XT600 Rear Suspension
 

Hi there. I own an XT 600 1989' (2KF). I 've made some improving modifications, or at least, that's what my intension.

I 've made a front suspension swap, with a full front end from Yamaha YZ 125 1990'. Upside down forks, 41mm (the red anodized ones), 300mm stroke. I have also changed the (tiny motocross) disc, along with the caliper, but that's irrelevant to my major concern right now.

I 've found a real bargain, an Ohlins rear shock from TT 600 S, 270mm stroke (the so called "Belgarda") with the UpsideDown Forks, not the "new" one with the conventional Paioli Forks, the TTR 600. I 've chosen the previous TT 600 Ohlins, cause it was -almost- a perfect match with my stock XT 600 shock, in both upper and lower ends (eyelet-hole on both sides, frame and swingarm linkages).

Here's the deal. Both shock absorbers, measure the same distance, 40 cm (400 mm) from upper, to lower eyelet. So, I thought I 'd just enjoy a better shock experience, without changing at all the geometry of the bike. Fact is, the YZ 125 front end, is not just a longer stroke fork, but it seems to be a longer-bigger fork, from top yoke to wheel axle distance. For example, the specific TT 600 that I used it's rear shock, has either a front end with the same "long" stroke (310mm), but for sure it is less "long-huge" from top yoke to wheel axle.

That was my initial thinking fault, same stroke does not mean same overall length of the front suspension. And now my bike is just like a custom, relaxed seat, chopper. The whole foockin' center of gravity is well backed up and down! Of course it's a matter of physics, I don't doubt, but the bike has become reluctant to lean (obvious) and when I ride the seat it gets even worse (pretty obvious too). I 've done some settings, lowered the top yoke (raised the forks through it), but as you 'd expect, no magic solution-balance appeared.

Due to "no dog bones" style of swingarm-linkage-shock, I can't intervene in the bottom part of the shock. So I am wondering about the top linkage (frame). I 've seen a couple of owners who have used, a special extra linkage (between the frame eyelet-hole and the top shock one). It seems that this gadget, reduces the stock distance that the shock mounts, and consequently forces it to "extend", to the only direction it is able-free... vertically...and that's it! The whole back-tail of the bike is lifted up!

Heckhöherlegung xt 600 | eBay

1) Have you ever tried it?
2) Do we have any alternatives in something like this?
3) What do the older-more experienced riders-mechs think about it?

I would appreciate every opinion, thought, idea, whatever helps...


PS. Ohh! I almost forgot. Through my bike "upgrading", I 've ordered a spare swingarm, a bit different. Mine (2KF) has an Iron one, so I bought and fitted an Aluminium one (43F) without disc, but with a drum. The Ohlins shock, is fitted in that swingarm. I am 99% sure that everything else ecxept from the aluminium, are totally same. The linkages, etc. I don't think it could interfere with my problem, bit is's better to mention it...

I bought one of those raiser blocks "Heckhöherlegung" of the German ebay. I needed the extra ground clearence for the things I do, so it has helped me a lot.

I also makes the bike look a bit more "motorcrossy", and not so much a gravel-tourer.

The first ride felt speciel because i sat differently on the bike, but that was it. I tried to remove it once to see the difference but didnt like, so mounted the raiser again.

Mines a 2003 model btw, heres an old pic of the shock removed with the raiserblock:

http://peecee.dk/uploads/122011/heck.JPG

Actually, it was your post in this forum that I 've seen.

Nice photo! Very usefull! I 've already seen another photo of yours, with your "uprised" bike, side by side with a stock one and the difference is pretty clear.

I can assume (from the above photo) that with that "gadget" installed, the top mount eyelet-hole, it "turns" 90 degrees and mount "vertically" in the "Heckhöherlegung", cause the "Heckhöherlegung" itself needs to mount the same way the shock did in the frame...(hope didn't confuse you)...

Anyway. I followed your initial link, I did found a reference to that "product", but it's not available right now, nowhere, nor the german ebay, or anywhere else. Pretty sad...

I have to thank you for the detailed photo. Suppose, you don't know any other place-eshop, whatever, that I can buy something like that...

I think that you can easily reproduce this just cutting a square section metal bar with the same sizes, would be really easy.

