Hi People, back on the road again thanks to Andy W's great blog on Fuel Pump Bypass and from now on I will never travel without it. Couple of points before the nitty gritty bit, I have had 2 controller failures, 1 pump and 1 pump unit which started disintegrating before my very eyes and this was quickly followed by the unit on the opposite side which receives the unneeded output from the fuel pump also cracking up which seems to have been the result of using ethanol biogas additive type fuel in a European spec fuel system which you have to do in most if not all of the US. Whatever caused it it has cost me lots of coupons and that hurts. The Nitty Gritty then my bike is a 2004 r1200gs and only the gs's are affected by the controller failures due to moisture getting under the silicon filling of the unit due to the crap design and positioning of the control unit, other types of 1200's rest easy. When I stripped mine down as per the blog to make a bypass the short on the circuit board which up to that point appeared to have been fully protected was revealed. The article explains the need for a control which appears to have started with the 1200 series and been previously thought unnecessary. go to

Motorcycle Info Pages - Home and click on Fuel Pump Controller bypass, I would suggest that you read the addition to the article which suggests a variation which may be a better system but as is pointed out takes up more space. So now you know, never leave home without one. from a very wet Victoria Falls where the spray chases away the rain, ride safe.

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Mike
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Mike is riding the twisty road in the sky

Simple fix I will try and get photos of the next 1200 I do this too

The black vented fuel pump housing cover (left top side of fuel tank remove the alloy side cover to acces it ) remove it and cut rubber (inner tube or coke bottle flattened out or a side of a plastic "gallon" oil container) a little bigger than the vents and use a good silicone sealer and "glue" the rubber to the plastic BUT leaving an area open but covered(to prevent water access) at the lower side to allow air circulation

Set that to the side and remove the fuel pump controller N.B. Do not pull the cables remove them before you unscrew the torx and if there is any water down in the well dry it out with an airline

carefully lift up the controller and you will see a couple of cables going to a blue plug
This is the actual pump power connection the bits above are only the power connection and CANBUS wire it's that small alloy thing that tells the pump when to power up

There is a seal around the edge remove it clean it and its contact area for any grit or dirt on the bike and the controller if there is any water down in that part dry it out with an airline too

Now the easy part Get Vaseline or any good qaulity petroleum jelly and cover the blue plug and the seal and the contact faces and refit the controller Again smear vaseline onto the pump connections and level sensor connections

At this stage I usually paint the pump controller with a product called Waxoyl it's a black underbody wax / sealant for cars I guess maybe wet chain grease would do but I've never used it

Refit the connections and the covers and Robert would be your fathers brother, Be careful when fitting the out alloy cover the clearance are very fine so I usually fold the rubber flap/cover down as I set it on, so that here is not a gap for water to get below

I've 2 friends with a 2004 and a 2005 still on the original controllers with just my modification