have another look at them. If you leave them overnight you will not like the results!!

It really is a very effective cleaner for a lot of things. Good luck.

Chris.

Vinegar is very effective removing rust from bolts, hardware etc. I've soaked gas tanks with it prior to using Caswell epoxy. Tanks came out bare clean metal inside. Just be sure to rinse, neutralize with soda water then air dry. rust will start almost immediately so get the tank protected.:clap::clap:

If you dont want to waste fine wine, buy cheap bag of lemon acid in store.

So I took the carbs apart, cleaned them good and put everything back together, but now i dont get the spark :helpsmilie:

I tested the ignition coil and everything looks ok, I also borrowed another coil from a friend and still no spark. The sidestand, clutch and other switches are also fine. The one thing I noticed is that before, when I was starting it the rev light was coming on but went out as the engine fired up, now I dont get the rev light???

Go back and think what you have been moving around of the electrical wires when you removed carb, bad connection somewhere i recon. If you had spark before you remove carb, it doesnt dissapear over night by itself.

Could be a Stator or Pick-Up coil problem. (also known as Ignitor) This is attached to the Stator and can usually be replaced ... but you could also have a bad Stator (expensive)

Your manual may show testing procedures for both Stator and Pick Up coil ... but these tests do not always prove the problem decisively. Best to replace with KNOWN TO BE GOOD units.

Other issues could be:
A lose wire or connection?
One of the safety cut outs is blocking ignition:
Side Stand safety switch
Clutch switch
Neutral safety switch
key ignition unit and connections (wiggle wires under dash around switch)
fuse issue
Bad plug wire or connection

Good luck! bier

What model and year is your bike? Did you check your kill switch, I've been guilty of not noticing it in the off position myself.....

If you have an older bike, like 84 to 89, it will have the older CDI under the tank between the frame plates behind the steering head. There is a Black with white stripe wire. This is a kill wire that the ignition and the handlebar kill switch will ground to kill the engine. If you unplug it, that takes away anything kill wise that could be at fault.

If you have a side stand switch, follow the wiring up to where it plugs into the main harness, unplug both wires and on the harness side, plug the wires together as they are male and female. This will bypass the side stand switch. Check the multiple wires going to the stator, there is a plug and 2 individual wires. Make sure they are clean and seated well in the connectors.

If you have a newer TCI ignition it will have connection plugs built right in to the unit. I cannot speak to that as I've not had experience but same common sense approach to checking wires plugged in completely and not corroded.

Lets us know how it goes....
Steve

Its a 1992 xt 600E. I have checked all the wires the coil, the stator and all is in the specifid limits. I really have no clue where the fault is. I even have 12v coming to the coil and I wired a bulb to it and I think the bulb should go on and off, in my case its just blinking and not going completly off :confused1:

Your not low on power? try recharge battery for a day.

The battery is good, I also hooked it up to a car but remains the same...

And checked the main fuse? Rectifier?

The fuse is also ok.

Not sure about R/R though, but I think it doesnt have anything to do with the ignition?

Borrow a TCI unit from your friend and test.

If you measure the coil primary(+-) : 3,4-4,6 Ohm, secondary(spark plug lead -) 10,4-15,6 ohm

he has a 1998 xt, is the tci the same?

It shows 4,0 and 13,4

Honestly i dont know about that, do they have same connection? I see aftermarked are sold as replacement for both bikes. If you need any values or want me to test anything just let me know, have bike close to measure.

One more question, should the start switch be grounded? The switch itself works bu t isnt attached to the handlebar very firm, kind a wobley...

No thats ok, its just a switch for the relay. I have to ask again, was everything OK before you removed carb?

Checked and its ok. I will try to get the TCI as it looks like its the last thing that could be wrong. I opened it up and there is some corossion like stuff on some parts of it. If that turns out to be the problem, where do I look for it? are aftermarket TCIs available or does it have to be the original? Finding a cheap one is probably mission imposible:confused1:

You can fix the solderingpoints if thats gives bad connection, most people charge more for the used TCI than aftermarked. When searching for the TCI write CDI mostly used name on this on ebay.


CDI ECU Yamaha XT400E XT500E XT600E TT600E TT600RE Blackbox Ignitor CD4607D | eBay

http://www.zeeltronic.com/page/yamaha.php

Just an FYI, Zeeltronic is supposed to be designing a TCI replacement this year, If you will email him with a request, it may speed him up. He has been very busy with a major project and has not had time to work on it last time I inquired. If it is anything like the PCDI-XT he makes for the older Xt's, performance is definitely noticeably improved, especially at lower RPM's. This has been verified by others who have purchased the unit.

Worth a try. The company in Belgium makes a TCI replacement. Check eBay item number 330928197021


Steve

Thanks Steve. I was reading some posts from couple of years ago, and a guy named Borut came up. And looks like Borut is also Slovenian, so Ill also check with him, if he is still in business :cool4:

Its the same as i linked to from Wieltronic.

Borut is with Zeeltronic, a great guy....

Got the TCI from a friend today and it fired right up. It also Idles perfectly and runs great. Ill take my old one to an electroics expert tomorrow and hope he can fix it, otherwise ill just have to buy a new one...

Now thats one thing sorted, the other is the oil leakS. Its coming out at at least 5 places :mad3: And I still have to adjust the clutch as its not working perfectly.

OK!

So, I got the TCI, the bike runs :thumbup1:

But now Ive got a problem with the clutch. It works fine from low revs, the bike gets going, if I drive it slowly in any gear its all ok, but when I give gas the clutch engages for a few seconds all by itself???

Any ideas?

Problem solved!

When I was puting the clutch back on, I somehow missed one nut :oops2:

Annyway, the bike finally runs, and it runs great :clap:

Spokes
 

Do any of you guys know where could I get a complete set of wheel spokes for both wheels? I´ve been looking on ebay, but thats way too expensive. abot 100€ per wheel???

Buy original from Yamaha
dealer

Spoke Set, Front
3TB-25104-00-00 $67.16

Spoke Set, Rear
3TB-25304-00-00 $72.79

KEDO - Performance Products have heavy duty stainless steel spokes for around 80euro a set.

Ahh Crispy I am completely loving this post (the magic of seeing chrome come up all clean and that horror of leaving it in too long and seeing the Brass come through - memories!) If you're ever planning a Africa trip, give me a couple of years notice.

Isabel whilst you're fiddling try replacing the carb rubbers too.