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4 Wheels Travel Reports Post your overland travel reports for a weekend trip or around the world. Please make the first words of the title WHERE the trip is. Please do NOT just post a link to your site. For a link, see Get a Link.
Photo by Lois Pryce, schoolkids in Algeria

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Photo of Lois Pryce, UK
and schoolkids in Algeria



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  #1  
Old 22 Jan 2013
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Join Date: Oct 2012
Location: Driving the Pan Am to Argentina from Seatte
Posts: 11
Chile's Lakes District


Start: December 12, Pucon
Finish: December 23, Puerto Montt
Grills Used For One Dinner: 5
Four-Legged Road Blocks Overcome: 2
Days With Rain: 9 of 12
Fish Caught: 0

The weather has finally caught up to us. I can count the number of times we've had more than two consecutive days of rain on one hand. Our time in the Lakes District brought us six consecutive days of rain and a lot of soggy gear. But we're from Seattle, meaning we don't believe in umbrellas, and we know how to shop for good rain jackets.

We did our best to make the most of our time in Chile's Lakes District. We started with a few days spent hanging out with friends old and new that culminated in a barbeque nearly rivaling our Thanksgiving pig roast. From Pucon we drove through the back roads to visit a handful of other lakes and rivers en route to Puerto Montt with the hopes of catching a couple world famous Patagonian trout.


Our campsite in Pucon with our friends Mark and Sarah at FromAtoB.org and their gigantic rig that's aptly named the beast. I've pitched my tent in its shadow a couple times now and can definitely say it makes for a good wind break and gives plenty of shade from that pesky morning sun.


Also in our campsite are the Pickerings at ChaseTheRace.net, a couple from England with their three children. As you can see, this 6x6 monstrocity dwarfs even The Beast and plans to follow the Dakar this year. I can't blame them for the size though. As kids Jessica and I went on an RVing trip across the US and can say from experience that you need a heck of a lot of space when there are youngin's on board.


After battling a day of rain, the weather breaks and we wake to sunny blue skies. Perfect weather for a barbeque. Above we have five grills in action, by far the most fire juggling I've ever attempted. Cornbread, potatoes, carrots, corn, peppers, onions, four racks of baby back ribs, one gigantic chunk of pork spare ribs and two whole chickens are on the menu.


To give the adults a bit of peace and quite from the kiddies' shenanigans (often involving a water gun, decided not cheeky or fun in cold weather) Kobus sets off on a mission to teach them how to fish. Small trout are seen, but nothing is brought to shore.


Joining us for our epic dinner along with the Pickerings and Mark and Sarah are two ex-overlanding friends we met in Pucon from South Africa and Australia. They started their trip driving a van but nearly ended with disaster after it caught fire and nearly burned to the ground as a result of brake failure. Luckily no one was injured and they managed to salvage most of their gear and continue the trip as backpackers.


From Pucon we take the back roads towards Lago Ranco following dirt roads through rural Chilean towns. More than once we encounter a Latin American road block, this time in the form of a couple dozen sheep.


Along the way we also stop to take a picture of this ancient steam engine sitting in a field in the middle of nowhere. Steampunk fans eat your heart out.


We camped next to another set of waterfalls called Salto del Nilahue near Lago Ranco. It was a short five minute walk down to he falls from our campsite, but it proved impossible to get any closer than we stand above due to the rain-filled river.


The river bank was coated with pummice rocks which provided a half hour of entertainment for a few bored campers. Floating rocks are fun!


Back on the road to Lago Ranco we hit yet another road block. Kobus wisely pulls over to let the gauchos steer their steers clear of our path.


At Lago Ranco we have two of the worst days of weather we've had since leaving Oregon. Above is a shot of Lago Ranco and the two-foot wind-driven waves crashing along the shore. Luckily the campground had shelters with wind breaks and we were able to hole up under cover and spend a day getting work done on our laptops.


For dinner Kobus experimented with a recipe we learned from the Pickerings during our stay in Pucon. They learned it from an Argentinian cookbook and gave us a sample of their first attempt at the recipe. Certainly not the cleanest way to cook a chicken, but the results were good enough that we knew we'd have to give it a shot.


After seasoning and safely wrapping in foil, the chicken is covered with mud and cooked for a couple hours on charcoal. The results were spectacular, as expected, although doing the dishes was decidedly less fun.


After two wet and windy days on Lago Ranco we head to Puerto Montt where we spend a day and half running errands including filling up our propane tank, checking out the ferry schedule for Chiloe and doing a bit of Christmas shopping. The weather in Puerto Montt proved to be no better than farther north, so we hunkered down under our newly purchased tarp and hoped the sun would make an appearance in time for the holidays.


Before heading to Chiloe for Christmas we drove east of Puerto Montt along the start of the Carretera Austral to a campsite on a river. We had hoped to finally catch a couple Patagonian trout. Unfortunately, the rain followed us.


