xt600 fork seals, how to split forks
 

I have a 1985/86 xt600 kick and electric start. i believe it has later 3aj forks but they may be the original 1vj ones.
i need to do the fork seals a job i started 3 yrs ago when i stripped the bike down!! the problem is i cannot get the bolt loose in the bottom of the fork. the manual says use an impact gun with the fork assembled so the spring tension stops the insides from turning, (this hasnt worked) it says to use special tool if the above didnt work. it appears that the special tool is just an allen key t bar. if so does anyone know what size the allen key is, or if this is the figt approach.

desparate to get the bike back on its feet so i can continue the rebuild.


Thanks

Hiya smokin,
I'm not 100% sure of the size Allen that will be required, yet I am led to believe that it is 27mm external. Alternatively use a broom handle!
In the clymer it claims "Install the damper rod holder(part no YM01327) onto the long T-handle (part No YM-01301), You can substitute the long T-handle with a short socket wrench and a very long 3/8 inch drive extension".



Hope this is of help

You need to find someone with a proper air gun....

Not some piddley Aldi compressor job.


A tyre garage will have a big compressor and an impact air gun. It will spin out easily.

I used a piece of hex bar on a rod to hold the internals while loosening off the bottom....I ll see if I can find the size...

Its a 27 mm brass blank with a hole drilled in it and then filed square to fit on the end of an extension bar.....

I like the hex shaped brass stock idea.

Not having that when I did mine, I used a broom handle. Cut a taper section on the front down to about half the diameter.

Whack it in to the fork with a big hammer and then grip the shaft tightly with molegrips.

It worked a treat.

From the above I take it that

you are turning the bottom bolt around ... but the internals are turning with it. This is not uncommon. Is the fork still on the bike?

Yes. Ok .. put as much weight on the front end as possible to increase the force on the spring and thus onto the 'internals' to hold them while you turn the bottom bolt. If you spin it lots then you are simply grinding the two surfaces together to make it spin easier...STOP IT. And take it to someone who will help.

No. Similar to the 'Yes' answer - you need to compress the fork leg as much as possible to increase the force on the 'internals' so as to hold them stationary while you turn the bottom bolt. Some ratchet transport straps from the fork bottom (use the axle?) to the fork top (use the top tee?)

The impact driver simply uses speed (inertia of the internals) to get the job done.. if it spins with this then you'll have some metal filings to clean out.

Too Late for OP, but for anyone else
 

who needs to replace fork seals

like quick

like easy

take a look at this old thread I posted on ADVRider back in 2007

removing conventional fork seals without disassembly - ADVrider

complete with color pictures!!!

heed the warning about pulling the spring!!

Don't use air!!

both store energy and not if, but WHEN it slips, it will get released in a helluva hurry ... probably right into yer tenderest area :oops2: