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Photo by Andy Miller, UK, Taking a rest, Jokulsarlon, Iceland

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Photo by Andy Miller, UK,
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Jokulsarlon, Iceland



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  #1  
Old 11 Feb 2005
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BMW Panniers
In another thread today Cameron said:
'The stock plastic BMW cases will only cause you grief.'

Oh dear. I had grief with the older type BMW panniers, (Krauser?) they both spilled their contents and dropped off the bike but I've not had any bother with the later BMW plastic panniers, the catches/locks seem to be far better. I've done 50,000 mls approx so far. Oh, come to think of it, one of the frames, the tubular type, broke after 10,000mls or so, I brazed it back together and it's been ok since.

I'll be setting off soon on a trip, but, having already spent a fair bit on my '82 R100RS I'm reluctant to go splashing out on panniers. So, apart from keeping the weight down, any suggestions/precautions I can take please?
Thanks
John

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Old 11 Feb 2005
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BMW ships their bikes with lovely tie down straps to keep them attached to the pallet. As a result dealers generally have loads of them in a box in the back somewhere. You can usually get them by asking, or a dollar each or so. You might even get lucky and find they have a few black ones, but generally they're white.

Then wrap one around each pannier and the pannier frame and buckle securely. Bulletproof.

I carry 4 as a matter of course when travelling - best way to tie a bike to a pallet for shipping, or to the deck on a ferry or hold broken parts on, frame together etc. They roll up small and can be stuffed into a small hole on the bike anywhere.

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Old 11 Feb 2005
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Grant is right, strap them on. It means you can still close them when you have no functioning locks left!

A brace around the back of the frames is essential to stop them bending in towards the rear wheel and cracking.

Mine are now bolted to the frames and strapped closed..not very water proof but thy havent fallen off.

alec
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Old 11 Feb 2005
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The standard beemer pannier frames are rather unsuitable for rough roads having only 15mm diameter tubing. Touratech offer more sturdy frames measuring 18mm diameter. Rather pricy but good. I couldn't say whether they fit the RS though. TT offers them for the old GS, but they have frame parts for individual constructions.

Hans
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Old 11 Feb 2005
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Hi Alec (simmo)

Yes, I've thought about a brace, I just popped out to see the bike ('82R10RS) but still can't see an easy way of fitting a brace between the two frames with the mudguard and number plate in between. Removing the back wheel without even more hassle is a factor that concerns me too. (Thinks, did I see a photo of Grant & Susan's set-up showing exactly such a brace?)

Thank you both for your replies, one big strap around each frame and lid sounds good, Grant. I happen to have one (possibly even two) of the straps with a ratchet device- ideal.

John
PS, Alec: Aviation? you fly 'em or fix 'em?
I've a PPL (A) and had a Taylorcraft BC12-D
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Old 11 Feb 2005
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Fancy ratchet device far more than needed, and heavier. Get the BM straps. Factory Genuine part and all!

Yes, mine has an X-brace across the back. ANY brace, even if it just ties the two sides together is a big improvement. Doesn't have to be humongous, just reasonable. A tube the size of the factory rack tubing is fine, bolted on to a tab on the rack.

As noted above, the factory racks DO break, regularly. The TT ones are MUCH better. Keep the weights down, and tie the two sides togewther with a brace, and you're good enough for any reasonable "normal" tour.

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Old 12 Feb 2005
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John...I tell them where to go.... as little as possible of course.

You may find your brace is quite u shaped to go around the mud guard, but you can also use it to drag the bike around when its stuck, so worth while. Mine is bolted to two tabs welded onto the original pannier frames as Grant described.


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Old 13 Feb 2005
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If you can make an x out of the brace, to the tops and bottoms of the rack, it will stop the movement MUCH better - but it's tough with all the lights and fender etc in the way.
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  #9  
Old 13 Feb 2005
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Hi John,

With 50k miles you know what works for you.
Everyones luggage systems seem to evolve when on the road. So if you have problems later you can always change your system.

I did use the original bmw saddle bag racks for my aluminum panniers. I put small gussets on the front lower mounting bar and bottom rear, with a half loop brace around the back and a custom flat rack on top.
They were strong enough to not bend or break during our trip but(hopefully)would bend or break before the bike frame did in the event of an accident.
I can email you pics if you like , functional, but quite frankly is rather ugly...
Cheers, Peter
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Old 7 Mar 2005
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One of my krauser panniers kept falling off on my trip which was not such a problem as it made a loud noise and I could turn around to pick it up. A pannier that falls open, however, is a pain in the arse as I found out in western Kazakstan when I realised only after 10km. I turned around to discover the entire contents spread over 3km and half of it missing courtesy of a passing truck driver. If you keep the latches locked it seems to stop the problem.
sean
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Old 8 Mar 2005
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Don't discount the ratchet straps too soon. They very slightly heavier but are useful on rough ferry crossings where the operator fails to provide adequate restraints. I'd loop the strap through the front wheel & on to the centre stand to stop the bike rolling forwards. The quality of help & straps provided on the ferry varies according to who you're sailing with & the route.

[This message has been edited by Steve Pickford (edited 09 March 2005).]
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