I debated the whole upgraded charging issue for a few years too. I decided to go with the new kit from http://euromotoelectrics.com/

Here's a link with a write-up from my install: http://tinyurl.com/bncde

Nov 4, 2005

I just returned from a test ride with my R80RT after installing an Enduralast 450 Watt system from http://www.euromotoelectrics.com/enduralast.html

The bottom line is that from about 1200-1300 rpm onwards, the system puts out 14.1 to 14.2 volts. At idle, it’s between 12.4 and 12.6 volts. I installed a Datel volt meter to give me a constant read-out during riding. I puttered through town this evening and briefly hopped on the freeway. At all points the voltage was constant between 14 and 14.2. Yesterday, after ensuring I had rigged everything up correctly, I wired up an electric vest and a 70 Watt power inverter to the battery. Flicking the high beam on and off at idle makes the voltage blip, but it returns a steady number after a second or so. Since the inverter and jacket didn’t seem to make a difference in the voltage readout yesterday, I did not wire them up for the test ride.

The kit contains a rotor (solid magnet) and stator, a mounting bracket, a rectifier and a bewildering array of little wires and connectors, of which you end up using a fraction. There’s even a rotor puller bolt included.

The installation is relatively straightforward, but you do need to read the manual carefully. The wiring diagram is a no-brainer. Since I am going to move this system to my G/S in a few months, I did not bother removing any of the original wiring. Since none of it is needed in the meantime, I taped up all the ends and left them where they were.

Installation:
First job is to remove the original stator, rotor, diode board and voltage regulator. I left the voltage regulator in place courtesy of two spun screws.

Mounting the rotor is the same procedure as a regular one. Since we’re dealing with a solid magnet rotor, you want to make sure your wallet and credit cards are not in the vicinity. I wondered about the Hall sensor with this thing nearby, but a timing light check confirmed nothing had changed.

The stator is mounted between two aluminum brackets and screwed into place with 3 screws in the same location as the original. No brushes here … this is a “contact-less” system. As with the original stator, you need to slowly easy it into place and tighten the screws in turn. There is one big wire going up and out of the front cover cavity, that’s it. The only other wire under the front cover after the install is the wire to the timing can (for post-81 machines). Lots of space to mount a small box with tools where the diode board was… hmm.

I ended up mounting the rectifier to a frame tube and ran a car-size ground wire to the battery negative. This was pure laziness on my part, as others have installed this rectifier under the tank after removing the voltage regulator. It fits in that space.

The wiring is simple: The voltage regulator plug ground and blue wire are used (with spade connectors), a wire (with provided 30 amp fuse) to battery positive. Two plugs connect the rectifier to the stator, one wire connects to a switched positive. For the latter you need to bare a (small) wire that gets “hot” when the ignition is on and splice one in. That’s about it.

I spent most of my time trying to figure out where I wanted to mount the rectifier … the RT has less space than other configurations and I could not remove the voltage regulator. In hindsight, I preferred it that way.

During riding I noticed not much difference, except that my stock voltage regulator was reading much higher than before. It’s nice to know that even when you’re loitering through town you’re not draining the battery. I was somewhat concerned that given the strength of the magnet, there would be more drag on the motor and hence I’d have to adjust idle (more fuel consumption…) but that proved to be unfounded. As well, the rotor weighs less than the stock one. I touched the rectifier at the end of the ride to see if it had heated up, but it was cold.

I’m going to eye-ball this setup for a while and decide whether I want to move this over to the G/S. This whole thing started when I contacted John Rayski (Euromoto Electrics) and quizzed him on whether he wanted to have a “guinea pig” for his new system. He was happy to provide me a system, gratis, for which my thanks. Next April, I’m off for a LONG trip across Europe to China and beyond. In order to eliminate the need for carrying an extra rotor and diode board, as well have better charging, I want to take this setup. Since it’s on the RT, I’ll put ample mileage on it between now and then to provide me with enough comfort to put it on the G/S.

Another (small) benefit of this system is that the charging light, although powered as with a stock setup, is not required to function for charging to take place.


------------------
Kevin

http://www.nohorizons.net

[This message has been edited by kberetta (edited 06 March 2006).]

__________________
http://www.nohorizons.net