Xt600 Suspension Linkage
 

Hi

I'm posting for some advice please...

The needle bearing/bush in the relay arm/connecting rod linkage on my bike is worn and will need renewing for the dreaded MOT. I have the Clymer manual and am just about to strip down the bike, but there isn't much guidance about the press to press-in/out the bearings/bush. Has anyone done this job? if so some advice on a DIY press or whether its better to take the component to an engineering shop would be gratefully appreciated!

Thanks
Bish

Hi,
I rebuilt the rear suspension linkage on my xt600. I got a machine shop to re-bush the pivot arm and connecting rod with bushes made of phosphor bronze. I got the needle roller bearings from yamaha. This worked out to be a cheaper and more durable way of fixing the suspension than buying lots of new parts. This work shouldn't be a problem for any competent engineering shop.

Hi Bish

It's probobaly better to find someone with a proper press, but I managed to do it (using all Yamaha parts) pressing the old bushes out and the new bushes in using a bench vice and a socket that happened to be the right outside diameter, though I did have to extend it's handle with some tube for extra leaverage.

If you do it yourself put the new spacers in the freezer the night before, every litle helps!

Good luck

Lama

Thanks Paul & Lama

Have now stripped down & the needle bearings/bush completely worn out and running in a nice mixed of grit & dirt. I'll drop the swingarm and have a go at extracting the bush, if that fails... the machine shop beckons. The XT600E linkage doesn't have a greased pivot bolt for this joint, not surprising that it's knackered really, so I'll have to source an older models bolt - the Clymer manual shows this on an '89 model, so I guess I'll have to go for one of those...

Bish

I think I descovered the same with one of the suspension bolts, but when I tried to order the older one with grease nipple, it had been superceided by the one without!

So I had a machine shop drill, cross-drill and tap the new bolt, giving them the old one as a pattern, only cost a couple of pounds so well worth the effort compared to the effort & cost of replacing prematurly worn out linkage again, unless of course you are keen enough to keep stripping the linkages to grease them!

And if you're at a machine shop to get the bolt done, might as well have them pres out & replace the old bushes / consider the phosper bronze option

Lama

Bish

One more thought

Are you sure that the grease nipple hasn't just moved onto the linkage are?

Lama

Lama

Thanks - I'll definitely be looking to get a bolt sorted for greasing the bearing, otherwise it will be an annual replacement with the offroad use my bike gets. The greasing point on the relay arm is the middle swinging arm joint which in effect is just a plain bearing. Having stripped it all down, not surprisingly all the (still) greasy joints are fine (no wear) and this one totally u/s - a bit of a short sighted cost saving by Yamaha...

Cheers
Bish

I know I am rather late in the discussion, but the older ones have been replaced with the one without nipple and grease channel because they tend to break inthe middel where the grease channel is. If you make long trips with the old type with the channel make sure to carry a spare. Alternatively, for instance when you replace the chain, disassemble, clean and regrease.

Auke

Auke

Thanks for the advice - I've already ordered an old grease channel one and will give a try (but take the spare bolt with me!) I don't regularly do long trips but use the bike for trailriding off-road most weeks - 110 -150Kmh normally, and the lack of grease and lots of mud & water mean the needle bearings get damaged pretty quickly. At least with the grease version I can pack it after each ride and hopefully make the bearings last a few years...

Cheers
Bish

Thanks for the advice from everyone - suspension stripped and sorted, the needle bearing pressed out/in with sockets & a vice - took all of 5 minutes! The original greased bolt for that linkage is still available (I'll bear in mind Auke's advice regards it's strength) and fitted perfectly - if anyone's interested the part numbers are:
Bolt: 90109-10759
Washer: 90201-10M05
Nut: 90185-10120
Grease nipple: 93700-06M03