I had posted on ADV that it sounds like the pick up coil/pulse gen failing . It still sounds likely with the numbers posted the resistance was good cold but went way high and out of spec as it got warm, may not be an issue. However I see here it has been said that it can get above that stumble and run high rpms fine . That's odd. From the other site I understood it would only get to the certain rpm range and not go above. These TCI's are fairly solid reliable and I've not heard of one failing , but an overjuiced one could have issues. At this point I'd definitely try to find a known good one to swap , wouldn't take but a couple minutes if you know anyone with one of these bikes.


I got your video to play this morning , watching it is difficult to see. If the motor is warmed up does it run on full choke like that ? When you had the choke all the way out it seemed to run up the rpms fine , did it ? The way your video showed it seemed more fueling than anything but the miss had some strange sounds that's hard to pinpoint. Some finer description of what it's doing at what settings ,choke-no choke, hot/cold ect.. fast throttle twist or slow twist . More precise info will help .

The university technician I mentioned has a couple of 550s, I'm not sure if their CDI/TCI is a match for this one. It looks like the 550s motor is similar to the 600, and I couldn't see points on top of the cam shaft, so it could be a pickup coil set-up.

The details of how the bike operates:

Engine cold
When the engine is cold, it's a bit difficult to start, but with the choke on it will fire up. It may die for a second, but it will start again no problem.
When the engine is cold, giving a bit of throttle will make it sputter and misfire bad, and it will not be able to go over the 2-3.5k rpm or even die. Unless you put the choke on, then it goes to 3-3.5, and you can drive it on choke, but obviously its just counter-intuitive to make the engine do that.

Engine hot
When the engine is hot, it's easy to start, both with and without the choke. It will rev higher when the choke is on and the engine is warm at 3.5-4k rpm.
When off the choke if you blip the throttle it will go over the 2-3.5k rpm and can stay higher, but if you go slow on the throttle it will die ones it reaches that rpm range.


You can also see that the pickup coil is within spec when it cold and hot with and without the ignition switch on. But that being said when you give it throttle or the bike runs it goes out of spec...I'm not sure if this is how the procedure for measuring it goes or if I should even concern myself with how much resistance there is while the bike runs...I just don't know.
In any case once the new carb arrives, that should eliminate the carb issue...if I really have to and the only thing I am certain that is left is the tci box then I'll get a new one, otherwise I'll try and see if the technicians tci boxes will fit.


EDIT
On the tenere forums, user drumnagorrach:

Just got 225 on mine with the injun cold . The fact that it runs seems to suggest that the pickup is working ,all it has to do is tell the ignition unit when to fire and ,not sure about this ,but how fast the injun is spinning .
On my Ducati and my Guzzi there is a crank speed sensor as well as crank position , but then they are both "dodgy Italian " systems which strangely have never given me any grief ,although vastly inferior to Japanese electrics !!!

He has a similar issue, but not as bad as mine, so our pickup coils have a similar resistance... at least when the engine is cold.

Measure is done with ignition OFF.

Thanks for that, also I'll be adding information to the initial post as I progress, this should help in the future if anyone has a similar issue to find all the information condensed in one spot. Let me know if I should add anything else, or if I've missed a crucial bit of information.

Any difference when you open the gap to 7mm?

The 550 cdi won't work on your bike . The 550 similar to the mid to late '80's kick start 600's but once they switched to E-start the cdi changed to a TCI setup, The kick start models run ignition off the stator and can be ridden with a dead battery(or even without ) , yours however runs strictly off the battery and the stator simply charges the battery so voltage is important to how it runs. You'll need a TCI from a '96ish thru 2006 ??? 4PT model IIRC.

A failing pick up coil may or may not completely shut it down depending how it's failing.Quite often yes that is the case. But It reads the leading edge of the signal block on the flywheel for timing , but also looks for the trailing edge and by the amount of time between front to back edge is engine speed for tci to know how much to advance. It need a crisp signal to send and may not read good at certain rpms. I believe there is more to it than that but I'm not great on these electricals. I'm leaning away from this being the cause though.

By the way it will run on choke , even if it is warmed up ,isn't quite right. They should sputter, spit, and flood out rather quick when warm . The newer CV and CVK carbs have enrichment circuits rather than chokes so they add air along with fuel , those will run at a much higher rpm when "choked" , but these carbs don't , unless the newer versions changed , all of mine shut down if I pull the choke and are flooded when warm. We don't have the newer carb over here so I don't know if they changed , someone over there know ?

Sounds like an ignition advance problem to me. (assuming you've done a proper job on the carb - You've swapped everything else you can... Check your coil wires are on the right way around if they can be swapped.)

That can be caused by the pulse generator or the CDI/TCI

An ignition timing gun is only £25 on Ebay. It's not hard to check.


Any engine work carried out ?? Cam timing okay ?

I think the most likely culprit at this point is the TCI, if the bike runs the same with the new carb, then I can almost certainly say it's the TCI.

I think you are right, it should be the TCI, the resistances on the pickup coil seem within spec. So at this moment of time I'm pretty convinced it's the TCI, but obviously that's just guess work, I'll see if I can find a timing gun, my finances are running low for the month.
Would the coil really have the engine running so bad ?
Would it not just..not run if I had the wires the other way?
What do you mean by cam timing ? I haven't opened the engine apart from the head cover, that was to change the oil seals on the valves, because it smoked on start up. I haven't messed about with anything else in there and I changed the oil after I worked on it and made sure nothing fell into the engine.

I have TCI box for you, but iam in Norway so if you are close come pick it up :) So you changed valve seals without removing head, what tool for removing springs? compressed air in chaimber?

Thanks for the offer hahah :D....but we have just a little sea separating us :D
I'm in Scotland ^^

JJ

just found out Tiggs, on the adv forum, had a similar problem although his was quite severe...I'll try and ground it and see if that changes/improves anything...it's worth a try

Also did you ever start/complete that build you were talking about back in 2013?

Also happy Valentines everyone!...hahahah...I'm so alone..

Back in the old days the distance between us was no problem, so find a boat and do like the vikings:welcome:

Sounds to me like you have checked out the problem in a logical way. First, carb and fuel/air supply. At one point even changing the carb completely only to be left with the same problem. If it was air/fuel supply, the symptoms would have changed measurably even if the problem remained. So, assume it is NOT the carb...

Next logical thing to troubleshoot is the electrical system. You replaced the coil, reg/rect, spark plug, leads and pretty much everything else in the ignition system. This also made no difference at all.

As the problem occurs in the rev range when ignition advances, anything that controls advance could be the culprit.- TCI and also the sensor in the front of the stator. Many TCI/CDI systems have 2 circuits (one for retard and one for advance) rather than an actual curve, so there is one possibility (dead advance circuit in TCI or the sensor which is part of the stator). Me - I'm too dumb to bench test a TCI so replacing it with a known working unit is the best option.

A left field suggestion...
1. a rat may have crawled up the exhaust pipe and died. It's amazing how much crap a family of rodents can pack into an exhaust pipe. This will have the effect of reducing the amount of exhaust gases that can leave the system and has a similar effect to limiting the air inlet. This happened to me when I restored an old Yamaha XS750 (with straight-through pipes). Had me absolutely stumped why the bike would not run. Took of the pipes and extracted about 10 litres of "rat house" from the straight-through pipes. After that the bike ran flawlessly.

I wouldn't miss an opportunity to wear a funky hat and kill in the name of Odin hahahah bier