But before to do it, please verify how much you can extend the swingarm, before the leverage parts touch the frame. You could find that you cannot do a lot, maybe not more than one cm. Please note that it's better not having the linkage smash the frame at the end of its travel, to avoid frame cracks.

Before to start disassembling, I would work with paper and pencil, and do this:

check the distance between center of front wheel axle and top of fork tubes of the old fork, and compare to the size of the YZ one. You will get a difference. This is what you have to compensate. Then you can start to plan how to do this, as there are a few ways.
I had the same issue swapping a WR250 front end to my TT350. In my case, I extended the length of the frame tube (top side).

http://www.bikepics.com/members/b4nz4i/92tt350/

A more expensive but ultimately much better option would be to get a specialist to make you up a longer shock. If your budget could stretch to it you could get one with a ride height adjuster so you can fine tune the geometry (and get the forks sprung and valved to suit...)

Nice bike, Cyberzarbierindeed man...
I 've just measured the distance (wheel axle-top yoke)...:helpsmilie:
My stock XT 600 forks = 86+ centimetres
My new YZ 125 -//- = 91- -//-

Total difference = ~5 (five) centimetres.....(46-48 milimetres to be exact)

Regarding that even with the stock-factory front end, the back part of the bike was -already- kinda low and a lot of users without changing the front end, they although did fit an aftermarket shock (usually longer), I must be in seriousl trouble with 5 whole cm added to the equation...:confused1:

Please, let me be as noob as it takes...

I am watching at the interesting photos of Cyberzar. I am trying to understand, how the linkage works under load and what affection would happen if we were trying to fit a longer shock in the specific stock distance. I assume that the upper part of the swingarm linkage (the one that is facing backwards, to the rear wheel) should tend to touch the swingarm itself. For example, in Cyberzar's bike, there is a tiny little space (...about couple mm?) and is almost touching the main body of the swingarm. Suppose it is on the limit, on the edge of extension? Does this happen due to the longer shock? Or this is the "typical image" of a swingarm linkage, even with the stock-factory rear shock? (...please...try to be polite with a...non expert)

I 've taken some photos from my bike, although it's late evening here and the quality is not ideal, and I 've found that I too have an almost identical "image" of my upper part of the swingarm linkage. Almost touches the main body of swingarm. Is that a bad sign? Do I have any more "room" for a longer shock, or not? I 've also tried to take a photo of the lower part of that bloody swingarm linkage (tired of this worddoh). Seems there is more "room" in the bottom (I 'say -at least- 1 cm). Maybe I am lucky enough, and that specific space, between the lower linkage and the main swingarm body...defines the spare "room" I can take advantage?

(I 'll try to upload couple of photos)

Last one. What do you Cyberzar mean by:

"I extended the length of the frame tube (top side)."

In which direction? backwards? up verical? Any photos, please?:innocent:

Thanx again for sharing knowledge...

OK, Cyberzar. Think I got your point of modification.

I misunderstood about your bike. Thought it was an XT 350 and along with your WR front end, you also fitted an aluminium swingarm and that your reference about "extended length of frame tube", was about the rear shock mounting and I was trying to figure in which direction...blah-blah-blah...

Man! I am possesed! I always see -only- shock problems! Whatever I read, I think it's relevant with my shock problem:oops2:

PS. I am about to go to a machinist and order an exact copy of that damn thing. Hope he can build it...

+1 on that, there's a guy here in Australia who mods any Ohlins shock to hearts requirements, longer shorter, custom spring & valve.

It may seem an expensive solution but as my old fella used to say,,,"son, do it once & do it right" and he was right of course.

Search Google for KTM shocks (Ohlins) they are cheap as shit in the US, i was getting them for $30 to $50 a shot, get one longer than you need & they can shorten it pretty easy.

http://members.iinet.net.au/%7Emezo/...n%20Shock1.jpg

Mezo.

Hi Mezo. You are another one of my "heroes"bier Your XT revival project was my main inspiration, to restore my old and very first bike of mine. For over 7 years, I 've been cheating my beloved 2KF, with a modified YZF 1000 as a streetfighter. But now I am back:thumbup1:

I 've been looking for a long time about these types of rear shocks. You can find some excellent bargains. That's true. But in my set up, I 've left in it's place my stock airbox and as you can imagine...it's pretty difficult to suit a shock like that (with the bottle gas in side-top of it's mounting), into that restricted area.