The river was too blown-out to be very good fishing. It rose at least a foot and a half in the day since we arrived, and was moving way too fast for wading or fly fishing. Oh well. At least we got to thoroughly test out our rain gear.

Our last day on the river the campsite host drove by several times to check on us and make sure we were ok. He told us that the rising river was often a problem given where we had camped, and that we should move to higher ground. Eyeballing the water level, I gave us 2-3 feet more until the river was at our doorstep.

It wasn't raining hard, it was just raining frequently, so we decided to wait it out and watch the water level over the next couple hours before deciding to move. Fortunately, after our host returned for the third time and pleaded with us to move, the rain stopped. By the time we woke up in the morning the river was back to its original level.



Up next: We load Blue up on a ferry to the island of Chiloe where we spent Christmas in the rain with old and new overlanding friends.
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  #2  
Old 19 Feb 2013
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Join Date: Oct 2012
Location: Driving the Pan Am to Argentina from Seatte
Posts: 11
For Sale: 1997 Toyota 4Runner in Buenos Aires

Hi all. We've finally decided after driving from Seattle to Ushuaia to sell our beloved 4Runner. Our vehicle will be available approximately April 15th in Buenos Aires. It is a US registered vehicle (to Washington State). We are working on writing on the logistics of the transfer of ownership. At this time we know for certain that because of the cost of import taxes the vehicle is NOT available to Argentinians. It will be very easy to re-register if you plan to drive it back to the USA. (Either in Washington or another state).

Full details are below. We are asking $10,000 USD. If interested email us at info@liferemotely.com.

For more information and photos see our full post on our website here.



1997 Toyota 4Runner SR5 Specifications

-V6 3.4 L engine
-4 speed automatic transmission
-4x4 on demand drive with over drive
-Currently 173,000 miles (Approximately 176,000 on sell date)
-Unleaded Fuel- We have averaged 18 miles to the gallon on this trip between Seattle and Ushuaia (Ask me for the spreadsheet!)

Modifications

(Click links to see our full articles on these installations)

-Dual battery system, including fridge and inverter.
-Custom built Lock box
-Storage platform
-Viper 2-way alarm system

Note on the fridge system: We removed half of the back seat in order to mount our fridge. Just behind the fridge we installed a lock box big enough to hold three 15" laptops. Both the fridge and lock box are removable. There are three comfortable seats in the vehicle. See the articles above for more photos of the platform and the lock box and fridge configuration.

Service History

We have a full service history of the work completed after October 2011 available with the car. All previous work including the full service history of the previous owner is at our home in Seattle. Electronic documents can be provided upon request.

- Full synthetic oil change (with filters) – December 2012
- Rear coil spring upgraded – October 2012
- Front brakes replaced – July 2012
- Axle seals and rear breaks replaced – February 2012
- New tires (Firestone Destination A/T) with wheel alignment – October 2011
- Upgraded to Bilstein shock absorbers – October 2011
- 120,000 mile service completed at Toyota Serivce Center in Seattle – October 2011
- Timing belt, water pump replaced by previous owner (around 100,000 miles)

Included Extras

- Edge Star 43 quart compressor driven fridge
- Cobra 800 watt power inverter powered from the secondary battery
- Hi-lift jack
- Lift-Mate
- Snatch / tow strap
- Roof rack
- 4 ratchet tie downs
- Locking cable (secures hi-lift on roof rack)
- Air compressor
- Jumper cables
- Tire repair kit
- Volt meter
- Fire extinguisher
- 2 warning triangles

Spare Parts

- Fan belt
- AC belt
- Water pump belt
- Fuses
- Gas cap

Overlander Extras

- Collapsible camp table
- 2x GSI folding camp chairs
- 3 kg propane tank
- Colman dual burner propane stove
- Gerber fold up shovel
- 2.5 gallon water jug
- Others TBD (ask for details)

For more information and photos see our full post on our website here.
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  #3  
Old 26 Feb 2013
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Join Date: Oct 2012
Location: Driving the Pan Am to Argentina from Seatte
Posts: 11
Vehicle sale update

Just an update. We've posted a gallery of recent photos here: 1997 Toyota 4Runner for sale - photos | Life Remotely

And also an article on how the owner transfer process would work here: Selling a US Registered Vehicle to a Foreigner in Argentina | Life Remotely

Thanks!
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  #4  
Old 28 Feb 2013
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Join Date: Feb 2011
Location: In Ireland, Working to save for the next trip
Posts: 291
Are you heading directly to BA? Cannot believe we have missed each other after all these months of keeping an eye on your blog. We're in Chile, heading north....

Merv, of Moglander clan.
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  #5  
Old 2 Mar 2013
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Join Date: Oct 2012
Posts: 42
Hey Merv!
We thought we'd catch you heading north on the 40, but I think maybe you went to Chile before we arrived. We are in Bariloche now. Plan to enjoy the lakes north of here for a few weeks and then head to Buenos Aires. Maybe add on Uruguay and Brazil for another month of fun. But all TBD.
Weill we cross paths again??

Jess
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