First, let me say that *I* don't think it's that crazy!

Hello,

I am currently in the proccess of restoring my 1964 VW SO32 "Hatch Top" Westfalia camper. The central theme around my restoration is the idea of some day doing a RTW trip with it.

Along with general restoration and repair work to the chassis, I am following a VW-Factory published guide from the 70's titled "Driving Your Transporter in Extreme Conditions". It has detailed plans for things like adding bash plates, bull bars, intake snorkel, how to safely modify the suspension for more serious off-road travel, tips on spares, driving teqniques, etc. I believe this text was originally published for the South American and South Africa VW markets, where the Transporters were quite popular.

My question is more regarding the practicality in this day and age. I know a gas (er, "petrol") vehicle is considered sub-optimal, however a diesel power plant is not possible in the "split window" chassis without EXTENSIVE modification. My main quandary revolves around wether or not to build a completly STOCK motor, which would be very simple, and easy to maintain but not very powerful (50hp) and shorter-lived; OR building a more "modern" air-cooled boxer motor, one with tight tolerance, hydraulic lifters, a fuel-injection system etc. This motor would be more complicated and costly, but MAYBE less troublesome (especially at high altitude) and last much longer.

The other possible concern is that it is not 4WD, however that has yet to be an issue even on some pretty technical "4WD Only" trails here in the US. I've made a number of yuppies in $40,000 SUV's look pretty silly, in front of their women no less.

My reasons for taking the old bus VS. say, one of my many motorcycles is that the bus provides lodging where ever we happen to be, and it's much harder to fall over on sharp rocks in a vehicle with 4 wheels. I am mechanically competent and am confident I could handle any road-side repair needed. (except perhaps for total catastrophic engine failure, ie: parts on the road, but even that could be dealt with) I'm no stranger to pulling VW motors on the side of the road eh! I'd also have on-hand a full kitchen and fridge for food prep/storage, and a much greater cargo capacity than a bike. We'd also stay much drier in the rain, even with those leaky safari windscreens.

This idea is still in its fledgling stages, so please add your thoughts & comments!

Thanks!
Brian

Brian,

Sounds like a cool idea! As far as the motor goes, I would put a larger one in. I have a lot of experience racing off road with VW based buggies, and a motor like a 1776cc or 2.3L that has been put together properly will last a very long time. you can also build a fully aftermarket motor with an aluminium alloy block which is stronger than the VW magnesium alloy block. Just keep in mind the more custom parts you put on, the harder it will be to replace them in the bush. I've never used fuel injection on those motors, so I don't know how that would work. The off-road racing industry in CA will have tons of motor parts and suspension parts that would be very useful to you.

As long as you have long range tanks or lots of jerries, running petrol instead of diesel shouldn't be a problem.

Sounds like a great project, have fun with it!

cheers

Graham
www.africaoverland.org

__________________
Graham 'Cracker'
Director: Overland Training
Editor: Overland Journal
Instigator: Africa Overland

I was thinking the same about the block, but going larger than 1776 would be a no-no in my book. Especially a 2.3L, which would require hacking a Type 4 motor into the splittie, and double, possibly tripple the drive-train building costs.

I cruise comfortably at 60mph with my bone-stock 44hp, 1500SP motor, and the only "real" reason for such a large engine would be more top-speed which I would consider un-usable during most of a RTW journey.

Right now I'm thinking of something like a new aluminium case (hydraulic lifter), 1776cc displacement, couter-weighted crank, new aftermarket heads, a MILD cam for more low-end torque, full-flow oil filtering, a T4 oil cooler, and of course everything balanced and blue printed to death.

Bolt-ons would include electronic ignition (009 dizzy kept as back-up), a stock Type 1 beetle style exhaust (for the ground clearance), an Australian-market cyclonic/oil bath air filter, intake snorkel, and Type 181 Thing style engine bash-guards. Aspiration is still up in the air - carburetor? (and what kind - stock PICT 3?), or an after-market fuel injection system?

The fuel situation is a little trickier. I'm thinking right now of a custom-made fuel tank in the stock location. With carefull design I should get at least 16 US Gal. out of the space, then carry at least 2 5-US Gal Jerry cans on the roof rack. Under normal conditions this would give a range of approx. 520 miles (the ole' Turk get about 26 mi/gal with a bare roof, and 20-21 mi/gal at wrose with a loaded roof rack). Possibly more since I don't expect to be cruising at 60mph very much.

Other mods I have in mind now are the addition of sunroof & double-door model Type 2 "belly pans" to the frame; transaxle, reduction gear box, and steering box bash plates; a 68-71 type 2 ball-joint front beam, heavy duty rear torsion bars from high roof/ambulance/fire truck type 2 models; dual-circuit brake system from a 71 Type 2, and a custom-made full length metal roof rack for extra cargo and a "shade tarpulin" support. (also for carrying various impliments of 4x4in' like jacks, stakes, sand tracks, etc). There will also be big knarly bull-bars/roo-bars front and rear.

Interior mods will include a dual battery system, inverters for accessory power (laptop power, cell phones, navigation, etc), converting the "ice box" into a bona-fide "3-way refer", a gas fired furnace for heat, propane bottle gas for cooking/refrigeration/lighting, etc., moisture-repelling insulation (to prevent future rust), and a hidden, secure storage compartment of some sort.

Did I forget anything? ;-)

Brian

Brian,

Sounds like you are on top of everything. I prefer the kingpin front beam to the ball joint one. Can get a bit more travel, and I've had ball joint beams fail on bugs let alone vans.

1776cc would be a great motor for that vehicle. Should get you to 60mph without much hassle and last a long time.

500miles of range will most likely do you. Most I used in Africa was 760miles, but that was by choice in Mauritania. Ovbiously the more range you have, the more you'll use it.

cheers

Graham
www.africaoverland.org

__________________
Graham 'Cracker'
Director: Overland Training
Editor: Overland Journal
Instigator: Africa Overland