Note that, I don't fix-repair-upgrade my bike in the back yard of my house, with my tools in my garage. Mostly I pay for everything to get done and truth is, I don't wanna spend a "fortune", cause I can't afford it. I 've paid for buying this shock, rebuild this shock, installed this shock. It's a pitty to just abandon any chance of setting it up correctly to my needs.

Anyway, nice to "see" you arround.

Remote reservoir?

...R U talkin' 2 me???....................:smartass:

Yeah, I 've fitted an Ohlins from TT 600 1996, with Remote Reservoir. Very handling...

I think you'll find KTM use WP suspension. Arent Ohlins part owned by Yamaha?

Used to be, for ~20 years. Ohlins is independant again, I think from 2008.

I 'll stretch all my options about the -already- fitted ohlins shock.

I keep this alternative solution (WP or other shock) back in my head, in only case I will fail to adjust the existing -nice- shock.

Nice you could use an old post. :)

Yeb, I understand, you simply twist the origial mountinghole 90 degrees. I out a screwdriver through the hole, and turned it, really simple :)

Yep remote reservoir is the way on XT`s as there's no room for the can hanging off the side, those shocks were on a DR650 project bike.

One my latest 34L projects (slow one) one of the bikes came with an Ohlins shock (was used in desert racing) with remote reservoir clamped to the frame.

http://i916.photobucket.com/albums/a...UILD/883_3.jpg

Standard shock next to the Ohlins.

http://i916.photobucket.com/albums/a...ILD/883_13.jpg

Mezo, and thanks for the compliment, dunno about "hero" but hopefully an inspiration for others to have a go at restoring.

where do you mount remote reservoir on the xt?

I just posted a picture where?

Mezo.

Rear shock (and remote reservoir) by TT 600 1996.

I 've chosen the left side of frame instead of the right, because of the proximity of the exhaust tubes (excessive heat) and also due to my kickstart.

No choice on a 34L as the oil cooler sits in that spot.

http://i916.photobucket.com/albums/a...D/610_6JPG.jpg

Mezo.

sorry for my absence , but im not here every day...

in my TT I made an extension in the top side of the frame fork tube, about 3 cm. In this way the top yoke is 3 cm higher, and fork tubes can go 3 cm more high. After this, you need to test, with fork tubes caps removed, that the weel does not touch the fender at full down position. And remember that now it-s easier with supermoto wheels, but you need to test this also with enduro wheels, if you plan to use them in the future!!!

I have this Works Performance in mine and it works great .

XT600E rear suspension-raisers: only available in Germany???
 

Absolutely no luck at all in getting one of these. My 'eBay-Deutschland' search has had the odd hit over the months, but the seller is never one who will send these (or anything??) out of Germany. :(

Are these only ever available in Germany - and, if so, will they only ever be found in Germany (unless Jens ever sells his)?? doh

Can anyone point me to a (reputable) source for these 'rear-suspension-raisers' for the XT600E that I can actually buy in/from the UK? Would be very grateful for any decent leads that anyone could give me in tracking down a good quality example that I can purchase. Anyone got one to sell, perhaps?

The reason you wont find them everywhere is that there not approved in any way, no "dot" no "tüv" ect...

If you do find one, let me know, perhaps its easier to make them ship the Item to me in Denmark, and I could ship it to you.

*EDIT*

Theres actually one know, I have contacted him and am waiting his reply.

Hi, theres one on ebay now.

Shiping from Germany to me in Denmark is 10euro, let me know if you need me to bid on this for you.

I'm also interested in such riser, but it's rather expensive. Can't it be reproduced? I mean, DIY would cost cents...

Sure if you have the skills it shouldn't be much of a problem, there seem to be a lot of buyers out there, so perhaps make a batch of em'? :D:D

When the weather gets warmer I think I will try and make at least one. I don't think it will be a big problem. If I succeed, I'll make some more.

Dimensions (and metal thickness) would help a lot, as I would not have to "guess" them. Especially how long it is (from center of one bolt to center of another bolt). And that unique shape it has, with one side cut off (to clear the frame?).

I guess it's a tight fit in the frame, or is it held just by those two bolts (unlikely)?

I realy need one of those :thumbup1:

Hey, Jens, you're an absolute gem of a fellow. :smile3: Have just PM'd you.

If I do get hold of one, Zergman, I'll get the Vernier callipers out and give you all the measurements and details. You're right, they are far too expensive for what they are and could probably be made up quite competently by somebody with regular equipment and some engineering nouse. And access to a hardware store for the square-section steel tube.

I look forward to Zergman Engineering Inc/Ltd/Pty/GmBh/SA/etc. [Careful on that ice, mate!].

Haha, thanks for your concern Bigfoot 2!
:offtopic: But no ice riding for me now. Fishermen drilled holes into ice and water seeped from below the ice, thuse freezing on top with a 3cm layer of ice at the top, and 8cm layer of snow-water mix below (between thick and thin ice). So riding is not very pleasant now, and not very comfortable (scary), since you are always breaking through the ice, and you never know for sure if it's just the top layer or not. Plus carb is still frosting up at temperatures lower than -5C...

I could make them longer/shorter than these "original" ones, and I probably would manage to make them without any measurements, but that's just too much "grind off, test fit, cut/grind off, test fit, cut/grind off, test fit.........."
I'm afraid square tube won't be tough enough to withstand the forces that occur when shock is "working". Unless it's with really thick walls, like 4-5mm thick.

Hope you guys win this auction: fingers crossed! bier

Hi, yeah the heckhöherlegung fits tight in the frame and is held on by a screw where the shock is normally mounted.

When/if somebody decides I have a small thing which could be altered, because the heckhöherlegung doesnt fit my aftermarket wilbers shock, i had to get the grinding disc out, and modifi it slightly, because the wilbers shock is built a little beefier.

Its easier to explain with pictures :)

EUR 52,56 !?!?!?!?!?!?!?!?!? :scared:

Did you guys get it? doh

I see that he immediately relisted the riser. He is either shill-bidding or he's making those risers? :confused1:

Re listed or not i thought that was a bit pricey lol for what it is.

Not me, squire - not at that price. More sense than money, me, clearly! (Unlike the buyer - if indeed there was one [picking up on your other comment]). The seller had it up there as a closed/private auction, which is often interpreted as done to mask any shenanigans that might go on.

I've think I may have more luck with a longer rear shock. At least that will actually be of some proper benefit and not just an insurance-gotcha. I rather lost all enthusiasm as the price went up and sensibility started to take over. If it wasn't done nefariously, someone surely had more money than sense.doh

Sorry, Zergman - not this time. (Not any time at that sort of price, mate :thumbdown:).

So... Has anyone successfully mounted a c.2.5cm longer shock from some bike or other onto an XT6E 4PT ???

:thumbdown:

Yeah - bonkers, eh? As you say, LOL indeed.

Just to be clear, it definitely wasn't me who bought it (and I haven't bought a private registration plate for the bike, either!) :innocent::innocent::innocent:
[I guess I wouldn't have admitted it if I had, though.]

"A bit"....? :eek3: yeah *cough cough*, I almost spit my tea all over the PC screen when I saw the selling price.

You're right Bigfoot, at that price it's better to save some more money and buy a shock that's going to be better, have more travel, etc. than just essentially lower the top mount of the shock.

I don't blame you mate, no one with a "healthy" common sense would have bought it at that price.

Jens, how nicely do we have to ask you to take all the measurements of that riser? :innocent:

I shall add it to my "things to make and do" list haha. A bit more travel/height would be useful though. So if anyone comes up with owt let me know :thumbup1:

Real' nicely....Like in shipping me beer and all :D

I'll consider it next time I have my bike apart, or change wheels ect. :thumbup1:

I'll send you some real ale from the local brewery here in north yorkshire (uk) its good stuff beer

Hi Jens, I'm a newbie and have been following your discussion and info about the mods to your XT600e with great interest. I have recently acquired a 2001 Xt600e with an Acerbis fuel tank and would like to do some of the mods that you've done on your bike. The rear suspension spacer/riser sounds like a simple, effective way to raise ground clearance and ride height a bit. I would also be extremely grateful to know the measurements of the spacer when you next get round to working on that part of the bike. Thank you for all your incredibly useful and inspiring information. Greetings from South Africa!

Aaarrrww..... I get all warm inside :innocent:

I'll see if I can find the time for it during Whit-holiday :thumbup1:

Thanks Jens! :thumbup1:

Too bad shipping would get pricey, I'm a machinist and have a full fab shop to work with. I could easily make those risers (I have an XT600 also for measurements). What would shipping across the pond from the states cost?

It's a small part so it shouldn't be too bad...I'm sure you would find many interested buyers if the price plus shipping is reasonable :cool4:

Hey guys, Im currently sick, I have no energy to do anything. Just sitting here feeling miserable. :(

I hope to find the time in te upcoming weekend

*EDIT*

Give me another couple of weeks folks :(

Here's the pictures, sorry for the delay. Hope its sufficient.

https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/...ise%20link.rar

Feel free to ask any questions.

Here is what i did, i cut of the lower part of suspension, welded on a bit of 1,3cm steel in same size as the original. It will give you a height increase of approx 2,5cm in the rear end. You must do this with precision because else you wont the suspension back in the frame.

xtrock... where are the pictures??? :P

Here you go: http://img12.imageshack.us/img12/3451/fryh.jpg

Uploaded with ImageShack.us

Here is pict of bike height: http://img545.imageshack.us/img545/7922/nng3.jpg

Uploaded with ImageShack.us

So guys....Pics are up.

Lots of talk about it, but who's gonna make some? It seemed like a hot topic some time ago, people were dying for some. :innocent:

Hey Jens, thanks so much! I haven't been able to open the pics yet (crap internet signal in the bush at the moment) but will have a good look when I get back to civilization. Definitely going to make one for my bike :thumbup1:

My computer cant open the file, what program i need?

winrar will unpack it, its a free program.

winrar.com

Same here with opening the pic. I'm on windows 8 and lots of free programs don't work or do bad things to the OS. If I make some I'd need a single place over there to send all in one and then they can be dispersed. I don't have good access to overseas shipping, when I asked through work for 1lb I was quoted $34.00US just to get to Germany(we used a general address). What ship company can be used?

Send from US is USPS International Price Calculator

Hmm , didn't think of the PO for international, still would add $24 to the cost , how much are these worth ??? I'm thinking I'll have about that much in them on my end. I generally make everthing out of stainless since I work in a stainless mfg shop.

I have payed less than 24 for small items send in a envelope usps, but couldnt find the alternative. I think it was about 14 for small items like that.

Hi Jens, I finally managed to download and save all the pics. Thank you very much for taking the time to post such a comprehensive set of photos with measurements.

how much do you want to make me one and ship it to the uk want one so badly

It would come out $40-$50 for one, but for 2 or 3 I would think I can go down to $30 or so due to shipping being spread out. It's the shipping that's the expensive part of me doing them.
I'd like a good drawing or something of what is needed, I'm not sure if the US XT shock setup is the same as everyone elses.
I've never been able to open Jens drawing up, My virus scan keeps calling the WINrad as a threat and I'm not going to force any download just for one picture. Nothing else I've tried even recognized the format.

Even an actual picture of some shock mounts with a couple simple measurements will work.

Winrar, winzip ect has been around for ages. Perhaps you just need to get it from a trusted source.

But I Will upload them here if thats The holdup :-)

Winrar, winzip ect has been around for ages. Perhaps you just need to get it from a trusted source.

But I'll upload them here if thats the holdup :-)

http://www.tenere.dk/forumnew/upload...9_18.02.42.jpg
http://www.tenere.dk/forumnew/upload...9_18.02.52.jpg
http://www.tenere.dk/forumnew/upload...9_18.02.59.jpg
http://www.tenere.dk/forumnew/upload...9_18.03.44.jpg
http://www.tenere.dk/forumnew/upload...9_18.04.14.jpg
http://www.tenere.dk/forumnew/upload...9_18.04.39.jpg
http://www.tenere.dk/forumnew/upload...9_18.04.57.jpg
http://www.tenere.dk/forumnew/upload...9_18.05.40.jpg
http://www.tenere.dk/forumnew/upload...9_18.07.01.jpg
http://www.tenere.dk/forumnew/upload...9_18.07.27.jpg
http://www.tenere.dk/forumnew/upload...9_18.07.51.jpg
http://www.tenere.dk/forumnew/upload...9_18.08.23.jpg
http://www.tenere.dk/forumnew/upload...9_18.08.26.jpg
http://www.tenere.dk/forumnew/upload...9_18.09.35.jpg
http://www.tenere.dk/forumnew/upload...9_18.10.27.jpg
http://www.tenere.dk/forumnew/upload...9_18.10.27.jpg


Now, who is building one for me? :D

I have one of these also, you only need 2mm thickness on the steel. The difference with welding the bottom is that you can choose the height, with these ones min. is 25mm raise and that gives 5cm in the rear? I welded in 13mm and got about 2,6cm in the rear.

http://img89.imageshack.us/img89/222/8rdi.jpg

Uploaded with ImageShack.us


http://img4.imageshack.us/img4/7466/owbd.jpg

Uploaded with ImageShack.us

Thanks, that's what I was picturing . Since I got this Windows 8 laptop, it is such a 'effed up operating system that I can't do much with it and nothing seem compatible with it. The computer doesn't ever allow me to do things how I want only what it says it wants, if that makes sense.


It does appear to be a bit different size than mine. The height that is needed was something I needed to ask. That one is 25mm, but would more be wanted,1.25(32mm),1.5"(38mm),1.75(44.5mm), or 50mm? I did Think of an adjustable one, but it would be a little long I think. The simplest would be to weld a solid chunk to a "U" shaped plate and then drill the holes, I have access to TIG welders for the SS. Otherwise I can cnc them out of solid.

I imagine the holes need to be at 90degrees from each other to keep it from pivoting in both bolts and folding over.
I'll make several of these and will need an address to send them to.

You cant go down like i said, the bolt wont fit unless you have this 25mm. And i dont think you like to raise the bike more than 5cm in the rear, you will change the way the bike handle in curves unless your weight is 150kg and you push it down like standard..

On all my quads I adjusted height and sometimes the leverage ratio by making longer or shorter link arms. It can be done with the bikes also, but they are a little more work sometimes. I'll have to look at mine to see how much trouble it is to make, some can be just lasered out plates. If I remember right, this one has bearings in it though.

I will need the width of the shock eye with the 2 spacers, where the bolt goes through. That is the ID I need to mill that area out to. I'm drawing it up in AutoCAD this morning.
I see XTrock's shock is different than Jens, are they all like that?

Mine is stock, Jens have a aftermarked Wilbers. You dont need spacers inside.. The top is 35,3mm and the inside of mine is 36,3mm

Mine is a Wilbers yes. You can actually see where i had do use a grinder to makee room for the beefier Wilbers shock.

So if someone is to make a batch of theese, it would be nice to make'em fit aftermarket shocks aswell.

Notice my first pic the metal thats grinded away, just under the hole. Had to do that on both sides. It Shouldn't compromise the stenght.

Jens did you have to cut on top of this too? Dont you get the correct angle of the shock if the top is like the one i have?

Didnt cut the top, it fit perfectly like it came. Im actually not sure if would fit with a squared top like yours, but I might be wrong.

Ok, i will check it out in some days when i change shock.

I have the shock off now and i found out that the top of shock is 35mm, i see yours is 24,6 + 10mm walls= 34,6 is this correct Jens?. You dont need the long cut on the top, but it cant be suare, a little off on the side to engine side.

Seems right yes, tried to meassure the best I could :)

Ok, to fit the ones that is sold from ebay Germany you will have to fit a two shims 2mm on the top if you want to get it in center and not moving. I grinded the end of the top in front 1mm and its ok straight down to the fitting bottom. Wilbers can make special heights and adjustable if i understood them correctly. Jens what is the biggest change from stock? Its pretty expnsive, here about 600,- Pound

My raiser-thing is one of the ebay ones. Just so were all clear on that. :)

Mine is one of the cheaper wilbers solution, no external reservoir ect. Theres only rebound adjustement, and ofcourse the preload on the spring to adjust.

Compared to my fully functional stock shock, not that much of a difference. But I really like it

This is how the bike looks with the raiser, dont think you wont to get it any higher. If you are approx 180 this is perfect, you get flat foot on the ground.

http://img405.imageshack.us/img405/8054/2ysi.jpg

Uploaded with ImageShack.us

How good does it look, my bike is exactly the same and I will be doing this suspension adjustment, and tips in the end?

Hi Mr xtrocks,

How did the tail riser block thingy you made in this thread work after it had been on your bike for a while?

Hi, its been great. Have one shock with welded raise of 1,5cm and the raiser that gives 2cm. I think bike looks much better with this on.

It looks like the welded extension is probably an easier adjustment...just to clarify, do you have both the block and the extension on the one shock, so a total of 35mm increase...

Photo of my wheelie machine attached

Thanks for the advice, most appreciated.Attachment 14366

No only one, recomend use of the one on the top, much easier. If you raise more than 2cm on shock it will be to much. Nice color on the bike:thumbup1: And welcome to the the site.

xtrock... love the height of the bike,,, thats exactly what am looking for...

Thanks, go for the raiser that i have in a picture earlier then you get the same height.

With the increased ride height but not increased suspension travel, does this stop the brake caliper denting exhaust silencers ?

Dont understand how the caliper can dent exhaust?

1993 XTe
 

Aftermarket shock that isn't $300-$400?
Any ideas what might work?
16K miles and getting a bit boggy.

Just a quick bump as I am also interested in new rear shock but I am struggling to find one that isn't going to break the bank. (mines got a permanent squeak)

ian

Sorry mate, dont think they exist. But perhaps a nice used one on the bay?

Wilbers ecoline is about the cheapest I can think of.

Thanks Jens

Digging up and old thread, but I know everyone wants better suspension in these old beasts, so I want to share some info I have come accross.
A mate of mine who has owned and worked on a multitude of different old yamaha models with me, in our quests for a good old bike has come accross what might be a great solution for our rear ends.
So the bikes in question - xt600s, tt350, tt250, dt200 and now his 92model wr250, have all had the issue that the rear shock is not nice to work on, always undersprung from factory, and once you add a decent spring the damping, especially rebound circuit cannot cope with the additional spring force... and you have a wallowy rear end.
I have also read several threads of people with teneres and XT's who had to REALLY up the spring rate to allow for luggage, and they ended up snapping the end off their shocks because the rebound was doing nothing…. So having a usable rebound circuit is a vital step in keeping the old shock instead of buggerising around with substituting something else in there.
Anyway the solution for his wr250 was very simple, he replaced the shock oil with 5w. In talking with an old yamaha guru they came to the realisation that the shock "oil" in these shocks (supposedly non-rebuildable) is thinner than water from the factory, and by putting a very standard 5w shock oil in he has a rear end with a good range of adjustability and its better than the KTM and Husky that he owned (when he turned away from Yamaha for a few years in the search for the ideal bike).
So anyway I thought I would share this with everyone as I know the suspension discussion is always interesting with these old girls. Once I have my bike going I will look into doing this myself.

And how do you change oil on the XT600 shock?

That is the main issue , they don't lend themselves to being serviced very well since they were never designed to be. The WR's was probably "rebuildable" so it's more doable , but is an interesting idea . I'd have thought it would need to be more like 10w or 12w oil.

The wr250r actually has a decent spring rate, but the internet-story is that theres way to much rebound, becuase of too small/few shims.

Change the oil and get better than KTM suspention...? Sorry, dont believe it :) But nice on you that it worked for you.

Did anybody ever make some raiser blocks?
I've found myself to need one, anyone willing to sell?

Guess you mean something like this -
https://static-01.daraz.pk/p/dd54c6c...0q80.jpg_.webp

I don't know why, but used to find myself with some mistrust of such system when it's about a bigger bike with single shocker..

on the other hand, I remember parking issues while having some load on the bike (even during few days trip) when on the flat surface bike stayed just vertical on the kickstand and had to find bit sloped surface to park it securely..

yes, I haven't got a center stand yet (still considering about weight) and like to have preload adjusted somewhere middle (standard shocker).

so, sorry for any interference with my questions, but do such blocks work safely on xt600-sized bikes?
if yes, where it's better to mount them, on the top or on the bottom of the shocker?
any recommendations about material?

I'm not a tall one but after your post I started to think more and more that if a raiser works safe and trouble-free, it would solve that parking issues as well as grant some clearance when bike is loaded...

Any suggestions where to get a raiser block/kit for my 1999 XT600E? Does the Heckhöherlegung mentioned in this thread fit this model? Thanks